DSettahr
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Pictures Here
Sunday afternoon was pretty wet, dark, and dreary when my friend Anna and I pulled into the parking area at the lower dam on the Bog River to begin our 6 day trip up into Low's Lake to explore the area. There were only 2 other cars in the parking lot, as most of the weekend crowd's had fled early Sunday morning due to the weekend conditions. Earlier in the day, we had driven past many of the trailheads for the High Peaks, and saw hordes of hikers returning to their cars from the woods as early as possible in the downpour.
Fortunately for us, however, the rain let up just as arrived at the put in. For a variety of reasons our destination for our lengthy trip had been chosen for us, and it would turn out to be a lucky turn of events that led us to visit this beautiful area.
Even though the rain had ceased, the clouds were still thick and dark as we loaded up the canoe and launched above the dam. The first section of the Bog River above the lower dam is a new favorite paddling spot of mine. It was fun trying to pear through the fog as we paddled up through the narrow notch past the boulders in the river, trying to see what the river would have in store for us next.
At the second campsite on the river, there was a group of two guys camped. They seemed pretty friendly, and offered us vodka. We politely declined, as we wanted to get a little bit further up the river before camping for the night.
Just past the campsite, we were greeted with the first wildlife sighting for the week. A bald eagle was perched atop a white pine on the north shore of the river. As we paddled by, it spread its wings, and then took flight, heading north over Hitchin's Bog and into the woods. I've never seen a bald eagle in the wild before, so I was pretty excited by it.
We soon reached Hitchin's Pond and began to look for a spot to camp. We selected campsite 6, a nice little spot right on the water just downstream of the dam. We set up camp in the approaching darkness, made dinner, and prepared to turn in for bed in the tent. Just as we were climbing inside, Anna remarked that the stars were out. And certainly they were- in the darkness, the sky had cleared entirely.
The morning dawned bright and sunny. After breaking down camp, it was a quick paddle to the upper dam and the remains of Low's estate. Just after launching the canoe, another (or the same perhaps?) bald eagle swooped down low over the surface of the water, carrying a fish in its talons.
The carry at the upper dam is pretty easy, only a few hundred feet in length. The takeout below the dam on the north side of the river and the take out above the dam on the south side of the river were both very obvious. It looks like some people paddle a little ways up the channel to the base of the dam before taking out, but the shoreline here is pretty impacted and eroded as a result; it's much better to take out at the old docks well below the dam where the grades out of the water are gentler.
The dam itself is quite impressive, but even more interesting were the ruins. Below the dam is the foundation and fireplace for Low's estate, and judging by the size, it was a pretty nice place to live. All that remains now is the fireplace, a stone wall, and a stone platform that looks like it was an upstairs patio with a stone staircase built into the side of the hill. Nearby is a DEC register/kiosk with some pictures of what the area used to look like back in Low's day.
After carrying the canoe and our gear above the dam, we launched and continued upstream. The river immediately above the dam is still quite narrow. We passed multiple campsites and some sandy outcrops. Before long, we reached the first floating bog mat. This mat is wedged in the channel, but it is possible to find passage along the north shore. There is a sandy gap here which might be navigable during high water, but we were forced to get out and walk for about 10 or 20 feet. We also saw a large snapping turtle sunning itself on a log near the floating mat.
Above the mat, the river gradually widens. Unfortunately, the flow is perfectly aligned with the prevailing winds, and those winds were against us. As the channel got wider and wider, those winds got stronger and stronger. We paddled up past the gap in the esker on the south side. The channel hear splits, and you have an option of continuing along the north shore, or paddling through the gap in the esker and continuing along the southern channel. Both will take you to Low's Lake proper, and we decided to paddle upstream through the north channel and paddle the south side of the esker on the return trip. Before long were struggling upwind past the beach for the scout camp on the north shore, and soon broke out into Low's Lake proper. The winds here were intense, and we saw whitecaps out on the main lake. We stuck to the north shore, and were able to slip around to the north of a chain of small islands that helped to break the wind.
It was already late afternoon by the time we reached campsite 20, and we decided to make it our home for the second night. This was a nice site surrounded by a fern glade with a pretty beach along the shore. The site itself was pretty impacted, but not an un-enjoyable place to spend the night. The clouds that evening presented us with a spectacular display of blues, reds, yellows, and oranges as the sun set behind us.
Tuesday morning had us up and continuing our journey west along the north shore. We paddled up into a couple of bays to explore for a bit. There are 2 short carries linking 3 of these bays; these carries allow parties heading west to stay out of the prevailing winds working against them for the most part. Those trying to reach the carry to Big Deer Pond and the Oswegatchie River would be well advised to make use of these carries. We, however, had ample time and wished to explore the full shoreline, and so we continued to work our way upwind on the main lake.
After lunch, we made our way past the last of the campsites on the main north shore of Low's Lake, and headed north into Grass Pond. At the head of the main channel into Grass Pond is the private inholding on Low's Lake, a small rustic cabin right on the shore. Once into Grass Pond, the wind died down significantly. We crossed the pond to the north shore to check out the campsites, and selected campsite 33 as our destination for the evening. It is located in a little rocky bay on the northwest shore of the pond, right next to a bubbling little brook that cascades down into the lake.
Campsite 33 turned out to be located in an interesting area. An old logging road runs right past the backside of the site, and I found an old pen collapsed in the woods. My best guess is that someone constructed the pen years ago to house hunting dogs during the open season in the fall. The campsite looked like it hadn't received much recent use.
Across Grass Pond from the campsite, we had a nice view of the cliffs on the western edge of Grass Pond Mountain. Where we were situated the sun set early, but it's light was still visible on the cliffs and the mountain well into the evening.
Just as darkness was falling and we got the fire going, we started to hear a loud splashing in the stream. We grabbed our headlamps, and walked over to check it out. Just before the last cascade into the lake, the stream flows through a very deep pool. In that pool was a large beaver, swimming around and occasionally coming up for air. It was pretty interesting to watch, and I've never seen a beaver that close before. We continued to observe him for a few minutes, and then returned to the fire to let him continue with whatever he had planned for the evening.
Wednesday morning dawned sunny, but as we packed up camp, the clouds started to roll in. We launched the canoe and continued around the north and east shores of Grass Pond. The carry north to Cranberry Lake was well marked and not hard to find. I had hoped to have enough time to explore this trail, hopefully all the way to Chairrock Flow, but unfortunately time was against us as we wanted to continue down to the south shore of Low's Lake.
After stopping to check out some of other sites on Grass Pond, we paddled back down through the channel and out into the main lake. We continued west along the north shore. The paddling map shows a large island on the west shore of Low's Lake, with passage possible between the island in the mainland. We figured that our best bet would be to take this passage on our way to check out the carry to Big Deer Pond. As we approached the narrow gap, the vegetation kept playing tricks with us, and we couldn't decide if passage would be possible or not... we kept thinking we saw a way through, then decided it was blocked, then thought we saw a way through again... It was only when we had actually paddled up the narrow gap that we were able to determine the situation. The island is actually connected to the shore via a small sandy spit. This spit, however is easily carried over... but what lies beyond is not worth paddling through. Just south of the island was an immense graveyard of submerged stumps and trunks. Trying to find a way through this maze, and pushing our way over the multiple underwater logs that were difficult to see and blocked out way, was time consuming and tiring. In retrospect, it would've been easier (and faster) to stay east of the island.
Continued....
Sunday afternoon was pretty wet, dark, and dreary when my friend Anna and I pulled into the parking area at the lower dam on the Bog River to begin our 6 day trip up into Low's Lake to explore the area. There were only 2 other cars in the parking lot, as most of the weekend crowd's had fled early Sunday morning due to the weekend conditions. Earlier in the day, we had driven past many of the trailheads for the High Peaks, and saw hordes of hikers returning to their cars from the woods as early as possible in the downpour.
Fortunately for us, however, the rain let up just as arrived at the put in. For a variety of reasons our destination for our lengthy trip had been chosen for us, and it would turn out to be a lucky turn of events that led us to visit this beautiful area.
Even though the rain had ceased, the clouds were still thick and dark as we loaded up the canoe and launched above the dam. The first section of the Bog River above the lower dam is a new favorite paddling spot of mine. It was fun trying to pear through the fog as we paddled up through the narrow notch past the boulders in the river, trying to see what the river would have in store for us next.
At the second campsite on the river, there was a group of two guys camped. They seemed pretty friendly, and offered us vodka. We politely declined, as we wanted to get a little bit further up the river before camping for the night.
Just past the campsite, we were greeted with the first wildlife sighting for the week. A bald eagle was perched atop a white pine on the north shore of the river. As we paddled by, it spread its wings, and then took flight, heading north over Hitchin's Bog and into the woods. I've never seen a bald eagle in the wild before, so I was pretty excited by it.
We soon reached Hitchin's Pond and began to look for a spot to camp. We selected campsite 6, a nice little spot right on the water just downstream of the dam. We set up camp in the approaching darkness, made dinner, and prepared to turn in for bed in the tent. Just as we were climbing inside, Anna remarked that the stars were out. And certainly they were- in the darkness, the sky had cleared entirely.
The morning dawned bright and sunny. After breaking down camp, it was a quick paddle to the upper dam and the remains of Low's estate. Just after launching the canoe, another (or the same perhaps?) bald eagle swooped down low over the surface of the water, carrying a fish in its talons.
The carry at the upper dam is pretty easy, only a few hundred feet in length. The takeout below the dam on the north side of the river and the take out above the dam on the south side of the river were both very obvious. It looks like some people paddle a little ways up the channel to the base of the dam before taking out, but the shoreline here is pretty impacted and eroded as a result; it's much better to take out at the old docks well below the dam where the grades out of the water are gentler.
The dam itself is quite impressive, but even more interesting were the ruins. Below the dam is the foundation and fireplace for Low's estate, and judging by the size, it was a pretty nice place to live. All that remains now is the fireplace, a stone wall, and a stone platform that looks like it was an upstairs patio with a stone staircase built into the side of the hill. Nearby is a DEC register/kiosk with some pictures of what the area used to look like back in Low's day.
After carrying the canoe and our gear above the dam, we launched and continued upstream. The river immediately above the dam is still quite narrow. We passed multiple campsites and some sandy outcrops. Before long, we reached the first floating bog mat. This mat is wedged in the channel, but it is possible to find passage along the north shore. There is a sandy gap here which might be navigable during high water, but we were forced to get out and walk for about 10 or 20 feet. We also saw a large snapping turtle sunning itself on a log near the floating mat.
Above the mat, the river gradually widens. Unfortunately, the flow is perfectly aligned with the prevailing winds, and those winds were against us. As the channel got wider and wider, those winds got stronger and stronger. We paddled up past the gap in the esker on the south side. The channel hear splits, and you have an option of continuing along the north shore, or paddling through the gap in the esker and continuing along the southern channel. Both will take you to Low's Lake proper, and we decided to paddle upstream through the north channel and paddle the south side of the esker on the return trip. Before long were struggling upwind past the beach for the scout camp on the north shore, and soon broke out into Low's Lake proper. The winds here were intense, and we saw whitecaps out on the main lake. We stuck to the north shore, and were able to slip around to the north of a chain of small islands that helped to break the wind.
It was already late afternoon by the time we reached campsite 20, and we decided to make it our home for the second night. This was a nice site surrounded by a fern glade with a pretty beach along the shore. The site itself was pretty impacted, but not an un-enjoyable place to spend the night. The clouds that evening presented us with a spectacular display of blues, reds, yellows, and oranges as the sun set behind us.
Tuesday morning had us up and continuing our journey west along the north shore. We paddled up into a couple of bays to explore for a bit. There are 2 short carries linking 3 of these bays; these carries allow parties heading west to stay out of the prevailing winds working against them for the most part. Those trying to reach the carry to Big Deer Pond and the Oswegatchie River would be well advised to make use of these carries. We, however, had ample time and wished to explore the full shoreline, and so we continued to work our way upwind on the main lake.
After lunch, we made our way past the last of the campsites on the main north shore of Low's Lake, and headed north into Grass Pond. At the head of the main channel into Grass Pond is the private inholding on Low's Lake, a small rustic cabin right on the shore. Once into Grass Pond, the wind died down significantly. We crossed the pond to the north shore to check out the campsites, and selected campsite 33 as our destination for the evening. It is located in a little rocky bay on the northwest shore of the pond, right next to a bubbling little brook that cascades down into the lake.
Campsite 33 turned out to be located in an interesting area. An old logging road runs right past the backside of the site, and I found an old pen collapsed in the woods. My best guess is that someone constructed the pen years ago to house hunting dogs during the open season in the fall. The campsite looked like it hadn't received much recent use.
Across Grass Pond from the campsite, we had a nice view of the cliffs on the western edge of Grass Pond Mountain. Where we were situated the sun set early, but it's light was still visible on the cliffs and the mountain well into the evening.
Just as darkness was falling and we got the fire going, we started to hear a loud splashing in the stream. We grabbed our headlamps, and walked over to check it out. Just before the last cascade into the lake, the stream flows through a very deep pool. In that pool was a large beaver, swimming around and occasionally coming up for air. It was pretty interesting to watch, and I've never seen a beaver that close before. We continued to observe him for a few minutes, and then returned to the fire to let him continue with whatever he had planned for the evening.
Wednesday morning dawned sunny, but as we packed up camp, the clouds started to roll in. We launched the canoe and continued around the north and east shores of Grass Pond. The carry north to Cranberry Lake was well marked and not hard to find. I had hoped to have enough time to explore this trail, hopefully all the way to Chairrock Flow, but unfortunately time was against us as we wanted to continue down to the south shore of Low's Lake.
After stopping to check out some of other sites on Grass Pond, we paddled back down through the channel and out into the main lake. We continued west along the north shore. The paddling map shows a large island on the west shore of Low's Lake, with passage possible between the island in the mainland. We figured that our best bet would be to take this passage on our way to check out the carry to Big Deer Pond. As we approached the narrow gap, the vegetation kept playing tricks with us, and we couldn't decide if passage would be possible or not... we kept thinking we saw a way through, then decided it was blocked, then thought we saw a way through again... It was only when we had actually paddled up the narrow gap that we were able to determine the situation. The island is actually connected to the shore via a small sandy spit. This spit, however is easily carried over... but what lies beyond is not worth paddling through. Just south of the island was an immense graveyard of submerged stumps and trunks. Trying to find a way through this maze, and pushing our way over the multiple underwater logs that were difficult to see and blocked out way, was time consuming and tiring. In retrospect, it would've been easier (and faster) to stay east of the island.
Continued....
As we paddled up and down through the channels between the islands, we met the first group headed in for the weekend, two gentlemen from Rochester setting up camp at site 14.
