Aborted N->S Presidential Hut-hop, July 26-28th

[McRat]

Hmmmm... I just got back from a weeks vacation, and had set aside Tuesday through Thursday to get in some hiking and peakbagging.

The plan was simple - Up to Madison Hut, and bag 'em all the way to Crawford Notch, spending a night at Madison/Lake of the Clouds huts.

Things went wrong. But, like every peak, it was still an adventure.

TUESDAY, July 26th

In an effort to save on gas, we brought only one car up. This will not be happening again for reasons that should be clear later. Part of which was the reaction of she-who-must-be-obeyed in discovering that all trailheads do not begin in Franconia Notch. With each mile past there, the good cheer and support of the hike seemed to diminish. "I had no idea that the WMNF was so BIG." By the time we had spotted Den's (McCoon) Jeep by Crawford Notch she needed to restate this matter.

You would think the giant maps hanging on my wall and all my trail plans and ranting about the hills would have made this one obvious... but hey... she otherwise puts up with my obsession pretty well.

We made it to the Appalachia trailhead around 11:00am, said goodbye, and McCoon and I were on our way up the pleasant riverside path with plans for three uninterrupted days of hiking, hanging out, and hut living. We were, for lack of a better term - STOKED.

Along the Valley Way, we realized why so many people buy the RMC maps - There is a very elaborate and well maintained network of trails that are not even on the smaller scale AMC maps.

We took our time in the heat and haze and made sure to drink our water, although by the time we made it to the tentsite along the Valley Way, the grade had increased and we began to resent the weight of the 4 liters of water. The logic of transferring the center of gravity inward for future expulsion and weight reduction became a topic of conversation and we remained well hydrated and lighter as the day progressed.

We finally reached the hut around 3:15 and went in to claim a bunk and some lemonade. This would be my first stay at a hut, and though I balked at the price initially - we basked in the convenience and friendly company of other hikers and croo. Even though the bugs had travelled the whole way and were mostly polite enough to swarm rather than bite - they did not book reservations and were not allowed to stay in the hut.

We wandered off to Star Lake and looked out at Adams, Jefferson and Washington, the next days objectives. The weather reports had indicated a possibility of thunderstorms, though we remained optimistic, if not downright drunk on the scenery.

We watched the cars crawl up the auto road, the smoke of the cog, the little black birds with the B&W striped tails (anyone have a guess at what these finch-sized birds are), the little alpine flowers, the strangely incongruous giant quartz protrusion located between Madison and the Star Lake (I'm sure this thing must have been given a name by someone), the rocks, lichens and krumholz - this was truly new territory for us and we were loving it.

I finished a pipe and headed back to the hut in time for dinner. Fresh baked bread, a big bowl of soup, some bean salad and lasagna. With no prep time for us. This hut scene really appeals to my sense of laziness and hedonism - and I admit mixed feelings on that. The food was pretty good, and all the more impressive after seeing the ingredients being carried up on packboard earlier.

The stately Garbriella, the hut naturalist, announced the night's activities and the weather report. There were some groans as the likelyhood of stormy weather had been increased from earlier. No groans from us. Dinner was over, we had chocolate covered gingerbread in hand, the sun was setting, Madison was calling and we had a pint or Irish to celebrate Day One. We hit the Osgood trail light and fast.

While the haze cut into the sunset a bit, here two desk jockeys celebrated their first mile-high peak in 25mph winds, feeling that small yet rich taste of victory which I suspect drives a lot of us on. It was truly awesome in the original sense of the word.

As we headed back to the hut, we discussed the weather and hoped the ice-cream sandwich runs had earned us enough karma for the weather to pass.

After lights-out at the hut, I still had the image of the Madison gulf in my head. I went to sleep with the most idiotic pondering I've had in a while - "Boy... those topo map contours don't do the ridges justice." It's ok to laugh at me for that. I did just before I drifted off to sleep.

 

[McRat]

WEDNESDAY, July 27th

My next stupid thought - "What the..." as I woke to the sounds of an a capella rendition of 'Puff the Magic Dragon'. I looked out the window up at the ridge. "What the..." again. The ridge had been erased in the night.

Over a tasty breakfast, the latest weather conditions were in. 30mph winds gusting to 45, visibility 20 feet. Thunderstorms LIKELY. We decided we would bag Adams and figure out what to do once we got there.

The rocky paths are challenging enough without being wet, and we slowly moved along the Airline trail searching through the fog for the next blaze or cairn. The winds shifted and beat us from almost all directions. I went to stand on a nice flat looking rock at the moment of a wind gust and went sliding. I caught myself and escaped with only a minor scratch on my right palm. By the time we reached the summit, there was nothing but fog, rock, and a metal spike to mark our arrival.

The wind picked up and we were pelted by ice crystals. In JULY. At this time both McCoon and I agreed that weather was bad enough now - and EXPECTED to get worse. It was time for PLAN B. We Fool Scouts may be foolish, but we're not completely stupid. Mother Nature was holding the trump cards and she meant to play 'em.

We headed back to the hut and decided that Jefferson and Washington were out for the day. The plan was to hike down to the lot and bag a shuttle or hope for some trail magic to get us to the Ammonoosuc Ravine trailhead. A few miles out, a bit of a ride, up 2500 feet to dinner at Lakes. How about that. Less elevation gain than our original Day Two plan.

We got about a half mile down the Valley Way as the sun started to cut through the haze. By the time we finished a mile, visibility was better than the day before and the heat was back. I pointed this out to McCoon a few times. "Hmmm... Figures doesn't it. Clears right up as soon as we go down. So ya think we should head back up? Huh? Only be an extra mile."

"We made the right decision at the time." he said, "Other than that, I don't wan't to talk about it anymore."

He continued on down the wet rocks another 15 minutes or so with me scurrying along just to keep up - until I heard a large POP noise from ahead. McCoon let out a yelp and I went up the 15 paces or so to check up on him. He said it was his ankle, and I asked if he could put any pressure on it or walk. He said he could walk and we went up about ten yards to a good 'sitting rock' to rest and check up on things. He was fighting a good amount of pain but said he was ok, and took off his pack and sat there breathing heavily. He then said something I couldn't hear well.

When I asked him what it was, he answered "mrrrbbbbahhh" as his eyes rolled back and he began to fall over backwards. I saw him start to tumble and caught his head before it hit the other side of the rock, but then his body started sliding down over the other side.

Den is a big guy and it took effort I wasn't even sure I was capable of to hold him from sliding further down a 6-8 foot drop to the side. All internal alarms were going off. While bracing the body his neck had pressed against a tree and was now turned at what looked like a right angle. I began trying to fix this position, and check for breathing/pulse when he opens his eyes. "What are you doing up there?"

He starts to sit up, and I get him back up on the trail and in a better position should he pass out again. He says "I was just sitting there, started to have a dream I can't remember, and the next thing I know I'm trying to get up, but can't move my arm. Then I look at it and see you pulling on it."

I've always said I'm pretty good in a crisis - and I am. For about 15 terrifying seconds I was able to keep panic in check and do what needed to be done. Now that was over and my knees began shaking so uncontrollably that I needed to sit down myself. I guess I'm not all that good when not in a state of crisis.

Though it took 3 hours, McCoon walked out the last two miles with a lump on his ankle the size of an orange. The rest of the trip was scrapped and we waited to take the AMC Shuttle back to Crawford Notch.

Almost as soon as we got in the shuttle, the clouds gathered, and the radio emergency weather broadcast announced several severe thunderstorms, and soon the skies opened up. For all the trouble Plan B had cost us, suddenly we could see what Mother Nature had lined up for Plan A. The rain came down so hard that the shuttle driver could scarcely see, and had to put on the hazard lights and pull over.

I hope everyone who went ahead came out fine, but I couldn't resist a smug satisfaction at the prudence of turning back, imaginging myself on the side of Jefferson or the Sphinx Col for this storm.

We made it back to Crawford Notch and Den drove us back to Alton Bay. I ask him if he needs a ride, and he says he should be OK.

I spend the evening kind of shell shocked trying to balance out the beauty in this trip with the terror.

 

[McRat]

THURSDAY, July 28th

I woke to what would probably be one of the nicest hiking days imaginable, hours from the trail, watching light cirrus clouds and clear blue skies. I really wanted to be angry about how things turned out, but I was glad everyone was fine and drove out to find cell signal to check in on McCoon.

As soon as I found signal I had a voicemail. The X-Rays were in. I'm bitching about nice weather and he's fractured his ankle and walked out 2 miles before driving 180 home. He seemed in pretty good spirits, all things considered.

"Ha! The Dr. couldn't believe I walked in, she said the last few people she saw with this were looking to get more pain meds or go on workmans comp. I'll be at work tomorrow." The old bravado was back, with peaks 3 and 4 on his NH48 under his belt, a plastic cast for his ankle, and a hell of a story to tell.

When I got back to home I didn't get to put all six green pins in the map. But pins number 19 and 20 will be unforgettable - and Washington will taste that much sweeter when we return and finally put it under our boot heels. Better than us have been turned back more.


THINGS LEARNED
1) The buddy system works - because things can and do go wrong. Alone, it is possible that Den could have hit his head, and slid off the trail and out of sight of passing hikers or rescue workers.

2) Injured people can faint from the pain. Make sure they sit in a place where they can't roll away from you.

3) Damn the gas cost - having one vehicle 18 miles away just isn't flexible if you need to turn back.

4) Never second guess a wise decision. Once turnback time comes, accept it and try to enjoy the walk out even if the skies clear.

 

[king tut]

wow, quite a story. Too bad about the ankle. i was up on top of madison and adams earlier tuesday morning, but had headed down before noon. It was real hot during my hike, and i had about 6 liters of water in my pack, drank it all, and it still wasn't enough. Those t-storms were pretty bad on wednesday too, good thing you were off the ridgeline.

 

[NewHampshire]

WOW! Talk about an adventure!
Brian

 

[carole]

Fabulous storytelling, McRat. I'm glad clear heads prevailed and the adventure can continue. If it was easy everyone would be doing it. I look forward to hearing your continuing saga! Congratuations.

 

[alpinista]

Fascinating story to read. I'm glad you didn't end up in the accident reports of Appalachia!

 

[sapblatt]

glad you are OK

Russ -
Glad to hear you and Dennis are OK...so many times it does not go as we have planned. Great report!

 

[Sherpa John]

Uhhh.. way to go Beavis! hehe hehe hehe

Glad Dennis will be ok.. hopefully when it heals.. he'll make it back out on those trails.

Hey Russ... what about those ice Cream Sandwiches?!

 

[Gris]

Interesting read, reminds me of the story of when another VFTT-r (SherpaK) fractured his foot in a remote area of Baxter State Park. He also apparently hiked miles on it. Amazing what one can do when one has to (but then i have also seen people with no real problem just sit down). Perhaps another lesson would be to always carry an ankle wrap and ibuprofen, just in case... I do. I am still waiting for the day when I get a bad ankle sprain or other such injury, lotsa close calls but nothing disabling yet. Was hiking alone with a heavy pack couple of weeks ago and pushed the top of my right foot all the way up against my shin after sliding down betweenst some large boulders. Achilles is still sore but thankfully did not snap. Good luck to your friend!

 

[Brownie]

Twisted in Prezzies

Glad to hear Dennis will be alright.
The good thing about staying in Huts in the Prezzies is, you can go for help to the Crew and they are more than willing to get you down safely.
My hats off to those folks who are keen to go out and help lost or overdue travelers get to their Hut destinations when traveling the Gulfside traverse in bad weather. I have heard and seen dozens of stories.

You made the right decision to abort the trek, they don't call that region just beyond, Thunderstorm Junction, for nothing!
I have been through some extreme weather there before, not fun.
I have turned back due to weather as well, in and out of sun/clouds and made the same second guessing you did.
Never under estimate the power of the "Presidential Force"!

BTW: What type of boots/shoes was he wearing?

Jeff

 

[arghman]

good report!!! Hope your future above-treeline hikes work out better.
If I ever go back to the northern Presis, I don't think it will be alone; I've pushed my solo luck a bit much, especially this year. your report's a good motivation for hiking w/ a friend.

 

[Dugan]

Much sympathy for McCoon, hope you heal quickly. Two words: physical therapy. As soon as much and as hard as they'll let you.

I fractured an ankle & ruptured an ankle ligament in March 2004. The fracture healed pretty quickly. The ligament wasn't fully back 'til a little over a year later. My three mile hobble out was ably assisted by Dugan four-legs whose withers are luckily high enough (or maybe I'm short enough) to be good for leaning on.

Shoes at the time were a pair of mid-weight Asolo boots, well-fitted, stiff, supportive, over the ankle, laced snugly.

 

[twhynot]

untitled

great report. I hope Dennis gets back on the trail soon. Good decision making. Too bad about the ice cream sandwich runs. I had 'em once and they're horrible.

 

[McCoon]

McCoons, View from the top.

I appreciate all the good wishes from everyone and I'll fill in the details of what happened. A little ways after the tent sites I caught my right foot sort of between two rocks. One over hanging the other and my foot slipped with all my weight. Wedge itself under the over hang and gravity with a little momentum did the rest. It’s interesting how a few seconds can seem so long when the unexpected happens. The mind races and the body struggles to catch up. Of course you hope the body never catches up, because it means a whole lot of pain usually.

McRat suggested we move to a better place and take a sit. Sounded good to me. Sat down and about that time I'd say the shock wore off. With my mind still racing and my heart pounding. I started taking my pack off and concentrated on breathing to keep focused on something other than what happened. Guess my body had other plans. Next thing I knew I was looking up at Mcrat trying to figure out why I was upside down. My first instinct was to get up, but couldn't move my left arm to grab the rock. Then I realized McRat was holding it to keep me from sliding down. Russ let go and I pulled myself up. Funny thing I felt really good now and wanted to get moving. With my poles helping me I didn't want to stop and give my ankle time to stiffen up.

Someone asked what boots I was wearing. Merrell Reactor Waterproof Mid Hiking Boots. They were only two weeks old, but I had broken them in hiking Zealand with no problems. Would I have hurt myself with a pair of Limmers? Yes, I was moving pretty quick and it was a bad place to step. I will say these Merrell's are the driest boots I ever owned.

 

[carole]

Welcome aboard, McCoon. My your recovery be speedy.