An unusual approach to Washington in the Winter

[percious]

This is a delayed posting, but none-the-less worth reading.

4:30AM Wednesday, December 27th. I finally get out of bed after laying there waiting for the alarm to ring. Today is go-day. A quick jaunt over to the airport, and my wife is on her way with Colden down south for the week. I arrive back at my house to see that team member #2 has arrived, and we await our third member while we pack up the car and have a cup of chai.

Our companion is delayed, so we look at the avalanche conditions and weather forecast and analyzed our options. "Looks like Oake's gulf is a no go." I state as we look over our map. The avalanche printout reads "Avalanche danger is HIGH" (HIGH *was* in bold.) "Natural avalanches are likely and human triggered avalanches are very likely." Rain had fallen and frozen, forming a crust on the snow. Then a few inches of light fluffy snow had fallen on top of that, making for some dangerous conditions.

Looking at the map, the Isolation trail to Davis path actually looks like a shorter approach, but one with considerably more above-treeline effort. Also, we would be hiking into a headwind. But, the route was relatively safe from an avalanche standpoint, as it followed the ridgeline for its extent. We could also start from the Dry River Trail, which was my desire.

Our companion arrived, and we all headed north on 91, stopping at our usual rest in Vermont, exit 5. This is an excellent place to stop, with fresh baked goods (especially blueberry muffins). Onward, we reached white river junction, exited the highway at exit 17 and managed to get totally off course, reaching Littleton no later than 9:30 am. We still had to get to north conway, and after getting back on track, we found ourselves in the midst of mountains on the Kankamangus. This was quite a tour!

At about 10:30am we finally reached north conway where one of our team was renting boots. We did not leave until 11:30 and arrived at our final destination at 12:30 no worse for wear. The dry river trail had tracks, at least.

(cont.)

 

[percious]

We left the trailhead at about 12:45 sharp, and I figured we had about 3 1/2 hours of daylight before we lost all daylight. It was my intention to reach 4300 feet that night, which would put us a reasonable distance from the summit.

We reached the difficult bridge crossing with relative ease. The bridge still carried its sign, and I still carried my warning to the others about it's condition on the other side. I guided across the stream, following an incling of our summer path. There was only one spot you were required to place your foot in harm's way. We all made it across.

The long trudge begins at this point, as the Dry River trail follows the meandering brook back and forth, up and down until you reach the junction. We lost the trail in one section, and spent considerable effort and time getting back on track. It was getting dark.

Darkness fell on the final climb-out to the junction. We donned our headlamps, as my companions expressed their concerns about reaching 4300 feet. We comprimised on reaching the Isolation trail cutoff, at 2500 feet. We crossed a small stream at an "unusual water crossing" as I had called it. and then got lost again for a bit while we determined the actual location of the Isolation trail. Soon we were on it, and I remembered a flat open area near the beginning of the trail where someone had set up camp in the summer. We shot for that.

Mark and Joao set up the complicated tent while I got the stoves churning away melting snow. We all shared the first batch of corn chowder, which was not only burnt, but also very salty. Still, it filled the belly, and after a second batch, and 30+oz of fuel burned we all settled down in our bags for a bit of a sleep. We had only 12 oz of fuel remaining.

(cont.)

 

[percious]

The next morning, with the summit still on our minds, we ate our power bars, and packed up. I was eager to get going because I knew what we had in store. It was going to be a long hike to the top, but I was sure we could make it.

At this point the trail was unbroken, and I lead the way as we picked through the various blowdowns. The trail had come into a state of disrepair since my trip in the summer. Many new blowdowns obfucated our way, and unplanned bushwhacks were the result. Getting back on track was difficult, but with coordinates provided by a GPS, and a little bit of luck we mad our way, and found the difficult to find left turn where the trail leaves the stream bed. We had gone a little over 3/4 of a mile, and it was nearly 9:30, 2 hours after we had left camp. We had reached an elevation of 3000 feet.

It was at this point Joao started to ask me if I really intended to reach the summit. I said it wasn't up to me, that I would go as far as anyone else wanted to go. It seemed to me that there were more options if we could just get to the Davis path junction. I thought that if we could just get above treeline, we might eek this one out.

Two hours later, we reached another impass. I asked the guys if we should discuss our options, as the trail deteriorated into another set of bent over-pines, covered in beautifully slushy snow. Did I mention it was raining? Mark and Joao wanted to turn back, and I respectfully agreed, after taking a picture of our turn around point. I had been breaking trail for 4 hours, with 1200 feet of elevation gain, and 1.5 miles to show for it.

We were looking at another 1.5 miles of misery to reach the junction at 4300 feet, and still 2000 feet left to climb. We were all soaking wet from our pine-tree battles and somewhere along the line I had scratched my right eye. We also knew that we were low on fuel, and by assocaition water. We were hiking ourselves into a trap, which was obvious to Mark and Joao. Oddly, something in me still wanted to continue. I just cannot understand it. I turned around because Mark and Joao wanted to, and because when you looked at the logistics it was the most prudent thing to do.

What must those people on mountains like K2 or Everest feel when they are up at altitude? Is the feeling of summit fever so overwhelming that they will put themselves in harms way, knowing well their margins for error are miniscule? Is this what I was feeling on Mount Washington? I felt this overwhelming drive to get to the top, where I felt I was "allowed" to turn around, despite knowing it was futile, and would put us in grave danger. I can only imagine how this is amplified by the conditions of a major expedition in a foreign land, with little hope for return. Yet, the mountains are not going anywhere.

(cont.)

 

[percious]

4 hours up, 1 1/2 hours to return to camp. We all breathed a sigh of relief as we knew the hard part was over, the bushwacks were finished, and the blowdown was manageable. The last major hurdle was the river crossing.

To say the hike out on the Dry River Trail is a trudge is not to do it justice. Our spirits however, were lifted by the fact that our trip had gone from a dangerous adventure to a more mild one. Joao and Mark discussed the plans for the next day, how we could stay the night in a hotel and then go for Washington the next day via the Lion's Head trail. They were very upbeat about continuing.

I felt beaten down by Washington. All the months of planning, training, dehydrating, training, reading, training, studying, training, worrying, and training amounted to 3500ft. All I wanted was to enjoy some pub food, and drink some pub beer, and drive home to Connecticut and lick my wounds. I did not want to spend another day hiking in the rain, feeling wet and miserable, stopping to check GPS coordinates and have raisin fingers.

So that's what we did. It is very likely we could have made a great Friday, but I made a prudent choice, and it was a good one. On Friday I drove down to Maryland to catch up with my wife and visit her family, and on Saturday I spent 3 hours at a walk-in clinic so a doctor could spend 15 minutes shining a light that was WAY to bright in my eye, only to give me some eye drops that I knew I needed before I even went in there. (he had to make sure there were no foreign bodies). Given the difficulty of the drive on Friday, I would have spent the day in the hotel/car while Mark/Joao summited something, which would have been ok with me, but I was glad they wanted to go home in the first place.

It seems like even after 3 years of winter backpacking, every trip is a learning experience. My body gets stronger, and I learn more from other people's writings, but nothing beats getting out there and doing it. So what do I take away from this experience, (so maybe you who have read thus far can take something from your 20 mins of reading (thanks!)).

A) You are going to need a whole lot more fuel if you are going to melt snow. 12 oz per person per day if only melting snow.

B) Trails not-oft travelled may best be left for late winter when there is enough snow to travel OVER the trees. And if you MUST take the connector trails, leave extra extra time to negotiate them.

C) Your friends are a good indicator of YOUR condition.

D) Good company and time in the wilderness ALWAYS makes the summit optional.

-percious

(pictures tonight)

 

[giggy]

In the back of my mind I was wondering how this pretty ambitious winter trip panned out - from what I just read - it was very successful.

your alive, made good group descions, learned a few things and knew when "enough was enough"

don't sell yourself short - the 3500 ft you guys did - is much much tougher than summiting via a packed out route.

plus in winter rain!! man that had to been tough mentally as well.

good job!!

 

[DougPaul]

A) You are going to need a whole lot more fuel if you are going to melt snow. 12 oz per person per day if only melting snow.

Your fuel usage was way high. MSR recommends 4 oz/person/day for just cooking or 8 oz/person/day for melting snow and cooking. (11 oz/person/day in Antarctica. ) Use a wind screen, protect from the wind, use a pot cover, etc. Cook quickly--minimize simmering. Also get water from an open stream if possible.

Dry River is one of the harder/longer ways of climbing Washington in winter. Try Boot Spur, Lions Head, Ammo Ravine, or Jewell.

Doug

 

[percious]

Your fuel usage was way high. MSR recommends 4 oz/person/day for just cooking or 8 oz/person/day for melting snow and cooking. (11 oz/person/day in Antarctica. ) Use a wind screen, protect from the wind, use a pot cover, etc. Also get water from an open stream if possible.

One of the meals I chose to make was fuel intensive... Better known next time. We also spilled at least 2 liters of water in the process. We did use a wind screen.

Dry River is one of the harder/longer ways of climbing Washington in winter. Try Boot Spur, Lions Head, Ammo Ravine, or Jewell.

This is why the route was chosen. Originally we were going to use Oakes gulf, but avalanche danger dictated otherwise. We didn't see a soul the entire trip. Mission accomplished.

-percious

 

[Mike P.]

Sounds like you had a good trip & that backpacking & spending time with good friends was more important than peakbagging. (Did I just state the obvious)

Intended route IMO was a big problem to peakbagging but offered more to winter backpacking & not seeing anyone, an objective in it's own right.

While in summer combining both goals is a worthy thing to plan, it might be better to separate solitude & untraveled trails from peakbagging in the winter, at least on the higher peaks.

 

[DougPaul]

Dry River is one of the harder/longer ways of climbing Washington in winter. Try Boot Spur, Lions Head, Ammo Ravine, or Jewell.

This is why the route was chosen. Originally we were going to use Oakes gulf, but avalanche danger dictated otherwise. We didn't see a soul the entire trip. Mission accomplished.

OK.

We did a 2 1/2 day winter hike up Dry River several years ago, hoping to reach Isolation. Made it part way up to the ridge and turned back. Some spots were slow going... We didn't even see anyone else's footprints. Also had a nice time.

More recently, made it up to the ridge from the other side--Davis Path was a challange to follow.

Doug

 

[percious]

Intended route IMO was a big problem to peakbagging but offered more to winter backpacking & not seeing anyone, an objective in it's own right.

While in summer combining both goals is a worthy thing to plan, it might be better to separate solitude & untraveled trails from peakbagging in the winter, at least on the higher peaks.

Well put, I guess im just a glutton for punishment, and like to do things the hard way. I am probably 1 of a few people who have climbed Cliff from Flowed lands (in the summer), and threw in Redfield to boot. I personally like the longer approaches, and I would really like to try Oake's gulf, if I could find the right people to join me. I very much enjoy the Dry River approach, as long and drawn out as it seems. I think I will have a hard time choosing peakbagging over solitude, Most hikes I choose require both.

As for Isolation/Davis, I think it is doable in better weather conditions, with more people to share the load of breaking trail. A map-ready GPS wouldn't hurt, or just a couple more people with good directional skills, IE bushwhacking experience.

Possible itinerary:

Thursday night: Arrive late, hike 1.5 miles to bridge crossing, set camp and wait for crossing until morning.

Friday: Cross the junction to stay at shelter #3 if doing Oake's gulf, or continue as far as possible up the isolation trail. There are some flat spots along the way to camp up there.

Saturday: Summit Mt. Washington via oaks gulf or Davis path. At this point less than 1000 feet below treeline should exist. That seems to be the crux of the climb. After summiting find a camping spot before or after Mt. Monroe.

Sunday: Bail out down edmond's path, or the ammonusic, or head over the range and hike down the crawford path to finish up. Hike or hitch back to the car.

Anybody interested in this hair-brained scheme with avalanche experience and a good sense of direction is encouraged to PM me. I think I want to try again in March. Truely gluttonous.

-percious

 

[HAMTERO]

Know when to fold em

Smart move to turn back. It is pretty cold walking into a headwind above treeline when you are wet like that. Scratched eye no good either. Suebiscuit and I did Isolation via Glen Boulder/Davis path the day before so if you had made it to Davis it would have been easier but it is a long,long way back from Washington to Dry River TH.

 

[percious]

Pictures are up.

www.percious.com/hiking/

about 1/2 way down.

 

[Lawn Sale]

I also agree it was smart to turn back, the mountain will be there.

I tested my Dragonfly stove at full burn, and it uses 5ml of fuel a minute, which gives me a worst case (wide open, the flame is adjustable) of 56 minutes with the Sigg bottle, 63 with the 11 oz, 126 with the 22, and 189 minutes with the 33oz. I usually bring meals based on who else is going and how much fuel I'm taking. To date I have not run out, but I tend to overplan anyway.

It sounds like you had a good plan, the mountain and weather just didn't want to cooperate.