Atomic Rainiers at STP

[David Metsky]

For adjustables I like the BD Flicklock poles. They're the only ones I've used the never collapse at inopportune times. But they aren't very cheap.

It really depends on what kind of skiing you are doing. If you are planning on rolling tours and already have good length X-C poles they will do fine. They're lighter than a multi-section pole anyways. For downhills just choke up on the poles.

If you really want to spend time turning then get some adjustables. I prefer two section poles for skiing. Fewer parts to break, lighter weight, and you rarely need to stow them on your pack so size isn't an issue.

Bottom line - Get out and ski. Everything will make more sense once you've tried them out a few times. It's kind of like dancing about architecture until the snow flies.

-dave-

 

[TomD]

"It's kind of like dancing about architecture until the snow flies."

Ain't that the truth.

Oh, two more questions (will they never end, he asks)-what about climbing skins and should I wax the tips and tails?

 

[DougPaul]

Re poles:
I basically agree with Dave Metsky...

Except, I've had good luck with Leki (twist-lock) poles. An occasional cleaning of the tubes (inside and out) and lubrication (silicone grease) on the expansion screw is all it takes. Haven't tried any other brands--this might also do the job for them too.

(This is a recurring topic...)

I also agree with using 2 section poles for skiing. I adjust the length as I go to give me the optimum for whatever I'm doing at the moment.

(There are also some people who advocate fixed length poles as being less prone to breakage.)

Second hand DH ski poles work too--a short pair for DH and a longer pair for XC...

Doug

 

[DougPaul]

"It's kind of like dancing about architecture until the snow flies."

Ain't that the truth.

Think Snow!

Oh, two more questions (will they never end, he asks)-what about climbing skins and should I wax the tips and tails?

Skins are worth having if you want to do much steepish climbing.
See "Climbing Skins"
http://www.vftt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8610
"Calling all backcountry skiing experts"
http://www.vftt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=14065
and "Fischer vs. Karhu"
http://www.vftt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5782
(Search and ye shall find...)

Kicker skins are also a good alternative to klisters etc when the waxing conditions leave something to be desired. (I have and often carry both full and kicker skins. More detail in the above refs.)

IIRC, BC waxing has also been discussed before...
I wax the entire ski with grip wax. Better overall grip on the climb and good glide on the downhill. (Grip wax glides perfectly well. It may not win races, but I don't race in the BC.) Also makes it much easer to bridge a dip/hole/stream if you have grip wax on the tips and tails...

I have occasionally put wax on waxless skis to improve their grip.

It doesn't take long for most of us to be plodding rather than executing a smart kick in the BC (due to pack weight, breaking trail, soft track, fatigue, etc) so pressing the center of the ski into the snow to obtain grip doesn't work very well for very long...

I save the kick zone stuff for prepared tracks.

Doug

 

[Chip]

They're back in stock at STP for $69 for anyone who missed these last time.

Edited: Okay, now they're gone again.

 

[TomD]

Rainiers

I wax the entire ski with grip wax.

With a waxless ski, do you wax over the pattern? I think I read that somewhere, but maybe they meant glide wax. I read a couple of articles, including one on Wikipedia. I understand the concept, but not sure how it relates to a waxless ski.

I'm used to renting alpine gear and just stepping into the skis and going, so sorting out all this technical stuff is a bit much.

All info from all of you is much appreciated.

 

[DougPaul]

What exactly is grip wax and with a waxless ski, do you wax over the pattern? I think I read that somewhere, but maybe they meant glide wax.

Swix makes the most popular line of traditional XC grip waxes: http://www.rei.com/online/store/Pro...38&parent_category_rn=4501558&vcat=REI_SEARCH.

The above waxes act as grip waxes at their rated temps and as glide waxes at warmer temps. Thus you choose a grip wax by the rated temp and use a colder rated wax as a glider. (In practice, you use the ratings as a starting point and actually choose the wax by trial and error until the ski feels like you want it to.)

Solid wax is basically applied by crayoning on and smoothing with a cork or melting the wax in and scraping and brushing the excess off. (Warning: don't pay any attention to how racers prepare their skis--it can get very complicated very rapidly. )

BTW, basic waxing is very easy--just take a lesson or go out with a friend who knows how once or twice. (You can also learn from a book plus some experimentation, but someone showing you is much faster.) Under good snow conditions, a properly waxed ski will out-grip and out-glide a waxless ski. Waxing also allows one to tune a ski to match one's needs.

For a prepared track, one should put a glide wax on the tips and tails of a waxless ski. There are both liquid (poorer) and solid (better) waxes. There are also liquid non-wax preparations for waxless skis.

The casual skiers use a liquid glider (or do nothing) on the pattern. The purists melt in a solid wax and then carefully scrape the excess out of the pattern.

For the backcountry, you may need more grip for steeper climbs and when you go over a dip, the pattern may have air under it. Also, the pattern may not work very well in deep soft snow. Grip wax on the tips and tails of a waxless ski or the entire waxable ski will help in these situations.

Also with waxless skis, I take it you still need skins for steep climbs.

Yes. (One reason for not using some of the liquid base preparations is that the skin glue will not stick to them.)

BTW, the above applies only to traditional diagonal stride (kick and glide) skis. Skating skis use only glide waxes. (Skating skis are only used rarely in the BC--snow conditions have to be just right (hard smooth crust and wide trails).)

Doug

 

[TomD]

Once again Doug, thanks for the explanation-very helpful.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

For waxless skis on prepared tracks, and for simplicity, it is hard to go wrong with Swix F4. It helps especially in fresh snow -- keeps the snow from sticking to the scale pattern.

It gets exponentially more complicated as you go up the wax line, and into racing, as DougPaul points out. I don't race, but I take my skate skiing pretty seriously and spend about 30 minutes getting the skis ready for any given day.

Tim

 

[DougPaul]

For waxless skis on prepared tracks, and for simplicity, it is hard to go wrong with Swix F4. It helps especially in fresh snow -- keeps the snow from sticking to the scale pattern.

F4 is a fluroinated wax available in a number for forms. http://www.rei.com/online/store/Search?storeId=8000&vcat=REI_SEARCH&query=swix+f4&x=0&y=0
Never tried it myself, but it looks fine for waxless skis on prepared tracks. In general, you can't apply hydrocarbon (HC) waxes over fluros, so it might not be a good choice for BC.

Warning: don't use a hot iron on fluros without a respirator and good ventilation--the fumes are poisonous.

It gets exponentially more complicated as you go up the wax line, and into racing, as DougPaul points out. I don't race, but I take my skate skiing pretty seriously and spend about 30 minutes getting the skis ready for any given day.

Yep--racers spend 1000% more effort prepping their skis for 1% more speed...

Doug