Denali deaths

[sapblatt]

AP/Seattle Times -

Twins die in fall on Alaska's Mount McKinley Full story: http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2002271717_climbers12m.html

By MARY PEMBERTON
The Associated Press



ANCHORAGE -- Twin brothers who likely reached the summit of North America's highest mountain died in a fall, a Denali National Park and Preserve official said yesterday.

It is believed that 55-year-old brothers Jerry and Terry Humphrey of Negley, Ohio, reached the Mount McKinley summit and were descending when one of them fell, perhaps falling into the other, said spokeswoman Maureen McLaughlin.

The deaths were the first of the 2005 climbing season on the 20,320-foot mountain.

The brothers were not roped together, McLaughlin said. The bodies were found at 17,300 feet, just below Denali Pass.

The brothers fell approximately 1,000 feet.

Weather probably was not a factor as skies overnight were clear and winds were moderate. Conditions were not overly icy.

Jerry Humphrey's son, Jeremy, 25, was on a solo climb on McKinley when the accident occurred. He told park rangers he spoke to the pair at about 10 p.m. Tuesday while they were descending from the summit. They were at about 18,600 feet when he last talked to them. Denali Pass, where the accident likely occurred, is at approximately 18,000 feet.

A guided expedition camped at 17,200 feet notified park rangers yesterday morning that two climbers were overdue from an overnight summit attempt.

Members of the guided climbing party found the climbers' bodies just below Denali Pass, about a mile from the summit.

A rescue team from the Air National Guard's 212th Rescue Squadron, who were also camped at 17,200 feet, traversed to the bodies and prepared them to be taken off the mountain. A high-altitude helicopter brought the bodies to base camp.

The son was flown off the mountain yesterday.

 

[ALGonquin Bob]

Risk

Very tragic, but unfortunately not unusual. Climbing today is much safer than in the past, but climbing solo or in pairs adds more risk. These men were willing to take those additional risks, and their families must now suffer the consequenses. My heartfelt sympathy goes out to Jeremy Humphrey and the rest of the Humphrey family.

 

[sapblatt]

I have no experince at all in Denali type climbing. Mtnhiker's comments backed up what I thought...hiking with only two people on a summit like Denali is crazy. I was figurig if one person fell the other one would not be enough to stop him. Very sad.

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

....this one hits home, as they are my age; very sad......mostly climbers on the Washburn Route (West Buttress) above 14,200 ft go unroped, except on a couple of steep slopes where there are fixed ropes to be clipped.....

 

[DougPaul]

This is a fairly common accident site. A steep, often icy slope. Tired climbers coming down sometimes lose their footing...

IIRC, I think I have read of fixed ropes being placed on this slope.

Solo vs unroped pairs--makes little difference in a case like this . And being roped together would mean that one falling is likely to pull the other down if not using fixed belays.

Doug

 

[Frodo]

Tragic story… I didn't think that Denali pass was steep enough to not be able to self arrest and also not steep enough to be killed from a fall. I think there is a good chance that these 2 fell (slid) all the way down and survived (though injured), but died from exposure. The bottom of Denali Pass is a nasty place especially in May…

Attached is a picture I took about 2/3rds of the way up Denali Pass last June. I was more concerned about landing in the massive crevasse at the bottom than the fall it's self. We went up it unroped, but roped up for the descent.

As Dr. D. pointed out, many people on Denali travel mostly unroped above 14,200' because it is safer, and they have fixed lines at the most dangerous sections (Headwall and Washburn's Thumb). Denali Pass has just pickets with runners that you can clip your rope into, but no fixed line.

 

[sli74]

Attached is a picture I took about 2/3rds of the way up Denali Pass last June. I was more concerned about landing in the massive crevasse at the bottom than the fall it's self. We went up it unroped, but roped up for the descent.

Frodo, I can't view the picture

Tragic indeed. My sympathies to their families.

sli74

 

[Hampshire]

Tragic indeed. I fly out on next Friday, to climb Denali. Everything I've read and all the conversaions I've had with others agree with Frodo's description. By the way Frodo, congratulations, your trip report was a great read.

 

[Frodo]

It appears that the server was being changed right after I posted the picture (bad timing on my part), but seems to be working fine now. You can also scroll thru the pictures both forward and backwards to get a good idea what Denali Pass is like.


Hampshire, enjoy your trip! Your going to one of the most beautiful places on the planet!

 

[Jasonst]

It appears that the server was being changed right after I posted the picture (bad timing on my part), but seems to be working fine now. You can also scroll thru the pictures both forward and backwards to get a good idea what Denali Pass is like.


Hampshire, enjoy your trip! Your going to one of the most beautiful places on the planet!

AMAZING pictures. Must have been an incredible time. What does an adventure like this cost?

 

[Hampshire]

I'm going with a guide service (my climbing partner couldn't get away) and they charge $4800, the flight up was $550, $210 for the climbing permit, and another $500 misc. The guide service cost is steep, however, they provide all the food, flight to and from the glacier, and logistics. I'm sure Frodo's cost were much different than mine.

I must say that this trip is not about the money, its more a culmination of several years of gaining experience. The White's have been a great training ground.

 

[Frodo]

Jasonst,

We did it unguided, so it wasn't very expensive. $580 RT airfare, $150 climbing permit, $100 motels, $100 van shuttle from Anchorage to Talkeetna (and back). $300 RT for the chartered plane ride to and from the glacier (scaryest part of the whole trip). $200 for a sat phone (a luxury). This actually was the cheapest 3 week vacation that I have ever taken.

Now if you ever want to attempt Everest, plan on $60,000 plus airfare and accommodations, along with 2 months of your time

Hampshire, your right, the Whites are a fantastic training ground.

 

[Jay H]

I can attest to the scariest part of the trip is the flight to and from the drop off/glacier. As a person who is used to being in large jets or even a small turboprop, you wouldn't believe how the wind pushes a small plane liks a Cessna 172 or even a larger 206 around. Flew to Skagway, AK from Juneau in one and it was bumpy and we were landing on an airfield and not a glacier.

I'll be flying into Wrangell St. Elias in a few months from McCarthy so i guess I must be a glutton for punishment. However, $300 seems fairly cheap, our RT drop off service was something like $480 I think from McCarthy to a wilderness airstrip.

Jay

 

[Rick]

An old dear backpacking/climbing buddy is heading off in 2 weeks to climb Denali. He just sent me a copy of the article. I'll be saying a few prayers for him and thinking about him over that 3 week window he is using.

 

[TJH]

Frodo, those pictures are beautiful. I'm just curious though, other than all your experience in the whites, what training courses did you take, ( if any ) to get the experience to do that mountain unguided? Denali is a life goal for me that I hope to do within about 10 years or so. I know I'll do it guided though. TJH

 

[skiguy]

Hole in the WALL

Jasonst,

$300 RT for the chartered plane ride to and from the glacier (scaryest part of the whole trip).

I would agree with this. Probably one of the biggest risks of this whole trip but certainly one of the most exciting. When I did this trip we were lucky or unlucky enough depending on your perspective to fly through the "Hole in the Wall" on the the way out. This part of the flight takes you over a Col on a Ridge of Mt. Hunter(?) that only has room enough for the wing span of one single engine plane to fit through at a time. Quite interesting for us as the guy flying the plane had just moved from South Dakota from a crop dusting job the week before!

 

[Jay H]

Oops, I happen to check my flight itinerary, my charter flight into the backcountry in Wrangell is $275 per person, RT, I was thinking the $275 was one way.

Car rental in Alaska, now is insane.. However, since we're kind of on a tight schedule, I could not mesh our arrival with any van or bus service from Anchorage to McCarthy or Chitina.

Jay

 

[skiguy]

Worth the $$$

Jay H....
It's all worth it. The Views will be awesome.
Hope you get to Climb what you will see or want to do!
Weather plays a big part of the Alasken Flyers and Climbers.
These guys will fly through windows that will nock your socks off.
Be ready to sit on your butt before and when you want to Fly.
Be ready to go when the opportunity presents itself.
As FRODO said...."One of the most beautiful places on the Planet"

 

[Frodo]

Skiguy,

Is this what you went thru, One Shot Pass

JayH

Have an awesome time in Wrangell St. Elias! I have only flown over it and saw how the glaciers merge with the ocean which was incredibly beautiful. That's one of the many places on my list to spend some time in.

Rick,

I have 2 friends heading to Denali in the next few weeks on separate trips. One leaves on Thursday, and the other on June 6th. I will also be sending out some positive vives for them both...

TJH,

I have never taken a course. I have gotten all of my experience from reading, having some crazy friends (who have taught me much), and by just doing (both here in the East and out West). To sum up Denali: lots of winter camping, have to carry heavy loads up steep terrain, need to know crevasse rescue, have to know how to travel while roped up, be able to climb fixed lines, be able to deal with perpetual daylight, shoveling and snowwall building skills a plus, must be able to drop a deuce in front of others (no modesty allowed on a glacier), must be able to suffer and mentally be able to deal with it. Cannot have a problem with heights, high altitude, and below zero temps. Other than that it's a piece of cake...

 

[skiguy]

Thanx for Clarifying It

Skiguy,

Is this what you went thru, One Shot Pass

JayH

Have an awesome time in Wrangell St. Elias! I have only flown over it and saw how the glaciers merge with the ocean which was incredibly beautiful. That's one of the many places on my list to spend some time in.

Rick,

I have 2 friends heading to Denali in the next few weeks on separate trips. One leaves on Thursday, and the other on June 6th. I will also be sending out some positive vives for them both...

TJH,

I have never taken a course. I have gotten all of my experience from reading, having some crazy friends (who have taught me much), and by just doing (both here in the East and out West). To sum up Denali: lots of winter camping, have to carry heavy loads up steep terrain, need to know crevasse rescue, have to know how to travel while roped up, be able to climb fixed lines, be able to deal with perpetual daylight, shoveling and snowwall building skills a plus, must be able to drop a deuce in front of others (no modesty allowed on a glacier), must be able to suffer and mentally be able to deal with it. Cannot have a problem with heights, high altitude, and below zero temps. Other than that it's a piece of cake...

That's it Frodo. Thanx for clarifying that it was "One Shot Pass" and not "The Hole In The Wall". It's been ten years since I was up there and more time at Altitude since then has probably washed away more than a few Brain Cells. Your photos are great and definitely have jogged my memories on a few other things. I believe we did "Two Shot Pass" on the way in and "One Shot Pass" on the way out. I too had to throw away my underware after that Trip! Best Wishes and good luck to anyone headed to "BIG MAC" !!!