Dolomites Alta Via 1 (partial)

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Daniel Eagan

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Sep 8, 2003
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New York City
My wife and I were able to splurge on a brief trip to the Dolomites, where we had just enough time to hike the first three stages of the Alta Via 1. Each day was around 8 miles and between 2000 and 4000 feet elevation gain.

Due to planes, cars, buses, etc., we had a late start on day 1 (12:30), from Lago di Braies to the Sennes Hut. Very hot, exposed route up a drainage of loose rock and scree until you get to a brief ferrata. Above treeline the views open up and the landscapes turn lunar. Food at Sennes was the best, and the hot shower very welcome.

Day 2 starts wandering through a high valley dotted with farms, a steep downhill to Pederu refuge, then a steep uphill to the Lavarella Hut. Easiest hike of the trip, with awesome scenery.

Day 3 a steep uphill to another valley, then a turn left for 1000-feet climb to Forcella del Lago, a pass between two towering peaks. An amazing, 2000-foot drop straight down to a small lake, followed by another hot, exposed ascent up to our final hut at Lagazuoi. Toughest part of the hike, mostly due to the heat and a series of switchbacks right at the end.

The hut, just over 9000 feet, is remarkably situated. We could see over to Marmolada, site of the glacier collapse, and numerous other ranges. We lucked out with the weather: some thunderstorms towards evening and overnight, otherwise mostly sunny with welcome, cooling clouds. It dropped to 47 degrees at Lagazuoi.

Day 4 we descended via the Col die Bois, passing the WWI trenches and tunnels Darren described back in 2005. I wish we had more time, hope to get back soon to pick up the next few stages.

Heat and my advanced age were my biggest drawbacks. The huts were extraordinary, especially Lagazuoi, where we managed to get a private room. Hot showers, drinks, a full menu dinner and breakfast buffet brought great endings to each day. Fellow hikers were uniformly fun, welcoming, friendly. Somehow it was cheaper for two of us to stay in relative luxury than one night in an AMC hut with poor food, no showers, etc.

Trails were clean, well-marked, and perfectly maintained. I rarely matched the book time, but given the heat I was happy enough with our performance. We started and ended in Cortina.

It was Darren and Juniper who first got me interested in the Dolomites, so thanks to them and once again to this site.

some pictures:
Lago IMG_7780.jpgbathroom IMG_7806.jpgLag summit IMG_7830.jpgBal 2IMG_7862.jpg
 
Love this! What a fantastic trip. Used to love reading about the early days of Gunther and Reinhold Messner’s exploits in the Dolomites. Must have been incredible to be there and experience these beautiful mountains!
 
We did a similar hike a few years back, skipping the first two days and then doubling up on a few near the end to finish the Alta Via 1. Amazing terrain, huts, and people.
 
Fantastic Daniel, thanks for sharing.

There's no place like the Dolomites for great terrain and dramatic settings. And those huts! Did you fly into Milan?
 
We flew to Venice and rented a car. It's a little over two-hour drive to Cortina from there.

The huts were great. Sennes was around $140 for two people, two dinners, two breakfasts.
 
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