Eagle Slide - Giant

[ADK4Life]

Could anyone explain the proper ascent and exit of this slide? I am looking for a new adventure in the daks.

How would one rate this scramble to Huntington? Are there long stretches where you have no footing just friction holding you up?

 

[lumberzac]

I’ve never climbed either, but from what I have read, much of the Eagle Slide is a class 4 scramble. Hopefully someone with first hand knowledge will post soon.

 

[AMF]

Proper ascent is basically up, looking for a route of least resistance. Definitely cl 4 - you do NOT want to slip. I remember looking for the slightest variation to the rock to provide additional purchase for the feet, and I seem to recall there being a few short steps near the top, but the angle had started to moderate at that point. The scramble from the top of the slide to the summit was pretty short.

I would not do it in heavy boots, & if you got 'em, sticky rubber shoes will make you feel a lot more secure. Also, keep an eye on the weather - not a good place to get caught in a storm! IMHO, no comparison to Huntington, where the steep section if pretty brief. Eagle just goes on and on...

 

[ADK4Life]

Yeah all the reports I am looking at show class 4, would not want to get stuck on this slide with any rain present.

 

[Rob S]

There have been many discussions on Eagle Slide over the years, but THIS ONE is the only one I could find. I think you may find it helpful.

When are you planning the climb? I've been wanting to climb the Eagle for awhile, just need to find the time. September is pretty much booked up for me with trips to Arizona and NH. At any rate, if you're looking for partners, keep us posted as I know several others here have also been looking to do it.

 

[peak_bgr]

The beat route is refered to as the second feather. I climbed it about 3 years ago, and still to this day get cold chills when I think of how tricky spots can be. I made it to the top without incident but if the rocks are at all wet, you need to hug the sides, and use vegitation as life support-as wrong as that sounds.

The base of the entry route was very sandy and rocky with unstable footing but soon turned into a solid rock underfoot.

Recommendation--buy a pair of rock climbing shoes. They weigh nothing and take up little room.

Have fun.

 

[blacklab2020]

Did the slide halfway before a thunderstorm hit... Definately Class 4 in spots (Though it is a big slide, there might be ways to avoid 4th class.) The second finger is the best as everyone has stated... At the top of the scree slope we ventured left onto the open slab which was wet in late july, not from recent rains (the right is not as exposed however, much more dense with brush). Above the first open narrow slab, we went right at the bottom and then tended to veer back to the left. That seemed to be the best since we had 25-35 lb packs with overnight gear on.... There is no room for error without a rope. We had a rope and wound up rapping off when a thunderstorm broke the ridge.

When climbing the gully prior to the slide there might be temptation to exit on the left as the stream veers right. Stay with the stream all the way. You will hit some open slabs in the stream and then a steeper rock scramble before the scree field and finally the slide.

Climbing shoes are a must. Long sections of runout open slab. If you are comfortable climbing at chapel pond slabs you should be fine without a rope. If you have a scope you could clearly check it out from the road going up to the AMR Club on the west side of 73. I know there are also good pictures on the web of this slide from Noonmark. I think its Lower Ausable Club road.

Best of Luck. The views are Awesome. I am totally going back at somepoint.

~Justin

 

[Whiteman]

Go for it!

This is a great route. Granted I did it a long long time ago, before adult sensibilities fully took hold, but I'd go back.

As mentioned in the other thread, there is a nice route desciption at the summitpost.org for Giant.

Good luck!

 

[blacklab2020]

Thinking about it more and more now, I am probably going to attempt this slide in the end of september when the leaves are changing (This might be a little more risky because of rains or I could get lucky). If you are looking for company to join you...let me know.

I have been climbing for 12+ years (5th class trad mostly, leading up to 5.10+) and am always looking to do long exposed backcountry climbs.

 

[Guinness]

I have done the Eagle three times over the years. Each time gets better and better as I get more comfortable with the Eagle's challenges. To locate the base of the slide follow the Roaring Brook trail and drop down to the brook when you get near the 2,400 foot elevation mark. There should be two small cairns marking the turnoff. I have also gone as high as 3,200 foot elevation mark to bushwhack to the base, but that route is dense with brush.

I've stayed on the left bank following the brook and stay with the main water flow, do not turn on any tributaries. The base of the slide starts with a buildup of talus before the actual slab starts. It is also wise to change from your normal boots into approach shoes, or in my case I carry slab shoes. I always recommend that you attempt this only on a dry day. When it is wet, your traction will be very poor.

There are plenty of small ledges to take breaks on as you ascend. Along the route, there will be short sections that make it a class IV. Most of these sections are 10-20 feet in elevation gain. Otherwise with good traction and handholds you should have no problems. At the top of the slide, there is a flat area you can sit on to change back into your boots. The last few feet is a short bushwhack before you intersect with the trail. The summit will be on your left along the trail.