Ryan and I recently spent two weeks hiking in the French Alps (with a bit of Switzerland thrown in for good measure) along a portion of the Grande Randonnée #5 (GR5). The route we followed began in St. Gingolph, on the shores of Lake Geneva, and continued south to the small French city of Modane. The weather was generally fantastic, with just enough of the bad stuff to make us appreciate the good. Total mileage covered, according to the guide book we used, was about 215 miles, with roughly 60,000 feet of elevation gain. Along the way we stayed in a combination of mountain refuges and small hotels and we had a chance to try out most of the Savoyard specialities at mealtimes (in other words, we each ate our body weight in cheese). The scenery was varied and wonderful – I highly recommend a visit to this area if you are thinking of doing an Alps hiking trip. However, you might want to go during the true summer season, as we discovered that September is a very quiet time on the trail and in the towns along the way, where food and lodging options were very limited.
The GR5 is one of the many long-distance routes through the Alps, and it technically begins at the North Sea in Holland and finishes at the Mediterranean Sea in Nice, France. As with other long-distance routes of this type, with huts and towns sprinkled along the way, an itinerary can be built to suit any hiker. Not many Americans visit these parts, as was evidenced by the reaction we got from numerous folks we met along the way. You can decide whether this is a plus or not.
It probably did give us a bit of cover for our wacky appearance (relatively small packs, absence of sturdy boots, and of course Farmer’s short shorts).
A brief run-through of the trip follows and pictures are here (new camera, not happy with the outcome). Numbers for each day are estimates of miles/elev gain/elev loss.
Day 1 – Living so close to Europe does have its benefits. We left home early in the morning, and following a subway ride, then plane, train and boat rides, we were on the trail by 3:30pm. We needed to hoof it to our reserved refuge by an unknown dinner time, which was 7.5 miles and 5000ft of climbing away. Excited to finally be underway, and as always motivated by food, I am happy to report that we made it on time to the (very) basic Chalets de Bise. 7.5/5053/1342
Day 2 – Nearly died of starvation, and learned that we needed to carry plenty of food with us on the trail since supplies on the ground were very thin. The super cozy Refuge de Chesery won the “best dinner” award (delicious lamb chops, noodles, carrot salad, cheese, choc pudding, and wine). 17/5922/4398
Day 3 – Got an early start since the forecast was for snow. Saw some of the white stuff early on, but then the day cleared up as we ended our brief stay in Switzerland. The descent on the road down to Samoens was not terribly fun, but we managed. And since we hadn’t been through any towns that day where we could get some food supplies, we nearly died of starvation again. Dinner consisted of some regional specialties involving cheese, potatoes, ham, cheese, little pickles and cured meats, bread, wine and, of course, cheese. 16/2400/6565
Day 4 – Still able to walk despite the previous night’s dinner, we set out towards what would be the first (IMO) Truly Beautiful section of trail. Following a long flat bit, we began climbing to an impressive roadside waterfall, and then continued to climb until we reached a delightful spot to take in the first views we were getting of snow-covered peaks. We then continued on towards the Col d’Anterne, passing by a lovely lake, with the dramatic Rochers des Fiz nearby. One final climb later and we were treated to views of Mont Blanc and our destination for the day, the Refuge Moede Anterne. The run down from the col was enjoyed by all. 14/5905/1655
Day 5 – Moving on to bigger things, we left the Col D’Anterne behind and made our way up to a new high point, Le Brevent. It was the only real summit our route passed over, and it offered fine views and sunburn opportunities. After a nice lounge and snack on the summit, we made our way down to Chamonix in the valley below. Since it was a nice day and we still had a few hours before dinner, we took a ride on the Téléphérique de l'Aiguille du Midi, which still holds the record as the highest vertical ascent cable car in the world (from 1,035m to 3,842m). 13/3280/6530
Day 6 – After a very leisurely start to the day, which included the trip’s Best Breakfast, we travelled by cable car back up to the Plan de l’Aiguille (2317m) encumbered only by small water bottles. From there we enjoyed a rather leisurely trot across the Grand Balcon Nord trail over to view the Mer de Glace glacier at Montenvers and then made our way back down to Chamonix. Fondue for dinner. 10/1000/5000
Day 7 – Time warp day. Revised endpoint was Les Contamines. There was climbing up a really boring and steep gravel road with no views. We paid $5 (each!) for Cokes, but it was worth it because it was hot. After the Col de Voza we took the variant over to Bionassay where we hoped to get close to the glacier. There were lots of people on the trail. They were hot too. 17.5/5220/4415
Day 8 – We walked through beautiful countryside over the Col du Bonhomme (Danny Daypack was no match for us!) and then enjoyed a great ridge walk at Crete des Gittes followed by the wonderfully-named Col de la Sauce. We had hoped to stay at the refuge at Plan de la Lai, but they had no room for us. We went to the nearby gite at Plan Mya. They had no room for us. But for some reason they took pity (the next refuge was nearly 5 hours away!) and gave us two beds in the little room where their staff slept. Dinner was quite delicious, the company was the most friendly we’d encountered, and we were taught how to play the card game Tarot. 15/5035/2705
Day 9 – The day started nice and cool, which was good since most of our climbing came early on. We made our way to the Col du Bresson and then down through a really pretty valley, then made our way over and down to the town of Landry. This was a hot and dry descent, and we were parched and cranky when we made it to town. There we found no businesses open but did finally locate our guest house which was lovely (plug for Maison Caramel). We dined alone at the one and only restaurant in town (more Savoyard specialties!). 18/3525/6955
Day 10 – Today we entered the Parc Nationale de la Vanoise, where we would spend the rest of the trip. Our preference was to end the trip in Modane, so we decided to string together a 5-day combo of the GR55 and GR5 in the Vanoise. We were feeling good and enjoying the scenery, and so decided to cruise on past our intended stopping point at Refuge d’Entre le Lac and on to the highest refuge on the GR5 near the Col du Palet. This place was a gem. 14/5981/850
Day 11 – The weather was not great this day, but it didn’t matter because our new modified Vanoise program meant that we only needed to hike about 3 hours over to the ski resort of Val D’Isere in order to set us up for the following two days. We spent the afternoon waiting to have dinner (again) in a town where nothing was open. 8/692/4005
Day 12 – Weather was much better and so were the surroundings. We climbed up to the moon surface that is the Col de l’Iseran, which boasts the highest paved pass in the French Alps. Later on Farmer fought off a mean dog and we made our way across the long traverse above Bonneval sur Arc, through le Villaron and then down to the town of Bessans where we went through the usual routine of trying to find someone, somewhere, who would serve us food. Savoyard specialties were consumed. 15.5/4460/4790
Day 13 – This was supposed to be a long day, but it went very quickly. The weather, the views and the trail were fantastic. Clouds eventually rolled in and we got hailed on a bit, but it didn’t really matter because we were nearly at our destination. 18.5/4690/2545
Day 14 – This was pretty much a perma-grin day for me. Col de la Vanoise was one of the many gems on the day’s walk. Our day ended at the posh refuge Roc de la Peche. We had a nice meal with some friendly folks and were fortunate to be able to diversify away from our regular card games since they had a Scrabble board on hand. 18/3115/4910
Day 15 – This was our last day on the trail, and it was interesting and beautiful and sometimes weird. We crossed the highest point on our trip at the Col de Chaviere and then reluctantly made our way down toward our final destination, Modane. The descent was surprisingly gentle and very scenic. 13/3115/5775
Day 16 – Geneva to London
The GR5 is one of the many long-distance routes through the Alps, and it technically begins at the North Sea in Holland and finishes at the Mediterranean Sea in Nice, France. As with other long-distance routes of this type, with huts and towns sprinkled along the way, an itinerary can be built to suit any hiker. Not many Americans visit these parts, as was evidenced by the reaction we got from numerous folks we met along the way. You can decide whether this is a plus or not.
It probably did give us a bit of cover for our wacky appearance (relatively small packs, absence of sturdy boots, and of course Farmer’s short shorts). A brief run-through of the trip follows and pictures are here (new camera, not happy with the outcome). Numbers for each day are estimates of miles/elev gain/elev loss.
Day 1 – Living so close to Europe does have its benefits. We left home early in the morning, and following a subway ride, then plane, train and boat rides, we were on the trail by 3:30pm. We needed to hoof it to our reserved refuge by an unknown dinner time, which was 7.5 miles and 5000ft of climbing away. Excited to finally be underway, and as always motivated by food, I am happy to report that we made it on time to the (very) basic Chalets de Bise. 7.5/5053/1342
Day 2 – Nearly died of starvation, and learned that we needed to carry plenty of food with us on the trail since supplies on the ground were very thin. The super cozy Refuge de Chesery won the “best dinner” award (delicious lamb chops, noodles, carrot salad, cheese, choc pudding, and wine). 17/5922/4398
Day 3 – Got an early start since the forecast was for snow. Saw some of the white stuff early on, but then the day cleared up as we ended our brief stay in Switzerland. The descent on the road down to Samoens was not terribly fun, but we managed. And since we hadn’t been through any towns that day where we could get some food supplies, we nearly died of starvation again. Dinner consisted of some regional specialties involving cheese, potatoes, ham, cheese, little pickles and cured meats, bread, wine and, of course, cheese. 16/2400/6565
Day 4 – Still able to walk despite the previous night’s dinner, we set out towards what would be the first (IMO) Truly Beautiful section of trail. Following a long flat bit, we began climbing to an impressive roadside waterfall, and then continued to climb until we reached a delightful spot to take in the first views we were getting of snow-covered peaks. We then continued on towards the Col d’Anterne, passing by a lovely lake, with the dramatic Rochers des Fiz nearby. One final climb later and we were treated to views of Mont Blanc and our destination for the day, the Refuge Moede Anterne. The run down from the col was enjoyed by all. 14/5905/1655
Day 5 – Moving on to bigger things, we left the Col D’Anterne behind and made our way up to a new high point, Le Brevent. It was the only real summit our route passed over, and it offered fine views and sunburn opportunities. After a nice lounge and snack on the summit, we made our way down to Chamonix in the valley below. Since it was a nice day and we still had a few hours before dinner, we took a ride on the Téléphérique de l'Aiguille du Midi, which still holds the record as the highest vertical ascent cable car in the world (from 1,035m to 3,842m). 13/3280/6530
Day 6 – After a very leisurely start to the day, which included the trip’s Best Breakfast, we travelled by cable car back up to the Plan de l’Aiguille (2317m) encumbered only by small water bottles. From there we enjoyed a rather leisurely trot across the Grand Balcon Nord trail over to view the Mer de Glace glacier at Montenvers and then made our way back down to Chamonix. Fondue for dinner. 10/1000/5000
Day 7 – Time warp day. Revised endpoint was Les Contamines. There was climbing up a really boring and steep gravel road with no views. We paid $5 (each!) for Cokes, but it was worth it because it was hot. After the Col de Voza we took the variant over to Bionassay where we hoped to get close to the glacier. There were lots of people on the trail. They were hot too. 17.5/5220/4415
Day 8 – We walked through beautiful countryside over the Col du Bonhomme (Danny Daypack was no match for us!) and then enjoyed a great ridge walk at Crete des Gittes followed by the wonderfully-named Col de la Sauce. We had hoped to stay at the refuge at Plan de la Lai, but they had no room for us. We went to the nearby gite at Plan Mya. They had no room for us. But for some reason they took pity (the next refuge was nearly 5 hours away!) and gave us two beds in the little room where their staff slept. Dinner was quite delicious, the company was the most friendly we’d encountered, and we were taught how to play the card game Tarot. 15/5035/2705
Day 9 – The day started nice and cool, which was good since most of our climbing came early on. We made our way to the Col du Bresson and then down through a really pretty valley, then made our way over and down to the town of Landry. This was a hot and dry descent, and we were parched and cranky when we made it to town. There we found no businesses open but did finally locate our guest house which was lovely (plug for Maison Caramel). We dined alone at the one and only restaurant in town (more Savoyard specialties!). 18/3525/6955
Day 10 – Today we entered the Parc Nationale de la Vanoise, where we would spend the rest of the trip. Our preference was to end the trip in Modane, so we decided to string together a 5-day combo of the GR55 and GR5 in the Vanoise. We were feeling good and enjoying the scenery, and so decided to cruise on past our intended stopping point at Refuge d’Entre le Lac and on to the highest refuge on the GR5 near the Col du Palet. This place was a gem. 14/5981/850
Day 11 – The weather was not great this day, but it didn’t matter because our new modified Vanoise program meant that we only needed to hike about 3 hours over to the ski resort of Val D’Isere in order to set us up for the following two days. We spent the afternoon waiting to have dinner (again) in a town where nothing was open. 8/692/4005
Day 12 – Weather was much better and so were the surroundings. We climbed up to the moon surface that is the Col de l’Iseran, which boasts the highest paved pass in the French Alps. Later on Farmer fought off a mean dog and we made our way across the long traverse above Bonneval sur Arc, through le Villaron and then down to the town of Bessans where we went through the usual routine of trying to find someone, somewhere, who would serve us food. Savoyard specialties were consumed. 15.5/4460/4790
Day 13 – This was supposed to be a long day, but it went very quickly. The weather, the views and the trail were fantastic. Clouds eventually rolled in and we got hailed on a bit, but it didn’t really matter because we were nearly at our destination. 18.5/4690/2545
Day 14 – This was pretty much a perma-grin day for me. Col de la Vanoise was one of the many gems on the day’s walk. Our day ended at the posh refuge Roc de la Peche. We had a nice meal with some friendly folks and were fortunate to be able to diversify away from our regular card games since they had a Scrabble board on hand. 18/3115/4910
Day 15 – This was our last day on the trail, and it was interesting and beautiful and sometimes weird. We crossed the highest point on our trip at the Col de Chaviere and then reluctantly made our way down toward our final destination, Modane. The descent was surprisingly gentle and very scenic. 13/3115/5775
Day 16 – Geneva to London
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