Headlamp Recommendation For Night Hiking

[TJsName]

I have a BD Spot. I picked it up 2 years ago and am very satisfied. It has all of the discussed features (hi/lo, red, dim, lock, battery indicator) and I use it for every thing from walking the dog at night to snow blowing to hiking to taking out the recycling.

I accidentally locked mine one time and I was very confused. I had kind of forgotten about that feature, but it works!

The only drawback I've experienced is that when the batteries go, they go quick (within an hour), but the still give off some light for quite some time after that (imagine a cube root function curve (for shape only!)). Perhaps this is a property of all LED headlamps though, as my experience is not terribly broad yet.

 

[DougPaul]

I still use my 1st generation 3-LED Petzl Tikka.

This was the light on which the switch failed. I returned it and bought a Princeton Tec Aurora. (I still have several Auroras and continue to use them. One does duty as a backup light. The PT Fuel is the modern follow-on.)

There have been improvements in LED technology since the early lights. The newer LEDs are more efficient and some can run at much higher (brighter) power levels.

My original 3-LED Tikka had only one light level with a flood beam. Many newer lights have multiple intensities and both flood and spot beams. Some also have some degree of waterproofing. (I have several lights with all of these features and choose whichever is best suited for each trip.)

Doug

 

[Remix]

Get one with a spot mode if you can plan on crossing water by rock hopping.....its no fun to find out you can't make it over once you are halfway.

I'm not sure its worthwhile buying a premium unit because the solid state lighting industry--Light Emitting Diodes--is continually pushing prices down and driving performance up. But certainly get something that is waterproof.

If you plan on doing a lot of winter hiking, you can get units with the battery pack on a long cord. This lets you stick the batteries in an inner pocket. Keeping the batteries warm allows you to extract the most amount of energy from them; they are more expensive.

 

[DougPaul]

The only drawback I've experienced is that when the batteries go, they go quick (within an hour), but the still give off some light for quite some time after that (imagine a cube root function curve (for shape only!)). Perhaps this is a property of all LED headlamps though, as my experience is not terribly broad yet.

The light intensity curve over time is a function of the LEDs, the electronic circuitry, and the battery type. It can get complicated...

Batteries:
* Alkaline batteries have a tapering voltage as they discharge. Lithium primary (non-rechargable) and NiMH cells have rectangular discharge curves (the voltage stays pretty constant until near the end).

Electronic circuitry:
* All LED lights include some electronic circuitry, if only to limit the maximum current. (LEDs are subject to thermal runaway if fed from a constant voltage source such as a battery.)
* Multi-intensity lights use pulse-duty circuits to reduce the intensity. (The current is switched on and off rapidly--50% on time gives 1/2 intensity, 25% 1/4 intensity, etc.)
* There may be a (voltage) boost circuit to increase the voltage of dying batteries. A boost circuit is required in 1 or 2 cell lights because a higher voltage is required to operate the LED--lights with 3 or more cells may or may not have a boost circuit.
* Some lights include regulators. Regulators compensate for a decaying battery voltage to keep the intensity constant until the voltage drops below some limit. As the voltage drops, they must draw more current to compensate (constant power).
* Power limiting: High-power LEDs can be damaged by overheating so there is a temperature sensor and the average current (power) is reduced when they get near their maximum operating temperatures.

LEDs
* White LEDs require at least ~3.3 V to operate and the current (and brightness) will increase rapidly as the voltage is increased. The control circuitry controls the current rather than the voltage due to this near constant voltage load characteristic.
* LEDs, unlike incandescent bulbs, will produce a small amount of light at very low currents. Thus an LED light can still be useful (but dim...) with near dead batteries.
* The color of the light does not change with intensity--thus, unlike incandescent lights, a change in color cannot be used to indicate weakening batteries.
* High power LEDs are less efficient than low power LEDs. This is why many low to medium power flood beam lights use multiple small LEDs.

For the entire system, the light vs time curve depends on the details and how they work together.
* Lithium and NiMH powered lights will tend to stay at constant intensity for a period of time and then drop off fairly quickly due to the rectangular discharge curve of the batteries.
* Alkaline powered lights with regulators will keep the intensity fairly constant until a certain point. If the light includes a boost circuit, the light is likely to drop quickly. If there is no boost circuit the light is likely to drop off slowly. (At least one light (PT Apex) is programmed to drop to a lower intensity earlier to keep the boost regulator from discharging the batteries too quickly.)
* Alkaline powered lights without regulators will have the light level decrease continuously over time as the battery voltage droops.
* Some higher powered lights will start out very bright but then dim down somewhat as they heat up and the power limiting circuit kicks in. The intensity will recover if the light is allowed to cool down.
* All LED lights will continue to put out some light even with very weak batteries.

To increase the battery lifetime, reduce the intensity of your light and use flood modes (they usually consume less power than spot modes). 20 lumens of flood beam light is quite sufficient for following a well marked trail. Only use the higher intensities when you really need them. (100+ lumens on 3 AAA cells guarantees a short realistic battery lifetime.)

Note: The manufacturer's duration specs are rediculous... They declare the end of useable duration to be when the intensity at 2 meters is similar to that of moonlight (no matter what the initial intensity). IMO, this is barely sufficient for searching in your pack for your backup batteries or headlamp. A much more useful rating would be how long it takes for the light to drop to 50% of its initial intensity. (But that would be a much smaller number...)

FWIW, I estimate the lifetime by measuring the current at each intensity and dividing it into the cell capacity (~800mAh for AAA and ~2500mAh for AA). This is a conservative estimate which is more accurate for NiMH and lithium due to their rectangular discharge curves. It underestimates the lifetime for alkaline cells because it does not take the continuous voltage reduction over time into account.

Doug

 

[TJsName]

Cool - thanks for those details - fascinating stuff! Based on that, I would guess that the BD Spot had a regulator with a boost circuit (since I use 3 AAA Alkaline batteries) based on the pattern of light fade I have experienced.

 

[DayTrip]

Don't you only take Day Trips? I have a $30 Petzl / 3xAAA that works for me. Were I to do entire excursions in the dark, I'd want something better than that. Petzl and Black Diamond are two pretty popular brands.

Tim

Lol. OK technically I'm 24 hr-Trip: Drive-Hike-Drive within a 24 hour period. I have a sunset/sunrise hike on my bucket list that I want to get done this year so I want a good headlamp that will hold up to many hours of continuous use summer or winter.

 

[DayTrip]

Whatever you get I have 2 recommendations:

1. Backup batteries / bulb.

2. Buy a key chain light and attach it to the strap of the headlamp. It weighs 1/4 oz and costs about $1.00. If you ever have a primary failure, the key chain light can help you find the backup, which is probably buried in your pack.

Good idea. I keep one of those Innova key chain lights clipped to my backpack strap when there is a possibility of being out after dark. I also carry lightsticks.

 

[DayTrip]

This is not meant to be mean spirited, but I could never understand why people always say, " You should bring two headlamps". I have a Petzel and it has never failed me, backup batteries and a bulb, heck yeah, way smart, but a whole another lamp???
P.S. That little keychain thing, that's not a bad idea.

Seems like a convenience thing more than a necessity. One lamp starts to go and you just throw another one on and screw with the batteries later on when it is light out. With the costs dropping it is more feasible too. I'd probably still carry extra batteries even with a second lamp. Such a critical item. I'd want many options available to me.

 

[DougPaul]

Seems like a convenience thing more than a necessity. One lamp starts to go and you just throw another one on and screw with the batteries later on when it is light out. With the costs dropping it is more feasible too. I'd probably still carry extra batteries even with a second lamp. Such a critical item. I'd want many options available to me.

IMO, a spare headlamp is more than a convenience because it increases safety by redundancy. And when the batteries of the first light die, a backup can be used to illuminate changing its batteries.

On Becca's and my overnight Pemi-lollipop BC ski trip, we both carried spare lights and spare batteries.

Also I often use NiMH batteries in my headlamps. It makes it easy to guarantee that I start with fully charged batteries. (And lithium or NiMH spares.)

Doug

 

[DougPaul]

Cool - thanks for those details - fascinating stuff! Based on that, I would guess that the BD Spot had a regulator with a boost circuit (since I use 3 AAA Alkaline batteries) based on the pattern of light fade I have experienced.

REI lists the BD Spot (3 AAA) as being unregulated and its stable-mate Storm (4 AAA) as being regulated.

It looks to me as if the Storm avoids a boost circuit by putting in "too many" (4 AAA) batteries. (If these batteries were connected directly to the LED they would overpower and damage it.) So the too large voltage is followed by a regulator which limits the maximum power delivered to the LED to 100%. As the batteries discharge, the regulator can compensate and still deliver 100% to the LED. Eventually the batteries can no longer deliver 100% and the light slowly fades. (The 2013-2014 BD Icon (4 AA) also appears to use this same strategy.) However, I could be wrong--there could be a boost circuit in either or both.

The regulated Princeton Tec Apex appears to include a boost circuit. See http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/pt_apex.htm for a detailed analysis. (This website has detailed analyses of a number of older headlamps and flashlights--unfortunately for us, the author stopped updating it in 2010.)

FWIW, the boost function would likely be combined with the regulation function in a single circuit.

Doug

 

[Remix]

This is not meant to be mean spirited, but I could never understand why people always say, " You should bring two headlamps". I have a Petzel and it has never failed me, backup batteries and a bulb, heck yeah, way smart, but a whole another lamp???
P.S. That little keychain thing, that's not a bad idea.

I think it goes back to risk....the probability of failure may be low but the consequences may be high, especially if it's winter and a LED only unit stops working. I've seen the electronics board on my Princeton and it's not even coated to prevent corrosion or damage to tiny electronics parts from water or ice. The cable got pulled out of the light housing and it took a while to notice. Water could have easily gotten in.

It probably got damaged when I was fiddling around with it with thick gloves and a hat...pulling on the housing to adjust the strap.

The things weigh so little that there is almost no penalty to having a spare.

 

[Stan]

Not a bad idea to carry that backup headlamp, especially if you're going to skimp on the first one. There are lots of things I try to save money on, important outdoor equipment is not one of them. Personally, I carry one headlamp and a mag lite and always try to buy electronic stuff that uses the same size batteries to avoid carrying so many spares. I have a petzl and really pleased with the led lumens. It has a simple plastic lens that allows the light to be focused or diffused as needed. Don't know the point of the flashing mode. I prefer to do that with my hand if need be and keep the light simpler, but, that's marketing.

 

[DougPaul]

Don't know the point of the flashing mode. I prefer to do that with my hand if need be and keep the light simpler, but, that's marketing.

Supposedly the flashing mode is to be used to indicate distress. It would not only reduce arm and hand fatigue but also increases the battery life over a continuous light of the same intensity.

Besides it is easy to do with an LED light...

Doug

 

[cushetunk]

Forget backup batteries, carry a whole backup headlamp. Avoids the sort of mishap that Maineman described. Practically no extra space or weight compared to just extra batteries, it's possibly the best $30 you'll spend. In winter, it can be a literal life-saver, or at least finger-saver.

This is not meant to be mean spirited, but I could never understand why people always say, " You should bring two headlamps". I have a Petzel and it has never failed me, backup batteries and a bulb, heck yeah, way smart, but a whole another lamp???

I sometimes carry two headlamps because the 2nd headlamp is the most convenient way to carry a second set of batteries. It weighs almost nothing anyway. But that is mostly in winter and when I expect a very long day outside. Most of the time its one headlamp and done -- I check the batteries occasionally to make sure they are still good, and replace them before longer trips.

 

[alexmtn]

I have the BD Storm. The reason I DON'T recommend it is because it is very easy for it to get turned on accidentally inside your pack. The "on" button is sitting right on top of the lamp and needs only a modest amount of pressure. Shove your gloves into the top of your pack with your headlamp and you might inadvertently turn it on. I've found mine switched on in the top of my pack twice in the two years I've had it. Love the 160 lumens, hate the on/off button. I believe the Spot and newer versions of the Storm have some kind of lock feature, which should solve the problem. I'm thinking BD got some feedback on this problem...

Brian, both the 100 (older) and 160 lumen (just released) versions of the Storm have the 'accidental on' lockout feature. Just hold the button down for 6 seconds. After 3 seconds, the red will go on. Keep holding. The status LED will then flicker blue. At that point, it's locked. To unlock, just hold the button down again.

As a point of information, the new Spot also has the lockout feature. For those interested in Spot vs. Storm (both great lights), BD characterizes the Storm as a 'burlier' version of the Spot. The differences:
- IPX 7 (fully waterproof for 1 hour under 1M of water) vs IPX 4 (Rain/splash resistant)
- 160 lumens vs 130 lumens (both models got upgraded/brighter LEDs for 2014)
- 33% more battery reserves (4 vs. 3 AAAs)
- a little heavier (the lamp weighs 4.2oz when loaded with alkalines; lithiums lighter)

Oddly, BD gives the Spot 5 meters more illumination distance than the Storm (75m vs. 70). My guess is that the Storm takes advantage of its added brightness to diffuse/widen the beam a bit at a modest cost in range ( in determining how much they could widen the beam, they were probably trying roughly to match the Spot's range).

My choice between them depends on the anticipated terrain and weather conditions. On a big trip with substantial anticipated time in the dark, I'll carry both - it's a big advantage in many situations not to have to change batteries on the spot [pun not intended].

Alex

 

[Mike P.]

Gloves and headlamps are probably the two things I go redundant on. Don't take up much space and warm hands and light are worthwhile when compared to the other alternative. I sometimes have two -six kids with me so I usually have even more than two plus a keychain light for searching in the back in the dark if the first headlamp goes out. (Had it happen once coming down Caps Ridge below the Caps, in the trees)

Problem I've had with keychain lights is that if they secure to the keychain well, the lights iffy, the best lights seem to have the lamest attachment points. The current light attaches well but comes on accidently.

Same as the others, Petzl, Black Diamond and Princeton Tec, I do prefer the first two over Princeton

 

[Raven]

I almost always carry two headlamps as well as one extra set of batteries. I have had a few nice Petzl headlamps, and always had bad luck with cheap ones until I found one made by Ozark Trail (ugh walmart). It takes three AAA batteries, has 2 modes, one brighter than the other, 3 LED lights, and has been spectacular. After I had one for long enough to be convinced they were good, I bought 5-6 of them. They are more now but they were $5. I was astounded at how good it actually was and how long the batteries lasted. This was a rare find. I hiked about 10 miles from Mount Bond out to Lincoln Woods a couple weeks ago using one of these in full darkness. I have been using them a few years and actually leave an expensive Petzl at home most times now. The Petzl has more features, yes.

Nearly every cheap headlamp I ever had or used was garbage. I think the LED technology has come far enough to make it possible now to have a good light cheap. Rare find though.

 

[alexmtn]

I'm not familiar with 'Ozark Trail', but in general, these are the basic things you get with an "expensive," hiking-specific headlamp these days vs. a comparably-batteried "bargain" lamp:

- rugged/resilient construction that survives bangs and falls and clumsy hands
- power efficiency, leading to longer battery life (most lamps these days will give you 50-100 hrs on 'hi')
- lower 'lowest' setting, enabling even more battery conservation (100-200+ hrs) and softer reading and other close-in use
- rain/splash resistance
- lock to prevent accidental in-pack switch-on's
- smaller & lighter

I've come to appreciate and expect each of these.

Alex

 

[Raven]

I'm not familiar with 'Ozark Trail', but in general, these are the basic things you get with an "expensive," hiking-specific headlamp these days vs. a comparably-batteried "bargain" lamp:

- rugged/resilient construction that survives bangs and falls and clumsy hands
- power efficiency, leading to longer battery life (most lamps these days will give you 50-100 hrs on 'hi')
- lower 'lowest' setting, enabling even more battery conservation (100-200+ hrs) and softer reading and other close-in use
- rain/splash resistance
- lock to prevent accidental in-pack switch-on's
- smaller & lighter

I've come to appreciate and expect each of these.

Alex

This is what is interesting about this headlamp. It has the features I care about. It's actually lighter than my others and the batteries last a long time. I use them at home to read in bed as well. No protection against accidental turn on and this can be an issue with this one, but the batteries go in and out easily. I got in the habit years ago of taking the batteries out of my headlamp when in my pack. I do that more so if I only carry one, not so much with two in the pack.

Most Ozark Trail gear IMO is not great for hiking and tends to be more cheaply made and heavier than most. It's equivalent to Coleman. Suppose that's why it's cheap. This may just be one of those rare instances where they stumbled on something quite good.

 

[Quietman]

I used THESE Energizer Headlamps from Walmart for may years but when I picked up a discounted "return" BD Spot for $19 from EMS, I was converted. Still carry a Princeton Ion as a spare, but the BD Spot is my go to lamp for hiking ,biking and late night care car and appliance repairs and power outages. As a cheap-skate I would still use a coleman or Ozark Trail as a backup. But won't leave the BD Spot at home.