Highpointers up the Butt: 14,200 feet

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Mohamed Ellozy

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June 6th

On Friday (June 4th) they climbed to 13,500 feet and dropped some gear, returning to 11,200. I seem to understand that they climbed to 14,200 feet on Saturday, the last message said that the forecast was for bad weather that day.

They are now at "high base camp" at 14,200 feet, lots of people, a very international group. Also lots of guided trips. Weather is beautiful. On Tuesday they plan to climb up to 16,200 or 17,200 feet for acclimatization. After that they are thinking of a summit attempt directly from 14,200 feet, which they figure is easier than establishing a high camp at 17,000 feet. That is a big climb: 6,000 vertical feet, 16 hours round trip.

Highpointers up the Butt for all reports.
 
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Peter Anderson, who was one of the three of us who turned around this year, soloed in about 20 hours round trip from 14,200 ft to the summit at 20,320 ft in 1997. This option is one that we discussed at length in planning our 2004 expedition and has the advantage of going "light" above 14,200 ft (light still means carrying nearly all of your clothing and lots of food, along with a stove, pot, bivi sack, foam pad, and sleeping bag for the group). With the good weather forecast, I think that Frodo, Ben, and John have an excellent shot at summiting this week, which would mean less than 13 days since flying into Kahiltna base camp at 7200 ft.

Dr. D
 
Camp 14,3

I wish Frodo and the gang the best of luck. If the weather cooperates, I am sure they will have a good shot at the summit. Cranking to the top from 14,3 is quite a day, but if they are feeling well acclimatized, I would say go for it - you'll just rot hanging out at the Crow's Nest.

Here is an image from Washburn's Thumb looking down at Camp 14,3. Mt Hunter is in the distance, Kahiltna Glacier on the right.
 
No envy here...but lots of admiration and hoping for the best and safest of returns.
 
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