Hiking with Binoculars or a Spotting Scope

[Craig]

I’ve been thinking it might be cool on certain outing to carry a lightweight pair of binoculars or a spotting scope for viewing scenery, scoping out distance features such as slides or just hoping for some Swedish bikini models on a nearby ridge.

I haven’t owned a pair of binoculars in a while but from what I remember, it’s difficult to hold them steady enough to study something for any length of time.

I don’t know anything about spotting scopes but I think they’re used by bird watchers.

Is anyone out there carrying, that can recommend something for my use?
It would probably need to be waterproof, lightweight, small (relatively) and pretty rugged.
Also I would want something that would work without having to set it on a tripod to steady it.

 

[Tom Rankin]

Is anyone out there carrying, that can recommend something for my use? It would probably need to be waterproof, lightweight, small (relatively) and pretty rugged.

If you really want stable views, and you can afford it, check out a pair of image-stabilized binoculars. Canon has a pair that looks pretty small. We mostly carry a camera these days, and use it for a limited amount of magnification.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

I have a pair of Tasco 7x25 binocs, pretty light, pretty small. I use them for finding birds while fishing, and for Red Sox games if I get crappy seats. They are a handy, all-purpose pair so they don't excel at any one thing. I find, in general, that I never use them while hiking (and I rarely, if ever, see others with them), although I have brought them on a few occasions. Most pairs are hard to hold very still, for me anyway. Especially if breathing hard or bouncing around in a boat.

Tim

 

[Puck]

I go with 8x42 roof prisms...Swift, a company that is not around anymore. I would consider something smaller 7X32. I have a need for close focus and a wide and deep field of view.They are big and take up room but then again if I have them in the mountains I am doing a bird survey or census. Some of the small binocs I find to be useless for my needs. Anything smaller then what I have mentioned I miss a lot of birds.

I have a spotting scope an 80 but I have never thoght about bringing it up the mountains I use it for the shore or fields. I do not use this stuff for scenery just wildlife viewing. so my resonse may be useless to you.

 

[jniehof]

My usual buddy will often carry a monocular, which is pretty cool. I don't remember the specs on it.

I will very occasionally carry a 10x50 pair of binocs, which is really too much (but I bought them for astronomy). The higher the power (first number), the more every shake is magnified. The higher the aperture (second number), the heavier they are. 7x35 are nice "general purpose" binocs. What a larger aperture buys you, though, is a brighter image. (Depending on various factors, it may also buy you field of view.) For normal use a 7x20 probably doesn't lose you much besides weight. Good reference on binocular basics and exit pupil (what the aperture buys you.)

Holding bioncs "cross-arm" can help stabilize them, especially with larger pairs. If you want to hold the binocs with your right hand, reach into the middle and grab the right side of the left scope with your right hand. Rest the right scope on your right wrist. This can sometimes be more stable than using both hands, which just seems to double the shakes.

 

[TCD]

I always carry a monocular or binoculars. I use them for checking out cliffs, to see if they are worth the bushwhack. I go for light and cheap, because I don't need a lot of magnification or super clear images. You can probably get more focused advice (no pun intended) by giving an idea of your price range...WalMart, or Questar?

 

[DougPaul]

The general rule of thumb seems to be that one can hand-hold up to about 7 or 8 power. Anything more and it will get too shaky (ie some sort of steady support is required, eg a tripod). Higher power also reduces the field of view.

In daylight, a 20 mm or so objective lens is adequate. Anything larger (eg 35 or 50mm) is only helpful in low light. (You actually don't use the full area in bright light because your iris has closed down.) Larger objectives are heavier and make for a larger overall package.

If you get binoculars, it is probably worth getting a fairly decent pair. Both sides have to be aligned accurately or they will give you eyestrain. Not a problem with monoculars.

I have 7x20 Nikon binoculars (8 oz) and an 8x21 REI monocular (3 oz). Both work well for what they are. I generally carry the monocular unless I expect heavy use and then carry the binoculars (or both to have a loaner). So it all depends on whether you are content to watch the Swedish bikini models with one eye or require both eyes...

Doug

 

[Craig]

I was looking at a spotting scope, with interest, that was $180. So I guess I’m willing to pay a premium for something that’s going to give me clear views without the shake, if there is such an animal.

The image stabilizing binoculars looks interesting. Wonder if it really works? Probably don’t want to drop them tho.

The other part of the equation is, as my age increases my ability to focus distance decreases. I don’t know how that will effect my purchasing decision. I do know that the Swedish bikini models need to be crisp and clear.

 

[Mohamed Ellozy]

The image stabilizing binoculars looks interesting. Wonder if it really works?

I know nothing about binocs, but image stabilization works very well in my camera (at my age my hands shake quite a bit) even at high zoom.

 

[Tom Rankin]

The image stabilizing binoculars looks interesting. Wonder if it really works?

The only one that I used worked, very noticeably.

 

[DougPaul]

I was looking at a spotting scope, with interest, that was $180. So I guess I’m willing to pay a premium for something that’s going to give me clear views without the shake, if there is such an animal.

IMO, binoculars or a monocular are more practical for hiking than a spotting scope. (High power spotting scopes cannot be hand held very well.) And if those Swedish bikini models are far enough away that you need a high power spotting scope, haze will likely damage the view anyway...

The image stabilizing binoculars looks interesting. Wonder if it really works? Probably don’t want to drop them tho.

As others noted image stabilization (IS) works quite well in cameras, giving up to a factor of 8 in stabilization. A quick scan shows some IS binoculars with up to 18x (factor of ~2.5). A warning, however, IS lenses are heavy--the 18x binoculars are 42oz plus batteries (2xAA ~ 4 oz). http://www.opticsplanet.net/canon-18x50-is-aw.html

IS systems also contain motors and magnets--they can affect your compass.

The other part of the equation is, as my age increases my ability to focus distance decreases. I don’t know how that will effect my purchasing decision. I do know that the Swedish bikini models need to be crisp and clear.

The focus control also compensates for unable-to-focus eyes. It won't help with cataracts, macular degeneration, etc.

As I get older, I have more trouble with close distances. Didn't used to...

Doug

 

[TCD]

I don't think the IS could compensate for how badly my hands would start shaking when I finally got the Swedish girls in the field of view...

 

[Mohamed Ellozy]

As others noted image stabilization (IS) works quite well in cameras, giving up to a factor of 8 in stabilization. A quick scan shows some IS binoculars with up to 18x (factor of ~2.5). A warning, however, IS lenses are heavy--the 18x binoculars are 42oz plus batteries (2xAA ~ 4 oz). http://www.opticsplanet.net/canon-18x50-is-aw.html

Good point ... even the 8×25 weighs 17.3 oz, excluding the CR123A battery.

 

[Mohamed Ellozy]

I don't think the IS could compensate for how badly my hands would start shaking when I finally got the Swedish girls in the field of view...

In that case I guess that you need a tripod

 

[NewHampshire]

Try mating this with a set of binoculars. I use this hunting (well, not this brand, but the same idea) and it works really well. What it does is, when you raise the bincoulars up the straps put downward pressure while you push upward offering physical stabilization to reduce wobble.

Brian

 

[Jazzbo]

My usual buddy will often carry a monocular, which is pretty cool. I don't remember the specs on it.

I will very occasionally carry a 10x50 pair of binocs, which is really too much (but I bought them for astronomy). The higher the power (first number), the more every shake is magnified. The higher the aperture (second number), the heavier they are. 7x35 are nice "general purpose" binocs. What a larger aperture buys you, though, is a brighter image. (Depending on various factors, it may also buy you field of view.) For normal use a 7x20 probably doesn't lose you much besides weight. Good reference on binocular basics and exit pupil (what the aperture buys you.)

Holding bioncs "cross-arm" can help stabilize them, especially with larger pairs. If you want to hold the binocs with your right hand, reach into the middle and grab the right side of the left scope with your right hand. Rest the right scope on your right wrist. This can sometimes be more stable than using both hands, which just seems to double the shakes.

I agree with Jniehoff. 7x35 is good gen purpose binocular spec. It magnifies and 35mm is wide enough lense to work well in low light (good for wildlife viewing). Something rugged like this Nikon is relative low cost, but does weigh 1.76 LB. Somewhat more than these IS binoculars, but you can buy it for under $100 if you shop around. You will want rugged version if you're going to cart it around in your pack.

http://www.opticsplanet.net/nikon-7x35-action-extreme-binoculars-7237.html

 

[sardog1]

I've used binos for many years and sold binos and scopes for several years as well. You can find thousands of opinions on these subjects, so what could one more hurt?

1. Hie thyself to a bricks'n'mortar or bricks'n'clicks retailer who sells several brands. No one, not any of us, not your spouse/partner/parent, can tell you what pair of binos will work best for your facial structure and your eyes. You really need to put them up to your eyes and try them for a good while before knowing which one is best for you. Unless you're replacing a pair that you already own, buying binos over the Internet is a crap shoot at best and a fool's errand at worst.

2. Choose a time for visiting the store when the staff will have the time to help you. You're going to want to try several pair, ask lots of questions, and contemplate your choices. This is not something to attempt on a busy weekend day -- go on a weekday if you can. If the lot is fairly empty when you arrive, you picked the right time.

3. A scope is used by serious birders or by hunters for long range, long period study of distant animals. You don't want to lug one into the mountains unless your objective is the same. Buy a pair of binos instead.

4. Monoculars are interesting until you actually try to use one for any period of time. Stay the hell away from them.

5. NewHampshire has given some very good advice on a cheap alternative to expensive, heavy IS systems. (Yes, I know how wonderful IS can be. But it ain't fun paying for and lugging around.) Buy the Nikon harness or a similar arrangement. Some hunting backpacks come equipped with hooks on the shoulder strap that do the same. And you will quickly learn that any pair of binos worth carrying is a pain in the neck if they're on a neck strap for any period of time. Get a chest harness of some type.

 

[Puck]

Try mating this with a set of binoculars. I use this hunting (well, not this brand, but the same idea) and it works really well. What it does is, when you raise the bincoulars up the straps put downward pressure while you push upward offering physical stabilization to reduce wobble.

Brian

Great point. I also use this type of harness and I got one for my wife. It puts the weight on your shoulders not on your neck. The harness also keeps the binoc close to body. I yo are going up a scramble on all fours the last thing you need is you rbinoc swinging away meeting every rock on the way up.

BTW where is this Mountain with Scandinavians? I think it may be on the southern AT. That is why the SC Governor likes to hike.

 

[Adk_dib]

I tried a "mono" when I first started hiking but traded it in for a "Bi", didn't like the image. I only take the binoc on smaller hikes because I do not want the added weight on the big ones. besides, on the high peaks you get all the views you need.

 

[DougPaul]

I tried a "mono" when I first started hiking but traded it in for a "Bi", didn't like the image. I only take the binoc on smaller hikes because I do not want the added weight on the big ones. besides, on the high peaks you get all the views you need.

I carry the monocular for trips where I don't expect heavy use. IMO, it is fine for occasional use. If I expect heavy use (eg birding, ocean sailing), then I will bring the binoculars.

Its a size and weight vs utility trade-off.

Doug