Ice Axe and Adams

[percious]

I am planning a trip up Adams in late February. Our current plan is to take Valley Way up to the Valley Way Campsite, set up a base camp there, then hike Adams and/or Madison the next day before returning to camp and either hiking out, or staying a second night.

My question is this. How difficult is this route? Will it require an Ixe Axe? Is there significant exposure increasing risk caused by a fall? I think the goal of this trip is to remain lean and mean, which means we must analyze the validity of every piece of gear.

-percious

 

[David Metsky]

I've never felt any need for an ice axe on the Valley Way. Once on the Adams summit cone there are a few place where you might want to have one, but I've never felt that it was an absolute must.

Having said that, you don't always end up where you were planning on going. A variety of mistakes or choices could push you into the Great Gulf or King Ravine. I would consider it a piece of safety equipment and would hesitate to head up there on an overnight without an axe, though I have done it in the past.

-dave-

 

[Jim lombard]

I agree with Dave, bring the axe. Most of the routes are simple walk-ups. From the col the only steep trail I remember is Star lake.

 

[spider solo]

I was up there (Adams) the other day crusty icy snow as far as you could see. Above tree line it was a day for crampons and ice axe. Madison looked the tricker of the two. Adams is a bit more "user friendly" to my way of thinking. Another fellow went over to Jefferson you can see the write up under Trail Conditions.
Of course can't predict the future but...so far it is a year of crampons and ice axes.

 

[BrentD22]

i like an ice axe on Adams...

I have not used the route you are using, but I do like bringing a ice axe up Adams for the reason's that Dave gave as well as an ice axe having other survival uses. It's also useful near the summit/above tree line where there are some steep sections with no hand holds.

Other uses for an ice axe...

- To help pull out of a spruce trap
- Lost tent stake

I'm know of others...

Anyone have any other uses?

 

[percious]

Anyone have any other uses?

Victory beer opener.

 

[Mike P.]

Clear ice out of the neck of my Nalgene or 32 ounce wide mouth soda bottle

Wedged snowshoe under ice & snow & next to rock & could not pull my foot & snowshoe out on CM trail in April. Ice Axe made short work of snow & ice.

 

[bcskier]

The adze on my axe has been successfully used to slice frozen pepperoni at the Panther Gorge Leanto when temps were in the double digits below zero.

 

[Pucknuts61]

There really are uses for them???

I always thought they were just to look cool in pictures!

We're heading up to Adams Saturday, I'll try to post a report late Saturday night or Sunday morning to let you know, but I am bringing mine anyway.

I think the Star Lake trail would be the most difficult way and we'll just hike along the Gulfside and drop the packs at Thunderstorm Junction...if we make it that far.

 

[Peakbagr]

I've heard it said that if the route you're taking is best done carrying an ice axe, than its a pretty good idea to learn how to use it before you need to to.

 

[David Metsky]

I've heard it said that if the route you're taking is best done carrying an ice axe, than its a pretty good idea to learn how to use it before you need to to.

This deserves repeating. Otherwise, the axe is just three more sharp things, waiting to stab you.

-dave-

 

[stoopid]

What, besides an axe, are some of the other tools used by people who ice climb? (and why do they use them, as opposed to just using the axe and crampons like many hikers do)

 

[David Metsky]

What, besides an axe, are some of the other tools used by people who ice climb? (and why do they use them, as opposed to just using the axe and crampons like many hikers do)

Ice climbing on vertical ice is a much different beast than mountaineering over potentially steep and icy, but walkable terrain.

In mountaineering, you are using the crampon mostly flat on the hiking surface, occasionally using the front points to climb sections. In ice climbing you are using the front points almost exclusively, which is why you want much stiffer boots and solid crampons to transfer the load from your toes to your whole foot.

A mountaineering axe is mainly for self-arrest or self-belay, and as a pseudo walking stick. It's fairly long and has a blade what will stop you while sliding. Ice climbing tools (they aren't always called axes) are designed to be swung over your head into vertical ice, and stick, allowing you to pull yourself up without the tool pulling out or damaging the ice so much that it cracks. They are shorter, usually with a curved shaft to facilitate swinging angles, and have a variety of pick blade styles, sometimes with interchangable picks. Ice climbers carry two of them.

Ice climbers also have a variety of protection tools, ascenders, ropes, and belay tools, but for the most part they move up the vertical ice with crampon front points and two ice tools.

-dave-

 

[iceclimber]

I
Other uses for an ice axe...

- To help pull out of a spruce trap
- Lost tent stake

I'm know of others...

Anyone have any other uses?

How about the most obvious reason why we use them: SELF ARREST.
It's amazing a whole thread on ice axes can be talked about, and not
a single mention of self arrest.

Kevin, if you are ready to jump into the next obvious winter obsession, yes I am talking about ice climbing, I have plenty of videos for you to watch.

- iceclimber chrix

 

[percious]

iceclimber... you may want to look at the post above yours. It does mention self arrest. And that is what I carry my ice axe for mostly. Oh, and it does work well as a break for butt-sliding.

-chris

 

[Pucknuts61]

Sorry to upset you Iceclimber.
The thread included "other" uses, so we were just having some fun.
I bring mine purley as a safety device...specifically for self arrest, and I hope that I never have to use it.

 

[David Metsky]

How about the most obvious reason why we use them: SELF ARREST.
It's amazing a whole thread on ice axes can be talked about, and not
a single mention of self arrest.

I think the assumption was that the main reason for bringing the axe was self-arrest. Everything in the thread was predicated on that. Since there is little (but not no) terrain on the standard routes to Adams that could require self-arrest, people were giving other suggestions for why one might want to bring an axe.

The self-arrest issue was implied IMO by the question, so I didn't feel the need to reiterate it.

-dave-

 

[stoopid]

Kevin, if you are ready to jump into the next obvious winter obsession, yes I am talking about ice climbing, I have plenty of videos for you to watch.

I may some day. I saw Touching the Void after all, so I know the dangers (and why I should still want to do it puzzles me ).

My opinion has been that without the rest of the gear, the axe alone isn't enough to really make a difference. However, as percious has explained in private, when hiking in the Whites more than the Adirondacks you have long stretches of ice on the bare rock summits. Should I slide it would be nice to stop (on my own, not when I hit tree line at 50 mph).

Believe it or not, in a day I have changed my opinion on this piece of gear and may just end up getting one for the winter climbs. Depends on cost and weight, off to EMS I go!

I'll need to learn how to use it, but first I need an axe.

 

[percious]

If I may make a recommendation! The BD Raven [Pro] is a really nice axe. My friend bought one, and I am envious. I bought an ice-axe crampon combo, so I didnt have a lot of axes to choose from. Mine works, but its not as light, but the price was right. The raven fits nicely in your hand for self arrest position (and self belay) and it is light. I can also recommend you buy as long as ice axe you can find. Since it is going to be used for mountaineering approaches, it works best like a cane, and for that you will want it long. Mine is too short, and I end up looking like an old man bending over while hiking with it. They will recommend you have it come up to your mid-thigh, which is good for technical climbing. For me, this is too short. Anyone else have an opinion on ice axe length for mountaineering?

-percious

 

[Pucknuts61]

Hi Percious,
You should hold the ax in your hand from the T-head, then measure about 4" off the ground to the tip. The reason is that while you're hiking uphill, you are bending at the waist slightly and the ax can be used to assist you. This way you can use it like a trekking pole, only with a little more security and can dig into the ice a whole lot better. Plus if you are hiking with your ax, then it's probably more of an serious incline and in icy conditions than you would be when using a trekking pole, so it does help with security. I've seen more trekking poles bent than ice axes!