Ice Axe and Adams

[DougPaul]

> I can also recommend you buy as long as ice axe you can find.

I would like to offer a differing viewpoint:

For typical hiking/mountaineering in the NE, a length a few inches shy of reaching the ground when held dangling from the hand is best (a "mountaineering axe")--typically about 70cm. The time when you really need the axe is on steep ground, at which point it will reach the ground (usually snow). A longer axe makes self-arrest more difficult and the spike can catch in the snow and the axe can be ripped from your hands. The longer axe is also more awkward to use on steepish terrain (eg Lion's Head). This length is also good for ice climbing (or occasional ice climbing style moves) on easy to moderate terrain. (55cm axes and shorter are designed for steep ice climbing.) If you want extra support walking on low angle trails, use ski poles.

At the absolute most, you will want an axe that reaches the ground plus an inch or two (a "walking axe"). This length suffers from the problems mentioned above. I recommend the mountaineering length, even for hikers.

Exception: A longer axe can be useful for glacier travel where the length will reduce the amount of bending over required for crevasse probing.

Axes are also used for occasional step chopping (it used to be the primary purpose before crampons were available--axes used to be up to 2m long!). The light-weight axes, while nicer to carry, do not cut steps as well as a standard weight (steel head) axe. Similarly, aluminum head axes are not strong enough to cut steps in hard water ice.

I sometimes carry both a 70cm axe and 3-section adjustable poles--the unused poles or axe can be conviently carried on one's pack.

Doug

 

[ThisBudsforMe]

Self Arrest

I attended a course last year that included learning how to self arrest but unfortunately have not practiced since. Any recommendations on easy access hills were I can practice these skills? How often (if at all) do folks normally test their self arrest skills?

 

[BrentD22]

hence why I asked "other uses"

How about the most obvious reason why we use them: SELF ARREST.
It's amazing a whole thread on ice axes can be talked about, and not
a single mention of self arrest.


- iceclimber chrix

We understand the 1st use of a ice axe (self arrest) and hopefully we have been trained and practice the technique. While hiking it's a really good idea to find multiple uses for your equipment and that was the intention of my question of finding other uses.

 

[Peakbagr]

Here's one brief thread on ice axes. http://www.vftt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1420.

There was a really good one that I could not locate. Lots of contributors and uses of axes in addition to their primary use for a safe self-arrest.
I contributed to the the thread I'm referring to and here's a few from memory:

Break ice on pond or stream to obtain water for boiling.
Use as a portable handrail on trails.
Use the head to reach up above you to hook onto a rock or embed the head to pull you up a steep spot.
Do the same in reverse to assist you down a steep spot.
Makes a good tent peg in icy or hard snow.
The point was excellent to locate the top of buried summit cannisters by the "tap" or "clink" sound (depending on the era the cannister was constructed).
Good tool to tap a frozen cannister lid.
Wonderful spruce trap extricators(hook the adz over the base of a spruce outside the trap and pull).
Great to knock snow off the branches of snow laden trees in front of you so the snow doesn't fall on you and melt. You can develop a rhythm of flicking the axe upward so the side of the shaft by the tip comes up on the underside of the branch and the knocks the snow bomb down in front of you.
Makes an excellent "3rd hand" for extra balance on steep ups and downs.
With the tip in the snow, the head of the axe makes a good chin rest for taking a break on lung-busting sections of ascents.
The tip can make a good rudder and decelerator for butt glissades.
The tip is handy for touching things you don't want to touch with your hands.

And, if you know how to use it, can be used to arrest a slide.

 

[stoopid]

I purchased a shorter 60cm black diamond today, thinking is/was to save size/weight for packing. I don't actually intend on using it, so if I do it will be there but otherwise I expect it to remain dangling from the loop.

Only on the steepest icy sections I've ever hiked have I thought "hey, I could use a little something here". Once up/down that section I didn't need it again. So having a 70cm axe is kinda a waste if I don't intend on hiking with it for any distance.

 

[Peakbagr]

You should get out and practice with it. Go to a golf course hill after we get a good snowfall on the ground and then let it ice up. Or, go to one of the really good sledding hills in a park or golfcourse. Let the kids really slick it up. Then, wearing rain pants and jacket, start practicing. The idea of the rain or wind suit is that you want to be as slippery as a teflon frying pan so you'll get up a good head of steam down the slope. Pick up a book that has a chapter on self-arrests. Then, start doing them on your stomach, feet first. Then, on your back feet first. Work up gradually. Move to head first on your back, then head first on your stomach, then on your back. Each slide has its own move on how to get the pick into the snow/ice without doing damage to your face(the head of the axe is tucked up right next to your cheek), not doing an "eggbeater", and getting used to just the right amount of pressure from the pick to start slowing you down.
Lots of folks carry an ice axe. Many don't know how to use it. That OK until you really need it and then you're screwed.

 

[stoopid]

You should get out and practice with it. Go to a golf course hill after we get a good snowfall on the ground and then let it ice up. Or, go to one of the really good sledding hills in a park or golfcourse. Let the kids really slick it up. Then, wearing rain pants and jacket, start practicing. The idea of the rain or wind suit is that you want to be as slippery as a teflon frying pan so you'll get up a good head of steam down the slope. Pick up a book that has a chapter on self-arrests. Then, start doing them on your stomach, feet first. Then, on your back feet first. Work up gradually. Move to head first on your back, then head first on your stomach, then on your back. Each slide has its own move on how to get the pick into the snow/ice without doing damage to your face(the head of the axe is tucked up right next to your cheek), not doing an "eggbeater", and getting used to just the right amount of pressure from the pick to start slowing you down.
Lots of folks carry an ice axe. Many don't know how to use it. That OK until you really need it and then you're screwed.

Thanks!

There really aren't any decent hills around here (in the city of Albany), so I'm thinking of doing my homework between now and my next peak hike, then early into the ascent using a 'safe' stretch to practice on.

 

[Peakbagr]

Take a look at the Albany Muni gold golf course, Bethlehem Town Park and Normanside Country Club sledding hills.