brobichaud
Member
Delicatessen; a German loanword which first appeared in English in the late 19th century, the plural of Delikatesse. The German form was lent from the French délicatesse, which itself was lent from Italian delicatezza, from delicato, of which the root word is the Latin adjective delicatus, meaning "giving pleasure, delightful, pleasing".
First post in a long time, and it's a doozy.
Over the last ~15 years, I've walked widely through the White Mountains, learning their contours, and becoming a student of their history. In that time, it's been hard not to notice the pattern of usage, that peaks are what matter to the hiking population at large, while the valleys are just the means of egress to the higher ground. The Weeks Act of 1911, authorized purchase of forest lands in the East, not for the protection of peaks, but for the protection of watersheds, and the forests in them. In 2019, I figured why not pay tribute to that, and lashed together a route through the White Mountains, hitting all the major watersheds/drainages along the way. The added rub, was that the route could hit no peaks, and never cross or repeat itself, with the exception of "spurs" to views or campsites. My friend, Ron, could never remember the word Direttissima, when he was grumbling about hikers and their crazy projects, so he always referred to it as a Delicatessen. Thank you Ron, for giving this thing a proper name, because it lived up to its definition, and never failed to get a smile from people along the way.
In the 5 years since cooking up this hare-brained scheme, I finished red-lining/tracing/hiking the guidebook a second time, did a couple of small 150-300 mile thru-hikes, and hiked/ran myself into injury. Nearly two months without any significant effort, was about the worst prep for a thru-hike one can imagine. The originally planned route, involved some not insignificant bushwhacks, and more than a few ups and downs to get in and out of valleys. I threw that business out on the first day, and cobbled the rest of it together on the fly, still ending up at my intended destination.
What follows, is a CliffsNotes love letter to the White Mountains, which have given me a lifetimes worth of adventures, with more yet to come.
Day 1: Mill Brook Road to Sylvan campsite
20.8 miles, 3252' gain
Unknown Pond Trail, roadwalks (York Pond Road, FR 8010), bushwhack, Bog Dam Road, Pond of Safety Trail/snomo, Four Soldiers Path, Ledge Trail, Durand Road, Bee Line, Valley Way, Maple Walk, Sylvan Way
Out of work at 2:30am, to my friend Fawn's house by 4, who then dropped me at the northern Unknown Pond trailhead before 5:30. Phew! After a fashion, I started up the trail by headlamp, feeling pretty decent under a 6 day load. All quiet up to the pond, where I saw the first of many runners doing the Kilkenny Ridge Race. Down the other side, I began to consider the route ahead, not particularly wanting to be on the course. I ended up scrapping the bushwhack, and cutting through to Bog Dam Road, though that was a scrappy 0.7 in its own right... but I saw a lady moose in there, so I took that as a good omen for the trip. The "abandoned" Pond of Safety Trail was really great, though if it hadn't been so dry, I can see it getting pretty messy. Instead of stopping near noontime and finding a place to camp, I kept going, figuring I'd find something outside of Appalachia. Four Soldiers was lightly trodden and beautiful, and I soon ended up at Lookout Ledge for a break. Steeply down to Durand Lake, I crossed Route 2, visited Snyder Brook, and found a spot to hang my hammock and food for the night.
Day 2: Sylvan campsite to The Bluff
12.8 miles, 4717' gain
Sylvan Way, The Link, Caps Ridge Trail, The Cornice, Gulfside Trail, Sphinx Trail, Great Gulf Trail
Not a particularly early start, but the day was "short", so I figured it would be fine. I was wrong. For one, The Link isn't particularly backpacker friendly, especially between Castle and Caps. My own fitness came into play, and I was just plain slow. I found myself cursing whoever it was that put this thing together, considering what lay ahead. It was a beautiful day, especially above treeline, and I took advantage of my slowness, enjoying the grasses along The Cornice. Sphinx was a joy as well, though I'm not sure it did my right knee any favors descending it. Quite rough going on Great Gulf down to The Bluff, where I got set up, and enjoyed dinner on the boulder. Chatted with a guy named John, who was checking out the campsite near dusk, and was very interested in what I was doing. All quiet, but for the river down the slope.
Day 3: The Bluff to Moriah Brook campsite
21.6 miles, 3590' gain
Great Gulf Trail, Great Gulf Link, roadwalks (through Dolly Copp, Pinkham B, Rt. 16, side streets in Gorham, Rt. 2), Rattle River Trail, Carter-Moriah Trail, Moriah Brook Trail
Started getting into the rhythm, up in the dark, start in the dark, greet the day as light slowly creeps into the forest. One of my favorite times of day. Out to Dolly Copp around sunrise, then pounded 9 miles of pavement to Rattle River. It wasn't unenjoyable at all, and I was offered 5 rides (thanks Kimberly!), all of which I refused. Had some good reminiscences on the AT, and chatted with a thru-hiker named Gravy, who was just smashing ham and cheese into his face on one of the ledge outcrops. Dropped down my adopted Moriah Brook Trail, made it down to my favorite campsite, and settled in for the night. Completely forgot it was a full/near full moon, and awoke with a start to a bright light shining into the foot of my hammock. Fumbling for my glasses, thinking that this might be how I get abducted, I got a good laugh once I figured it out.
Day 4: Moriah Brook campsite to Miles Brook campsite
18.8 miles, 2845' gain
Moriah Brook Trail, Highwater Trail, bushwhack, Wild River Trail, Wild River Road, Burnt Mill Brook Trail, Royce Trail, Royce Connector, East Royce Trail, Route 113, Haystack Notch Trail, Miles Notch Trail
The quietest day of the trip, and I'd expect nothing less of this area. Pre-dawn cruising down Moriah Brook, where I decided against the "trail" route at the bottom, and whacked down to the river, finding a dry crossing. Intercepted an old skid road on the other side, and followed it into the logging camp clearing on Wild River Trail. Made quick work of the road, and climbed stiffly up Burnt Mill Brook, enjoying the glades at the top, and in the col between the Royces. Ran into the only people of the day on their way up East Royce, and headed down 113 to the infamous Haystack Notch Trail. Of all the times I've done this trail, never once have I known I was on trail the entire time, until now. It's a favorite anyway, but the trail is in great shape, and has seen a lot of recent maintenance. Still has disintegrated bog bridging in spots, but you can actually stay on it! Walked up toward Miles Notch, and found a spot near a confluence of some branches of Miles Brook.
Day 5: Miles Brook campsite to East Branch Saco Dam
25.8 miles, 3825' gain
Miles Notch Trail, roadwalks (Hut Road, Adams Road, Deer Hill Road), Shell Pond Trail, Shell Pond Road, Leach Link Trail, Deer Hills Trail, roadwalks (Route 113, Barnes Road), Bradley Brook Trail/snomo, Slippery Brook Trail, roadwalks (Slippery Brook Road, East Branch Road)
Lots more roads, but they were scenic, low traffic, and not all paved. Miles Notch was calm and dim in the dawn hour, and was a pleasant start to the day. Right knee issues persisted on the roads, it had become swollen, noticeably so, and would continue to be until the conclusion of the trip. I'd hoped to take a swim and soak it, at the dam on the Cold River... but I was foiled, as there was next to no water behind it. While taking a break at the Baldface trailhead, a guy told me I looked tired. No s%#t buddy. Was nice to get off the pavement, even if I traded it for dirt. Bradley Brook corridor was a great way to cut through to the East Branch country, and wasn't too overgrown. Crossed my fingers hard, hoping the roadside campsite I wanted was going to be unoccupied, and I was rewarded! Set up at the dam, right in the corridor of the former East Branch Railroad (and abandoned section of East Branch Trail). I was able to soak my insolent knee, and had another quiet night, only one car passing by to the next site.
Day 6: East Branch Saco Dam to Hermit Lake
18.8 miles, 4866' gain
East Branch Road, Bald Land Trail, roadwalks (Black Mountain Road, Dundee Road, Moody Farm Road, Carter Notch Road), Halls Ledge Trail, Route 16, Tuckerman Ravine Trail
It was a beautiful morning on the side roads of Jackson, as I made my way towards further weight on my back. About a week before my trip, I dropped a box off at Pinkham Notch, with a full 10 days of food in it, and I hadn't even figured out whether or not it was all going to fit! Plus, it was my only resupply package of the outing. The walk up to Pinkham on 16 wasn't that fun, but the views were good, and the traffic fairly light. Thankfully, I'd packed an extra food bag, so when I retrieved my package, I was able to split things up to where everything fit, barely. I threw the pack up on the scale, and it tipped over somewhere between 46 and 47 pounds. Ouch. Much to my surprise, it didn't carry badly, and I ground my way up to Hermit Lake with minimal complaint. As I settled in, there was a change in the weather happening, and I'd be out in it the next day.
Continued...
First post in a long time, and it's a doozy.
Over the last ~15 years, I've walked widely through the White Mountains, learning their contours, and becoming a student of their history. In that time, it's been hard not to notice the pattern of usage, that peaks are what matter to the hiking population at large, while the valleys are just the means of egress to the higher ground. The Weeks Act of 1911, authorized purchase of forest lands in the East, not for the protection of peaks, but for the protection of watersheds, and the forests in them. In 2019, I figured why not pay tribute to that, and lashed together a route through the White Mountains, hitting all the major watersheds/drainages along the way. The added rub, was that the route could hit no peaks, and never cross or repeat itself, with the exception of "spurs" to views or campsites. My friend, Ron, could never remember the word Direttissima, when he was grumbling about hikers and their crazy projects, so he always referred to it as a Delicatessen. Thank you Ron, for giving this thing a proper name, because it lived up to its definition, and never failed to get a smile from people along the way.
In the 5 years since cooking up this hare-brained scheme, I finished red-lining/tracing/hiking the guidebook a second time, did a couple of small 150-300 mile thru-hikes, and hiked/ran myself into injury. Nearly two months without any significant effort, was about the worst prep for a thru-hike one can imagine. The originally planned route, involved some not insignificant bushwhacks, and more than a few ups and downs to get in and out of valleys. I threw that business out on the first day, and cobbled the rest of it together on the fly, still ending up at my intended destination.
What follows, is a CliffsNotes love letter to the White Mountains, which have given me a lifetimes worth of adventures, with more yet to come.
Day 1: Mill Brook Road to Sylvan campsite
20.8 miles, 3252' gain
Unknown Pond Trail, roadwalks (York Pond Road, FR 8010), bushwhack, Bog Dam Road, Pond of Safety Trail/snomo, Four Soldiers Path, Ledge Trail, Durand Road, Bee Line, Valley Way, Maple Walk, Sylvan Way
Out of work at 2:30am, to my friend Fawn's house by 4, who then dropped me at the northern Unknown Pond trailhead before 5:30. Phew! After a fashion, I started up the trail by headlamp, feeling pretty decent under a 6 day load. All quiet up to the pond, where I saw the first of many runners doing the Kilkenny Ridge Race. Down the other side, I began to consider the route ahead, not particularly wanting to be on the course. I ended up scrapping the bushwhack, and cutting through to Bog Dam Road, though that was a scrappy 0.7 in its own right... but I saw a lady moose in there, so I took that as a good omen for the trip. The "abandoned" Pond of Safety Trail was really great, though if it hadn't been so dry, I can see it getting pretty messy. Instead of stopping near noontime and finding a place to camp, I kept going, figuring I'd find something outside of Appalachia. Four Soldiers was lightly trodden and beautiful, and I soon ended up at Lookout Ledge for a break. Steeply down to Durand Lake, I crossed Route 2, visited Snyder Brook, and found a spot to hang my hammock and food for the night.
Day 2: Sylvan campsite to The Bluff
12.8 miles, 4717' gain
Sylvan Way, The Link, Caps Ridge Trail, The Cornice, Gulfside Trail, Sphinx Trail, Great Gulf Trail
Not a particularly early start, but the day was "short", so I figured it would be fine. I was wrong. For one, The Link isn't particularly backpacker friendly, especially between Castle and Caps. My own fitness came into play, and I was just plain slow. I found myself cursing whoever it was that put this thing together, considering what lay ahead. It was a beautiful day, especially above treeline, and I took advantage of my slowness, enjoying the grasses along The Cornice. Sphinx was a joy as well, though I'm not sure it did my right knee any favors descending it. Quite rough going on Great Gulf down to The Bluff, where I got set up, and enjoyed dinner on the boulder. Chatted with a guy named John, who was checking out the campsite near dusk, and was very interested in what I was doing. All quiet, but for the river down the slope.
Day 3: The Bluff to Moriah Brook campsite
21.6 miles, 3590' gain
Great Gulf Trail, Great Gulf Link, roadwalks (through Dolly Copp, Pinkham B, Rt. 16, side streets in Gorham, Rt. 2), Rattle River Trail, Carter-Moriah Trail, Moriah Brook Trail
Started getting into the rhythm, up in the dark, start in the dark, greet the day as light slowly creeps into the forest. One of my favorite times of day. Out to Dolly Copp around sunrise, then pounded 9 miles of pavement to Rattle River. It wasn't unenjoyable at all, and I was offered 5 rides (thanks Kimberly!), all of which I refused. Had some good reminiscences on the AT, and chatted with a thru-hiker named Gravy, who was just smashing ham and cheese into his face on one of the ledge outcrops. Dropped down my adopted Moriah Brook Trail, made it down to my favorite campsite, and settled in for the night. Completely forgot it was a full/near full moon, and awoke with a start to a bright light shining into the foot of my hammock. Fumbling for my glasses, thinking that this might be how I get abducted, I got a good laugh once I figured it out.
Day 4: Moriah Brook campsite to Miles Brook campsite
18.8 miles, 2845' gain
Moriah Brook Trail, Highwater Trail, bushwhack, Wild River Trail, Wild River Road, Burnt Mill Brook Trail, Royce Trail, Royce Connector, East Royce Trail, Route 113, Haystack Notch Trail, Miles Notch Trail
The quietest day of the trip, and I'd expect nothing less of this area. Pre-dawn cruising down Moriah Brook, where I decided against the "trail" route at the bottom, and whacked down to the river, finding a dry crossing. Intercepted an old skid road on the other side, and followed it into the logging camp clearing on Wild River Trail. Made quick work of the road, and climbed stiffly up Burnt Mill Brook, enjoying the glades at the top, and in the col between the Royces. Ran into the only people of the day on their way up East Royce, and headed down 113 to the infamous Haystack Notch Trail. Of all the times I've done this trail, never once have I known I was on trail the entire time, until now. It's a favorite anyway, but the trail is in great shape, and has seen a lot of recent maintenance. Still has disintegrated bog bridging in spots, but you can actually stay on it! Walked up toward Miles Notch, and found a spot near a confluence of some branches of Miles Brook.
Day 5: Miles Brook campsite to East Branch Saco Dam
25.8 miles, 3825' gain
Miles Notch Trail, roadwalks (Hut Road, Adams Road, Deer Hill Road), Shell Pond Trail, Shell Pond Road, Leach Link Trail, Deer Hills Trail, roadwalks (Route 113, Barnes Road), Bradley Brook Trail/snomo, Slippery Brook Trail, roadwalks (Slippery Brook Road, East Branch Road)
Lots more roads, but they were scenic, low traffic, and not all paved. Miles Notch was calm and dim in the dawn hour, and was a pleasant start to the day. Right knee issues persisted on the roads, it had become swollen, noticeably so, and would continue to be until the conclusion of the trip. I'd hoped to take a swim and soak it, at the dam on the Cold River... but I was foiled, as there was next to no water behind it. While taking a break at the Baldface trailhead, a guy told me I looked tired. No s%#t buddy. Was nice to get off the pavement, even if I traded it for dirt. Bradley Brook corridor was a great way to cut through to the East Branch country, and wasn't too overgrown. Crossed my fingers hard, hoping the roadside campsite I wanted was going to be unoccupied, and I was rewarded! Set up at the dam, right in the corridor of the former East Branch Railroad (and abandoned section of East Branch Trail). I was able to soak my insolent knee, and had another quiet night, only one car passing by to the next site.
Day 6: East Branch Saco Dam to Hermit Lake
18.8 miles, 4866' gain
East Branch Road, Bald Land Trail, roadwalks (Black Mountain Road, Dundee Road, Moody Farm Road, Carter Notch Road), Halls Ledge Trail, Route 16, Tuckerman Ravine Trail
It was a beautiful morning on the side roads of Jackson, as I made my way towards further weight on my back. About a week before my trip, I dropped a box off at Pinkham Notch, with a full 10 days of food in it, and I hadn't even figured out whether or not it was all going to fit! Plus, it was my only resupply package of the outing. The walk up to Pinkham on 16 wasn't that fun, but the views were good, and the traffic fairly light. Thankfully, I'd packed an extra food bag, so when I retrieved my package, I was able to split things up to where everything fit, barely. I threw the pack up on the scale, and it tipped over somewhere between 46 and 47 pounds. Ouch. Much to my surprise, it didn't carry badly, and I ground my way up to Hermit Lake with minimal complaint. As I settled in, there was a change in the weather happening, and I'd be out in it the next day.
Continued...
