Kayak Car Roof Rack Question

[jfb]

Interesting info. Thanks. I didn't even realize cross bars came in different widths. I assumed it was a "standard" size. I guess that's my first blunder already: I'm having the Subaru dealership cross bars (I think Thule) installed THU and I don't know what length the are. Guess I'll know soon enough.

This car looks like it has factory crossbars: https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for...1=SUB&modelCode1=SUBCRSSTRK&clickType=listing

 

[jfb]

One more thing to worry about. If you have a sunroof, be sure that whatever crossbars you get don't interfere with the sunroof.

 

[TCD]

And one more thing: check for interference with you radio antenna. My 2015 Forester has the older radio antenna which is flexible and also removable, so it can easily be folded down or removed to avoid interference with a roof load. My 2018 Forester has the rigid "dorsal fin" antenna (which I think is associated with satellite radio). The rigid dorsal fin cannot be removed or folded down, so you have to watch for interference if you have that kind of antenna.

 

[DayTrip]

No sunroof so good there. I do have the short stubby dorsal antenna though so I'll have to see on that, although I almost never listen to the actual radio when I'm driving. Stream everything on my phone.

 

[Jazzbo]

I thought I would add photos of our Thule rack installation on 2018 Subaru Crosstrek as it might help others in selecting crossbars. See photo below of 60" (153 cm) Thule Aero bar. Note the mounting bracket for mounting the Hullivator is mounted on the Aero bar and stays there all the time.

The next photo shows the Hullivator installed. It only takes a few minutes once you get the hang of it. Note how it sticks out quite a bit and would definitely pose a hazard to pedestrians in parking lots.

Here it is in the down position for loading your kayak. Thule recommends minimum 3" clearance with car body. Our installation has 10" clearance. We could easily accommodate 53" Aero bar and still maintain 7" clearance. We would still have problem of Hullivator sticking out too far with 53" crossbar, but I would like to leave room on crossbar to strap the 2nd boat flat. I prefer mounting boat flat mount versus J-racks which are PITA in my opinion. J-rack enables mounting boats tilted to deal with narrow crossbars. I've even seen three boats mounted on cars using three J-racks.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

I can put two boats and two bikes on my roof with a single J rack (hullaport). Flat might be easier but it’s also easy to strap too tightly and deform the boat.

Tim

 

[DayTrip]

I thought I would add photos of our Thule rack installation on 2018 Subaru Crosstrek as it might help others in selecting crossbars. See photo below of 60" (153 cm) Thule Aero bar. Note the mounting bracket for mounting the Hullivator is mounted on the Aero bar and stays there all the time.

The next photo shows the Hullivator installed. It only takes a few minutes once you get the hang of it. Note how it sticks out quite a bit and would definitely pose a hazard to pedestrians in parking lots.

Here it is in the down position for loading your kayak. Thule recommends minimum 3" clearance with car body. Our installation has 10" clearance. We could easily accommodate 53" Aero bar and still maintain 7" clearance. We would still have problem of Hullivator sticking out too far with 53" crossbar, but I would like to leave room on crossbar to strap the 2nd boat flat. I prefer mounting boat flat mount versus J-racks which are PITA in my opinion. J-rack enables mounting boats tilted to deal with narrow crossbars. I've even seen three boats mounted on cars using three J-racks.

Excellent photos. Thanks.

 

[DayTrip]

I can put two boats and two bikes on my roof with a single J rack (hullaport). Flat might be easier but it’s also easy to strap too tightly and deform the boat.

Tim

I don't follow. I was assuming you needed a set of J rack type clamps for EACH kayak hauled, i.e. I will need 2 sets (4 actual hooks) for my situation. I'm going to dealership tomorrow so I'll be reviewing the display again while they do my oil, tires, etc.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

HTH,

Tim

 

[JustJoe]

A little late in chiming in but here's my 2 cents. I can't see how putting after market crossbars on would effect warranties. The thing with the after market vs factory, is you have the option of extending the crossbars past the factor rails. Factory crossbars would be inside the rails. Very much limiting your space, especially on a narrow vehicle. Both Thule and Yakima have guides as to what options they have for any given vehicle. Look at both Thule and Yakima and see if there's a setup you really like that would maximize your system.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

Let me off one more factor - The after-market Thule on my Forester definitely makes it more difficult to remove the snow. My wife has a Highlander with factory cross bars and they are much lower profile, much more aerodynamic, and much less in the way of snow removal.

Tim

 

[JustJoe]

That said... the towers mounted to the Subaru factory rack are IMO are more impervious to theft.

There is a lock cylinder on the front of the Hull-A-Port to prevent it from being removed from the rack as well.

Tim

I have those on my Rouge. With a box cutter, they'll be off and gone in 5 minutes.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

Are yours rubber or rubber-coated steel?

Tim

 

[JustJoe]

Are yours rubber or rubber-coated steel?

Tim

Good question. They're so flexible I assumed just heavy duty rubber. if there's a steel core it has to be pretty thin. But if so, I stand corrected. Tin snips. But seriously, I've had some sort of rack system for 25 years. Never once did I see evidence of tampering.

 

[jfb]

They are supposedly rubber coated steel straps. I don't even have locks and have never had the racks stolen. However, when my bike is on the roof, I never leave it for more than a few minutes.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

My reasoning (I am not a thief) is that there are more ways to pry the clip-on towers off with hands, sticks, random tools, then there are to cut those rubber-coated steel straps.

https://www.thule.com/en-us/roof-ra...ories/thule-rapid-crossroad-foot-pack-_-17852

Features
Durable and easy-to-mount foot attaches to broad range of raised railings
Built-in tool enables quick installation and removal
Rubber-coated steel strap securely attaches foot to raised railings


Tim

 

[Stan]

I have a Thule Hullavator and selected the footers based on the recommendation in Thule's website. When I changed cars the same footer was prescribed but for the vehicle I'm considering now, it would required a different footer.

In both vehicles I attached the stern line to the tow hitch but needed to install a brush guard up front for the bow line. I like that the brush guard also clears brush away a bit and is likewise effective for pedestrians.

I always bring the kayak to the Canadian Maritimes and Maine but rarely to NH. Likewise, I always bring it to Florida but rarely elsewhere outside New England though I'd consider it in a number of east coast destinations. Based upon these long distance journeys, I lose about 2 MPG when carrying the kayak. Its an easy calculation to determine whether you'd be better off financially leaving the boat at home and renting depending on the frequency of the use but I have found there are more "ideal" places to paddle than there are convenient outfitters and the freedom of coming and going as you please is priceless.

 

[DayTrip]

This car looks like it has factory crossbars: https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for...1=SUB&modelCode1=SUBCRSSTRK&clickType=listing

That is what I got installed. If I remember right I didn't opt for it when I got my car but it was one of the options. They seem pretty sturdy and I haven't really noticed a change in noise level. I got them installed the same day I got new tires. Kind of wish I had split those events so I could evaluate the noise and mpg impact better.

 

[DayTrip]

Can anyone comment on the straps/strapping process on these racks (the straps that hold the kayak)? Seems to be a lot of variation in type. Would be wiling to pay extra for a rack with an idiot proof system such as a clip that tightens like a backpack hip belt or similar set up versus threading through holes, looping, etc. Many of my hopeful kayak trips will involve lengthy rides so I really want a bullet proof system for securing. The https://www.amazon.com/Thule-Hull-Port-Rooftop-Carrier/dp/B00152TUUI seems to have such a nice set up. Any thoughts?

 

[JustJoe]

Can anyone comment on the straps/strapping process on these racks (the straps that hold the kayak)? Seems to be a lot of variation in type. Would be wiling to pay extra for a rack with an idiot proof system such as a clip that tightens like a backpack hip belt or similar set up versus threading through holes, looping, etc. Many of my hopeful kayak trips will involve lengthy rides so I really want a bullet proof system for securing. The https://www.amazon.com/Thule-Hull-Port-Rooftop-Carrier/dp/B00152TUUI seems to have such a nice set up. Any thoughts?

There's probably a ton of videos on YouTube so I won't post a link to one. But the straps that tie down the kayak are ridiculously easy to do. They don't work how in your mind you'd think they do (at least not for me), but do it once and you can do it with ease. Very, very, simple. And other than something like the Thule Hullavator Pro, they pretty much all work the same way. No matter what brand or model.