albee
New member
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2005
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Hey Tom...
I don't want to hijack this thread, but to answer your question I was there about a year ago and I went west to east on the traditional route which does now reach the glacier further north. You're right - Hooker Hut is cut off but you could get to it if you really wanted to. To this date, that was the hairiest climbing I've ever done. Descending the glacier face, then the loose scree and then the steep moraine wall with a 50 lb pack on solo was quite an experience. Crampons and ice axe essential!
You're right about no runout... the glacier comes to a tiny saddle at the top of the ridge where Copland Shelter sits. At one point my Nalgene fell out and slid 500 meters and luckily came to rest just before the drop-off on either side of the saddle. Not that I needed to be reassured, but after that every step was taken with extreme caution... glissading was out of the question!
I don't want to hijack this thread, but to answer your question I was there about a year ago and I went west to east on the traditional route which does now reach the glacier further north. You're right - Hooker Hut is cut off but you could get to it if you really wanted to. To this date, that was the hairiest climbing I've ever done. Descending the glacier face, then the loose scree and then the steep moraine wall with a 50 lb pack on solo was quite an experience. Crampons and ice axe essential!
You're right about no runout... the glacier comes to a tiny saddle at the top of the ridge where Copland Shelter sits. At one point my Nalgene fell out and slid 500 meters and luckily came to rest just before the drop-off on either side of the saddle. Not that I needed to be reassured, but after that every step was taken with extreme caution... glissading was out of the question!