Having hiked in the Whites for just over ten years, I finally got a chance to visit the Great Gulf Wilderness, long a bucket list item for me. As well, I got to sleep in my tent for two nights, always a pleasure. And I summited two peaks I've been up before, but by different routes. On the way up I almost got stuck behind the 4th of July parade in Gorham, and but made it through before the road was closed. All the emergency trucks were lined up, with small crowds along the road.
The hike up to Osgood Tentsite wasn't too bad, but the bugs and humidity really made me long for winter. I had the first platform to myself, and set up my stuff including some luxury items: a one-pound chair, a can of wine that I chilled in the stream, and a good book. Unfortunately there is cell service there; I prefer to feel cut off when camping, and not have all the distractions. (I do carry a Garmin for emergencies).
Up early, I ascended Osgood Tr, meeting a half-dozen AT thru-hikers coming down. They'd camped just below treeline, and I wished them well. I hope to hike Katahdin in August, and this hike was a warm-up for that. I'm closing in on my 2nd round of the 48, summiting Madison for my second time (with Hale and Zealand to go). This was a hard climb, with great views of the Wildcats-Carters-Moriah, and of Washington and Northern Presis. Also very good views off to the northeast into Maine. Met many folks up top, one gent just below the summit said to me, "Where else would you rather be?" when I said it was a hard climb. The last time I was on Madison was in 2015 with B the Hiker, back when I didn't keep a list of what I'd hiked.
The Hut cruu had some delicious sweet bread with blueberries for the 4th, and tomato soup. Made use of the facilities and their guides/maps, as well as picking the brain of the person at the desk about descending into the Great Gulf. She knew every trail and offered some helpful beta. I set out for Adams via Star Lake Trail - another tough climb. There was a swarm of some wasp-like bug at the top, and just at the top. Spectacular views. I knew Jefferson was off the table, as I was too tired with a long ways to go. I have yet to hike between Thunderstorm Junction and the summit of Jefferson, but it will have to wait for another time. I descended to the junction as it would be the easiest way back to the hut, and to the Gulf, though a bit longer. And it was great to have a peek into King Ravine and see the Subway from above.
After a second water fill-up I was off to Buttress Trail. Within seconds of starting on the trail by the lake, I had to step in unavoidable water and soaked my trail shoes. I took it as a bad omen of what was to come. Indeed this was a very challenging route, with very grown over brush in the krummholz / treeline section. Legs got scratched and couldn't see the trail. The rocks under often had voids between them so you really needed to step with care. There were a couple of drop-offs that I very deliberately slid down - it would be super un-cool to need to call for a rescue back here.
The last open stretch of talus field, just before the junction with the abandoned Adams Slide Trail, afforded some of the more spectacular and unique views of the day. I could see a piece of the auto road by Chandler Brook Tr, the Great Gulf headwall, and the big prominence with the Six Husbands Trail going up to Jefferson. The sound of the West Branch of the Peabody River below, the various bird calls, the smells of the trees and earth, just taking it all in.
I was happy to finally reach the Great Gulf Trail junction, and loved this section, with the water flowing by. Just after Clam Rock, ran into two women I'd met on Adams and again at the hut who were camped there. Definitely a spot I would return to on a backpack. Night set in and I had to click on my headlamp for the last hour or so. I was very unhappy to climb up again, along Osgood Cutoff, but knew my dehydrated meal in a bag of mac and cheese awaited me. 9.75 miles with 4650 feet of climbing for the day. I found an AT thru hiker on my platform, we chatted through their tent but never saw each other.
Up early the next day, and back to the car. I took a shower at Pinkham - best buck I spent on this trip. I'd forgotten soap and a towel, but had what I call a "dog towel" in the car, clean but only used to dry the dogs after swimming. Made me chuckle to use it. Filled my belly with their buffet then hit the road. Another excellent trip, can't wait to return.
Great Gulf from the talus field on Buttress Tr
Madison and Star Lake
King Ravine
Thunderstorm Junction
Washington from Adams
The hike up to Osgood Tentsite wasn't too bad, but the bugs and humidity really made me long for winter. I had the first platform to myself, and set up my stuff including some luxury items: a one-pound chair, a can of wine that I chilled in the stream, and a good book. Unfortunately there is cell service there; I prefer to feel cut off when camping, and not have all the distractions. (I do carry a Garmin for emergencies).
Up early, I ascended Osgood Tr, meeting a half-dozen AT thru-hikers coming down. They'd camped just below treeline, and I wished them well. I hope to hike Katahdin in August, and this hike was a warm-up for that. I'm closing in on my 2nd round of the 48, summiting Madison for my second time (with Hale and Zealand to go). This was a hard climb, with great views of the Wildcats-Carters-Moriah, and of Washington and Northern Presis. Also very good views off to the northeast into Maine. Met many folks up top, one gent just below the summit said to me, "Where else would you rather be?" when I said it was a hard climb. The last time I was on Madison was in 2015 with B the Hiker, back when I didn't keep a list of what I'd hiked.
The Hut cruu had some delicious sweet bread with blueberries for the 4th, and tomato soup. Made use of the facilities and their guides/maps, as well as picking the brain of the person at the desk about descending into the Great Gulf. She knew every trail and offered some helpful beta. I set out for Adams via Star Lake Trail - another tough climb. There was a swarm of some wasp-like bug at the top, and just at the top. Spectacular views. I knew Jefferson was off the table, as I was too tired with a long ways to go. I have yet to hike between Thunderstorm Junction and the summit of Jefferson, but it will have to wait for another time. I descended to the junction as it would be the easiest way back to the hut, and to the Gulf, though a bit longer. And it was great to have a peek into King Ravine and see the Subway from above.
After a second water fill-up I was off to Buttress Trail. Within seconds of starting on the trail by the lake, I had to step in unavoidable water and soaked my trail shoes. I took it as a bad omen of what was to come. Indeed this was a very challenging route, with very grown over brush in the krummholz / treeline section. Legs got scratched and couldn't see the trail. The rocks under often had voids between them so you really needed to step with care. There were a couple of drop-offs that I very deliberately slid down - it would be super un-cool to need to call for a rescue back here.
The last open stretch of talus field, just before the junction with the abandoned Adams Slide Trail, afforded some of the more spectacular and unique views of the day. I could see a piece of the auto road by Chandler Brook Tr, the Great Gulf headwall, and the big prominence with the Six Husbands Trail going up to Jefferson. The sound of the West Branch of the Peabody River below, the various bird calls, the smells of the trees and earth, just taking it all in.
I was happy to finally reach the Great Gulf Trail junction, and loved this section, with the water flowing by. Just after Clam Rock, ran into two women I'd met on Adams and again at the hut who were camped there. Definitely a spot I would return to on a backpack. Night set in and I had to click on my headlamp for the last hour or so. I was very unhappy to climb up again, along Osgood Cutoff, but knew my dehydrated meal in a bag of mac and cheese awaited me. 9.75 miles with 4650 feet of climbing for the day. I found an AT thru hiker on my platform, we chatted through their tent but never saw each other.
Up early the next day, and back to the car. I took a shower at Pinkham - best buck I spent on this trip. I'd forgotten soap and a towel, but had what I call a "dog towel" in the car, clean but only used to dry the dogs after swimming. Made me chuckle to use it. Filled my belly with their buffet then hit the road. Another excellent trip, can't wait to return.
Great Gulf from the talus field on Buttress Tr
Madison and Star Lake
King Ravine
Thunderstorm Junction
Washington from Adams
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