Stan
Well-known member
There are two things understated, in my mind, about the classical "Bow" trip.
First, the beauty and wildness of the area is undescribable. There may be something in my ancient ancestral DNA that appreciates and enjoys the northern boreal forest for its richness of nourishing and sustaining qualities but I never tire of it. Life of all sorts emerges from its harsh edges to remind you of the dominance of nature.
We started our trip with spider solo during the midst of the recent wet weeks (6-23-09) to be greeted, as if by sentries at the park gates, by two mature bald eagles. We launched at the gravel beach and dock at the end of Attean Pond Road (note the nearby parking area for Bow trippers). A launch from Big Wood Pond is also possible.
Waters were a bit higher than normal for this time of year, making part of the journey over rips and short drops easier, more clear of the rocks, and other parts a bit more difficult for us as you can later read.
The second understatement, for me at least, is the portages. My view of paddle camping is that you're relieved of the limitations of backpacking and afforded all the luxuries of car camping. That means you can transport a lot of gear, food and the related amenities. That also means multiple trips over each portage.
The first portage is 1 1/4 mi between Attean and Holeb Ponds. On this trip the trail was generally in good condition despite the wet weather. It is fairly level ... I did not say flat ... it has its minor ups and downs ... no trivial matter when you're hauling a canoe or, in our case a 21' kayak. We found that the relatively small, packable (on deck) "Paddleboy" wheels worked quite well despite the rough ground. It did not allow us to keep a load in the boat but it facilitated pulling the boat over much of the portages.
A big question for us was the condition of the bog bridges which, even under the conditions, were adequate. However, the deteriorated areas which are being replaced are built two planks wide whereas the old ones are three planks wide ... the old rotten ones were more useful for that "Paddleboy".
It took spider and us 3 trips each to carry our boats and gear ... plus a little extra because we each went back to help the other finish with the boats ... we got the better of that deal ... that added up to day one: paddling 4 3/4 miles, hiking 9 miles!
We camped on Holeb Pond which can be accessed at the other end by a logging road with a sandy launch and several campsites around the pond. It is worth a journey of its own with the inlet and Holeb Stream outlet to explore.
Between Holeb Pond and the next portage at Holeb Falls is 9 miles on top of the 3+ miles across Holeb (+ being the exploring we did while managing to lose spider who upon our rendezvous the next morning, had the sense of humor to puzzle over whether it was "Dr. Livingston I presume" or "Dr, Stanley I presume"). We had quickwater and made good time. Camel Rips was exciting and the water level kept us off the rocks. We spotted several beaver, most of whom gave us that splash warning ... one kept coming back up and gave us three warnings! Maybe that was an omen.
We were making good time, thrilled at the moose and beaver we saw ... one moose crossed the river head of us ... I was surprised that it could wade all the way across without having to swim, never exceeding her lower thighs in depth.
Then we turned off the main river enroute to the Holeb Falls portage when the fun began. There are "two small drops" ... well, in a 21' boat one must line up in advance since maneuverability is something like ... the Queen Mary. Unfortunately, on one drop the bow snagged a submerged hard place and the swift current in this narrow channel quickly turned us so that in an instant the boat was trapped between a boulder and a hard place... in no time the current had the boat on its side and us in the water. Our only escape was under the boat and when we came up, we started gathering what hadn't been lashed down (more than I care to admit) and swam to the nearby shore. We soon recovered the boat, bailed it out and were ready to go except for one missing carbon paddle ... and spider was carrying the spare on this trip ... spider?, he was still looking for Dr. Livingston, or was it Dr. Stanley, back at Holeb Pond.
As we gathered our goods and our wits, two thoughts entered my mind. First, I was reminded of that Bert and I skit where the tourist asks the grounded Captain, "Didn't you know that rock was there?" and the Captain answers, "Of course I did, I hit it didn't I."
The other thought was hypothermia ... and you've got to understand I hate cold water ... I don't mind waterboarding, just don't put me in cold water. It was then that I realized that this was summer and the water was actually pretty refreshing ... remember that 9 mile hike yesterday?
Most of our gear stayed dry, at least that which was below deck, except for the "watertight not waterproof" bag on deck and the things stowed in the forward reaches of the cockpits. Also, things stored in freezer bags in your pockets, unlike on damp hikes, do not stay dry when submerged. We knew we had some drying out to do once we made camp at the end of the next portage. Day two: paddle 12 miles, hike 4 miles, swim 35'.
Night at camp was made interesting by a pesty but clumsy racoon. Confront them, of course, and you get that innocent "who me" look. I finally brought all the food in the tent but that racoon investigated a hole into every freezer bag I left out to dry ... none of which contained food. That's nothing, there was one camper who slept in a hammock and kept his food in a bear canister ... it took him an hour to find the canister the next morning ... scratched but unopened.
Under most circumstance, the sound of the nearby falls would be soothing ... on this night it was annoying. Beware of this racoon if you camp at Holeb Falls. And, if you want to know where that hard place is just before the portage, ask me, I hit it didn't I.
The next day was sunny and warm until we went back for one last piece of the portage ... the boat ... then a sudden thundershower hit and, remember those clothes and things drying out back at camp ...
We loaded the boat anyway and waited out the storm in the shelter of a nearby cabin (open to bow trippers) when it finally began to let up. We launched and no sooner than the thrill of skimming over Mosquito Rips with only one minor scrape of a submerged rock was over when the skies opened up again. spider opted to climb a bank and bivvy it out, we clung to the shelter of some bushes along the shore, avoiding the tallest trees. Soon we were back to the paddle, well behind schedule but helped by the quickwater which at times seemed to flow downhill.
When we reached Spencer Rips we hit a dilemma ... but not a rock. This was a rip too strewn with rocks and boulders for us to comfortably navigate. spider scouted his route and in an instant was safely through it ... we opted for the portage up a very steep rocky and muddy bank. We realized that if we proceeded to the next campsite it would be dark and we'd be in a foul mood with our wet clothes and empty stomaches so we started to make camp at the pleasant grassy abutment of the old washed out bridge on the logging road.
It was then we assessed our situation. Ahead of us another 10 miles of what could be quick, scenic paddling, two more portages of unknown length and terrain, continued NOAA thundershower warnings and a desire to get ready for 4 days in Baxter Park and exploring the nearby North Woods. In the other direction, down that logging road, 14 miles to rt. 201 and a hitch hike back to Jackman where we could perhaps start cleaning up and drying out sooner to maximize the enjoyment of the rest of the trip. We chose the latter and that's a story for another campfire ... but suffice to say that ol' trail magic and the kindness of strangers in Maine made that day three: paddling 5 miles, hiking 7 miles, riding an unregistered vehicle driven by an unlicensed driver 22 miles.
I highly recommend this trip but prepare yourself for the portages, they are certainly manageable without sacrificing the amenities, watch those rocks, especially when water levels drop and make your own choice at Spencer Rips
First, the beauty and wildness of the area is undescribable. There may be something in my ancient ancestral DNA that appreciates and enjoys the northern boreal forest for its richness of nourishing and sustaining qualities but I never tire of it. Life of all sorts emerges from its harsh edges to remind you of the dominance of nature.
We started our trip with spider solo during the midst of the recent wet weeks (6-23-09) to be greeted, as if by sentries at the park gates, by two mature bald eagles. We launched at the gravel beach and dock at the end of Attean Pond Road (note the nearby parking area for Bow trippers). A launch from Big Wood Pond is also possible.
Waters were a bit higher than normal for this time of year, making part of the journey over rips and short drops easier, more clear of the rocks, and other parts a bit more difficult for us as you can later read.
The second understatement, for me at least, is the portages. My view of paddle camping is that you're relieved of the limitations of backpacking and afforded all the luxuries of car camping. That means you can transport a lot of gear, food and the related amenities. That also means multiple trips over each portage.
The first portage is 1 1/4 mi between Attean and Holeb Ponds. On this trip the trail was generally in good condition despite the wet weather. It is fairly level ... I did not say flat ... it has its minor ups and downs ... no trivial matter when you're hauling a canoe or, in our case a 21' kayak. We found that the relatively small, packable (on deck) "Paddleboy" wheels worked quite well despite the rough ground. It did not allow us to keep a load in the boat but it facilitated pulling the boat over much of the portages.
A big question for us was the condition of the bog bridges which, even under the conditions, were adequate. However, the deteriorated areas which are being replaced are built two planks wide whereas the old ones are three planks wide ... the old rotten ones were more useful for that "Paddleboy".
It took spider and us 3 trips each to carry our boats and gear ... plus a little extra because we each went back to help the other finish with the boats ... we got the better of that deal ... that added up to day one: paddling 4 3/4 miles, hiking 9 miles!
We camped on Holeb Pond which can be accessed at the other end by a logging road with a sandy launch and several campsites around the pond. It is worth a journey of its own with the inlet and Holeb Stream outlet to explore.
Between Holeb Pond and the next portage at Holeb Falls is 9 miles on top of the 3+ miles across Holeb (+ being the exploring we did while managing to lose spider who upon our rendezvous the next morning, had the sense of humor to puzzle over whether it was "Dr. Livingston I presume" or "Dr, Stanley I presume"). We had quickwater and made good time. Camel Rips was exciting and the water level kept us off the rocks. We spotted several beaver, most of whom gave us that splash warning ... one kept coming back up and gave us three warnings! Maybe that was an omen.
We were making good time, thrilled at the moose and beaver we saw ... one moose crossed the river head of us ... I was surprised that it could wade all the way across without having to swim, never exceeding her lower thighs in depth.
Then we turned off the main river enroute to the Holeb Falls portage when the fun began. There are "two small drops" ... well, in a 21' boat one must line up in advance since maneuverability is something like ... the Queen Mary. Unfortunately, on one drop the bow snagged a submerged hard place and the swift current in this narrow channel quickly turned us so that in an instant the boat was trapped between a boulder and a hard place... in no time the current had the boat on its side and us in the water. Our only escape was under the boat and when we came up, we started gathering what hadn't been lashed down (more than I care to admit) and swam to the nearby shore. We soon recovered the boat, bailed it out and were ready to go except for one missing carbon paddle ... and spider was carrying the spare on this trip ... spider?, he was still looking for Dr. Livingston, or was it Dr. Stanley, back at Holeb Pond.
As we gathered our goods and our wits, two thoughts entered my mind. First, I was reminded of that Bert and I skit where the tourist asks the grounded Captain, "Didn't you know that rock was there?" and the Captain answers, "Of course I did, I hit it didn't I."
The other thought was hypothermia ... and you've got to understand I hate cold water ... I don't mind waterboarding, just don't put me in cold water. It was then that I realized that this was summer and the water was actually pretty refreshing ... remember that 9 mile hike yesterday?
Most of our gear stayed dry, at least that which was below deck, except for the "watertight not waterproof" bag on deck and the things stowed in the forward reaches of the cockpits. Also, things stored in freezer bags in your pockets, unlike on damp hikes, do not stay dry when submerged. We knew we had some drying out to do once we made camp at the end of the next portage. Day two: paddle 12 miles, hike 4 miles, swim 35'.
Night at camp was made interesting by a pesty but clumsy racoon. Confront them, of course, and you get that innocent "who me" look. I finally brought all the food in the tent but that racoon investigated a hole into every freezer bag I left out to dry ... none of which contained food. That's nothing, there was one camper who slept in a hammock and kept his food in a bear canister ... it took him an hour to find the canister the next morning ... scratched but unopened.
Under most circumstance, the sound of the nearby falls would be soothing ... on this night it was annoying. Beware of this racoon if you camp at Holeb Falls. And, if you want to know where that hard place is just before the portage, ask me, I hit it didn't I.
The next day was sunny and warm until we went back for one last piece of the portage ... the boat ... then a sudden thundershower hit and, remember those clothes and things drying out back at camp ...
We loaded the boat anyway and waited out the storm in the shelter of a nearby cabin (open to bow trippers) when it finally began to let up. We launched and no sooner than the thrill of skimming over Mosquito Rips with only one minor scrape of a submerged rock was over when the skies opened up again. spider opted to climb a bank and bivvy it out, we clung to the shelter of some bushes along the shore, avoiding the tallest trees. Soon we were back to the paddle, well behind schedule but helped by the quickwater which at times seemed to flow downhill.
When we reached Spencer Rips we hit a dilemma ... but not a rock. This was a rip too strewn with rocks and boulders for us to comfortably navigate. spider scouted his route and in an instant was safely through it ... we opted for the portage up a very steep rocky and muddy bank. We realized that if we proceeded to the next campsite it would be dark and we'd be in a foul mood with our wet clothes and empty stomaches so we started to make camp at the pleasant grassy abutment of the old washed out bridge on the logging road.
It was then we assessed our situation. Ahead of us another 10 miles of what could be quick, scenic paddling, two more portages of unknown length and terrain, continued NOAA thundershower warnings and a desire to get ready for 4 days in Baxter Park and exploring the nearby North Woods. In the other direction, down that logging road, 14 miles to rt. 201 and a hitch hike back to Jackman where we could perhaps start cleaning up and drying out sooner to maximize the enjoyment of the rest of the trip. We chose the latter and that's a story for another campfire ... but suffice to say that ol' trail magic and the kindness of strangers in Maine made that day three: paddling 5 miles, hiking 7 miles, riding an unregistered vehicle driven by an unlicensed driver 22 miles.
I highly recommend this trip but prepare yourself for the portages, they are certainly manageable without sacrificing the amenities, watch those rocks, especially when water levels drop and make your own choice at Spencer Rips
