timmus
Well-known member
It was 3pm when we left the Timberline Lodge parking lot, and it was very warm that day. We had shorts and sunscreen on, and up the Palmer lift we climbed. We decided to do Hood in two days because it was a good practice for Rainier. We packed the same way and brought the same amount of food. Also, we were going with the same people. Our team-mates Karl and Danny were waiting for us at elevation 8600’ (basecamp), and we were trilled to meet with our friends from Quebec so far away from home.
Around 6pm we dropped off our packs and set up camp. It was a beautiful day, and we knew we were very lucky to have such a good weather window. After food and logistic discussions, we slipped into our sleeping bags and tried to sleep at least few hours. A 2am departure was our goal. It was very windy, and the flapping was disturbing, but I had ear plugs, so I slept just fine.
When we got up the stars were shining. We had breakfast (blueberry granola, way too sweet for me), put on the harnesses and helmets, and headed to the summit. We could see lines of headlamps below us, and being the first team was a good feeling. We knew the route (Danny is the expert), and we were confident. I started to feel nauseous at elevation 9500’, but I’m not sure if it was because the altitude or the Mountain House… As soon as we got at the Hogsback, I felt better. JS forced me to eat and drink more and it worked. We roped on and proceed. This is where the smell of sulfur dioxide began to seriously annoy us. It’s just a very bad smell (where's the puking smiley ?).
Anyway, it was dawn already, and now the route up to the ridge was visible… A straight walk across the spine of the Hogsback, then a left turn to traverse a near 40° slope, with rock slide tracks to cross, and finally few switchbacks to reach the Old Chute passage. It was very exciting ! All this glacier travelling was happening above a deep bowl with emanations coming out of it, surrounded by crevasses and threatening rocks walls. Get the picture ?
For me the most technical step was the big rock slide track, because the snow was packed and icy, neither the crampons or ice ax had a good grip on it. It was three feet wide, so I had to put at least one foot in there in order to cross. Also, both sides of the track had mini-walls to climbs over. JS went first and got himself well anchored so I could cross safely. We were the only group roped on that day on Hood, and I was glad we did.
It didn’t take long before we attacked the switchbacks up to the ridge. Sometimes the steps were too large for me, but I was fine, I was in a pretty good shape. Once on the ridge the amazing views welcomed us. We got rid of some gear and started to scramble toward the summit. One minute or two later we finally reached the top. We all congrats ourselves for our good job and headed down. The others teams we catching up on us, and it was nice to exchange words with everyone. Especially with that 70 years old man wearing leather strap-on crampons. He told us he first climbed Mount Hood in the 50’s !! Pretty cool.
Back at our tents we took a small nap and hiked (boot-slide) down to the parking lot. We said goodbye to our friends, and give them ‘’rendezvous’’ one week later in Paradise…
PICTURES
Around 6pm we dropped off our packs and set up camp. It was a beautiful day, and we knew we were very lucky to have such a good weather window. After food and logistic discussions, we slipped into our sleeping bags and tried to sleep at least few hours. A 2am departure was our goal. It was very windy, and the flapping was disturbing, but I had ear plugs, so I slept just fine.
When we got up the stars were shining. We had breakfast (blueberry granola, way too sweet for me), put on the harnesses and helmets, and headed to the summit. We could see lines of headlamps below us, and being the first team was a good feeling. We knew the route (Danny is the expert), and we were confident. I started to feel nauseous at elevation 9500’, but I’m not sure if it was because the altitude or the Mountain House… As soon as we got at the Hogsback, I felt better. JS forced me to eat and drink more and it worked. We roped on and proceed. This is where the smell of sulfur dioxide began to seriously annoy us. It’s just a very bad smell (where's the puking smiley ?).
Anyway, it was dawn already, and now the route up to the ridge was visible… A straight walk across the spine of the Hogsback, then a left turn to traverse a near 40° slope, with rock slide tracks to cross, and finally few switchbacks to reach the Old Chute passage. It was very exciting ! All this glacier travelling was happening above a deep bowl with emanations coming out of it, surrounded by crevasses and threatening rocks walls. Get the picture ?
For me the most technical step was the big rock slide track, because the snow was packed and icy, neither the crampons or ice ax had a good grip on it. It was three feet wide, so I had to put at least one foot in there in order to cross. Also, both sides of the track had mini-walls to climbs over. JS went first and got himself well anchored so I could cross safely. We were the only group roped on that day on Hood, and I was glad we did.
It didn’t take long before we attacked the switchbacks up to the ridge. Sometimes the steps were too large for me, but I was fine, I was in a pretty good shape. Once on the ridge the amazing views welcomed us. We got rid of some gear and started to scramble toward the summit. One minute or two later we finally reached the top. We all congrats ourselves for our good job and headed down. The others teams we catching up on us, and it was nice to exchange words with everyone. Especially with that 70 years old man wearing leather strap-on crampons. He told us he first climbed Mount Hood in the 50’s !! Pretty cool.
Back at our tents we took a small nap and hiked (boot-slide) down to the parking lot. We said goodbye to our friends, and give them ‘’rendezvous’’ one week later in Paradise…
PICTURES
Last edited:
