alavigne
New member
Only two technical sections of ice low down in the dike. First one is easier than the second one, but both are relatively easy. Other than those two sections, almost entire route up the dike is fresh snow, sinking in to about two feet with boots and crampons on.
Slab portion of route is variable. Sections of one-to-two foot snow, sections of 1 to 2-inch thin ice over rock, and some very nice 'styrofoam' like hard snow (good for cramponing). We weaved around, trying to find the best choice of surface conditions and generally avoiding most of the thin ice (although you will likely have to cross some of it at some point).
Equipment required: snowshoes for approach and departure, crampons for climbing ice sections in dike and for use on slab; ice axes (technical ones if you aren't comfortable using alpine axes for ice climbing), rope, ice screws, 'biners, webbing, etc.
Full report with pictures available here
Slab portion of route is variable. Sections of one-to-two foot snow, sections of 1 to 2-inch thin ice over rock, and some very nice 'styrofoam' like hard snow (good for cramponing). We weaved around, trying to find the best choice of surface conditions and generally avoiding most of the thin ice (although you will likely have to cross some of it at some point).
Equipment required: snowshoes for approach and departure, crampons for climbing ice sections in dike and for use on slab; ice axes (technical ones if you aren't comfortable using alpine axes for ice climbing), rope, ice screws, 'biners, webbing, etc.
Full report with pictures available here
