Mt St Helens (WA) -pics

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buckyball1

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Orrington, ME
One of my daughters works at Reed College in Portland, OR and I try to visit her once a year and usually throw in a solo hiking road trip. Last year the hikes included South Sister near Bend (superb hike), but no TRs as for reasons still not clear to me i took a 2 month hiatus from hiking upon my return; thought i might "quit" altogether. Fortunately the pull of the woods istoo strong.

This year, the highlight of my hiking was Mt St Helens. There's a permit system to climb St Helens by the "tourist" route, south side, Monitor Ridge, about 9.5 miles RT and a bit over 4600' ascent. The 100 permits per day go quickly after 2/1 and due to injury and indecision i found myself with no permit come July. I was fortunate to get one at cost on the Cascade Climbers Permit exchange site.

On 8/19 I drove to WA from Portland on Rt 5 and cut east toward the south side of St Helens through Cougar where i picked up my permit and signed in for the hike at Lone Fir Lodge, a very commercial campground. Drove a series of good USFS roads to the Climbers Bivouac at the base of St Helens (3700')-parking, utilitarian camp sites. On the way up, I got my first look at the mountain and the heavy snow load in place throughout the Northwest. Much more snow than when i climbed in early August 2010.

St Helens
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I probably overreact, but i'm starting to feel "ageism" during the usual banter/sizing up that goes on at a place like the Climbers Bivouac the night before the hike. One 20 something smirked when i asked about any "bear problem" (meaning at campsite re food) and assured me that the bears would not get after me on the hike, then allowed how this was a pretty stiff hike and that "many people have problems summitting".

Slept well, off about 550AM following 2 women who left around 430. The hike can be broken into 3 parts; a 2+ mile moderate uphill on a great trail, a tough 2.7 mile leg up the lava boulder strewn Monitor Ridge followed by less than a mile up a very steep ash/cinder slope to the rim. There are snow chutes (the adventurous glissade down some) surrounding much of the route.

typical snow fields and minor ridges adjacent to Monitor Ridge
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The first two miles were a pleasant uphill stroll through the woods on a typically great western trail, wide/smooth. Then hit the long Monitor Ridge which for me was the toughest part of the hike; sharp lava boulders mixed with patches of ash and skree on a moderately steep ridge with steep "steps" and no clear path other than wend your way from one large post to the next-trickier with nobody to follow.

looking down the Monitor Ridge
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I finally reached the instrument filled monitoring site at the top of the ridge named for it and stopped to rest and refuel with 3 younger hikers whom i'd been playing leapfrog with ascending the ridge. They asked me to join them going up the cinder/skree steeps and since they were local, experienced and nice guys (one has climbed Hood, Ranier, Baker, etc and this was his 8th time up St Helens) i was happy to (no idea what to expect for snow/cornices on the rim).

looking up the cinder slope toward the rim
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I gaped in amazement as the glaciated peak guy as i called him wandered in the deep snow chutes/crevasses beside the trail as we ascended (no traction devices-yike!)

my friend wandering around-he actually went into this one
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We slogged up the cinder slope, tacking back and forth, sliding backward less than the beta would suggest, but man, it was a calf burner, 1300'+ in about 0.7 miles-full sun was boiling by now, hottest days of the summer out there. We reached the rim of the crater to find the two "early" hikers had arrived shortly before us-the 6 of us had the place to ourselves for over 1/2 hour before i started down.

Wow, what a panorama. We wandered a bit counterclockwise on the rim to a spot marginally higher than what the guys said was the official finish/stop where we topped out-soon hit snow and a cornice and on the advice of my "snow/ice experienced" companion decided not to go any further for safety's sake. The views from the rim were breathtaking. Hood to the south, Adams to the east, Ranier to the north, the jagged, blasted open crater walls stretching in both directions, the deep multicolored, steaming crater and Spirit Lake still filled with trees from the blast.

"top"/west rim
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snow/ice near rim, east rim, Spirit Lake (logs, not ice)
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Ranier
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I was loath to leave such a place, but finally headed down-long slog on the rocks compared to my new friends who glissaded some of the snow chutes-they said it was crazy late in the year to be able to do that. Soon hit the trail of ants wending their way up the mountain-maybe 70-80 people on the mountain that day and i'm guessing maybe 1/2 made it up? Never saw so many ice axes that must have had the price tags still on them :). Near the monitoring station, i passed the guy from the night before who thought i'd not make it and while gasping he actually asked "did you get to the top?"-just smiled and said "of course".

Excellent, challenging, hi reward hike. I'd say harder than Washington from "easier" approaches (maybe not the Gulf) and easier than South Sister (which is my fav NW hike to date)....so glad i did this.

---you probably thought i only hike 1800' totally wooded peaks in Aroostook County :)---

Fun small/big hikes later in week (maybe another TR or so?-cool places) and then stuck 5 extra days in Portland as flights disrupted by Irene. There are much worse places to be-were i younger, i'd surely consider leaving the east for the NW--very different, tolerant, laid back vibe

-thanks Kevin Rooney

jim
 
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Wow "dude," ;) that is one awesome trip report!

How many hours did the hike take rt?
Are those logs in Spirit Lake logs from the eruption in 1980?
 
thanks IC-
-was told logs were from eruption in 80;
-pushed pretty hard on hike; maybe 3:50 up, 40ish minutes on top and about 2:45 down with pauses to chat with people ascending

j
 
Great pics and report, Jim. It brought back some great memories. The build-up of snowfields and even young glaciers is impressive. I guess the past heavy snow year contributed to that as well. And why is it that the most brash young men are often the weakest hikers?

Did you get a chance to visit Powells? The rose gardens? Zoo? Those are some of my favorite memories of Portland when I'd visit my son there (he lived there for about 4 years before returning to VT). And I agree - Portland is a most livable city. I love the European-style trolley cars they're putting in place.
 
Wow! Amazing trip report and pics. I can understand why you might have been "loather to leave the place".:)
 
Great TR and photos. How large is the lava dome in the caldera? A few of us climbed SH the summer they started letting hikers back on the peak. We too had a spectacular day. The wildflowers and vegetation just coming back. The dome was very small but smoking, and it sounded like being out during a rainstorm on top from all the constant rock and boulder fall back into the caldera.

Thanks for sharing with everyone.

Alan
 
A--there was also lots of rockfall when we were there

-as to "how large" is the caldera?, i have no clue how to answer that, a question better left to my geologist/volcanology specialty daughter

--here's the only pic i have looking into the crater-nothing to use for any sense of scale--the guys with me said the steam/smoke was minimal the day we were there

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j
 
Great report! Nice to see what the terrain looks like, we were hoping to hike it last year on a whim when in Portland but were really unsure what terrain we were getting into (in sneakers and shorts) :) One thing led to another and the hike was not possible, just figured it was meant to be and we could always go back with proper gear!! Probably for the best! :) Glad you had a great hike!
 
Michelle,

Can't say what MSH is like now, but lots of sand and pumice dust on the final long climb to the top. And the rocks were very sharp in places as they hadn't been exposed to weathering.
Hiking boots and shorty gaiters might make for a more comfortable climb, but BuckyBall might be in a better position to provide current conditions. If you can get a permit and go on a nice day, it'll be a hike you'll remember for a long time.
 
-first two miles could be done barefoot :)
-i found the Monitor Ridge like a cheese grater, boots for sure and they'll suffer damage; i might even take gloves as i had to put my hands on a lot of very sharp rock-i changed into shorts and a short T early, but would have been shredded if i slipped/fell
-gaiters a must- dust, ash coat everything up high
-poles for sure; i guess an ice axe if you think about glissade on descent; maybe poles OK if snow is soft (not my department)

-on a warm, sunny day it's a 3 liter hike (probably 4)-brutal in the sun-leave as early as you can (before sunrise) to get some shade from the ridge for part of the way up

-do the hike if you can-

j
 
Wow. I love the shots of the scenery.

You one hella tough cookie. Sounds like a great journey, but difficult to do it solo. Glad you connected with a few folks. Sometimes just a few friendly faces here and there can make all the difference.
 
Great report and pics! I was in that neck of the woods a few months ago but it rained and rained so we couldn't climb (did some sight-seeing instead). Looks like you had a great time, congrats!
 
Great pics and report. I was up there the first summer they let hikers back after the eruption. Amazing the amount of damage to the landscape. I've seen that it is coming back... slowly.
 
Great trip report, as others have noted. We've been there twice. The first time we ran into a snowstorm about tree line and couldn't see where we were going or had been. The second time I saw a boulder I recognized (maybe?) and realized that we had been pretty close to the top the first time.

I especially liked the picture of Rainier divided by the cloud.

Glad you were able to tell that young man "of course" you had made it.
 
Excellent pictures and TR! Love that you got to pass the young dude on your way down. :)

Thanks so much for sharing your first hand account. I was in the PNW for the first time 2 years ago and had an amazing time. I went to St. Helen's but wasn't able to do the hike, so opted for something at the base instead.

What an amazing place.

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And yes, those logs are from the 1980 eruption.
 
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