My Crosscountry Adventure Part #1

[sli74]

My great adventure began on May 31, 2004 as I got into my car packed to the brim with everything I’d ever need to live on the road and in the mountains. I was so nervous my heart was in my throat. I kept wondering if I would return with my tail between my legs unable to hack a solo trip of the length I had planned. I couldn’t however express my fear or share my concerns because so many friends and family members already thought the entire idea was crazy. But inspite of the worries and the second thoughts, I knew that I had to get out there and atleast give my planned adventure a fair try. I left with a teary good bye to my sister (I had said a braver goodbye to my parents and various members of VFTT the weeks prior).

Here is a short summary for those who don’t want to wade through all my ramblings.

May 31–June 3: Drive to Utah from Albany visiting the highpoints in OH, IN and NE.
June 4-6: Backpack Kings Peak in Utah (didn’t summit)
June 9-11: Backpack the Under the Rim Trail in Bryce Canyon in Utah
June 14-15: Backpack the Zion Narrows
June 17: Dayhike Angel’s Landing in Zion
June 18: Short hike of the Rim Trail in Bryce Canyon
June 19: Dayhike Handies in CO (14,048, my first 14er)
June 21: Dayhike Belford and Oxford (both CO 14ers)
June 23: Dayhike Mount Elbert (highpoint in CO)
June 24: Dayhike Mount Massive (2nd highest in CO)

Also if you’d like to see pictures here is the link (I won’t have titles until I get a large chunk of time, SORRY !)

community.webshots.com/user/sli74

Look at all the folders marked “Crosscountry Trip” and if you don’t want to spend hours looking at all the pictures, the Bryce Rim pictures are the best of the lot (not the Under the Rim but the “Rim Trail”)

 

[sli74]

MAY 31 - JUNE 2

May 31, Monday: Drove from Albany, NY to Bellefontaine, OH
Spent the night at a campground in Bellefontaine. I got there after dark and realized that there were a lot of locals who actually lived at the campground and there were rusty old cars and RVs everywhere. I was so tired after a LONG day of driving that I found a campsite that was empty and proceeded to set up my tent. I could hear this strange clicking sound and didn’t pay much attention to it thinking that maybe I was near electric lines or something. After my tent was set up, I went to get my journal from the other side of the car (the side closer to the trees) when a LOUD noise from a foot away made me literally jump 3 feet into the air. I was already spooked by the noise of ATVs and yelling drunken men from a nearby RV site. I turn my head and by the light from my headlamp I see dozens of empty cocoons about 1-2 inches long all over the tree beside me. I scream and jump away from the tree and quickly get into my tent where I spent the night refusing to even get out for a “bathroom” run. I realize that the clicking sound is from whatever monstrous bug came out of those very large cocoons. The cocoons looked like miniature versions of the alien in the movie “Aliens”. Anyway, the next morning I discover that indeed the entire campground was infested with these LARGE bugs and there were 100s of holes all over the ground. I never packed up and fled so quickly. I did, however, get a picture of the bug emerging from the cocoon ON MY tent and the adult bug. I later was told that they were Cicadas and they emerge every 17 years (LUCKY ME) . . . YUCK!!!!

June 1, Tuesday: Visited the Ohio Highpoint and Indiana Highpoint.
This was just a 1 minute walk up a grassy hill, where I took the obligatory pictures before I drove on to the Indiana highpoint, which was also a 1 minute walk into the trees where I spent another minute talking a picture. A couple of phone calls confirmed that I’d be unable to visit the Illinois highpoint as I had hoped. Thus, I changed my original plans to get both Illinois and Iowa and decided instead to go spend the night at a friend’s place near Iowa City. My parents really did not want me to stay at any more suspect campgrounds and since they were freaking out I changed the rest of my driving plans to include nights with friends and family.

June 2, Wednesday: Nebraska Highpoint
This was also another drive-up highpoint but for some reason it was a place where I felt very much at peace. I spent a good 30 minutes just sitting there and thinking. I don’t know what I liked about it but it was one of my favorite places. For this night I drove 50 miles out of my way to Fort Collins, CO and spent the night at my aunt and uncle’s place.

 

[sli74]

JUNE 3 - JUNE 7

June 3, Thursday: Henry’s Fork Campground at the start of the trail up Utah’s Highpoint
This trailhead to King’s Peak in Utah is located in the most remote place. I drove miles and miles down dirt roads rutted and washed out in places to reach this absolutely AMAZING area. I have never been to a place that was so wild!!! I saw dozens of deer and elk and even a moose, which was up close and personal. Unfortunately, I didn’t have my camera with me when I had the moose encounter during a bathroom run. I was ALL by myself and even though it is supposed to be the most traveled trail; I was once again without any company. I was REALLY wishing at that point that Sean had come with me for this part of the trip (Sean, you bum)!!!! This was a place I knew was truly wild still and I hoped the animals would not get too curious.

June 4-6, Friday-Sunday: Kings Peak – Highpoint Utah (about 20+ miles)
I had planned this as a 4 day, 3-night trip that ended a day earlier. I hiked on the 4th to Dollar Lake, a very easy hike through beautiful forest to a nice area where I was surrounded by snow covered peaks. I knew starting this hike that I had a slim chance of making it to the summit because the trail conditions at this time of year tends to complicate things. GO (Garrett), you should most definitely save this one for the last one, it truly is a majestic place. Here, I met 2 men who had headed up the trail before I got up in the morning. They were from Michigan and they had been unable to summit because of the knee-deep snow in places. Snowshoes were of no help because there wasn’t consistent snow just snowfields!!! They were very concerned that I am woman out solo would be attempting the summit the next day. I assured them that I had no intention of taking any unneeded or foolish risks and that I would turn around if and when I felt uncomfortable. After an interesting evening of hanging out with them, I said goodnight and went off to my tent to catch some shut eye . . . On June 5th the next day, I got up and made my way to towards the summit. The trail was frequently lost under large deep snowfields. The snow was soft and I quickly became exhausted postholing at 11,000+ feet. I knew I was off trail so I began to climb up a pass that I thought was Gunsight Pass. At about 12,000 feet, I happened to turn around and look into the valley below and unfortunately realized that I had started up too early and was heading up the wrong pass. The trail was easily visible between 2 large snowfields. I descended back to 11, 000 feet and got on the trail. However, a look at my watch confirmed that this trip up and down from the summit would surely keep me pushing the limit with daylight. Because of the deep snow and the exhausting postholing and the added risk that I hadn’t and would most probably not see another soul for the rest of my trip I decided to head back to camp and try for the summit again the following day. I was in no hurry because I had another entire day up in the area. However, after a relaxing afternoon spent eating a warm lunch in the most spectacular setting, I began to experience a bloody nose. At first I thought it was nothing but as I reviewed the symptoms of altitude sickness I realized that anything more serious than a bloody nose in such a remote place while being all alone was probably not a smart idea. When the next day brought with it more blood from my nose, I sadly packed up my stuff and headed back to the car, leaving Kings Peak for another time. On the way out I ran into 2 hikers on their way in, I gave them a report on the trail conditions, wished them luck and went back to spend another night alone at Henry’s Fork Campground. I got to see more deer and elk and as I headed out of the area realized that maybe I’d been too quick to think the bloody nose was the altitude. I think the dry air combined with the cold that was settling into my body were responsible for the bloody nose and not the altitude, oh well, better safe than sorry, I guess. If I’d had company I think I would’ve pushed on and though it would’ve been exhausting the summit was not impossibly out of reach.

 

[sli74]

JUNE 7-11

June 7, Monday: Stayed in Salt Lake City
June 8, Tuesday: Drove to Bryce Canyon and stayed in Sunset Campground

June 9-11, Wednesday-Friday: Bryce Canyon – Under the Rim Trail ( 23 miles)
This trip was another one where I saw almost no one the entire hike. I left my car at the Visitor’s Center and shuttled to Bryce Point where I started my hike into the Canyon. This hike was amazing . . . getting up close to some of the hoodoos in Bryce and also giving me a chance to see canyon wildlife. The most difficult part of this trip was the lack of water sources in the canyon and also the difference in temps between daytime and nighttime. The highs were in the 80s and 90s and the lows were in the 30s. On day 1 I hiked 10 miles to Sheep Creek Campsite. The night brought with it strong winds which swept the fine sand in the canyon right into my tent. The winds also ripped my wonderful Henry Shires Tarptent and finally in the dark, I took everything down and moved myself to a less ideal but more sheltered spot. But the sand was embedded in everything. The 2nd day, I got a chance to wind through the canyon floor that brought me up close to the sandstone walls. Once again I carried 6 liters of water because the water at Iron Spring 10 miles hike away and near the 2-nd night’s campsite is known to be difficult to pump and heavily laden with iron. The 2-nd night was off trail and I chose a secluded spot among a grove of trees to set up my tent. It was a peaceful night and I got a chance to see a beautiful sunrise in the morning. An early start and a hike of over 3000-foot elevation brought me back to the rim at Rainbow Point. The trip back to the visitor’s center was via a shuttle bus where luckily for me there was room for myself and all my things. During the trip in the shuttle, I got a chance to see all the "vistas” and canyons I had seen from inside the Canyon. It was wonderful to get the perspective from the rim. I also met a wonderful couple who are full time RVers and talk to them about my trip. After an hour of hanging out with George and Joan, I grew quite fond of them and they of me so we exchanged emails and I promised to send them links to my pictures. I was really wishing I had another day to spend in Bryce because some of the most spectacular sights were the touristy ones from the rim. However, a few hours to get cleaned up and a short nap only left me with an hour to wander the rim.

 

[sli74]

JUNE 12-15

June 12-June 13, Saturday-Sunday: Rest days in St. George, Utah.
With all the backpacking and living out of my car and tent left me with a real need for some down time.

June 14-June 15, Monday-Tuesday: Zion Narrows ( 18 miles )
The trip started with a surprise! As I stood waiting for my shuttle, who should walk over and give me a hug but George and Joan from the Bryce Canyon Shuttle. It was so nice to run into them and it just made my morning. After saying goodbye to them I was on my way to hike the Narrows. This trip was one that came highly recommended and so I had booked Campsite #4 in the Narrows over the internet before I even began my trip. Initially when I thought I’d have company on this trip I figured we’d shuttle ourselves but with only 1 car, I paid to be shuttled to the Chamberlain’s Ranch end to begin my hike. I was the only one being shuttled by the small 1-2 man outfit I’d booked my shuttle through so I started my hike alone on a gorgeous sunny day with the temps in the 90s by 10 am. Within an hour or 2, I was hiking in the river and unlike my first hike of a river in Paria Canyon in April, this time around I was experienced enough to forget the gaiters and really forget any hopes of keeping my feet dry. About 3 hours into my hike, a couple from Seattle, Ben and Claire caught up to me and we played leapfrog for a while. However, pretty soon I was a bit ahead of them and then, another set of 2 hikers from San Diego, Harrison and Lorene, who were cousins caught up with me. The 5 of us ended up at the waterfall at the same time and we took time to swim under the falls and take pictures. I hiked the last 2-3 miles with Harrison and Lorene and they hiked on to their campsite while I stayed at my assigned campsite. They invited me to spend the night at their site but I was ready for dinner and so I declined. The shady campsite was set about 20 feet up from the Canyon floor in a grove of trees and it was a very peaceful night. The next morning, I got up bright and early and started my hike and got to H and L’s site just as they were packing up their gear. The three of us hiked the rest of the way to the Temple of Sinawava together, laughing and talking and enjoying the tremendous canyon walls and the challenging deep pools. About 3 hours before the end of the hike, as I was chatting with Harrison, I stepped on a rock that gave way under my feet and fell face first onto my knees. The blood was gushing out of my right knee and my left knee felt like someone had taken a hammer to it. I was sitting there unable to talk while they both tried unsuccessfully to talk me into giving my heavy full pack to Lorene and taking her smaller pack. I knew I’d be okay after catching my breath. Though it took a full 15 minutes, I finally was able to get my pack and myself up and hiking again. I think I worried them both a bit. The last 1-2 miles were FILLED with tourists make the trek upstream and we really counted our blessings that we had the first 15 miles to ourselves. The hike and the great company made for a FABULOUS trip. I had dinner with my new friends and headed to Vegas where I would meet Donna for the next leg of my journey.

 

[sli74]

JUNE 16-19

June 16, Wednesday: Las Vegas
Spent the day in Vegas, waiting for Donna to arrive feeling VERY excited to finally have a friend to hike with instead of being all alone !!! BUFFETS, Yippeee !!!

June 17, Thursday: Zion – Angel’s Landing ( 5 miles )
Today Donna and I got on the road to head to Zion (back to Zion for me). We hiked Angel’s Landing and spent some time at the summit soaking in the views and the rays. The last section though needing some scrambling was not difficult as I’d imagined. We took an hour and 45 minutes to get up, spent 45 minutes on the summit and took about an hour to get down. It was the perfect short hike for Donna first day out West with me!!! After the hike, we left Zion and drove to Bryce. I was very excited because I had really wanted to spend more time in Bryce and hike the Rim trail when I was there earlier but didn’t have a chance so when Donna was excited about getting up early and doing that, I was thrilled.

June 18, Friday: Bryce canyon – Rim Trail from Bryce Point to Sunrise Point
We woke up bright and early, packed up the tent and drove to Bryce Point. We parked the car at Bryce and had the Rim Trail to ourselves until almost 8:30 am when the shuttles had begun and the tourists flooded the rim. We took a zillion pictures and were awed at the beauty of the canyon. It is no wonder the place attracts so many; it is well worth the trip! We didn’t hike all the way to the end since we had a 9-10 hour drive ahead of us that day. We took the shuttle back to the car and drove to Telluride, CO. Arm had recommended a hike of Lizard Head in that area and with Donna talking about it SO much, I had also got my heart set on that hike. Well, it was not meant to be for us this trip. We had planned to catch the Yonder Mountain String Band but that also was not going to happen. When we got there after a VERY long road trip we discovered that ALL the campsites and motels and hotels and all lodging was booked solid !!! There were 2 festivals in town and without prior booking we were left to either leave town or sleep sitting up in a tiny Honda Civic packed full with our stuff. We were both extremely disappointed and TIRED BUT being the troopers that we are we decided that these snags were just part of our adventure and we put a smile on our faces and made the best of the situation. I was so glad Donna was as easy going as I am because I think the difficult situation was made better by the fact that we both just stayed in good spirits and didn’t flip out. The drive from Telluride (where we ate dinner and dessert) to Gunnison where we finally booked a campsite took over 2 hours. We were both tired and punchy and we were practically in hysterics by the time we got our tent up at 1 am !!!! During dinner I pulled out my Colorado hiking guides and we blindly chose a 14er named Handies because of its proximity to Gunnison and decided that we would hike that the next day!

 

[sli74]

JUNE 19-24

June 19, Saturday: Handies, 14,048 – Our FIRST 14er in CO ( 7.6 miles, 3650 feet gain)
Donna and I woke up early, packed up our tent and drove to Lake City where we grabbed breakfast in a cute little coffee shop. We then drove a terrible dirt road and tortured my poor car and finally made it to the trailhead by about 11:30 am. We knew we were pushing our luck with such a late start but we were excited and happy to be out on the trail. The day turned out to be our best and the peak was better than our wildest imagination. I think I am in LOVE with Colorado. Donna will agree with me when I say Handies is on the top of the list of ALL the peaks we’ve ever climbed. We saw one other hiker once on the trail and he was on his way out. We thoroughly enjoyed the peak and she almost has me convinced that everything happens for a reason. We might’ve had our difficulties with Telluride and Lizards Head but Handies was well worth it all !! Between the marmots and the wildflowers and then streams and the 360-degree views of the most beautiful peaks, this day will not be easily surpassed. Once again our luck in towns isn’t very good. Our plan was to stay in Lake City and have a nice dinner BUT as luck would have it, there was a race there that evening and there weren’t any more available rooms so we left and drove like a bat outta hell back to the Gunnison Campground. We got there with a minute to spare and got a second night booked. We were headed to Leadville the next day.

June 20, Sunday: Leadville
We drove to the Missouri Gulch Trailhead and set up the tent at a roadside campsite and went into Leadville for dinner and a look around for a place to stay for the night after our next hike. We initially thought we’d stay at the local Super 8 but then found the Leadville Hostel. The place was so clean and nice and inviting and at $15 a night we told them we’d be back the next night and we’d stay for 2 nights. After dinner we headed back to our campsite so that we could get our rest and a 5 am start on the trail.

June 21, Monday: Belford 14,197 and Oxford 14,153 (11 miles, 6000 feet gain)
Throughout the night before there were cries of coyotes getting closer and closer and the fear of their proximity kept both Donna and I in the tent. It also kept us off the trail till it became light out at 5:30am. We did however, get on the trail before 6 am and by 9 were on our way up the side of Belford. However, the dark clouds were moving in and when 2 members of the CFI (who maintain the trails) turned around we also briefly began to descend afraid of what the weather might do. However within 5 minutes of descending we stopped and the other 2 also stopped further down and watched the Western sky as it showed promise of clearing. Beyond the dark clouds were clear blue skies and so we decided to take a chance and head back up. After all we had come so very far and the temps were in the 30s making the chance of lightning slim. We made it to the top of Belford only to be met by fierce winds that kept knocking us down. Now at this point Donna was ready to call it a day and as most of you know I am usually one to play it safe as well. BUT, I don’t know what got into me but when Donna left the door to continue on just slightly open, I according to her gave a pleading look that said I wanted to go onto Oxford. And I admit I should’ve given Mother Nature’s ferocity more credit and turned back. However, Oxford was truly calling my name and so we pushed on . . . it looked close enough to touch!!! So on we went and the weather settled in on us. About 200 feet elevation left from the top of Oxford, I realized I’d made a bad decision and Donna takes one look at me and says something to the effect of “It’s too late for us now”. And all I could think was “OH MY GOD, she thinks we are going to DIE”. All she meant was we are caught in this storm and turning back now isn’t going to change that so we might as well summit. Well, suffice it to say we hiked up and back over Belford in a blinding hail storm and though my fears about lightning weren’t reality both Donna and I felt as though we’d been pelted with rocks at 80 mph and our faces were RAW ! Sorry Donna, never again, I promise! We were never so happy to see my little Honda Civic. We took our sore and tired selves back to Leadville and checked into the Hostel deciding to stay there for the rest of our time in the area.

June 22, Tuesday: Day off in Leadville
We took the day off and went to Buena Vista to go to the Nature Foods store and hung out and then Donna treated me to a WONDERFULLY TASTY 5-course meal as a celebration of my graduation and my dream adventure out West. Thanks Donna!

June 23, Wednesday: Mount Elbert 14,433 (9 miles, 4100 feet gain)
This day was absolutely PERFECT. There was not a cloud in the sky and the temps were perfect for hiking. We also had the wonderful pleasure of hiking with a great group of kids. About 2 hours from the summit we met a MOB of people (a church youth group) hiking down. There were about 50-60 people according to their estimation and ours as well. Though all the kids were very polite, I was happy I wouldn’t have to share the summit with so many folks. The small group of 7-8 kids that we met up with while hiking up Elbert was our summit celebration crew. We had an impromptu potluck which everyone enjoyed and after taking a bunch of pictures from Colorado’s highest peak, we happily descended celebrating our beautiful day on Elbert !!!

June 24, Thursday: Mount Massive 14,421 (13.6 miles, 4400 feet gain)
Today was to be our day off from hiking. But the weather reports were dismal for Friday and both Donna and I though VERY tired did not want to waste a day of hiking so we dragged our tired selves from bed at 5am and got on the trail. Today would prove to be a difficult day for me physically as I was fighting a number of physical issues and wasn’t feeling very well overall but we both summited and both got a chance to help a teenager having trouble with altitude sickness. We each gave him water and food leaving us both dehydrated and hiking out without water for the last few miles. The summit was fantastic and Massive was a GREAT way to end our fabulous run of the Colorado Mountains. Both Donna and I made it to the summit of 5 14,000-foot mountains in 6 days, an amazing time was had by both.

 

[sli74]

Well, that should keep those of you with a lot of patience busy for atleast a day!!!!

sli74

 

[poison ivy]

A fantastic trip report... it made for a great read! What an adventure!

-- Ivy

 

[John S]

Three backpacks, five fourteeners and an assortment of day hikes, and you're only halfway there? Wow! I hope the finish is as good as the beginning.

 

[chomp]

Great trip report so far, Seema. I am glad that you enjoyed the Under-the-Rim Trail ( I really liked that). Bryce and Zion are both so amazing, and both so different. And congrats on getting so many 14ers already. You have me beat right now, (I have Longs, Yale and San Louis) but hopefully after I get back from Colorado in August I'll have a few more under my belt as well.

 

[Blue]

Seema,

I miss you!

Ok - so

no more scary campgrounds and cicadas,
no more falling or tripping (Sherpa has done enough for all of us)
no more "Oh My God She thinks we are going to DIE"

I loved Bryce and Zion.
Please keep me posted!

 

[Jay H]

Hey Seema. I'm tired just reading about your adventure...

Ditto on Bryce and Zion and Angel's Landing, I liked both parks..

What is worse, Cicadas or WR1& WR2?

Stay safe and enjoy, looking forward to the next postings...

Jay

 

[burg]

Wow! Great trip, fantatic pics. Congratulations on following through on a dream.

 

[HikerBob]

Seema - all I can say is 'wow!'

Good luck with the rest of your trip.

Bob

 

[sli74]

Thanks everyone,

It has been quite the trip and I sure have been missing you guys as those I've been in contact with will tell you. VFTT withdrawal isn't so bad when you get to see all that I have been able to see. I do look forward to getting back home and maybe get a chance to keep up with some of you faster hikers with my slightly stronger heart and legs!

Blue, I miss you a ton also and I am working on staying safe!!!

Jay, I will take a zillion cicadas before WR1 and WR2

Chomp, I HIGHLY recommend Handies if you can get to the San Juan Mountains.

I feel so very lucky to be living this dream trip and even luckier that I have such wonderful people back home to share it with.

Later, sli74

 

[Turnbill]

Great report so far Seema! I am very jealous. We all miss you out here. We should plan a "Seema's Crosscountry trip report" gathering when you return.

Good luck with the rest of your trip.

 

[MichaelJ]

Wicked, wicked awesome!

 

[Tuco]

So Seema, when do you stop hiking???

Great report and pix. Every time I look through pix like this it just adds to the places I want to see....

 

[LittleBear]

Seema:

Sounds like you are having an amazing adventure! I'm so jealous and you are so lucky.

So....what are you going to do when you have to return to the "real world"?????

You may need a hiking withdrawal support group to take you out for local hikes on the weekends

Stay safe - have fun (hmmm....can those two go together?)

Hope to join you on the Long Trail for a couple of days.