John S
Member
My hiking friend Meri and I arrived at Lowes Store late Monday morning hoping to revisit the northern Presidential peaks and scout some routes for a return trip in winter. Both of us have been to these peaks before but only on straight up and down day hikes. Neither of us has spent much time between the peaks and we both thought it prudent to familiarize ourselves with the area before attempting to venture there in winter. The plan was to hike up and check out Gray Knob as a base on Monday, explore the routes and trail junctions between Jefferson and Madison on Tuesday and hike out on Wednesday.
Monday’s heat and humidity made the trip up seem more taxing than it really is. I was soaked in my own sweat within the first half-mile and nearly spent by the time we reached Gray Knob. While I relaxed and re-hydrated, Meri expended some of her more abundant energy on a water run and visit to Crag Camp.
Gray Knob is a terrific place presently maintained by Matt, the summer caretaker. We shared the two-story cabin with an alpine flora summer study group from Antioch New England Graduate School, there on an annual visit to observe and record vegetation changes at several study plots, some going back many years. They were a fun bunch doing some interesting work. After settling in and dinner, we joined them at the Quay for sunset but the clouds dampened the event. It was an omen.
The plan for Tuesday was to head up to Jefferson and on to Adams and Madison. The weather appeared to be cooperating as the clouds gave way to blue skies just before we departed. Things were looking good for a day above treeline. It didn’t last long, however. We were back in the clouds when we reached Randolph Path and hiking in the rain by Edmands Col. Before heading off the Gulfside Trail up to the summit, we discussed the low, rumbling thunder we were now hearing and decided it was too far off to be a problem. Well, maybe it was far off then but it sure got close in a hurry. Just as we were nearing the top, a large clap sent us scooting down to the scrub. After twenty minutes and a few more rumbles of thunder, one or two preceded by a brightened sky, things had quieted enough to continue down. It was quite mild as such storms go but, given where we were, it caused us to rethink our plans.
With the weather still iffy, we decided to focus on our main purpose for being there and head along the Gulfside Trail to Madison Hut. At each of the junctions, we would decide whether to head for a peak or head for home.
The rest of the day was hit or miss. Well, mostly miss. Halfway to Thunderstorm Junction, the clouds broke just enough to reveal where we had been on Jefferson (we were almost there!) and catch a few views across the Gulf. It was dismal again as we passed the Adams approaches so we continued on to Madison Hut. Our hut visit, the first of two that day, was most welcome. Neither of us had been there for a while and it was fun to browse through the register, talk to the few people there at midday and have a quiet, relaxing lunch. My clothes were dry for the first time since Jefferson. When the skies brightened, we jumped on the opportunity and headed up Osgood to the Madison summit. Sure enough, the clouds rolled back in and all we saw at the top were rapidly waning views of Adams. Aptly, it poured the last hundred yards back to the hut. I was soaked again.
This second hut stop was vastly different from the mellow moments of the first. Groups were now arriving by the minute. Guests? Weather escapees? Whatever, we were the first of an arriving wave of soaked but generally happy hikers. Now 2:30, we decided to start home to Gray Knob at the sooner of 3:00 or whenever the rain let up. Ten minutes later, we departed.
Still operating under the no view/no summit rule, we passed by the Airline Trail. Things seemed a bit brighter at Thunderstorm Junction so we headed up to the Adams summit. Once again, no views! We went back down Lowes, disappointed in having few views this day but content to have reacquainted ourselves with a few peaks and acquired a feel for the connecting ridges. Just like the day started, however, things changed rapidly.
As we arrived at Adams 4 about 4:30, my clothes now dry again, the clouds suddenly disappeared! Was that the Mahoosics over there! Yes! I turned around and there was Madison, Adams and Jefferson rising in front of me! Off to my right was Bretton Woods with Franconia Ridge on the horizon beyond! Finally, we could see something!
After savoring our late day good fortune, we once again headed back down Lowes Path. Lowes was a pleasure now with wide views almost all the way to Gray Knob. Near the end, we encountered Tammy and Suzanne from Antioch working at their study plot. They enthusiastically gave us a private lesson in alpine flora. I never knew so much could grow in just a few square yards. Lesson concluded, we all headed back to Gray Knob for dinner and another sunset from the Quay.
We headed down Wednesday but not before visiting Crag Camp. Had we gone there first on Monday, I might never have seen Gray Knob. Crag Camp is a great place with lots of elbowroom inside and views into King Ravine outside. For winter, however, I would opt for Gray Knob’s wood stove over Crag Camp’s views!
We were back at Lowes Store in time to clean up and get to North Woodstock for lunch and local beverages before starting the long ride home. Reflecting on recent days, we concluded that despite missing Jefferson and no views from Madison or Adams, the trip was a success. We are now more comfortable with what the important trails look like and, maybe more importantly, what some of the key junctions look like. We feel good about having traversed the area in poor visibility and can envision stays at either Gray Knob or Crag Camp in winter. We don’t know what this next winter will bring but whatever it turns out to be, we now can more wisely pick and choose our opportunities.
Mission accomplished, with some fun along the way.
Monday’s heat and humidity made the trip up seem more taxing than it really is. I was soaked in my own sweat within the first half-mile and nearly spent by the time we reached Gray Knob. While I relaxed and re-hydrated, Meri expended some of her more abundant energy on a water run and visit to Crag Camp.
Gray Knob is a terrific place presently maintained by Matt, the summer caretaker. We shared the two-story cabin with an alpine flora summer study group from Antioch New England Graduate School, there on an annual visit to observe and record vegetation changes at several study plots, some going back many years. They were a fun bunch doing some interesting work. After settling in and dinner, we joined them at the Quay for sunset but the clouds dampened the event. It was an omen.
The plan for Tuesday was to head up to Jefferson and on to Adams and Madison. The weather appeared to be cooperating as the clouds gave way to blue skies just before we departed. Things were looking good for a day above treeline. It didn’t last long, however. We were back in the clouds when we reached Randolph Path and hiking in the rain by Edmands Col. Before heading off the Gulfside Trail up to the summit, we discussed the low, rumbling thunder we were now hearing and decided it was too far off to be a problem. Well, maybe it was far off then but it sure got close in a hurry. Just as we were nearing the top, a large clap sent us scooting down to the scrub. After twenty minutes and a few more rumbles of thunder, one or two preceded by a brightened sky, things had quieted enough to continue down. It was quite mild as such storms go but, given where we were, it caused us to rethink our plans.
With the weather still iffy, we decided to focus on our main purpose for being there and head along the Gulfside Trail to Madison Hut. At each of the junctions, we would decide whether to head for a peak or head for home.
The rest of the day was hit or miss. Well, mostly miss. Halfway to Thunderstorm Junction, the clouds broke just enough to reveal where we had been on Jefferson (we were almost there!) and catch a few views across the Gulf. It was dismal again as we passed the Adams approaches so we continued on to Madison Hut. Our hut visit, the first of two that day, was most welcome. Neither of us had been there for a while and it was fun to browse through the register, talk to the few people there at midday and have a quiet, relaxing lunch. My clothes were dry for the first time since Jefferson. When the skies brightened, we jumped on the opportunity and headed up Osgood to the Madison summit. Sure enough, the clouds rolled back in and all we saw at the top were rapidly waning views of Adams. Aptly, it poured the last hundred yards back to the hut. I was soaked again.
This second hut stop was vastly different from the mellow moments of the first. Groups were now arriving by the minute. Guests? Weather escapees? Whatever, we were the first of an arriving wave of soaked but generally happy hikers. Now 2:30, we decided to start home to Gray Knob at the sooner of 3:00 or whenever the rain let up. Ten minutes later, we departed.
Still operating under the no view/no summit rule, we passed by the Airline Trail. Things seemed a bit brighter at Thunderstorm Junction so we headed up to the Adams summit. Once again, no views! We went back down Lowes, disappointed in having few views this day but content to have reacquainted ourselves with a few peaks and acquired a feel for the connecting ridges. Just like the day started, however, things changed rapidly.
As we arrived at Adams 4 about 4:30, my clothes now dry again, the clouds suddenly disappeared! Was that the Mahoosics over there! Yes! I turned around and there was Madison, Adams and Jefferson rising in front of me! Off to my right was Bretton Woods with Franconia Ridge on the horizon beyond! Finally, we could see something!
After savoring our late day good fortune, we once again headed back down Lowes Path. Lowes was a pleasure now with wide views almost all the way to Gray Knob. Near the end, we encountered Tammy and Suzanne from Antioch working at their study plot. They enthusiastically gave us a private lesson in alpine flora. I never knew so much could grow in just a few square yards. Lesson concluded, we all headed back to Gray Knob for dinner and another sunset from the Quay.
We headed down Wednesday but not before visiting Crag Camp. Had we gone there first on Monday, I might never have seen Gray Knob. Crag Camp is a great place with lots of elbowroom inside and views into King Ravine outside. For winter, however, I would opt for Gray Knob’s wood stove over Crag Camp’s views!
We were back at Lowes Store in time to clean up and get to North Woodstock for lunch and local beverages before starting the long ride home. Reflecting on recent days, we concluded that despite missing Jefferson and no views from Madison or Adams, the trip was a success. We are now more comfortable with what the important trails look like and, maybe more importantly, what some of the key junctions look like. We feel good about having traversed the area in poor visibility and can envision stays at either Gray Knob or Crag Camp in winter. We don’t know what this next winter will bring but whatever it turns out to be, we now can more wisely pick and choose our opportunities.
Mission accomplished, with some fun along the way.
