Raven
Well-known member
After eight weeks of training (to which I was moderately dedicated) and after much thought and day-dreaming, Saturday (6/23) set up to be the perfect day to try the one-day Presidential traverse. Temps were predicted for the fifties with light to moderate winds and some cloud cover. Perfect. The plan had to include being off the ridge as early in the afternoon as possible however with thunderstorms likely. I repeated this to myself as I lit my headlamp at 3:00 AM and started up the Webster Jackson Trail. This was the wise choice, I said with a yawn. Had I really set the alarm for 2 AM?
I heard a few heavy steps in the dark on the trail that I assumed was a moose but no one seemed alarmed so I moved along, making enough noise not to startle any unsuspecting wildlife. I felt good moving along the trail at night and was happy for the early start at this point. I took the Webster branch down past Silver Cascade which looked beautiful in the glow of my headlamp before climbing to the ridge. A short side trip up to the summit of Webster (4:25 AM) revealed lights in the valley below and the slightest brightening beyond Mount Washington. I only needed the headlamp for a short time longer on the Webster Cliff Trail before I was able to pack it and enjoy the expanding morning light.
Pictures:
https://picasaweb.google.com/118011327044647058954/OneDayPresidentialTraverse?authkey=Gv1sRgCLGN-eaPu5XEUQ#
I moved along the ridge to Jackson (5:05 AM), scrambling up some of the fun ledges along the way. After the nice view on top, I dropped down into the scrub and followed the trail as the sun rose over Boott Spur in the distance. Soon, after a pleasant walk, I reached Mizpah Hut where I stopped in long enough to fill my water bladder and nod hello to the hut's few early risers. I quickly left and climbed the steep but short stretch to the summit of Pierce (6:20 AM) where the conditions continued to be perfect. As much as I love the northern Pressies, this stretch of the Southerns is beautiful and unique as it rolls along alternately dipping into short stretches of scrub and climbing over wide open ledge. Eisenhower was a great climb as the winds picked up. I took my first real break on the summit (7:00 AM) having put about 8 miles behind me and enjoyed the vistas for about 10 minutes.
Franklin's flat summit came next with steep drop-off views into Oakes Gulf and dramatic views of the unique shape of Mount Monroe ahead. I moved along ascending Monroe taking the trip over Little Monroe when I got there and then stopping briefly on the true summit (8:15 AM) for pictures of Lakes of the Clouds and one of a small, boot-shaped pond down near the Crawford Path. The alpine environment glowed in near fluorescent green in parts of the gulf and surrounding areas. Gorgeous. The new, brightly-colored growth on the scrub spruce was apparent. A good growing season in the alpine zone this year as well. The area around Monroe is one of the truly special places in the Whites (of many).
I now began to meet up with the crowds. Until now I had passed only 3 others, an early riser just out of Mizpah Hut and two trail runners between Franklin and Eisenhower. Hikers from Lakes of the Clouds Hut were awake, well-fed, and ready to move. I opted to pass by LOTC hut and kept moving up the summit cone of Washington, now among many along the trail who were headed up. The climb went quickly and on reaching the top, I quickly snapped the obligatory summit sign picture amid yelling tourists attempting to herd themselves into the perfect pose. To each his own, but I prefer to hang out at other places along the summit cone of Washington. Now at the halfway point however, I took a brief 25 minute break, my longest of the day, to down a much-needed cup of coffee, a rather bland muffin, and a gooey sticky bun wrapped in cellophane. I moved along quickly now, not wanting to lose my rhythm or let my muscles cool too much. The skies were still relatively clear. My legs felt great, I was well-hydrated, and had just filled up with water.
I moved along the top of the Great Gulf, one of the most spectacular places I've seen and one of which I never tire. I headed toward Mount Clay, looking at the looming giants Jefferson, Adams, and Madison. The last three of the day would not be easy ones. The view from Clay's summit (10:30 AM) truly shows the grand scale of the Great Gulf. I took in the massive depth of the gulf before looking up above Washington to see the dark clouds finally forming. Storms were coming. It was great motivation to keep moving. I did not want to be above treeline in a thunderstorm; neither did I want to be chased from the ridge by one before getting to Mount Madison.
The hike along the Gulfside Trail in Sphinx Col between Clay and Jefferson is probably the least familiar part of the Presidential Range to me. And the last time I hiked through here was in the dark with a headlamp, so it was really nice to see the unique views and landscape in this hidden part again. Moving up the summit cone of Jefferson, people were about headed presumably to Madison or LOTC huts or out for day hikes from the valley. I reached the summit (11:25 AM), sadly noting the condition of the cairn just below the summit cone. This used to be one of the most well-built cairn in the Whites, a tall, narrow, nearly perfectly cylindrical cone. Parts remained, but it was clear the top had collapsed at some point. The clouds over Washington were starting to look much more formidable at this point. No thunder yet, but it was only a matter of time.
After dropping off the summit cone and reaching Edmand's Col, I helped a couple of hikers straighten out the maze of trails around Jefferson and then headed along the slow, steady climb to Adams. I passed quite a few people on this stretch, most likely a result of the time of day now. More than a few trail runners jogged by on the uneven rocks as I took a short break on the big boulder near the spring. Soon I reached the Israel Ridge Trail turn off for the summit and headed up. On gaining the summit (12:50 PM), I exchanged a few hellos and was very pleased to note the dark clouds had receded for the time being. The clouds were still unsettled but at least it didn't appear a storm was imminent. A little bit of trail magic, courtesy of Mount Adams. I felt grateful having reached my favorite mountain for the 4th time this year.
Down the Air Line a half mile back to the Gulf Side and on to Madison Hut. My knee was a little achy so when I reached the hut, I downed four ibuprofin after filling my water bladder again. The clouds that had briefly dissipated on Adams were now back and the drops of rain hit the ground around me as the skies darkened. It was less than a half mile to the summit, but in the wrong conditions, that half mile could seem very, very far from safety. No thunder as of yet, and the legs were good, so I got my pack cover and rain gear ready for a quick cover if needed and headed up the scramble toward the summit of Madison. The rain came a little harder as the wind picked up. I noticed the odd pelting sound of the drops hitting the boulders around me before realizing the rain had switched over to hail. When the wind gusted, the pellets stung my legs and face but never got too large or moving too fast. I was glad to have sunglasses though to protect my eyes. I reached the summit (1:55 PM) having just started to hear the first rumblings of thunder befoe topping out. As if on cue, the loud crack of nearby thunder split the air, the rain picked up quickly, and I started moving down fast.
I descended the summit cone safely, balancing as best I could speed with careful foot placement. Now would not be the time to twist a knee or ankle, and my muscles were fatigued. Wet rock and tired legs meant I had to be extra diligent, especially if I was to move quickly. I passed by the hut and the dryness I knew was inside, wanting rather to be below the relative safety of the treeline and headed on my final descent of the day. The Valley Way was slow going, partly from the rain, partly from tired feet,and partly because I did not feel the need to move fast now. I would be wet but I was no longer above the treeline and I was losing elevation with every step. The rain eventually stopped, whether from a change in conditions or because I had dropped out of the clouds, I do not know. Either way, it was nice to put the rain jacket and pack cover away again. I reached the Beechwood Way, about a mile from Appalachia, and took this toward its junction with the link where I cut across to the rail trail and walked back to camp in Randolph (5:00). The rain came back with an absolute vengeance along the railtrail but it didn't matter. I didn't even bother with the pack cover at that point. I was soggy and tired on my return, but I felt physically good and hydrated.
It was a perfect day in all regards for a traverse; no doubt I lucked out on conditions. I am very happy I opted for the 3 AM start and kept a good pace through the day. An hour later start, and I think the storm would have chased me off the ridge before Madison or Adams.
Specifics:
Summits: Webster, Jackson, Pierce, Eisenhower, Franklin, Monroe, Washington, Clay, Jefferson, Adams, Madison.
Trails: Webster-Jackson, Webster Branch, Webster Cliff, Crawford Path, Eisenhower Loop, Franklin Loop, Monroe Loop, Gulfside, Clay Loop, Jefferson Loop, Israel Ridge/Lowes Path/Airline (for Adams loop), Osgood, Valley Way, Beechwood Way, Link, Rail Trail
24 Miles
9,000' +
14:00 Hrs
7 liters water with G2 powder
3000 calories eaten during hike. Carried 4000.
Thanks to everyone who gave me input when planning!
Stellar Day!!
I heard a few heavy steps in the dark on the trail that I assumed was a moose but no one seemed alarmed so I moved along, making enough noise not to startle any unsuspecting wildlife. I felt good moving along the trail at night and was happy for the early start at this point. I took the Webster branch down past Silver Cascade which looked beautiful in the glow of my headlamp before climbing to the ridge. A short side trip up to the summit of Webster (4:25 AM) revealed lights in the valley below and the slightest brightening beyond Mount Washington. I only needed the headlamp for a short time longer on the Webster Cliff Trail before I was able to pack it and enjoy the expanding morning light.
Pictures:
https://picasaweb.google.com/118011327044647058954/OneDayPresidentialTraverse?authkey=Gv1sRgCLGN-eaPu5XEUQ#
I moved along the ridge to Jackson (5:05 AM), scrambling up some of the fun ledges along the way. After the nice view on top, I dropped down into the scrub and followed the trail as the sun rose over Boott Spur in the distance. Soon, after a pleasant walk, I reached Mizpah Hut where I stopped in long enough to fill my water bladder and nod hello to the hut's few early risers. I quickly left and climbed the steep but short stretch to the summit of Pierce (6:20 AM) where the conditions continued to be perfect. As much as I love the northern Pressies, this stretch of the Southerns is beautiful and unique as it rolls along alternately dipping into short stretches of scrub and climbing over wide open ledge. Eisenhower was a great climb as the winds picked up. I took my first real break on the summit (7:00 AM) having put about 8 miles behind me and enjoyed the vistas for about 10 minutes.
Franklin's flat summit came next with steep drop-off views into Oakes Gulf and dramatic views of the unique shape of Mount Monroe ahead. I moved along ascending Monroe taking the trip over Little Monroe when I got there and then stopping briefly on the true summit (8:15 AM) for pictures of Lakes of the Clouds and one of a small, boot-shaped pond down near the Crawford Path. The alpine environment glowed in near fluorescent green in parts of the gulf and surrounding areas. Gorgeous. The new, brightly-colored growth on the scrub spruce was apparent. A good growing season in the alpine zone this year as well. The area around Monroe is one of the truly special places in the Whites (of many).
I now began to meet up with the crowds. Until now I had passed only 3 others, an early riser just out of Mizpah Hut and two trail runners between Franklin and Eisenhower. Hikers from Lakes of the Clouds Hut were awake, well-fed, and ready to move. I opted to pass by LOTC hut and kept moving up the summit cone of Washington, now among many along the trail who were headed up. The climb went quickly and on reaching the top, I quickly snapped the obligatory summit sign picture amid yelling tourists attempting to herd themselves into the perfect pose. To each his own, but I prefer to hang out at other places along the summit cone of Washington. Now at the halfway point however, I took a brief 25 minute break, my longest of the day, to down a much-needed cup of coffee, a rather bland muffin, and a gooey sticky bun wrapped in cellophane. I moved along quickly now, not wanting to lose my rhythm or let my muscles cool too much. The skies were still relatively clear. My legs felt great, I was well-hydrated, and had just filled up with water.
I moved along the top of the Great Gulf, one of the most spectacular places I've seen and one of which I never tire. I headed toward Mount Clay, looking at the looming giants Jefferson, Adams, and Madison. The last three of the day would not be easy ones. The view from Clay's summit (10:30 AM) truly shows the grand scale of the Great Gulf. I took in the massive depth of the gulf before looking up above Washington to see the dark clouds finally forming. Storms were coming. It was great motivation to keep moving. I did not want to be above treeline in a thunderstorm; neither did I want to be chased from the ridge by one before getting to Mount Madison.
The hike along the Gulfside Trail in Sphinx Col between Clay and Jefferson is probably the least familiar part of the Presidential Range to me. And the last time I hiked through here was in the dark with a headlamp, so it was really nice to see the unique views and landscape in this hidden part again. Moving up the summit cone of Jefferson, people were about headed presumably to Madison or LOTC huts or out for day hikes from the valley. I reached the summit (11:25 AM), sadly noting the condition of the cairn just below the summit cone. This used to be one of the most well-built cairn in the Whites, a tall, narrow, nearly perfectly cylindrical cone. Parts remained, but it was clear the top had collapsed at some point. The clouds over Washington were starting to look much more formidable at this point. No thunder yet, but it was only a matter of time.
After dropping off the summit cone and reaching Edmand's Col, I helped a couple of hikers straighten out the maze of trails around Jefferson and then headed along the slow, steady climb to Adams. I passed quite a few people on this stretch, most likely a result of the time of day now. More than a few trail runners jogged by on the uneven rocks as I took a short break on the big boulder near the spring. Soon I reached the Israel Ridge Trail turn off for the summit and headed up. On gaining the summit (12:50 PM), I exchanged a few hellos and was very pleased to note the dark clouds had receded for the time being. The clouds were still unsettled but at least it didn't appear a storm was imminent. A little bit of trail magic, courtesy of Mount Adams. I felt grateful having reached my favorite mountain for the 4th time this year.
Down the Air Line a half mile back to the Gulf Side and on to Madison Hut. My knee was a little achy so when I reached the hut, I downed four ibuprofin after filling my water bladder again. The clouds that had briefly dissipated on Adams were now back and the drops of rain hit the ground around me as the skies darkened. It was less than a half mile to the summit, but in the wrong conditions, that half mile could seem very, very far from safety. No thunder as of yet, and the legs were good, so I got my pack cover and rain gear ready for a quick cover if needed and headed up the scramble toward the summit of Madison. The rain came a little harder as the wind picked up. I noticed the odd pelting sound of the drops hitting the boulders around me before realizing the rain had switched over to hail. When the wind gusted, the pellets stung my legs and face but never got too large or moving too fast. I was glad to have sunglasses though to protect my eyes. I reached the summit (1:55 PM) having just started to hear the first rumblings of thunder befoe topping out. As if on cue, the loud crack of nearby thunder split the air, the rain picked up quickly, and I started moving down fast.
I descended the summit cone safely, balancing as best I could speed with careful foot placement. Now would not be the time to twist a knee or ankle, and my muscles were fatigued. Wet rock and tired legs meant I had to be extra diligent, especially if I was to move quickly. I passed by the hut and the dryness I knew was inside, wanting rather to be below the relative safety of the treeline and headed on my final descent of the day. The Valley Way was slow going, partly from the rain, partly from tired feet,and partly because I did not feel the need to move fast now. I would be wet but I was no longer above the treeline and I was losing elevation with every step. The rain eventually stopped, whether from a change in conditions or because I had dropped out of the clouds, I do not know. Either way, it was nice to put the rain jacket and pack cover away again. I reached the Beechwood Way, about a mile from Appalachia, and took this toward its junction with the link where I cut across to the rail trail and walked back to camp in Randolph (5:00). The rain came back with an absolute vengeance along the railtrail but it didn't matter. I didn't even bother with the pack cover at that point. I was soggy and tired on my return, but I felt physically good and hydrated.
It was a perfect day in all regards for a traverse; no doubt I lucked out on conditions. I am very happy I opted for the 3 AM start and kept a good pace through the day. An hour later start, and I think the storm would have chased me off the ridge before Madison or Adams.
Specifics:
Summits: Webster, Jackson, Pierce, Eisenhower, Franklin, Monroe, Washington, Clay, Jefferson, Adams, Madison.
Trails: Webster-Jackson, Webster Branch, Webster Cliff, Crawford Path, Eisenhower Loop, Franklin Loop, Monroe Loop, Gulfside, Clay Loop, Jefferson Loop, Israel Ridge/Lowes Path/Airline (for Adams loop), Osgood, Valley Way, Beechwood Way, Link, Rail Trail
24 Miles
9,000' +
14:00 Hrs
7 liters water with G2 powder
3000 calories eaten during hike. Carried 4000.
Thanks to everyone who gave me input when planning!
Stellar Day!!
Last edited:
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