Out of My Owl's Head -- 3/4/07

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Double Bow

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It's kind of funny. Initially, I didn't think that Owl's Head would be that big of a deal to do in winter. I had done it twice before and I figured, sure it was going to be a long day, but I had no idea what the mountain would have in store for us. I had no idea how this would compare to the 37 other NH 4Ks I'd done in winter.

We had varying expectations of what the conditions would be like. We had followed the storm very carefully and figured that Loon's reported 9.5" of fresh snow is what we'd be having to contend with. Sure, we'd be breaking trail, but we didn't think that it would be too bad. After all, we had nine hearty souls to rotate through the trail breaking, five of us having done Isolation the weekend before. One of our group members (1/2 of the C & C Hiking Factory) had done Tecumseh the day before and reported the snow only being about 4 inches deep.

We met an Lincoln Woods at hit the trail around 7am. Happily, we found that the Wilderness Trail was broken out. Birch, Dart, and C went in on XC skis. Pitter-Pat, Brewster, and I towed sleds while WSC, Mermar, and Claws went "Trad style". We cruised down the Wilderness trail to the Black Pond Spur. The skiers ditched there skis after a little bit while those of us with sleds chose to tow the line to the pond. There were a couple of cases of sleds capsizing, but thankfully, nothing was lost. On our way in, we met up with a couple of guys who had gone in to camp for the night but did not go beyond the pond. We chatted a bit and then moved on.

At the pond, I ditched the sled and started breaking whack(?). I followed the bearing that I had set at home and found the faint hint of an old track in the snow going on my same bearing. I got to a three way fork of ghosts of tracks and still, one continued on my bearing. The same thing happened at another perceived junction. Still, what I was following kept to my bearing all the way to the trail. When looking at a GPS track afterwards, it was amazing to see how straight that line was. I wish I could take full credit for it, but alas, I was was just breaking back out someone else's pefect line.

Once we had the trail, we found the snow not quite as deep but still in need of breaking. Here, Mermar relieved me of my breaking duties and lead the charge. We moved fairly well all the way to the slide. However, when we got there, we met with apprehension. We knew that this was going to be very rough going. This thing just ain't meant to be climbed with snowshoes.

What followed next was a slog to end all slogs. We fought our way up, at times having to fight for five minutes to move one step higher. A mixture of deep loose snow, icy slabs, and exposed rock make the climbing very challenging. Indeed, we should have been roped up. There was one part where we had to cross a ledge barely the width of a snowshoe and a steep drop off to the side. This was not for the faint of heart. Eventually, in an effort to achieve better footing and to make use of the local flora, we went into the trees. The snow was about waist deep and still Mermar led the charge relentlessly. After fighting for 2.5hrs, we finally reached the summit.

After a short break, we knew we had to get going and that the real fun was about to start. While it had been very difficult to make forward progress due to the looseness and depth of the snow on the way up, we knew that the opposite would be true on the way down. We skied on our snowshoes for a good ways and then, in an effort to not smack into trees in tight bends, we butt slid a ways too. Then things got steeper still. I got a real bad feeling. I felt that I needed more control and that my snowshoes were just acting like big skis. The crampons weren't gripping onto anything with it being so powdery. I figured I'd be safer without them so I stopped and put them on my pack. I also stashed one of my poles and took my mountaineering axe off my pack. With my axe in one hand and my pole in the other, I started down, digging in my heels on the slide. Being the last in the line now and being back on the slide, I seldom postholed. My strategy seemed to be working very well. I was getting better traction by being able to dig in my heels.

All was going well until I got to that point. The Murphy's law of hiking ensured that if I was going to take a fall, it was going to be at the worst possible place and that's exactly what happened. As I was approaching that small ledge, I fell and went sliding toward the edge very quickly. I immediately dug in my heels and my axe, effectively performing a less-than-pretty-but-still-effective self arrest. So, now I was stopped with my axe well anchored and my heel against a rock at the edge of the ledge. Now to relax and get up. WSC had hung back to make sure I made it past that part and gave me a hand with regaining my feet. After that slide, crossing the ledge and decending other dicey parts seemed much easier. Once back at the bottom, I put my snowshoes back on and we headed out, getting back out to the Wilderness Trail just as we needed to put on headlamps.

With the snow and the darkness of the night, we couldn't see anything on out way out, other than the snow and eight other very weary climbers. I really can't do justice to how difficult this climb was and how harrowing it was at times. In fact the intensity of it all is already fading from my mind (gotta love that trail amnesia). However, I would say that this was one of, if not the single most difficult climbs I've even done. Harder than my winter climbs of Washington, Adams, Madison, the Bonds, Isolation... any of them by a long shot.

I really can't remember ever having to work so hard for a peak. On another day, with less snow, with things being packed out, it might not be so difficult and I recon I'll find that out someday, but for now all I can say is that this was a epic hike that none of us will soon forget.
 
Congratulations!! :) Surely this will be a hike to remember and one to talk about in later years :) Enjoyed the your TR.
kmac
 
Ross - amazing trip report. Yikes! What a story.

I am quite familiar with that ledge. Got stuck on that going downhill in pouring rain with boots that weren't gripping well. I made it by sitting and shimmying my butt across it, until I got past the steep drop. I can only imagine what it was like with snow and ice.

Glad you are OK.

Best regards,
Marty
 
OK, now you give me the creeps :eek: :D

We'll follow your tracks next Saturday, so a big heartfelt thanks for this TR - and for breaking the trail! -. It's gonna be a memorable way to complete my winter 115!

We'll bring on ice axes and maybe even a rope. Gosh, I didn't think Owl's Head was such a beast in winter!
 
Very awesome trip report, that mean old slide is crummy enough in the other three seasons :) Watch out for that Murphy's law! :)

Can't wait to go after this bad boy in the winter when the time comes :)
 
I have had success with ascending and descending the area about 50 feet into the woods to the north of the slide. In this case, it would be easier to climb up the slide, but it would be both safer and easier to descend through the trees. Sure it is steep, but you can hold onto the trees as you go down. You cannot get lost on the bushwhack down, either, since you come out at the trail next to Lincoln Brook eventually.

So many people are averse to bushwhacking, even if it means they have to make a treacherous descent down a steep, icy slide. The west side of Owls Head has generally open woods that are great for bushwhacking... give it a shot sometime, you will love it!
 
I'm glad you all had a safe hike and made it out safely. When I did Owl's Head I asked myself what it would be like to do in the winter, which my question is answered. While reading your TR I anticipated to read if you made it to the summit, which in these conditions is an accomplishment in its own right.
 
Owl's Head's Ledge

Congratulations. I recently hiked this in winter too, though it sounds like you had greater snow to content with, and I also know exactly which ledge you mean. Ridiculous as it was, I didn't bring my crampons that day and the only thing that kept me going forward on just snowshoes was the idea that under no circumstances would I be hiking down the same way. I would bushwhack or hike out through some other couldn't-have-cared-less how much longer way. I ended up just staying to the left just slightly in the woods for the descend. It was one of best hikes of the year yet though. Glad it turned out well for you, too.
 
Great Report!

We got sidetracked last weekend, and didn't make it up there as I had hoped. Plans are in place for this weekend instead. I plan to utilize all of your hard work to my benefit :D
 
Good report, I love that area but am saving Owls Head for last. It is a different type of peak and has a different feel and charactor. -Mattl
 
Great TR, Ross. Epic winter hike! How deep was the snow on the way up?? Did the Loon report relate well to snow on OH?

Sounds like you made the right decisions about gear on the way down. You managed at your comfort level and did a great job utilizing technique. Maybe O'Toole's Law had taken over... it reads simply: "Murphy, was an optomist."

What was the purpose of the sleds if you were only in for a day-hike (or am I reading this into the report)?
 
I've been to Owls Head 5 times in winter, sometimes a long slog but not as far as the Bonds and certainly not scary

albee said:
I have had success with ascending and descending the area about 50 feet into the woods to the north of the slide.
KR has a favorite route S of the slide. I have sometimes gone up the slide but then used the woods to the N coming down. There was an AMC trip in the early 70s when one person broke a collarbone and another a fibula coming down the slide so hikers of the next generation tended to avoid it.
So many people are averse to bushwhacking, even if it means they have to make a treacherous descent down a steep, icy slide. The west side of Owls Head has generally open woods that are great for bushwhacking... give it a shot sometime, you will love it!
The same is true of the E side, you can easily ski to within 2 miles of the summit on FB Trail, then just head up
 
RoySwkr said:
I've been to Owls Head 5 times in winter, sometimes a long slog but not as far as the Bonds and certainly not scary


Owls Head isn't scary.....a 100 foot uncontrolled descent of the slide all the while wondering how badly you're going to be hurt when you stop ....that's scary. :eek:
 
GlennS said:
RoySwkr said:
I've been to Owls Head 5 times in winter, sometimes a long slog but not as far as the Bonds and certainly not scary


Owls Head isn't scary.....a 100 foot uncontrolled descent of the slide all the while wondering how badly you're going to be hurt when you stop ....that's scary. :eek:

I was with Glenn when he slipped, and was certain that the third person and I were going be in for a major self rescue epic that day. Fortunately, Glenn only slightly twisted a knee, but the outcome could have been much worse. I still say that Owls Head is the most difficult and by far the most dangerous winter NH4 if you use the slide route. Brutus Rooney would have nothing to do with the slide, hence Kevin's alternate route about a half mile south.
 
To answer a few questions:

The purpose of the sled was simply to cut down on the number of miles with my pack on my back. It increased my speed on the way in and helped with fatigue on the way out.

When I stopped to take off my snowshoes, the rest of the group kept going. It took me a while to get them off and to stash them and one of my poles on my pack. Soon as I did, I hurried off so I wouldn't fall too far behind. Yes, I did have crampons and I put them on... after the fall. :eek:

We headed up the slide for a good ways before heading to our right and whacking, but that was tough going too as the snow was waist deep in places. The Loon forcast seemed ecessivecompared to what we saw on the unbroken FB trail. On the slide, it seemed like they lowballed it.

It was the combination of the snow depth, the steepness of the slide, and the impossiblity of getting good traction that made this so difficult. Stepping up often took multiple attepts for each step. On the way down, it was extremely difficult to remain in control on snowshoes.

I do think that this will be easier this weekend with our having broken things out and with the melting which will occur.
 
Thank you for the follow up. We are heading up there shortly.

As for falling on the slide, I did this myself one summer. The loose scree gave way, and I tumbeld maybe 30' or so. I landed on a ledge (the same ledge?) and just laid there for a few seconds, trying to find out what was broken. Eventually, my dog came up and starting licking my face. I realized other than a banged up, but not broken, thumb, I was fine.
 
Dr. Dasypodidae said:
I was with Glenn when he slipped, and was certain that the third person and I were going be in for a major self rescue epic that day.
Was he going up or down when he slipped?

I still say that Owls Head is the most difficult and by far the most dangerous winter NH4 if you use the slide route.

I was going to disagree vehemently and say that above treeline in bad weather is more dangerous, but then I've hiked in bad weather above treeline but never dared go down the Owls Head slide in winter so maybe I agree subconsciously :) On the other hand, I did climb Owls Head on a very cold day when it would have been far too dangerous above treeline.

I remember reading an article by a Western avalanche expert where he was horrified to watch some people climb a mountain by zigzagging across an valanche zone rather than up the side or avoiding it entirely, later he realized that what they were doing was following the summer trail which switchbacked up the slope instead of choosing an appropriate winter route. In the White Mountains, many trails just happened and weren't designed even for summer much less winter. People need to realize that following the trail is not necessarily the best or safest route. One of the trickier spots on the Beaver Brook Trail up Moosilauke has a bypass that is often broken out in preference to the trail, there is an obvious bypass climbing Wildcat from Glen Ellis, and of course the Owls Head slide can be bypassed. North Slide on Tripyramid is probably more dangerous than Owls Head slide in winter, but rarely done because there are good options. The Forest Service still has a summer mentality and usually doesn't consider how trails are in winter.
 
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