Paddling across Lake Ontario

[ALGonquin Bob]

Been doing more paddling than hiking lately. Earlier this week a friend and I paddled our 17-foot sea kayaks over 30 miles across western Lake Ontario from a town in Ontario (at the mouth of the Niagara River) called Niagara-on-the-Lake (aka NOTL) to Toronto, Ontario. We drove up from Buffalo and cleared Customs before launching. Here's my story:
Through the efforts of friends who dropped us off or picked us up (Jim S. – NOTL, and Pete L. – Toronto), Patti Z. and I launched at 9PM last night (Tuesday from Niagara-on-the-Lake) onto beautiful calm water that reflected the warm colours of the low sun, even well past sunset. We had a clear visual of the Toronto skyline all the way, with the city’s glow making it possible to see the water as we paddled a straight line course, approx. NNW, toward the CN Tower. We arrived at the Toronto Harbourfront Canoe & Kayak Centre at 9 this morning (34 miles in 12 hours), with the only stop being after 32 miles, when we got out at a beach adjacent to the Toronto Island airport. On our all night kayak trip, we watched the sunset from NOTL, saw the stars come out, watched a meteorite streak high and in front of us, and saw the moon rise. The nearly half-moon rose over our right shoulders, and came up as an orange orb, gradually rising and becoming brighter. About 8 miles north of NOTL, the flat water began to get choppy, gradually building into the predicted 10 knot headwind. The wind produced half-meter waves, and occasionally produced sets of larger waves about 2 feet in height. The larger waves would have been more fun if we weren’t still over 20 miles from our goal at night and in the dark. As we paddled in the center of western Lake Ontario,, I saw a small, dark shape dead ahead, and startled an apparently sleeping gull as I paddled within a foot or so of it. The bird took off suddenly, brushing its wings against my paddle blade, and flying across Patti's kayak in front of her face. We watched the sunrise while we approached Toronto, with the head wind persisting for most of the remaining 26 miles, only fading as we paddled close to the Ontario mainland in the city. Finally, we entered Toronto harbor and paddled our kayaks to the outfitter who had invited me to take out at his place of business. Harbourfront Canoe & Kayak had a nice carpeted ramp, and we were able paddle right up onto the green carpet to end our journey. Pete was there waiting for us as we celebrated and packed up our wet gear. It was a lot of hard work; I’m glad we did it, but that was the first and last annual trip from NOTL to TO! – Bob

 

[ALGonquin Bob]

Photos

Here are a few photos I shot along the way
PHOTOS*
http://tinyurl.com/NOTL2TO-12

 

[Stan]

Nice going! Congratulations! Gutsy.

With that headwind, a prevailing wind I presume, had you considered TO to NOTL? I'd be interested in knowing what kind of boats they are, how you outfitted them since there's no getting out to open a hatch, was there much boat or shipping traffic, what did you carry for communications ... and what you craved most when you arrived?

So ... ummm ... after this, what do you do for an encore?

 

[AMF]

Nice trip... interesting how there are those trips one always is glad to have done once, and once only! I presume you have read some of the Lake Michigan crossing report?

amf

ps - love the sunrise pics

 

[ALGonquin Bob]

Nice going! Congratulations! Gutsy. With that headwind, a prevailing wind I presume, had you considered TO to NOTL? I'd be interested in knowing what kind of boats they are, how you outfitted them since there's no getting out to open a hatch, was there much boat or shipping traffic, what did you carry for communications ... and what you craved most when you arrived? So ... ummm ... after this, what do you do for an encore?

Thank you. Didn't consider a southerly Toronto to NOTL paddle because paddling north to Toronto is much more interesting than paddling back home, the visibility was much better at night to paddle toward the highly visible big city skyline and it's glow, the CN Tower is a great landmark to aim for (we finished directly in front of it), and it's much easier to paddle into waves than to constantly fight for control in a following sea.

We paddled in 17-foot Boreal sea kayaks (a poly Inukshuk and a Kevlar Alvik with rudders). We each wore neoprene shirts, spray skirts, had paddle jackets available, and carried the usual safety gear (spare paddle, paddle float, stirrup for re-entry, tow rope rig, throw bag, and bilge pump); I also had a SPOT satellite messenger & cell phone. My intent was to bring my VHF marine radio (ship-to-ship, Coast Guard, NOAA) but forgot it at home on the charger (note to self: use the checklist!). Everything we were likely to need was in our life jacket, on the fore deck, in the cockpit, or behind us accessible by the other paddler, with the hatches containing tie-down lines, food, and clothing for the trip back by car…. and a bottle of NYS champagne. My supplies included a half-dozen peppered up hard-boiled eggs, 2 qts. Of Gatorade “G”, 24 oz. or so of OJ, and 12 oz. of Carnation Instant Breakfast w/milk. I drank the Gatorade and OJ on the water and didn’t eat anything until we took out in Toronto. I was well-hydrated leading up to the launch, and didn’t need to use my pee bottle at all (thanks to mild dehydration). My energy level was good all the way, with my only problem being blistered hands that I ultimately relieved by putting on gloves after 30 miles or so. My friend seemed to “hit the wall” with about 10 miles to go, so we stopped for her to eat, drink, and rest a little. Despite lack of sleep, we stayed alert all the way, with the wind and waves in our face helping the cause. Once safely landed, I popped the champagne and the 3 of us shared in the celebration. I didn’t feel tired until we loaded and sat in the car; we both slept soundly on the 90-minute ride back home.

As for boat traffic, it was surprisingly light. A freighter passed by miles in front of us as we were launching, a boat was visible a mile or more to our left during the night, and a large well-lit ship (freighter?) exited the area around Toronto harbor just before sunrise. The horizon and waters ahead of us were lit by the big city lights, but the lake and sky next to and behind us blended together, and would have been very difficult to paddle toward.
I wasn’t hungry at all when we finished, and drank the champagne mostly out of a sense of obligation, because I only craved rest! The three of us had lunch after we drove back home, then I wrote my TR, posted photos, and crashed on the couch. We had planned on another Tobermory/Georgian Bay adventure this weekend (did a 65-mile island hopping tour last July), but had to cancel for family obligations. My next trip will be a laid-back camping weekend on Cranberry Lake. I’m also part of a Buffalo-based war (voyageur) canoe team that is training to compete in this September’s Adirondack Canoe Classic (90-Miler). I think that’s enough for now!

 

[ALGonquin Bob]

Nice trip... interesting how there are those trips one always is glad to have done once, and once only! I presume you have read some of the Lake Michigan crossing report?

amf

ps - love the sunrise pics

I appreciate the feedback. I also paddled twice consecutively around Grand Island in the Niagara River 3 years ago, for a total of 50 miles in a day, and that was also the last annual "GI-50". In my research, I looked for other Lake Ontario crossing info and found just 2 references on line. I did not read about any other Great Lakes crossings, but would be interested in doing so.

 

[Stan]

Even vicariously, I have enjoyed this trip tremendously. Thanks.

 

[Jay H]

Cool, sounds like a fun trip, and bonus for not getting flattened by a tanker...

Jay

 

[Nessmuk]

I’m also part of a Buffalo-based war (voyageur) canoe team that is training to compete in this September’s Adirondack Canoe Classic (90-Miler). I think that’s enough for now!

Nice report on your accomplishment - Congratulations on the lake crossing trip. Paddling in the calm of night is something I enjoy doing, and IMO beginning at midnight is the best time to start the Cannonball-90. You should try that too. I have paddled the Classic-90 many years in a Voyageur. Hope to see you there in September. By the way, if the bug hits you, we are always looking to build crews to return to the Yukon for a couple of very much longer races up there in the voyageur.

 

[ALGonquin Bob]

Nice report on your accomplishment - Congratulations on the lake crossing trip. Paddling in the calm of night is something I enjoy doing, and IMO beginning at midnight is the best time to start the Cannonball-90. You should try that too. I have paddled the Classic-90 many years in a Voyageur. Hope to see you there in September. By the way, if the bug hits you, we are always looking to build crews to return to the Yukon for a couple of very much longer races up there in the voyageur.

Thanks. I did the Cannonball route as a weekend trip in 2010, but would like to give it a "shot" in one day sometime. The Yukon? I am familiar with those races, and you have my attention!

 

[Paradox]

Wow, big lake, quite an accomplishment! I've sailed across Ontario on a 30' boat a couple of times at night. Even with 7 crew members, I too was totally exhausted at the end.

 

[coldfeet]

Wow, pretty cool trip and loved those pics. Hope to meet up with you and paddle a short trip one day.

 

[coldfeet]

Forgot to tell you that Jay and I helped out with some volunteer work last Sunday for the NFCT. We helped with a section of trail between the Upper Raquette Falls and the lower section. My friend Ray signed up and their team built a huge retaining wall on a slippery rock section, then on Sunday we helped fill in the new 2-3ft wide added section with small rocks, large rocks, busted rocks and soil, lots of soil. One day I hope to try the 90 miler but I really have to work on my paddling form and use less arms and more torso. Enjoy, I'll send Jay the pic, maybe he can post it here.

 

[AMF]

... I did not read about any other Great Lakes crossings, but would be interested in doing so.

Some links from CASKA on Lake Michigan crossings. Interesting tales, and one of the solo! Don't think I'll be rushing out to plan a similar crossing!

http://caskaorg.typepad.com/caska/2009/07/lake-michigan-crossing-report.html

http://caskaorg.typepad.com/caska/2007/08/john-martins-so.html

 

[Jay H]

Photos from Coldfeet

Posting this of Coldfeet's and I along with the 2012 NFCT interns at the Raquette Falls portage work trip 2 weekends ago..







Nice worktrip where they replaces a bridge close to the beach at the lower falls and built a rockwall to replace a slippery rock that was a slip hazard and did some other work around the area. Coldfeet and I only helped out on Sunday but did what we could to assist.

Jay

 

[Nessmuk]

Posting this of Coldfeet's and I along with the 2012 NFCT interns at the Raquette Falls portage work trip 2 weekends ago..

View attachment 3942

View attachment 3943

View attachment 3944

Nice worktrip where they replaces a bridge close to the beach at the lower falls and built a rockwall to replace a slippery rock that was a slip hazard and did some other work around the area. Coldfeet and I only helped out on Sunday but did what we could to assist.

Jay

Jay and CF, thank you so much for the hard work. Anyone who has ever done that carry trail will be extremely appreciative. Going solo or with another boat was difficult enough, not to mention dangerous, on the initial ascent. Imagine what it is like when there are a dozen or more boats all rushing to get up the trail at the same time during bottlenecks of the 90-miler.

Thanks again... and good to see Gary helping out in one of the photos also.

 

[ALGonquin Bob]

Jay and David - Good work on the Raquette Falls carry! I'll get a glimpse of it when I run (more likely walk fast) on that trail in the 90-Miler. There is quite a bottleneck at the landing and stone stairs at the beach, with dozens of paddlers and boats all trying to hustle up that trail. Hope to paddle with you sometime. Thanks!

AMF - I appreciate the links. I have researched the CASKA blog for my Georgian Bay trips, and used their TR when I expanded on their trip last year for my 65-mile island-hopping tour from Tobermory, around the bay, and back. Thank you.

 

[Jay H]

thanks AB/Nessmuk, the big thanks would have to go to the NFCT interns et al who i think were there from Wed-Sun working on various projects. Gary is a great person who shows passion in his job and is a real assett. The section of bridge that was replaced, shouldn't affect the 90-miler as that is just south of the putin past the lower falls and is more on the horse trail but the rock wall should make things safer. I don't know exactly what work was done on the stairs from the take out at the Upper falls.. You might find pictures at the NFCT website or facebook page... They did some work before CF and I got there..

Jay

 

[ALGonquin Bob]

Inversion

Lake Ontario recently inverted, meaning the warm water on top and cold deeper water flip-flopped, dropping the surface water from 72 degrees to about 50F. These kids and councilors should not have ventured that far from shore.
"Kayakers rescued in Lake Ontario"
http://www.buffalonews.com/city/communities/niagara-county/article962237.ece

 

[coldfeet]

Your welcome guys, glad my friend Ray (Waterspyder, paddling.net) was there for me to visit with Jay. The water level was really low at the put in at Lower Falls, wonder if all this rain helped out up there, enjoy rest of summer. I'm going back up the late August with Indian Chris.