Pimp my new/old Karhus

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una_dogger said:
Got the Silvy 404s today, they are in excellent condition...but not sure if they will fit *my* Koflach's. If anyone is looking for a pair of these bindings, shoot me a PM. :(
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The 404 came in different sizes. Basically the only difference is the length of the Rails which need to be appropriate for the length of your boot. If you got the Manual with your Bindings there is a sizing chart contained with the Mounting Instructions. Rick at IME or Dennis at Ragged Mt. would be able to look at the Boot/Binding to see if you are sized properly.
 
Just had to rub the faces of the scoffers in the snow with an update. :p

Had these skis out yesterday with renovated Rottefella 412 bindings on them. (Renovation consisted of installing new front throws and new cables with springs.) Used Swix Ice Klister on top of Rode Cholla for grip and Swix Polar for glide – grip and glide were fantastic.

I found this photo from 1988, from the Canadian – Soviet "Polar Bridge" expedition to the North Pole. Warms my heart just looking at the skis being put to good use. Note the Berwin bindings. :D

Karhu XCD Equipes
 
I have 2 pairs of metal edged Karhu Kodiaks, one set waxable and one set no wax. I think 185s.
I'd be happy to donate the waxable pair to someone who'd promise to use them. Comes with the Rottefeller binding with the red bail.

I could bring them to Boston area some time when we're visiting Pat and Audrey.

Alan
 
I scored a pair of brand new Canadian Army skis (still in the wrappers) at the Cascade Ski Centre near Lake Placid for 60$. They are made by Karhu, have full length metal edges and minimal sidecut. I took the Silvretta 500's off the G3's and put them on. I have an old (mid 70's) pair of strap-on, US Army skins and replaced the toeloop with G3 metal hoops. They are sweet and have enough cambre to boogy with a kick wax. I put Dynafits on the G3's. Ski-ing is over for me now (rugby neck - no regrets) and shipped the skis, 2 piece Gabel Poles and Dynafit boots (we wear the same size and the liners are heat molded) to BC where she'll get better use of them.
 
sardog1 said:
So, I'm shopping for wax yesterday and off in a dimly lit bargain corner, a garish yellow catches my eye. It's a pair of Karhu XCD Equipes -- single camber, full metal along the sides, 212 cm, about 60/55/56, and the bases look like they've been swaddled in skins almost any time that they've been used. I'd tell you what I paid for them, but you'd just cry if you heard. Okay, I can't resist: A single sawbuck. Thass right -- count to ten and stop. :D:D:D

The quiver here already has:
  • Karhu Kodiak Kinetics (great on snowmobile trails, a little wanting on untracked deep stuff)
  • Black Diamond Boundaries with Hammerheads that cradle my Asolo Extremes very nicely and are great for untracked forays in the deep stuff in the woods and the semi-steep, occasionally icy stuff (don't start on me, Metsky ;) )
  • Fischer Ultra Tours with the first generation Salomon binding that are good for any groomed tracks that I might stumble upon
  • hand-me-down Rossis with the same Salomon binding that I use for skating when the urge hits. (Which is not nearly so often as it seems to do around Waterville Valley with some frequency).
So, what to use for bindings on my new friends? I'm thinking robust camping ski plus day trips off the beaten path. Candidates under consideration include:

Rottefella Super Telemark -- currently on my Karhu Kodiak Kinetics and my all-time favorite binding

Rottefella Super Telemark with the front-throw cable -- if I can find any.

Voile counterparts to the two above.

Rottefella NATO 120 -- This is the NATO binding with the front-throw cable, not the cable that's tensioned on the side of the heel. I could use my plastic double mountaineering boots. I don't have any serious hope of finding these on this side of the Atlantic, it seems.

Something else that you can recommend? My foot has to pivot nicely for striding, and the binding must be "relatively" light in weight. Releasability is not much of a factor, if any, for me. Cost is a very big deal.
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I would (and do) go with the Super Telemark and don't look back. While the Voile's offer a teeny bit more active of a clamp, IMO that only makes sense if you plan on using the skis for turns. I keep Voile pins on my (non-releasable) Monashees (90/70/80; skied with Extremes in great snow, with light plastics otherwise) and on all my lift served rigs (Voile plates). But for touring with leathers, the easier in and out of the STs is a huge win, as is the better touring. My all time favorite binding.

Personally I see zero reason for cables. Zero. They add next nothing in terms of reliability in the case of a broken bail. IMO, they are only a fix for a boot sole that is so badly cracked that pins won't retain it. I think this was a problem of yesterday when plastic midsoles were bad. I've never once experienced it or even seen it other than cheap, crappy injected welted XC boots.

If the trip is super committing, I'll carry a spare pair of bindings in my pack. My wax kit always has a t-handled ratcheting driver and a hex drill bit for drilling out new holes for a get me home new mount. This said, I've never seen a ST (or Voile pins) fail. Repeated skiing in highly rockered plastic boots will bust binding over time from the harsh upwards pressure (usually rip out the lead screw first, imo) but that's not what you're talking about here with your Extremes.
 
First, I know nothing about Xc skis. But was thinking of getting into it if for nothing else, some of the longer level winter walk ins or some local winter exercise. And reading these old post is Greek to me (or is it French or Norwegian). Anyway I saw a cheap pair (10$) in a used furniture store and picked them up. They are Drover
Equipe step (190m67700 if that means anything) design by p. Simmon made in Italy with Dovre 75 mm Nordic norm bindings made in USA (and no I don't know what any of that means). They seem to have had little to no usage. So are these worth while to look into getting bindings and/or shoes for or are they junk?
 
1SlowHiker said:
First, I know nothing about Xc skis. But was thinking of getting into it if for nothing else, some of the longer level winter walk ins or some local winter exercise. And reading these old post is Greek to me (or is it French or Norwegian). Anyway I saw a cheap pair (10$) in a used furniture store and picked them up. They are Drover
Equipe step (190m67700 if that means anything) design by p. Simmon made in Italy with Dovre 75 mm Nordic norm bindings made in USA (and no I don't know what any of that means). They seem to have had little to no usage. So are these worth while to look into getting bindings and/or shoes for or are they junk?
Click to expand...

Sounds like you've probably found a fairly old pair of what are called "non-wax" skis. I don't recognize the brand. If the bottom has a texture under the middle part, you won't need to concern yourself with waxing for grip. You will want to apply glide wax to the areas on the rest of the ski that are not textured to improve glide and protect the plastic.

The bindings will fit practically any 75 mm boot with three holes in the sole (the width measured across the line of the three holes). You can find lots of such boots on eBay and in stores that sell cross country equipment.

You'll need poles that are fitted to you. This is done by placing the pole upright under your armpit. It's less painful if the tip is on the floor and the handle under your armpit. If the pole just fits there comfortably, it's the right length.

Skis are sized according to weight these days. These might be a little short at 190 cm to give you good glide, but they'll be relatively easier to maneuver. If you start drinking the Kool Aid as heavily as some of us here, you'll figure that out as time goes by. Meanwhile, get out there while we still have snow and have some fun! It's like tennis – your enjoyment is directly proportional to the time you spend practicing, so long as you get some good coaching at the start. Find an avid cross country skier and ask for some on-snow advice.
 
sardog1 said:
Sounds like you've probably found a fairly old pair of what are called "non-wax" skis. I don't recognize the brand. If the bottom has a texture under the middle part, you won't need to concern yourself with waxing for grip.
.
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yes that's exactly what the bottom is. Does that mean I don't have to worry about skins (which look like they cost 10 times what I paid for the skis with bindings) To late this year but this may be a good spring project getting cheap boots to try them out. Thanks
 
sardog1 said:
You'll need poles that are fitted to you. This is done by placing the pole upright under your armpit. It's less painful if the tip is on the floor and the handle under your armpit. If the pole just fits there comfortably, it's the right length.
Click to expand...
You can also use adjustable length poles such as trekking poles with snow baskets. I often adjust my pole length to match the conditions.

Find an avid cross country skier and ask for some on-snow advice.
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Or go to a commercial XC ski area and take a lesson--a good start will go a long way. Also some practice at a commercial area with groomed trails can help you to learn the basic techniques. (Just for the record, ski technique in soft snow can be different, but the groomed trails can be a good start.)

1SlowHiker said:
yes that's exactly what the bottom is. Does that mean I don't have to worry about skins (which look like they cost 10 times what I paid for the skis with bindings)
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Waxless skis (generally patterned bases these days) do not grip nearly as well as skins. Skins work much better (and save energy) on steeper climbs. (BTW, waxable skis also often outgrip waxless skis--I often wax my waxless skis to improve performance in appropriate snow conditions.)

BTW, there are a number of past threads on choosing and using XC skis. You are likely to find them to be worth searching out.

Doug
 
1SlowHiker said:
Does that mean I don't have to worry about skins (which look like they cost 10 times what I paid for the skis with bindings) To late this year but this may be a good spring project getting cheap boots to try them out. Thanks
Click to expand...

It all depends on what you want to climb. If you are just going to be touring on relatively gentle terrain, the waxless base will be fine. If you want to climb steep trails then they'll be frustrating and/or inefficient. You may have to sidestep, herringbone, or otherwise use a lot more energy. But those skis aren't really designed for descending steep terrain and you don't appear to be heading out in order to earn your turns so I don't think it's an issue.

Skis like that are best for covering long distances at relatively fast pace, without too much turning required.
 
1SlowHiker said:
First, I know nothing about Xc skis. But was thinking of getting into it if for nothing else, some of the longer level winter walk ins or some local winter exercise. And reading these old post is Greek to me (or is it French or Norwegian). Anyway I saw a cheap pair (10$) in a used furniture store and picked them up. They are Drover
Equipe step (190m67700 if that means anything) design by p. Simmon made in Italy with Dovre 75 mm Nordic norm bindings made in USA (and no I don't know what any of that means). They seem to have had little to no usage. So are these worth while to look into getting bindings and/or shoes for or are they junk?
Click to expand...

Marvin,

For $10, it's hard to say no. But... Craigslist is full of used gear right in this price range that may work better for you.

Two questions...

1) Have you skied in any way shape or form before and if so, what type and how much?

2) What kind of skiing do you aspire to? Local golf courses & parks near home, more remote cross-country in the backcountry or turn oriented trips in the backcountry.

Suggested starting for equipment:
http://home.comcast.net/~pinnah/DirtbagPinner/quick-picks.html

If you are an expert downhill skier or have never been on skis before, I can't strongly enough taking at least 1 lesson at a Nordic touring center. Head north, get a lesson under your belt, and a lot of the equipment discussions will make a lot more sense right away.

To answer some of the questions floating around in the thread...

1) Skis sound like no-wax touring skis, perfect for general XC use. But, at 190, they may well be too short most adult males. XC skis are sized by weight. I'm 180lbs and ski a 210cm +/- for a traditional ski. If the skis are designed as a "compact" (very doubtful given the binding) then 190 would be ok.

2) Consider the bindings as disposable. Find boots that are supportive enough for you and that fit you. Generally I recommend light "backcountry" boots for recreatinoal skiers. BC means, "better control".

3) Don't worry about skins at all. It's really about skiing for turns.

4) If you're planning on skiing in RI, I would recommend no-wax skis (patterns on the bases).

Hope this helps,
 
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