Recommended Backpacking Trips in Adirondacks?

[Stuart]

This August will be my first trip to the Adirondacks. Will be backpacking for 3-5 days. Interested in suggestions for the best routes in the High Peaks Region. Would appreciate any feedback. Thank you.

 

[audrey]

Stuart, are you peakbagging or just out for a delightful stroll? Personally, I like the peripheral routes: the Dixes, Santanonis, Sewards. You can put together lots of good 3 to 5 day trips. In August the Lake Colden/Flowed Lands area is a zoo.

It also depends on whether you can spot cars.

 

[Peakbagr]

How much solitude, mileage and ascent would you like?
Nice trip is back into the Cold River country.
Another would be a backpack from Elk Lake to Panther Gorge, and then up onto the Range trail and out through the John's Brook Valley.
You could also do a section of the Northville-Placid trail, perhaps from the Upper Works to Lake Placid. 2 cars or a ride necessary for any unless you did and out and back.
Lots more options depending on the original criteria.

 

[DSettahr]

The most obvious beginner's/first timers destinations are the John's Brook Area, Marcy Dam, and Lake Colden/Flowed Lands. You can easily set up a base camp at any of those destinations and day hike high peaks from it.

However, as has been stated, these areas can be a zoo during weekends in August, with large crowds camped there. However, you state that you might be out for up to 5 days- which would mean that you would be spending at least a few week days there. During week days you can still expect to see some people at these areas, but you won't get the crowds that show up on the weekends.

Keep in mind too, that you can only spend three consecutive nights in one campsite/lean-to in the Adirondacks before you have to vacate it- so on a five day trip, you wouldn't legally be able to camp in the same area all four nights.

If you want to avoid crowds but still climb peaks, there are other areas in the High Peaks that receive significantly less use. Giant Mountain from the north gets very little use, and there is a lean-to to stay at (about 9 miles from the trailhead). The Dix Range, the Santanoni Range, and the Seward Range all receive less use than the Eastern High Peaks, but bear in mind that some of the trails in these ranges are unmarked. Some careful planning and research in advance before visiting these areas is necessary, as well as knowledge of bushwhacking and compass/GPS navigation (the unmarked trails aren't too hard to follow, but know how to find your way just in case you lose them).

If you're ok without climbing high peaks, but still want to visit the high peaks region, a five day trip along the Northville-Placid Trail from Long Lake to Lake Placid is a very nice trip, and will take you through the Cold River area, one of the most remote areas of the Adirondacks. Even on a weekend, you'd be unlikely to encounter a significant number of people in the Cold River area- it's just too far a hike for most people to easily reach on a 2 night weekend trip.

There are also plenty of other options available inside the Adirondack Park but outside of the High Peaks, with significantly less crowds. If you're interested in at least hearing about some of your other options, I'd be happy to list some information about them.

 

[DSettahr]

Also, don't forget, you need to carry a bear canister in the Eastern High Peaks (basically the area encompassing the vicinity Johns Brook, Lake Colden, Flowed Lands, and Marcy Dam, and the surrounding mountains. If you don't own one, there are places in Keene Valley and Lake Placid that rent them.

 

[Jay H]

Pharoah Lakes Wilderness.. Close enough to the High Peaks to be central, far enough from the high peaks to be quiet. Some nice small peaks in the area too and some nice leantos and hiking, and even an ocean.

Jay

 

[DSettahr]

Pharoah Lakes Wilderness.. Close enough to the High Peaks to be central, far enough from the high peaks to be quiet. Some nice small peaks in the area too and some nice leantos and hiking, and even an ocean.

Jay

The western shore of Pharaoh Lake is quite popular, and can get crowded on weekends. If you're willing to hike around to the eastern shore, however, you can usually avoid the crowds. The rest of the wilderness area, with the exception of Putnum Pond (as there is a DEC Campground there) is generally pretty quiet and a nice destination. Like Jay said, a couple of nice peaks with decent views, and lots of remote ponds with lean-tos.

 

[Viewseeker]

I'd say Cold River area from Coreys road or Long Lake(NPT) to Duck Hole maybe, or from upper works to lake colden and can loop back thru Hanging Spear to gorge lean-to. side trip to mt. Adams.. Something close but little farther from HPs' is the Cranberry 50 around the lake. Good luck and best of weather

 

[JoeCedar]

The Sewards 33 Loop

A few years ago I did this with my daughter:

From the Corey's road trailhead, take the Calkins Brook horse trail to the Cold River, meet up with the NPT northbound. At Mountain Pond, turn NW up the Ward Brook road and back to the trailhead. Plenty of opportunities to climb the Sewards, if you want to as day trips, as well as a worthwhile side trip to Duck Hole or Preston Ponds.

 

[Neil]

What are your priorities? 360 degree views from summits? Maximum possible number of peaks bagged? Solitude? A through-hike (or multi-night loop). Base camp with day hiking? Other people around? Deer flies? Mud?

Actually, in August there should be less bugs and it might be drier.

Late August? If so, bring hat and gloves.

 

[DSettahr]

Late August? If so, bring hat and gloves.

I always carry long underwear, hat, and gloves on overnight trips in the summer. After four summers of backpacking regularly as part of my various summer jobs (and a fifth one ahead of me!), I've slept through way too many unexpectedly chilly nights to not to carry some emergency layers on all overnight trips.

In late August every year, there is always a couple of nights where the temperature drops below freezing.

I have a nice lightweight 35 degree bag, packs down small, but it only comes out for the three months between Memorial Day and Labor Day. Even then, I've spent some cold nights in the 35 degree bag in late August, and so I generally carry a sleeping bag liner as well.

Before Memorial Day and after Labor Day, I carry a 5 degree bag. Haven't always needed it, but there were enough times that I did that I always carry it in spring and fall.

 

[Trail Boss]

... a five day trip along the Northville-Placid Trail from Long Lake to Lake Placid is a very nice trip, and will take you through the Cold River area, one of the most remote areas of the Adirondacks. ...

I second that; did it many years ago and it was an excellent trip. Unlike the High Peaks, you'll find solitude along the Cold River.

Of course, it all depends on what kind of trip you want. A long through-trip, a base-camp with side-trips, mostly level hiking, lots of peaks, etc. What's your preference?

For example, here's a loop trip I did with some friends 20 years ago. It was April and we set out from South Meadows due east to Mt. Van Hoevenberg but not to do the summit but rather to bushwhack across to the trail that goes up Cascade. From Cascade over Porter and Little Porter down into the Gardens. Then to Johns Brook Lodge via the Brothers, Big Slide and Yard. Then up to Marcy where we camped on snow just below the summit (I believe current regulations make this verboten) and finally back to South Meadows via Marcy Dam. As I recall, we spent four days enjoying great weather, excellent scenery, and no bugs. I remember two camp sites (one was near the trail to Cascade and the other on Marcy) and the other one must have been near Johns Brook but I don't remember it.

 

[Stuart]

Thank you for all your ideas!

I just wanted to let everyone know that I appreciate all the thoughtful replies. The talk of crowds inspired us to move our trip to September. Thanks again, VFTT folks.

 

[1ADAM12]

Even in September the the leaves start changing and will be a lot of people in the high peaks. Go to more of the less populated area if you want solitude! Duck Hole is a must and the fishing is GREAT!

 

[Paradox]

I'll keep this question in this thread. I am considering doing the Sewards +/or tha Santanonies and staying in one of the leantos. Does anyone have any tips for using the leanto's. Do you carry anything to thwart the mice, bugs, wet floors, etc.?

 

[Peakbagr]

Tarp for the part of the leanto floor you're occupying. Leave no food in your pack and pack pockets open in case you've kept food in them so the critters can walk in instead of eating their way in to check the residual food smell. Cook away from the leanto.
You probably already know this, but posted just in case.
I've had mice run over my face and sleeping bag during the night. No big deal unless its the kind of thing that freaks you.

 

[Trail Boss]

When it comes to sleeping in a lean-to, keeping the bugs at bay is key to retaining your sanity.

When I hiked the northern section of the Northville-Placid trail (20 years ago), I slept in lean-tos. I had made a body-length tube of bug netting and slipped into it, sleeping bag and all. I tied the head-end of the tube to the back wall of the lean-to to keep the netting off of my face while I slept. Not really a tent, so it skirts the rule forbidding tents within a lean-to.

It works well but not if you are claustrophobic (getting in and out of it takes a bit of time). The only con is if the netting settles on your face while you sleep. A black fly bit me on the lip and it felt like it had been anaesthetized!

PS
At the time, I couldn't find a source of proper bug netting so I used tulle ... that's the stuff used for wedding veils. If you plan to make one, and want a conversation piece, I recommend you make it from tulle.

 

[ColdRiverRun]

I'll keep this question in this thread. I am considering doing the Sewards +/or tha Santanonies and staying in one of the leantos. Does anyone have any tips for using the leanto's. Do you carry anything to thwart the mice, bugs, wet floors, etc.?

All 4 of the leantos to the North of the Seward range have been replaced/repaired in the last year. The areas have been cleared and cleaned out underneath. The mice haven't invaded yet since they were cleaned out underneath and sealed through the tops. I stayed at the twin #4 leantos (as there called) two weekends ago and they were great.

 

[bignslow]

All 4 of the leantos to the North of the Seward range have been replaced/repaired in the last year. The areas have been cleared and cleaned out underneath. The mice haven't invaded yet since they were cleaned out underneath and sealed through the tops. I stayed at the twin #4 leantos (as there called) two weekends ago and they were great.

That is one of my favorite leantos. We walked past blueberry (full, tons of tents), ward brook (full, tons of tents), when we arrived at camp 4 we had both leantos all to ourselves all weekend.

 

[TCD]

I agree with Adam, don't miss Duck Hole.

And BigNSlow, Ellen and I had the same experience. As soon as you are off the shortest path to a 46, the crowds vanish. We had a great time doing the Sewards from Duck Hole one year. We hiked over without meeting anyone, and headed up onto the peaks. We met a crowd of nice people on the ridge, and chatted with them on and off. When we got down to Ward Brook, this very big crowd (~20 total in several groups) all turned and headed for the parking. We said our farewells and turned the OTHER WAY, hiking INTO the woods to our "home" at Duck Hole. That was a great feeling.

We camped at Duck Hole every Labor Day from 99 - 03, and really love it. We really enjoyed revisiting it in 06 when we did the NP; we planned our trip to make sure to stay there.

TCD