Sam's Point Preserve

MattC · Nov 14, 2004

For my first time at Sam's Point Preserve, I tried to hit most of the significant spots. I got a late start, and didn't spend as much time anywhere as I would have liked, and also blew off one side trip, to Indian Rock. It was a great hike anyhow.The famous dwarf pine of this area is definitely a sight worth seeing, and there are also quite a few outstanding views.

There was just enough snow to make everything look nice, and almost no ice. I had galoshes around my Lowas, and waterproof pants pulled down around the boots gaiter-style. I had the crampons in my pack, just in case, and there they stayed. I saved the Point itself for the return, going to the Ice Caves first. Not a great deal of ice, but the caves were a fun little side trip nonetheless. I then took the Verkeerder Kill Falls Trail. The area where the dwarf pine breaks into open hardwoods was very wet and at one point I stepped right in a deep puddle which had been obscured by leaves. Fortunately all the stuff on my foot kept it dry. Next I headed up to High Point, which offers fantastic views of our beloved Catskills. Overlook and the DP peaks over to Ashokan High Point, Slide, Peekamoose and points west. One can also see a little bit of what I believe is the Rondout Reservoir. And of course, there are also views along the ridge to Sky Top. I wanted to stay here longer, but the sun was rapidly sinking and the wind was blasting away.

It's just a quick jaunt from High Point back down to the Carriageway, and I made quick time on the way back. The only downside was that I was walking southwest in the late afternoon on a very sunny day with only short trees around-you do the math. Lake Maratanza had just a little ice skin on the corner near the Loop Road. Finally at the end of my return trip, I hit Sam's Point itself, which is off a short spur not far from the trailhead. There are two walled-in lookout areas with another tremendous view. I don't know what I'm looking at when I look south from the 'Gunks-maybe you Jersey folks can help me out here. Anyhow, the wind was absolutely pummeling Sam's Point, so I didn't hang out too long. The lower of the two lookouts had some ice on the steps, about the only solid ice I saw the whole time.

The season's first snow in no way made footings or anything else difficult in this area. For anyone who hasn't been here, I highly recommend it. The 'Gunks aren't terribly challenging, and at only 1500'-2200' they certainly aren't about peak-bagging. However, they well worth visiting due to the unique geology, beautiful forests and amazing views. The trails range from easy carriageways and roads to rougher, narrower stuff, to some great rock scrambling routes (these are mostly at the other end, near Lake Mohonk/Sky Top). Great place to bring someone who doesn't hike a lot (including kids), but experienced hikers will find a lot here too.

Jay H · Nov 15, 2004

Sam's Point is a really cool place, it's kind of like Minnewaska without all the people! Shhh, don't tell anybody. The Nature Conservatory bought a bunch of the land and there's a sign at the trailhead as well as a honor-system parking pass setup there.

From Sam's Point itself, you can see both NJ and the Catskills as you have mentioned. On a clear day, with some pocket binoculars, you should easily pick out the High Point Monument which is in the NW corner of NJ.

As far as the hiking, VerKeerderKill falls is spectacular and the loop that it sounds like you did is very nice.

Lake TonyDanza... errh I mean Maratanza

is a popular spot for summer folks and theres remnents of old (Ukrainian?) blueberry picking shacks on one side of the lake.

There's also remnents of an old firetower on the high point.

Did you check out the ice caves???????????? Everybody goes to the ice caves, bring your crampons cause some of the chutes are shaded and be full of ice.

Jay

Rick · Nov 15, 2004

The last time I was there was about 2 years ago and I agree it is a wonderful place. I found SPPP to be a quiet area to bring the 3-wheel runner/stroller and roll around with our little one who was between 1 and 2.5 years old - especially when he could get out and "run" ahead of us on the old roads.

Mark Schaefer · Nov 15, 2004

Sam's Point is named for Samuel Gonsalus. In 1758 according to legend while being chased by Indians he leapt from the cliff and survived by landing in a clump of Hemlocks. The story can be read here. The ice caves near Sam's Point were formerly operated as the commercial "Ice Caves Mountain". They are well worth a visit. The larger attraction is the "Greater Ice Caves" which are located above the Smiley Road trail. This starts from a village park on Berme Road in Ellenville. Where the trail crosses Shingle Gully there are paths that lead up the gully to the many ice crevices. Some are 100' high. There are features know as the Grand Canyon and the Sunken Forest. It is an awesome place.

It is also possible to reach the ice caves from above via a faint and unmaintained trail (red blazes) that starts from the High Point Carriageway just opposite the junction with the trail up to High Point. If you come from Ellenville be aware that sections of the High Point Carriageway are flooded by beaver activity. There are paths around the beaver ponds that keep you somewhat but not entirely dry. The area of the ice caves is also very wet as the mountain oozes water from all the ice crevices. From above you arrive at the first crevice without much visual warning. Be very careful that you don't fall in.

With the exception of the short trail to Indian Rock, access to the area west of High Point Carriageway, including the Greater Ice Caves, is by permit only. For further information, hikers should write to the Eastern New York Chapter of the Nature Conservancy, Inc., 251 River Road, Troy, NY 12180, or call them at (518) 272-0195 or (914) 647-7989. When the new visitor's center opens at the parking lot for Sam's Point you should be able to obtain the permit there also.

The blueberry pickers were from a wide variety of nationalities and races. Their history is detailed in two books by Marc B. Fried:

The Huckleberry Pickers, a Raucous History of the Shawangunk Mountains
Shawangunk, Adventure, Exploration, History, and Epiphany from a Mountain Wilderness

The latter is an expanded version his earlier book:

Tales from the Shawangunk Mountains

MattC · Nov 16, 2004

Thanks for the replies, guys. I didn't make Indian Rock or the blueberry shack on this trip due to a late start and fading sunlight. As I mentioned, I did check out the Ice Caves, although just briefly-a quick run-through. I look forward to going back in various seasons. Mark, as always, thanks for the info and historical background.

Matt

askus3 · Nov 17, 2004

Two other special hikes in the Gunks is the trail to the end of Gertrudes Nose and the walk over Millbrook Mountain. This should be combined in one hike. The other is the Long Path in the vicinity of Lake Awosting. These two are must hikes.