Saw For Spruce Traps

[alexmtn]

I carry a Silky Pocketboy 130 in the winter. General agreement it that they outcut the Gerbers and the Opinel. Fiskars also has a good reputation. The Silky is available with different teeth. Mine is either a Medium or Course.

Silky and Fiskars are household landscaping brands. A great choice for folks who are happy to carry a little more weight in exchange for less vulnerability to human error. Gerber's target market is tactical/survival gear. They go for max performance with minimum weight. For example, the Silky 170 (same blade length as the Gerber) weighs 50% more.

Also, the Gerber coarse blade works *really* well on spruce branches. I would challenge any "general agreement" to the contrary (a "saw-off", anyone?).

Lastly, while I'd certainly be glad to have a 130mm blade vs. just a knife in an emergency, that really is cutting things close for length.

Alex

 

[dave.m]

Also, the Gerber coarse blade works *really* well on spruce branches. I would challenge any "general agreement" to the contrary (a "saw-off", anyone?).

Alex, I had a generic (Coleman, perhaps?) saw for many years, and just accepted it's performance as what could be reasonably expected for such a tool. About 10 years, my long time interest in knives and knife collecting grew and I've become more involved on a few knife related forums. One in particular has a fairly active Outdoor and Wilderness Skills sub-forum and the topic of folding saws comes up on a regular basis. Based on recommendations, I got the Silky Pocket Boy 170 (you were right, 130 is too short and I double checked) and I honestly can't believe the jump in efficiency.

Anyway, yes, lot's of people conduct "saw-offs" as you suggest and my reading of the consensus in following those discussions is that the Silky saws regularly end up on top. That's certainly consistent with my experience.

Here's one of a bunch of saw-offs on You Tube. This one comparing a Silky to a Bahco. As the guy concludes, the Bahco is really good but the Silky is excellent.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjQJA87xGJY

As you mention, the Silkys carry a weigh penalty.

Lastly, while I'd certainly be glad to have a 130mm blade vs. just a knife in an emergency, that really is cutting things close for length.

Agreed 100%. I no longer consider carrying anything shorter than the 170 to be reasonable.

Something to add... For the purpose being discussed, I wouldn't want to be using a knife down below the surface with my or my friend's leg down there. I find saws much easier to manage in a tangle of brush. Chopping tools certainly have their place but that would not be a good one!!

 

[alexmtn]

It ain't short, but this video says it all: https://youtu.be/iXlBFJW4aK8

The only thing to keep in mind is that for whatever reason, these 'saw off' videos seem to feature much thicker logs than the spruce boughs we're talking about being prepared for here.

My bottom line: If I'm packing for some trail work or campsite construction in which I'm anticipating repeated use, the arborist/landscaping saws such as the Silky would be a great thing to take, likely in a longer length than 170. If I'm packing for a trip in which I'm not expecting to use the saw at all but want an effective one on me for emergencies, it would be the Gerber or a similarly light-yet-effective 170.

Alex

 

[J&J]

I'm sorry, I meant fixed blade knife.

In terms of the saws, the Silky saws come in a variety of lengths. Failure is typically bending a blade, not a failure of the pivot or lock. Bending can lead to breaking so I've heard though I've never managed that yet.

The folding saws are great for limbs, where might not be able to fit a buck saw in. A buck saw is better for sectioning logs.

I have been using two Silky saws for the last six years: The Big Boy 2000 (yes that's the real name ) for day long trail patrol and taking out both large and small blowdowns and branch trimming and the Pocket Boy 170 more for winter when taking out just the branches on a large blowdown that's come across a trail.

I have snapped two blade tips on my Big Boy 2000 when working on large blowdowns, none on the Pocket Boy. I highly recommend Silky saws although they are a bit pricey but well worth the price.

John

 

[dave.m]

Heya Alex,

Just want to confirm we're talking about the same things.

The Silky PocketBoy 170 weighs 7oz without the plastic holster.

The Gerber you pointed to weighs 6.5 oz which may include the second blade and is a tick shorter than 170mm.

We comparing the same saws?

 

[TCD]

I don't know how they compare in saw offs, but I have had good results with the Corona brand saws from Lowes. Only watch out with them is that the nut that holds the blade in the handle can work loose; I put threadlock on them when I buy them. But the sharpness of the teeth and the cutting efficiency are impressive for a "bargain" saw.

 

[alexmtn]

Heya Alex,
Just want to confirm we're talking about the same things.
The Silky PocketBoy 170 weighs 7oz without the plastic holster.
The Gerber you pointed to weighs 6.5 oz which may include the second blade and is a tick shorter than 170mm.
We comparing the same saws?

Yes Dave, same saws -- but note that the Gerber stat *includes* the holster.

Silky PocketBoy 170 saw: 170mm, 9.6oz w/holster, 7.2oz without.

Gerber Exchange-a-blade saw: 6.75" (171mm), 6.5oz w/holster, 4.6oz without. 1.0oz per extra blade carried.

I don't know how they compare in saw offs, but I have had good results with the Corona brand saws from Lowes ... the sharpness of the teeth and the cutting efficiency are impressive for a "bargain" saw.

I had exactly the same reaction when freeing my hiker - she was out in seconds. it's amazing how efficiently these saws can cut, esp when sicking them on an in-place spruce/fir bough rather than the 3" logs featured in the aforementioned 'saw-off' videos. And with little ol' light/fast hiker me doing the cutting, rather than a bulked-up woodsman.

Alex

 

[DayTrip]

Yes Dave, same saws -- but note that the Gerber stat *includes* the holster.

Silky PocketBoy 170 saw: 170mm, 9.6oz w/holster, 7.2oz without.

Gerber Exchange-a-blade saw: 6.75" (171mm), 6.5oz w/holster, 4.6oz without. 1.0oz per extra blade carried.



I had exactly the same reaction when freeing my hiker - she was out in seconds. it's amazing how efficiently these saws can cut, esp when sicking them on an in-place spruce/fir bough rather than the 3" logs featured in the aforementioned 'saw-off' videos. And with little ol' light/fast hiker me doing the cutting, rather than a bulked-up woodsman.

Alex

I went the Gerber route based on lighter weight and sheath. I am disappointed. I was under the impression these saws worked like a lock blade knife - you depress a lever, open the blade and it locks in place. Reverse to close. The model I got has a screw you basically have to undo, remove, flip blade and retighten. That seems like a prescription for disaster hovering in a snow filled spruce trap. I can see undoing the nut in gloved hands and POOF! down she drops into oblivion rendering the saw useless. Is the Silky Boy series the same way?? The Gerber does feel very cheap too unlike many other Gerber items I own. And it was a lot larger than I imagined. Thinking I may return. Not confident in the design or the quality.

 

[TJsName]

I'll let Alex scold you for this

 

[dave.m]

I went the Gerber route based on lighter weight and sheath. I am disappointed. I was under the impression these saws worked like a lock blade knife - you depress a lever, open the blade and it locks in place. Reverse to close. The model I got has a screw you basically have to undo, remove, flip blade and retighten. That seems like a prescription for disaster hovering in a snow filled spruce trap. I can see undoing the nut in gloved hands and POOF! down she drops into oblivion rendering the saw useless. Is the Silky Boy series the same way?? The Gerber does feel very cheap too unlike many other Gerber items I own. And it was a lot larger than I imagined. Thinking I may return. Not confident in the design or the quality.

DayTrip, the Silky PocketBoy is very similar to a lock back. You can see the thumb lock just before the orange handle. Also, the blade sits high in the frame, making it very easy to pinch open, even with gloves on.


Winter fire tools by Pinnah, on Flickr

 

[DayTrip]

DayTrip, the Silky PocketBoy is very similar to a lock back. You can see the thumb lock just before the orange handle. Also, the blade sits high in the frame, making it very easy to pinch open, even with gloves on.


Winter fire tools by Pinnah, on Flickr

Thanks. That is helpful.

 

[alexmtn]

I went the Gerber route based on lighter weight and sheath. I am disappointed. I was under the impression these saws worked like a lock blade knife - you depress a lever, open the blade and it locks in place. Reverse to close. The model I got has a screw you basically have to undo, remove, flip blade and retighten. That seems like a prescription for disaster hovering in a snow filled spruce trap. I can see undoing the nut in gloved hands and POOF! down she drops into oblivion rendering the saw useless. Is the Silky Boy series the same way?? The Gerber does feel very cheap too unlike many other Gerber items I own. And it was a lot larger than I imagined. Thinking I may return. Not confident in the design or the quality.

Hi DayTrip, from your comments, I assume you got the Exchange-a-Blade model? As described earlier (post #13), it actually *does* work like a lock-blade knife. To operate the saw, there is NO need to remove the screw.

To open/deploy the blade: simply loosen the knob about 3/4 of a turn, push the button on the other side to release the blade, flip the blade out (it clicks/locks into place), and retighten the knob. To close the saw, just reverse: loosen the knob 3/4 of a turn, push the button to release the blade lock, flip it closed, and retighten the knob.

The only time you ever have to remove the knob is when you want to change the blade: remove the knob, pull the blade out, insert the new blade in its place, and replace the knob.

So what you have is essentially a lock-blade saw with the added wrinkle of a tightening screw that enables the saw to be stable without a lot of extra weight in the handle - along with a fast/easy blade exchange capability when needed. While I think that this saw represents the perfect tradeoff for use as an emergency saw, I'm a little disappointed in Gerber if they chose not to include these instructions with the product.

Alex

 

[DayTrip]

Hi DayTrip, from your comments, I assume you got the Exchange-a-Blade model? As described earlier (post #13), it actually *does* work like a lock-blade knife. To operate the saw, there is NO need to remove the screw.

To open/deploy the blade: simply loosen the knob about 3/4 of a turn, push the button on the other side to release the blade, flip the blade out (it clicks/locks into place), and retighten the knob. To close the saw, just reverse: loosen the knob 3/4 of a turn, push the button to release the blade lock, flip it closed, and retighten the knob.

The only time you ever have to remove the knob is when you want to change the blade: remove the knob, pull the blade out, insert the new blade in its place, and replace the knob.

So what you have is essentially a lock-blade saw with the added wrinkle of a tightening screw that enables the saw to be stable without a lot of extra weight in the handle - along with a fast/easy blade exchange capability when needed. While I think that this saw represents the perfect tradeoff for use as an emergency saw, I'm a little disappointed in Gerber if they chose not to include these instructions with the product.

Alex

Yes that is the saw. This is what I originally thought but it didn't seem to want to rotate in the housing. Another thing I thought was odd is that the plastic around the swiveling screw mechanism looked like it was flaked or chipped (like the mold for the plastic let small amounts leak out and make fins and irregularities, albeit small). Possible these little tabs of plastic need to get worn off for proper operation? Could it be defective? I can see that the blade has two tabs that move and lock into the housing in notches. I'll have to mess around with it a bit and see if clearing the plastic pieces off the swivel area helps. Hopefully it works. It is a light saw for the size which is nice. I have a nice downed pine tree in the woods on the side of my house I can field test it on. Thanks for the highly detailed feedback as always Alex.

 

[alexmtn]

Yes that is the saw. This is what I originally thought but it didn't seem to want to rotate in the housing. Another thing I thought was odd is that the plastic around the swiveling screw mechanism looked like it was flaked or chipped (like the mold for the plastic let small amounts leak out and make fins and irregularities, albeit small). Possible these little tabs of plastic need to get worn off for proper operation? Could it be defective? I can see that the blade has two tabs that move and lock into the housing in notches. I'll have to mess around with it a bit and see if clearing the plastic pieces off the swivel area helps. Hopefully it works. It is a light saw for the size which is nice. I have a nice downed pine tree in the woods on the side of my house I can field test it on. Thanks for the highly detailed feedback as always Alex.

I took a few minutes to video this and my other (sliding) Gerber pocket saw. Feel free to compare the swivel area of your saw with mine. Let us know how you make out with a limb or two of your downed pine!

Alex

 

[DayTrip]

I took a few minutes to video this and my other (sliding) Gerber pocket saw. Feel free to compare the swivel area of your saw with mine.

Alex

Awesome! Thanks for doing that. I will try again when I get home. After watching your video I'm thinking I wasn't pushing in the button far enough. Looks like it goes in quite far. I don't see the jagged, plastic "hangers" on yours like mine has but they may have flaked off because you have used yours.

 

[DayTrip]

So the saw works fine. I was definitely unscrewing the knob too far and I think because of that the blade was flopping around and did not want to rotate properly and hung up. The irregular spots I previously mentioned don't affect the saw blade at all. I just assumed the jagged operation initially had something to do with that. It must have just been a bad mold. Thanks again Alex for clarifying the obvious for me.

 

[TJsName]

So I grabbed the silky saw, and the tip snapped on my first trip out while cutting a 4 inch softwood. I'll try getting a replacement.

 

[BISCUT]

I have had a SVEN Saw for about 20 years. Great camp saw and folds to literally nothing. $15 bux for the little one. Drawback is aluminum and COLD!

 

[DougPaul]

I have had a SVEN Saw for about 20 years. Great camp saw and folds to literally nothing. $15 bux for the little one. Drawback is aluminum and COLD!

I have both the big and small ones--the big one works much better.

I also have rip and cross-cut blades--the cross-cut is preferable for this use because the rip can catch on small branches.

However, if one's intended use is for cutting spruce traps, a bow saw may not be the best choice because it requires a larger opening (in the thicket of branches) than some other types.

Doug

 

[BISCUT]

Good point on the larger opening Doug. Missed that.