peakbagger
In Rembrance , July 2024
On the list for this summer was revisit to Six Husbands trail and a first time visit to Sphinx. A friend has done these trails a couple of times via Caps Ridge but given the forecast on Saturday I looked at the option of doing both from the Great Gulf trail. It looked like the winner for a marginal weather route so off we went. The parking lot at Great Gulf only had a few cars as usual. We met a couple of folks with VT plates heading up to Sphinx and expected to see them at some point but never did. We had a fast hike up to the Six Husbands/Wamsutta junction and headed over to the crossing of the west branch of the Peabody. Despite a lot of looking we didn't find the trail on the other side of the stream (which had a pretty good flow). After spending 15 or 20 minutes crashing through dense woods we picked up the very well beaten down trail corridor and decided not to retrace our steps to find where we went wrong. We soon got to the fun part of Six Husbands and after the short scramble under the boulders we were at the ladders. They were as remembered but totally blanked out from the memory was that some of them are 4 to 8 feet short requiring some scrambling up boulder to get to the bottom rung. There were a couple of other spots with just enough exposure that some folks might have an issue. Soon we were above the ladders with nice view from an outcrop. The weather was far nicer than expected with only the summit in the clouds. While hanging out taking a break we heard voices from above us and soon two ladies who were aborting a trail run came by. They were having fun and seemed up for the trip but I think it was the first time on the trail for one of them. We soon took off and met another two hikers heading down. They tentatively asked if we had hiked into from RT 16 and were concerned with the water crossings. They sounded tentative so I asked them if they were aware of the ladders down below, one of them answered "What ladders" so I expect they may not have read the guide. A few minutes later we encountered a couple of Canadians heading down.
After more ascent then remembered we got to Gulfside, we were considering heading up to Jefferson but the wind was stiff on the ridge and we were running late so it was off to Sphinx. We encountered several folks along Gulfside and most had full "late September/early October Gear " on. Despite living in the area 20 plus years I have never done Sphinx so this was new trail to me. I can confirm that there is a distinct flat grassy "stealth" site about 200 to 300 feet down the trail on the left with a rock face on the west side that would provide some shelter in bad weather but it definitely is not a legal site as it is above treeline. Soon after, we started the descent. I had packed away my poles at some point previously but decided it was time to bring them back out. Initially I tired to avoid the wet spots, but it soon became apparent that upper Sphinx is a stream bed that happens to be used as a hiking trail. I had wool socks and trail runners on but folks should plan that at any point above freezing that their feet and legs will get thoroughly soaked if they elect to use this trail. The rocks are mossy and in general footing was tenuous. There are no work arounds or options to avoid the stream bed other than descending through dense krummholz. Eventually the trail diverted from the brook and dried out a bit while viewing the many waterfalls, cascades and slot canyons along this hike. We also encountered the head of the slide from Hurricane Irene and much evidence of the damage inflicted. The trail does get obscure in spots but small cairns generally appear when there is a question.
Soon we encountered the Great Gulf trail . The woods in this area are fairly well beat up, I didn't notice any designated camping markers but there are multiple beat down areas that are obviously used fro camping. The hike down Great Gulf trail back to the six Husbands junction was a lot slower and wilder than expected. There was some drizzle coming off the summit enough to make the rocks slippery. With a total lack of blazes and signage along this section it definitely required some care. We didn't see anyone along this stretch but did see two tents set up at a designated spot across from an obvious former shelter location. We soon arrived at the Six Husbands junction and were back on known trail. The hike back down to the Old Jackson Road Junction was slower than the AM. One thing we both noted is the signage at the AT/Old Jackson Road/ Madison Gulf Junction is lacking a major omission. The trails in the Great Gulf on occasion are used as bail out routes and this junction should really be signed with a sign indicating which way to RT 16. I expect some folks desperate to get to the road make the wrong decision and take a right onto old Jackson road that eventually crosses the AutoRoad and eventually Pinkham, but the easiest and fastest way out is definitely via GG trail.
With the woods getting dark we cruised out to the parking lot with the only potential incident is my attempt at extending the fun by bearing left on the Hayes Coop Ski Trail.
Overall a long but nice hike to Great Gulf. I must have had fun as I still sore a day after which is rare. I would definitely rate this loop as advanced due to length, terrain, and route navigation issues. I joke with my friend that I carry the "worlds most accurate map" the tyvek washburn map from 15 years ago but I have found that on both this trip and prior Madison Gulf trip that is has come in essential more than few times.
Overall with the exception of Gulfside, we encountered 8 possibly 10 folks all day. It supports my contention that the whites aren't particularly crowded these days but rather the use is just concentrated at certain popular day hiking spots. 15 to 20 years ago, there would tents set up all over the woods past the 1/4 Mile RUA from RT 16 and every flat spot along the GG trail usually had a tent.
After more ascent then remembered we got to Gulfside, we were considering heading up to Jefferson but the wind was stiff on the ridge and we were running late so it was off to Sphinx. We encountered several folks along Gulfside and most had full "late September/early October Gear " on. Despite living in the area 20 plus years I have never done Sphinx so this was new trail to me. I can confirm that there is a distinct flat grassy "stealth" site about 200 to 300 feet down the trail on the left with a rock face on the west side that would provide some shelter in bad weather but it definitely is not a legal site as it is above treeline. Soon after, we started the descent. I had packed away my poles at some point previously but decided it was time to bring them back out. Initially I tired to avoid the wet spots, but it soon became apparent that upper Sphinx is a stream bed that happens to be used as a hiking trail. I had wool socks and trail runners on but folks should plan that at any point above freezing that their feet and legs will get thoroughly soaked if they elect to use this trail. The rocks are mossy and in general footing was tenuous. There are no work arounds or options to avoid the stream bed other than descending through dense krummholz. Eventually the trail diverted from the brook and dried out a bit while viewing the many waterfalls, cascades and slot canyons along this hike. We also encountered the head of the slide from Hurricane Irene and much evidence of the damage inflicted. The trail does get obscure in spots but small cairns generally appear when there is a question.
Soon we encountered the Great Gulf trail . The woods in this area are fairly well beat up, I didn't notice any designated camping markers but there are multiple beat down areas that are obviously used fro camping. The hike down Great Gulf trail back to the six Husbands junction was a lot slower and wilder than expected. There was some drizzle coming off the summit enough to make the rocks slippery. With a total lack of blazes and signage along this section it definitely required some care. We didn't see anyone along this stretch but did see two tents set up at a designated spot across from an obvious former shelter location. We soon arrived at the Six Husbands junction and were back on known trail. The hike back down to the Old Jackson Road Junction was slower than the AM. One thing we both noted is the signage at the AT/Old Jackson Road/ Madison Gulf Junction is lacking a major omission. The trails in the Great Gulf on occasion are used as bail out routes and this junction should really be signed with a sign indicating which way to RT 16. I expect some folks desperate to get to the road make the wrong decision and take a right onto old Jackson road that eventually crosses the AutoRoad and eventually Pinkham, but the easiest and fastest way out is definitely via GG trail.
With the woods getting dark we cruised out to the parking lot with the only potential incident is my attempt at extending the fun by bearing left on the Hayes Coop Ski Trail.
Overall a long but nice hike to Great Gulf. I must have had fun as I still sore a day after which is rare. I would definitely rate this loop as advanced due to length, terrain, and route navigation issues. I joke with my friend that I carry the "worlds most accurate map" the tyvek washburn map from 15 years ago but I have found that on both this trip and prior Madison Gulf trip that is has come in essential more than few times.
Overall with the exception of Gulfside, we encountered 8 possibly 10 folks all day. It supports my contention that the whites aren't particularly crowded these days but rather the use is just concentrated at certain popular day hiking spots. 15 to 20 years ago, there would tents set up all over the woods past the 1/4 Mile RUA from RT 16 and every flat spot along the GG trail usually had a tent.
