Solo Presi Traverse 11-10-12

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Green3nergy

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Greetings everyone,
Last weekend I completed a solo Presidential Traverse from North to South.
However, this wasn't a "true" traverse because other than Mount Washington, I bypassed the summits.

Also, this is my first written trip report, so I'll do my best to be thorough yet concise.

The conditions were rough, and the snowpack soft.

I slept in my car at the Appalachia trailhead on Friday night.

Awoke at approximately 4:15 am, boiled water and ate four packets of oatmeal.
At roughly 4:35 am, a middle-aged couple arrived.
Considering their arrival time, I assumed they too were attempting a traverse.
By 4:50 am, I was on my way up Valley Way trail with the couple on my tail.

Today's ascent was particularly slow, and the middle-aged couple eventually passed me just prior to reaching treeline.
Luckily they took the lead; visibility was severely limited and there were no readily identifiable tracks, other than there's.

Here's a picture of Madison Hut ~ 8:00 am. The winds were very strong (60 mph gusts), and temperature around 10 degrees Fahrenheit.

View attachment 4221

As predicted, the forecast included high winds throughout the morning, with winds subsiding and skies clearing toward the afternoon.

Travel was slow above treeline; the area had received about 8" of snow four days prior. Without snowshoes, I easily sunk into snow drifts waist high. Only armed with Microspikes and trekking poles I was left to traversing clearly visible rock or sink into the snow.

My Camelback's drinking tube froze soon after reaching treeline, my first mistake of the day. As a result, I would rely upon the single 32 oz Gatorade bottle to maintain my hydration throughout the day. I kept the Gatorade bottle on the inside of my jacket and packed it with snow whenever I had the chance.

As expected, I was unable to melt and consume a sufficient amount of snow which eventually led to my dehydration.

Winds were fierce, and whenever I would remove my hand from it's mitt, they would go numb within 30-60 seconds. Thankfully, my Black Diamond Absolute Mitts retained there warmth, heating my hand when placed back on.

My goal was to reach the summit of Washington by 12:00 pm (noon). Running slightly behind, I arrived at the summit of Washington just short of 1:00 pm.

View attachment 4222

Considering the exposure, my visit at the summit was cut short. However, it was the first time I was able to take a picture at the summit sign (because there was no line)
View attachment 4223

It took me about an hour to travel from the Summit of Washington to Lake of The Clouds.

Around 2:00 pm, at Lake of The Clouds, I took shelter behind the cabin and boiled two cups of water for hot chocolate.

Completely protected from the wind, the sun was directly on me and providing considerable warmth.

View attachment 4224

Thus far, I had hardly ceased movement and allocated minimal time for caloric intake. I was very hungry, a little bit wet and feeling dehydrated.

I continued onward, but made the decision to take Edmund's Path down. My dinner reservations at Crawford Notch Highland Center were scheduled for 6:00 pm and I didn't want to miss out.

I was also in pain while at Lake of the Clouds, and wanted to get off the mountain desperately. I'd previously completed the full Presi Traverse during the summer months, and was therefore satisfied with today's ordeal.

5:00 pm being when the sun would set, I hoped to get below treeline before then.

For me, the descent and several miles you must hike while below treeline are the most arduous.
The last few miles seem to drag on forever; you're usually exhausted, wet, hungry, and in this case dehydrated.

I took Edmund's Path down, drank untreated water out of the first running stream, and reached the road after about an hour and fifteen minutes of fast-paced walking.
Arrived at Highland Center just in time for dinner. I checked in, and stripped off most of my wet clothes and ate a delicious dinner.

My SmartWool base-layer was still wet however, and while eating dinner I was overcome with chills for several brief moments.

I ate as quickly as possible, excused myself and took a hot shower. The warm water felt amazing!

My reservations were at the Shapleigh Bunkhouse and two other solo-male hikers staying the night. Both of them were within 10 years age of myself, and we enjoyed an interesting conversation together.

All-in-all, my attempted Presidential Traverse was a success, although I was in pain and slightly regretted the undertaking, I came away having learned several valuable lessons.

To summarize my 'action suit' and the gear I was carrying:
On my torso was:
Next-to-skin Smartwool Lightweight Zip-Tee
Heavyweight Smartwool Zip-Tee
Ultra-high visibility Brooks wind-proof running vest

On my head:
REI Performance Baklava - it's very light weight, but provides just the right protection for my neck and back of head.
Gore Windstopper Wind Buff - which provided additional insulation and windprotection for my face / neck / head.
REI Havenpass Earflap Cap with an eVent shell and PrimaLoft insulation.

On my legs:
REI Polartec Heavyweight Long Underwear
Marmot M3 Scree Soft-Shell Pants - The Marmot softshell pants worked phenomenal! The temperatures were well below freezing and therefore I didn't need the complete waterproof protection. Because the pair I bought were slightly oversized and the winds were strong, the pants acted like a sail and flapped away any snow which got on them -- effectively keeping them dry throughout the day.

On my feet were:
SmartWool Sock Liners
A heavyweight Merino wool sock
Asolo Flame GTX Hiking Boots
REI Softshell Trail Running Gaiter
Kahtoola MICROspikes

I didn't mention however, my feet were cold and partially numb the entire day. I've become used to the sensation and was therefore comfortable with the condition.

And on my back was a Black Diamond Infinity 55 light-weight climbing back, with approximately 25 lbs of gear.
Gear included:
(1) Jetboil, (2) freeze dried meals, (10) hammergels, (4) Pumpkin-Spice Cliff Bars, (1) Arctyrex Ascent Series Gortex-Pro full-zip pants, (1) REI eVent Shuksan jacket, (1) REI Polartec 100 weight fleece pant, (1) modified emergency bivvy, (1) Stoic Hedron light-weight down jacket, (1) PrimaLoft hooded / convertable jacket

Please let me know if you have questions!
 
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That's quite an amazing report, especially for a first one. I'm glad you made it back unscathed, and in time for dinner, no less! I was thinking as I read this that I probably would have turned back on at least two occasions: Not having snowshoes in the drifts and not being able to hydrate at treeline. What made you decide to press on with the traverse? And would you press on again if in the same predicament? (I should mention that I can't see the attachments for some reason.) Thanks for posting.
 
Nice TR. Why the seeming emphasis on your fellow hiker's age? Or am I projecting :p?

"the middle-aged couple eventually passed me"

"Both of them were within 10 years age of myself"
 
An easy trick to avoid water freezing in a hydration drinking tube is to blow some air back into the tube, just enough to empty the tube after taking each drink.

Glad you made it out in one piece!
 
Thank you for your honesty in sharing what you did and learned from the experience. Grateful we didn't read about you in the Union Leade, young man.
 
For Tom's benefit, I run a Presi Lite every so often in the summer, The route is up Valley Way to Gulfside then Gulfside to the West Side trail, then Crawford Path to 302. The West side trail used to be the gulfside, and reportedly the AT, but at some point the gulfside and the AT was routed over the summit. The West side trail has some of the greatest stone work in the whites which is even more amazing when one considers that it was put in place over 100 years ago. For those who like the skip the mess on the summit, its a nice alternative. The lite route cuts out a few miles and signficant elevation. Its a nice way of getting 90% of views with less effort and for many its a good stepping stone to do a full presi and for others its plenty enough of a challenge.
 
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You say you bypassed the summits. Can you describe your route in more detail?

I would infer he took Gulfside from the Valley Way, then THC and Crawford Path to Edmands Path and the road walk. Quite an adventure!

I got the attachment error, too. Green3nergy - I had some wobbles out of the gate posting pics, too and still haven't figured it all out. Some of the respondents here know the site very well - they can help you make your pics visible if you wish. I always like to see a new set of pics. Thanks for your very good first report. :)
 
There are no attachments on the server with the IDs you entered. I'm not sure how you did it, but the links look correct - just no attachments with those IDs. It is preferable to host the images elsewhere. See Tom's post above.

Tim
 
An easy trick to avoid water freezing in a hydration drinking tube is to blow some air back into the tube, just enough to empty the tube after taking each drink.

Glad you made it out in one piece!

and if you forgot that trick, you could take advantage of the fact that the bladder has more than one opening. Pour the water from the bladder into the Gatorade bottle; repeat as needed. If you're unable to funnel water through the bladder's main opening into your bottle without spilling it all, use a crampon to make a small new opening in an upper corner of your bladder. Repair with duct tape (just fold the corner over and wrap tightly).

You've also got snow and a stove; this takes rather more time than you'd expect but it's a lot faster and safer than trying to melt snow using body heat.

In winter, it's a good idea to use a vacuum-insulated container, better known as a Thermos. This type is just the right size to replace a water bottle. I wrap it with tape to make a bulge so it won't slip out of my pack's side pocket. (Duct tape - of course. Always useful!)
 
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What an adventure. Glad to hear you made it back ok. I am curious. You did not mention the following being in your pack so I was curious if you had them with you.
headlamp with spare batteries, map, compass, spare gloves/mittens/hand warmers. Also I wondered if you had checked the weather reports for the region for that day and also did anyone know of your route and possible bail out points and did you let someone know when you were safely down again. Just more things to think about. Thank you for sharing your adventure.
 
and if you forgot that trick, you could take advantage of the fact that the bladder has more than one opening. Pour the water from the bladder into the Gatorade bottle; repeat as needed. If you're unable to funnel water through the bladder's main opening into your bottle without spilling it all, use a crampon to make a small new opening in an upper corner of your bladder. Repair with duct tape (just fold the corner over and wrap tightly).

I have also detached my tube from the bladder and put that in my jacket to warm it back up. One nice thing about Camelbak bladders. Once thawed, you could drink out of it again or use that as a way to fill your bottle without making a hole in the bladder. I have found that when it gets real cold, even blowing air back into the tube doesn't always work.
 
You say you bypassed the summits. Can you describe your route in more detail?

Welcome to the board. I would also enjoy some more details of your traverse - your gear is detailed impeccably, can we have the same level of detail regarding your route and experiences along the ridge? It sounds like quite an amazing story.
 
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