The Pemi Loop and a Case for More Water

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Early Bird

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Pemi Loop, Friday July 6, 2012 Part 1

After organizing a babysitter, my husband Gig aka The Anti-Zen and I headed up to Lincoln to the Hancock Campground Thursday night. We set our alarms, watches and phones for 3:30 AM and slept in the back of his Honda Element which was actually kinda comfy and easier that setting up and breaking down a tent. If I'd fallen asleep first I'd have had a better night sleep, but I have trouble sleeping to loud breathing, (*cough* snoring *cough*). So 3:30 AM came quickly. In 5 minutes we were gone and at Lincoln Woods.

Once there, we got dressed to hike: t-shirt, shorts, trail runners. We had rain or wind jackets strapped to our Camelbacks and extra socks inside. I wore gaiters and Gig slathered his feet in Vaseline. For breakfast, a midnight snack or something in between, we ate bananas and whole wheat bagels. I spread peanut butter on mine. We drank some water, I more than Gig. I also mixed myself a 20oz bottle of orange Tang and chugged that, then chased a GU with 12 more ounces of water. Gig is using this as training for the JFK 50 ultra in November which is mostly on trails, so we were planning to go somewhat fast and light. I wasn't sure how much water to carry. My Camel held 50 oz of water and I had a 20 oz bottle of Gatorade. That morning I made a judgment call not to bring another water bottle because it wasn't particularly hot. Gig had a 2 liter Camel. We had some powdered Gatorade, 4 more servings, and planned to drink that at the hut.

After some quick trips to the bathrooms we set off on the Wilderness Trail. It was 4:10 AM. In about 5 minutes the birds began their first songs of the day. Hermit thrush led the symphony. Only I had a headlamp. While it was getting light enough to see the trail, it wasn't light enough to see all the details, ditches, and railroad ties. We started to jog, but Gig didn't want to trip and get injured this early in the day, so we fast walked with our hiking poles to the Osseo Trail junction, arriving at 4:30. Quick enough.

The Osseo trail was pretty steady and we made good time. After the ladders the trail is level and great for jogging. I heard the Bicknell's Thrush calling in this area. We talked about when we thought we'd see the first other hikers, probably around Lincoln we decided. We also talked about our mental strategies. Any long endurance event is 90% mental. I recalled how tired I felt when I backpacked 22 miles in one day last summer on Vermont's Long Trail. It was my second day out. I had a pack full of food, 3+ liters of water, and hadn't gotten those hiking legs yet. I kept telling myself this was not going to get as hard as the end of that day. This pemi loop was 31.5 miles, but I was discounting the last 4.7, which is flat and we planned to run. So that was a 26 mile hike actually and I was just carrying a Camelback, plus a water bottle waist pack, not a full pack. (I know those numbers don't 100% add up, but that's how I explained it to myself for accomplishment purposes.) Mentally Gig knew he would finish as well. We reached Flume at 6:20. What a morning view in the undercast! Breathtaking, but not letting the focus be lost we barely stopped. Gig got out my first snack, a Honey Stinger bar and I got one out for him, Walker shortbread cookies. Shortly I had another GU and heard some more Bicknell's. In the saddle of Flume and Liberty I did stop for a second when I saw a Bicknell's at the edge of the trail. It flew off and as quickly so did we.

I didn't write down the splits between every peak and trail junction, but recall some. I had written a pace chart for estimated arrival times at each peak and junction based on what someone else had done in 13 hours. (I forget who posted that I copied.) If we reached each spot within 45 minutes of their time, we would be done in our goal of 14 hours. Secretly I wanted to be down faster than that, but was trying to be reasonable for our first pemi loop. I know we reached Liberty at 6:50 and Lafayette by 8:30.There were parts where Gig just wanted to walk fast, but I reminded him that he was training for the JFK 50 and picked up the pace. We ran the runnable flat parts of the ridge. Gig said he felt like Kilian Jornet. We took one 5 minute break (I timed it anxiously and eager to keep moving) on Lincoln while Gig changed a sweaty sock and put more Vaseline on his foot. We didn't see anyone on the ridge. It was amazing having it all to ourselves at the break of day, in silence before the heat hit. Gig had started to sweat, but I don't sweat that much. He says he had been sweating up the Osseo Trail.

"In the dark?" I questioned.
"Sure. I was sweating pretty early."
I contemplated sweating without the sun hitting me. This filled up a half hour of my thoughts. How my mind wanders on long hikes like this.

It was somewhere along the woods after Franconia Ridge that we first saw another hiker. Someone had tented and was just waking up. We'd already hiked over 10 miles. We felt great. I pretended I was just waking up and starting my hike too. Now we had to just hike less than 20 miles, shorter than that tough hike I did last summer and the last 5 miles didn't count, in my mind. Easy. I knew I'd make it no problem.

In hindsight, I think this section between the ridge and Garfield was the one I'd read had plenty of PUDs. But I thought they were going to be between Garfield and the hut, so I was doing it thinking it wasn't that bad, worse was yet to come. I was also reminiscing about my AT thru-hike, the only other time I'd hiked through this section in this way. That year, I stayed the night at the hut and hiked S. Twin in the morning so I was reminding myself that once we did S. Twin we'd be done with 1/2 the miles (that was around Garfield) and half the elevation, the rest I told myself would be a cake walk, then a downhill, then a run. I'm still not sure where those PUDs where. They didn't stick out to me.

The woods in this area were wet. We'd walked into the clouds and below them now. The rocks slick. Gig who doesn't usually hike with poles was glad he had them. We moved carefully and stopped for Bicknell's sightings more than twice. We even took pictures of the little bird. They were everywhere it seemed, from Osseo through the Bonds, singing and calling. I lost count of how often we heard them. This is my favorite bird. I felt so lucky.

We reached Garfield still ahead of our projected pace, but starting to fall behind a little. Where we'd hiked together through the ridge, I was slightly ahead in this section. Reaching Garfield ahead of Gig, I chatted with some folks who'd hiked over after spending the night at the hut while I waited a minute or two for Gig to reach the top. He said all the ups were hard for him by now. "Anytime I was going up and the sun was shining it was hard," he said.

After Garfield the trail passes Liberty Springs. At one point the trail ran down a mini waterfall. This part was very slow going. Gig dunked his head in the water to cool off. We started seeing more and more people. AT hikers who'd started in Harper's Ferry, Southbounders. Good times and quick conversations. Temps were in the high 70's. There were little to no winds, no chance of rain or thunder, a perfect hiking day. We never needed our rain jackets or wind breakers. Though it seemed far off, we had seen the hut in the distance and were encouraged. During the slow steady up, I dropped Gig again. When I didn't see him, I would wait and call his name. He was always within earshot. I was the pace setter and he appreciated that. However, somewhere in this stretch, probably 1.3 miles from the hut he ran out of water, but didn't think it was a big deal with the hut so close. He says he had been drinking enough, but at the same time rationing to the hut. We hiked together from there for a while, but shortly my Camelback slurped also, meaning I was getting close to the end of my 50 oz. I still hadn't touched my 20 oz of Gatorade so I broke that out and shared it. Once we reached the .6 miles to the hut mark. I drank almost all the rest and hurried on. Not seeing Gig for a minute or so, I called. He answered. I left him the rest of my bottle on the trail instead of waiting. I still felt great and wanted to go fast. We met up again at the little junction before the hut, but I'd waited a few minutes for him again.

My plan was to hit the hut, refill our water, drink a lot and carry on- not waste much time. I wasn't hungry. I'd been eating GU and energy bars at regular intervals. By now I'd had three bars, one Snickers, and 3-4 GU's and felt great. It was 11:40, 45 minutes behind schedule. Besides one croo member, there were three other hikers at the hut: 2 asleep on the table benches and one outside. One guy woke up, and we talked. They were also doing a pemi loop, but had started the previous evening at 7 PM and gone straight through; this was their first rest. He woke his friend and told him in an incredulous way that we had started 9 hours after them and were doing the same thing. We wished them luck and tried to motivate them into finishing in 24 hours. We spent 20-25 minutes at the hut. Gig changed his sock, ate a little, filled up his Camel, and drank a Gatorade, 20 oz. I drank two bottles of Gatorade, 40 oz. He said later he'd wished he'd could've spent more time there resting. I rushed him on.
 
Pemi Loop and a Case for More Water Part 2

Gig and I do plenty of long endurance type events together. Often times between 2/3 and 3/4 of the way through there is some sort of mental breakdown. We always recover quickly-usually after eating a bunch of Oreos-, but one of us still has it. Here it happened on the way up S. Twin. I'd had another GU and a hearty chunk of hut bread right before starting up. I felt fresh going up S. Twin like it was just a day hike, .8 miles is shorter than Pack Monadnock I was telling myself. My 3 year old can hike that. Meanwhile, Gig was laboring heavily. Usually when I set a pace, he rises to it, but not this time. Gig told me he couldn't go my pace. When I had posted for advice on our planning and prep, an experienced friend of mine had written. One piece of advice was to not be discouraged if we fell off schedule in the second third of the hike. We totally fell off schedule in the 2nd 3rd and despite that advice which I reminded myself of as I went in, by now on S. Twin I was discouraged. I shortly told Gig that we were behind schedule and added that every time I've hiked without our daughter since she'd been born, it had been my priority to get home before she fell asleep so I could say goodnight. I said that at this pace we weren't going to make it and if I had known that I wouldn't have even come. And I left. Anger is energy. I was up top pretty quickly. I paced around on S. Twin waiting for Gig longer than any other part, but sort of felt defeated at that point.

Gig made it to the top. It took 35 minutes to go .8 miles, but the ups and the flats were like night and day for him. I continued walking staying together and glumly not saying much. Until Gig said, "Hey, this is flat. Get running. We have a kid to see don't we?" I turned, smiled, and got running.

Somehow we made up all the lost time on the Twinway and did well after that. In the end we finished in 12 hours and 50 minutes. We were home by 7:00 which is perfect for putting my daughter to bed.

Guyout was the most beautiful spot, so green like a field only alpine. I could picture sheep or something grazing. I'd only been through here once before in winter, so I was seeing it with new eyes now. The trail up to Bond we both agree was easy. You could almost run most of it, not much gain going forward. On this summit, I finally stopped and changed my socks. Gig casually mentioned that he had fat kid fingers here. "Drink some water," I told him just as casually.

There were lots of day hikers soaking up sun and enjoying the views from Bondcliff. That and knowing we were in the homestretch kept us from really stopping. The 4.4 miles were all downhill and when it wasn't big talus rocks, we jogged. It was at this point that Gig stopped to pee twice within 3 minutes. He described a need to pee, but not much came out. (There is a point to this explicitness.) The color was dark, he told me, but nothing he thought was alarming. (I didn't look.) After the second time, when not much came out, he felt some stinging. He says he knew immediately at this point that there was some kind of minor dehydration stuff going on. He had no other symptoms, and drank more water. Despite this we still made good time to the Wilderness Trail and felt happy about how much we'd run. I was 3:55 PM when we hit Lincoln Woods again. The hike was over. We just had a trail run to do.

At first, we walked while drinking and eating another bar, plus some gummy bears and one last GU each. Then we settled into a comfortable run 5 minutes- walk 2 pattern. Physically Gig felt fine. Mentally he wanted to get it over with. I felt what a runner's high is probably like. I do run and I don't much like it and I've never felt high running, but today I felt like I could keep running 5 minutes on 2 off forever. I imagined having to do 19 more miles if I had been signed up for the JFK, which I'm not, and it was exciting. Gig ran out of water about a mile into that run, but he says he had planned that. He didn't want the pack sloshing around at the end. I still had a third of my water left, plus Gatorade which I was sharing again. So I offered some of mine. We were back at Lincoln Woods by 5:00 exactly. No time to waste we were driving away in two minutes.

At the gas station in Lincoln we decided to stop for chocolate milk and a beer. You figure out who wanted what. However, everything changed when Gig went to the bathroom and came out with an ashen look on his face and said, "I just peed blood."

Having read a lot about ultra runners who suffer kidney damage during long strenuous activity his mind was sent into full panic mode. He started driving again and called the on-call after-hours nurse from our doctor's office. Describing his symptoms she recommended that he come to the nearest ER for an IV, electrolytes, and a kidney x-ray. Meanwhile I was doing some internet diagnosing on my Droid phone. There is plenty of bad stuff it could have been, but I mentioned none of it until I came across a link that connected dehydration and extensive exercise to hematuria,-blood in urine. This combined with wanting to get home and with having the crappiest of high deductible health care plans, he decided to drive the 90 minutes home while drinking a lot of water and more Gatorade instead.

When we got home he seemed well hydrated and everything was coming out clear. This was a trick though; the urine was simply diluted so much that the blood wasn't visible. But the stinging continued. The next morning he called again and went into urgent care. They gave him some tests, but sent him home and told him to continue doing what he was doing. It was Saturday and he wouldn't get the results until Monday. There were a period of worry here, but he was back to normal with absolutely no symptoms after 48 hours. (Just like how the Internet said it would happen!) Monday's results noted all was fine.

Although the medical experience dampened the great hike a bit, for Gig it was a great learning experience which he is glad happened now instead of at the JFK 50. We're doing it again in August, and although there isn't much I'll change if the conditions are the same, any warmer or more humid and I'd add another 20 oz bottle of fluids. Gig says he will be carrying an extra 48 oz of Cytomax before and after the hut. All in all it was a beautiful hike and we can't wait to do it again.
 
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I sweat walking downhill in winter in sub zero temps. :(

Glad your hike turned out alright and there was there were no serious side effects!
 
:eek: Yikes ! Glad everything is working out well. I feel like I know Gig better than I need to now, but...;)
Great report. Good on you both.

I felt like I got to know things I didn't need to know and we've been married 15 years.

Wow - hey, thanks for sharing ! You never know when the details of your experience will help another!

Exactly. If it ends up a learning experience or warning for anyone else, all the better.

I am glad everything turned out ok.

Glad your hike turned out alright and there was there were no serious side effects!

Thanks.
 
Wow, an incredible story. First and foremost, I'm glad your husband is okay. Phew! I would have freaked out in that situation, I'm sure. Also, congratulations! 12:50 for your first Pemi Loop, all things considered a success. :)
 
Great report! Way to go, Millie and Gig!!
 
Although the medical experience dampened the great hike a bit, for Gig it was a great learning experience which he is glad happened now instead of at the JFK 50. We're doing it again in August, and although there isn't much I'll change if the conditions are the same, any warmer or more humid and I'd add another 20 oz bottle of fluids. Gig says he will be carrying an extra 48 oz of Cytomax before and after the hut. All in all it was a beautiful hike and we can't wait to do it again.
Glad it all worked out!However I am trying to wrap my head around your comment about"there isn't much I'll change if the conditions are the same"Would it not be prudent to bring a substantial increase of liquid reserve to avoid a repeat of the same?Is 48 ounces of cytomax going to cover it for Gig? That seems to me to be putting a lot of stock in a slight increase in liquids....Are you two trying to set a certain time for your pemi? If so,what about stashing some water along the way or simply drinking some water from the gale river[if water levels are ok].I personally would rather contact giardia than what happened to Gig.I know there are not a lot of water outlets on the pemi loop.It seems in winter,Gig could really get in trouble in this situation.I do believe in hike your own hike,but extra water on a long loop seems mandatory if you need it.I have run out of water plenty of times by the way,but I just walked slower to get off the mountain,as not to expend energy......
In essence I question if the goals are worth the means?I know everyone hikes/runs for different reasons.For me,I just love being outdoors whether its chopping firewood or peakbagging....peace
 
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