Thoreau 16 completed
South Mtn. - Catskills (Aug. 14, 2009)
Thoreau's Journal for his 1844 walking tour of the Catskills is lost, but he lodged at Scribner's Boarding House, about a mile from the summit of South Mtn., near Kaaterskill Falls, and as there were trails to its summit even then, he surely hiked to it. Armed with detailed information from Mark Schaefer, I hiked there too today, in a counterclockwise loop starting from the Scutt Rd. trailhead, just before the entrance to the NYS North/South Lake Campgrounds.
After passing the Scribner's site, I soon reached the Escarpment Trail, which winds counterclockwise like the parapet of a gigantic castle along the cliffs that rim the broad, flat summit plateau, .from the west to the northeast. The many stirring vistas, from Sunset Rock and Inspiration Point, in particular, would have been finer on a less hazy day, such as the view NW up Kaaterskill Clove:
The summit was home to the grand Kaaterskill House until it conflagrated in the 1920s. It is hard do say exactly where the high-point is, but I tentatively located it at a bootleg campsite in open woods 20 yards north of the summit meadow.
The Escarpment Trail gave me more great ledge panoramas to south, east and NE, especially from Eagle Rock and the site of the Catskill Mountain House (the original grand hotel of the Catskills), as I completed my circle to South Lake, but clouds and haze kept thickening. My route was a pleasant loop of about seven miles. Not much of a day for pix, but a few more are
here.
Mt. Kineo - Moosehead Lake, Maine (October 8, 2009)
On his third visit to the Maine Woods, in July 1857, Thoreau and a companion paddled the length of Moosehead Lake, from Greenville in the south to the Northeast Carry, in the birch bark canoe of their remarkable Native American guide, Joe Polis. Where the Lake pinches down to a one-mile channel in the middle, they camped on the east shore of that channel. There, while Joe Polis fished for trout, Thoreau and companion climbed to the summit of Mt. Kineo - a "great mass of rock rising precipitately 800 feet above the surface of the Moosehead."
buckyball and I were happy not to be paddling today, as the choppy waters washed over the low bow of our little pontoon ferry during our 10-minute crossing from Rockwood. The steep Indian Trail to the summit Tower more than compensated in terrific views for its tricky footing, made worse by wet leaves. What a remarkable collection of vistas of neighboring mountains:
and the Lake:
for a hike of not quite 4 miles! The Bridle Trail down makes a mellow loop. A few more photos are
here.
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This completes my Thoreau 16. I know of two previous finishers - Henry David himself and, a couple of years later, RoySwkr.
"On tops of mountains, as everywhere to hopeful souls, it is always morning."
H. D. Thoreau