Tough Day Pliny Weeks Range Traverse 1/31/09

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Jazzbo

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Waltham, MA Jazzbo & Marty meet Bigfoot on Kenne
Sorry to borrow Big Earl's tag line, but that's what we had yesterday. But we did have a comic encounter with some moose at the end. FF to end for that story. I don't usually like long TR's, but this is a long TR for a long tough day.

Let me start by saying I would not recommend attempting this route in winter. This is one of those ideas that seemed like a good idea at the time. Five of us (Dr D, Onestep, Oncoman, Peakbagger, and myself) joined forces to attempt a traverse of the Pliny Range and Weeks Range. Fortunately we were well equipped and in reasonably good shape to deal with the situation. The latest AMC Maps indicates the total distance of 12.2 miles. It turned out be a 15+ hour snowshoe tramp that entailed a great deal of trail breaking and route-finding. I’m sure some of our younger fireballs would have done this in much less time than we did.

The winter parking lot was plowed, but very icy. No one wanted to get stuck in it, so we drove up Cottage Road to the summer trailhead and parked there. It’s nice the town plows the lot (probably for the hikers) but it ain’t no use unless it gets sanded as well. We managed to get underway at 8:00AM. There were many other folks snowshoeing up the trail to Starr King and Waumbek. We passed them and made it to Waumbek around 11:00.

At Waumbek we discovered a steel crampon fractured on Oncoman’s MSR Denali snowshoe. Not a good omen for a long day on a remote ridge. At first we tried using electrical ties that many people carry, but these just we’re strong enough for this application. We managed to make a pretty good field repair using a piece of 6 mm climbing rope I carry along just in case. Oncoman made the remaining 8 more miles on this. Judging from the wear and tear I observed on crampon teeth, IMHO it wasn’t manufacturing defect, but simply a fact of too many miles. Oncoman needs to get a new pair of Denali’s. The Leatherman Wave multi-tool also proved to be helpful winter gear tool in removing the small ring. We lost half and hour dealing with this and moved on.

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The sun began breaking through clouds as we proceeded along to the end of Pliny Range ridge. The 10-12 inches of new snow from last week’s storm and 2-3 inches from Friday night’s snow showers coated the tree trunks with snow making it hard spot yellow blazes. Thus began our all day struggle to stay on the trail. It seemed we spent as much time off the trail as on it.

We descended into the col between the Pliny Range and the Weeks Range and managed to make it to the summit of South Weeks at 2:00. This was pretty late time to arrive at approximate ½ way point and so much unbroken trail remaining. Rather than turn back and return the way we came we opted to continue figuring we’d be walking out by headlamp at 8 PM or so. NOT!!!!!

We were further lulled into false sense of security by making it to Middle Weeks by 3:00. I snapped a couple of pictures on Middel Weeks.

Onestep and Oncoman.

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Dr D's summit photo on Middle Weeks.

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We thought we should make it to North Weeks by 5:00 just around dark. We promptly lost the trail and descended into the very deep col that lay before North Weeks. This col is down at 3200’ and summit is at 3901’ making for a 700' climb. The climb to the summit was arduous with steep climbs through thick spruce in deep snow. We took 3+ hours to reach the summit at 6:00. We adjusted layers and hydrated ASAP and headed north on the newly rediscovered trail and promptly lost it again. No matter as we just held to our compass bearing and followed staying just right of the ridge line down to Willard Notch. On the way down we spotted the bright orange halogen light at the hatchery. It made it seem like we only had a short way to go. NOT!!!

We arrived at the York Pond Trail and turned right with only 2.4 miles to go. It was getting pretty late and we really didn’t want to lose the trail now. The wind was kicking up and we knew it was sub-zero. Oncoman had a massive ice formation on his mustache and beard. We managed to stay on the trail, but were still troubled by the snow-coated tree trunks. We were able to detect indentations in the snow of the treadway and lanes in the forest. It would have been nice if there were more blazes. We began to see the light at the hatchery again which helped some in navigation. Progress was slow.

It was getting later and all of us were suffering from the cold. The York Pond Trail descends some 1200’ as it slabs down the side of hill from the junction. Things got a little hairy when we arrived in the lowlands where we again lost the trail. The terrain becomes very irregular with many meandering stream beds. It was tiring climbing in and out of the stream beds. We feared wasting time wandering in this area so we asked Oncoman to check his GPS one more to minimize wandering. Pierre’s hands were shaking from the cold. We were feeling apprehensive. We appeared to have 0.8 miles to go. We resumed following the NE bearing the trail was supposed to follow. We were very pleased when 2 minutes later we popped out on the trail again.

We spotted a blaze from time to time, but we did go long stretches without seeing them which didn’t do much to bolster our confidence. The trail seemed to have a packed trail underneath the snow and the breaking was easier. Then low and behold we came to the junction with the Bunnel Notch Trail. We were happy now! This section indeed had some packed trail under the snow and breaking was even better. Oncoman went into high gear and beat us all back to Dr D’s car. It was now 11:20PM.

Amazing that headlamps can go 5+ hours with no brownouts. I put new Lithium Ion batteries to the test.

Now for some comic relief. We got started at 11:50PM. Driving along shortly after passing the fish hatchery buildings, we all yelled and Dr D came to a screeching halt when we came upon a cow moose and her calf standing in the road. What followed was a lesson in mother – calf behavior. The road was lined with high snow banks. We watched in awe for a time, and would have watched longer, but we were anxious to get back to the other cars. We started up slowly and the two moose trotted along to match our speed. When they wandered over to the side of the road, Thom’s first impulse was to try to pass by them. Instead of letting us pass, the mother broke into a run and the calf followed. We slowed down to 2 MPH again and attempted to pass them numerous times with the same result. The mother seemed reluctant to leap over them since the calf might not be able to follow. So we simply puttered along at 2 MPH hoping to come to a turnout or section side enough to pass them. The mother moose finally decided to jump the snow bank and after some trepidation the calf followed. So ended our amusing moose encounter.

Speaking of moose we observed numerous signs of moose yards all along the summit ridges. Many of them had the little hollows where the moose were bedding down. There were many fresh tracks and scat. How do they survive up there? What do they eat???

I bought a bag of popcorn for the ride home and noticed I had hard time picking up the popcorn since my finger tips were numb. Must have a touch of frostbite.
 
That was an epic if there ever was one! To find yourself on Weeks after dark with 4 miles of unbroken trail ahead of you must have been very unsettling. When Onestep invited me to go along with you folks, I had to reluctantly decline. I can't honestly say that I am still disappointed...

Congratulations for keeping your wits about you and persevering. You set a good example for others to follow.
 
Wow, guys!! Jazzbo, nice report. I hope you all still had fun....

It was beautiful in the woods with all that fresh snow on the trees. But, having it dump down your neck was NOT fun.;)

At least you had some comic relief....
 
Wow Ray, what a trip! Not sure what you can do to top that one!
(Perhaps you’ll just let it remain “un-topped”?);)

And, since your title incorporated a tag line from BIGEarl’s Mt. Washington report, I’ll take the liberty of quoting a line of text included in BIGEarl’s report.
(It seems like it might be applicable to your adventure as well.):)

“All of us had our fill of fresh air for the day.” ~ BIGEarl
 
I read your report with a great sense on being there. Nice job by the 5 of you.

I gotta think that there were some "Damn what have we gotten into?" moments. particularly in the cold .

Those LED headlamps are great and will work all night in cold.
OR any good lamp will burn a long time with the lighter and much stronger lithiums.

By the way, Oncoman's Denali binding/crampn may be replaced free by MSR.

Call them.

I did when I blew out a Televator bar last weekend on S Twin and they shipped me 2 free.
 
MSR's bindings

I agree MSR will with a phone call replace the bindings, but at some point the rest of a snowshoe gets too beat up to bother. Like replacing a transmission on a car with 150,000 miles on it and the engine is about to go anyway. Why bother when most of other critical components are so beat up. I noticed the steel crampons on bottom of the shoe were pretty worn. Also the plastic grippy parts were worn. These are features that add up to great traction that make the MSR's so versatile for going up or down in steep snow and moderate ice. I confess time didn't permit thorough examination of the snowshoe, but I did notice all the teeth on the crampon and the longitudinal teeth were pretty worn. Cause of failure was fatigue cracking. Design is fundemntally good. All components reaching end of useful life at around same time. It's up to the user to realize those traction features do wear out and it's time to replace them. I see so many "old hands" out there with really worn out MSR's that are really at end of service life. Which is not good because they're ones who attempt audacious stuff above treeline where field repairs are not easy. Tire manufacturers now put wear bars on tires that indicate to users that tire is worn out. Perhaps MSR should engrave something on crampons indicate they are worn out - time to replace. (BTW in real life I'm licensed mechanical engineer.) IMO Oncoman should just buy new pair and get back on the trail quick. This time of year snowshoes are deep discounted items. I recommend ORS Snowshoe Direct of Montpelior VT. They have great prices and ship stuff FAST! http://www.orssnowshoesdirect.com/
 
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Jazzbo did a great job with the trip report, but I think he understated a few items.

The snow conditions were nasty, 10 to 20 inches of powder in spots on top of a weak crust that wouldnt hold the weight of a snowshoe, therefore every step forward was a couple of foot drop and then when lifting your foot, you ended up having to rebreak the crust. Going down hill the crust impeded forward progress so it was rare when we could slide or run down the slopes. With the exception of the run up Waumbek, we were breaking trail all the way to the car at York Pond.

The climb up the south side of North weeks was very steep, a comparison is breaking out High Cannon trail with a lot more spruce traps

The ride from the fish hatchery back to Jefferson ended around 1 AM, I live nearby and didnt get to bed until 2Am. Not sure of the others.

Pierre (Oncoman) is a trail breaking and finding machine.

The front of canadian high pressure came through just about sunset, which cleared out the skies and dropped the temperature very quickly.

I had cold finger problems all day even with heat packs. I got numb fingers and thumbs for 2/3rds of the hike which impacted my ability to grip my poles. I eventually switched into an emergency pair of double expedition grade glove liners which helped. Nevertheless I beleive that I am going to have numb finger tips for awhile as a reminder of the trip.

This was a strong group and we made it despite the conditions.Thanks to all for the opportunity!
 
Fingers and Vapor Barrier Gloves

You may want to consider wearing VBL gloves from Stephenson's in NH.. (yeaa!)

http://warmlight.net/vb_shirt.htm

I have first fingr and thumb issues like you fom repetative mountaineering exposure and started using them 3 years ago.
They keep the gloves dry (great on multiday trips)and digits warm.

Buy 2 or 3 pair and switch when your first pair get wet which will happen .
Try them out a few times and you'll feel the difference:

One caveat: When you take them off, keep them warm
I tuck them under my arm (which works when In wearing
a couple of thin micro fleece tops which is most of the "up portion ".

If you take them off and dont keep them warm the will freeze fast as they are thin.

As with all Vapor barrier clothing they work best in the really cold.
 
I gotta think that there were some "Damn what have we gotten into?" moments. particularly in the cold.


I must admit, the traverse took a lot out of me. At one point going up N Weeks I had doubts we would make it out without bivouacking, or worse. I was in a trance the last mile or so. I'm glad you guys where there. My though process was clouded.

I reached Gorham at 2AM and crashed at Hikers Paradise. Not being able to sleep I left at 6:30am for breakfast. While waiting for my Ham & Eggs I started feeling sick. Not being able to eat I asked for a take-out-box. The drive home to Maine was long. Once home I slept most of the day, getting up to watch "the game" only to go back to bed before half time...

This morning I'm feeling better but still fatigued. I'm glad I don't have to work today.

Thanks for a memorable hike!
 
Jazzbo did a great job with the trip report, but I think he understated a few items.

I agree 100% with Peakbagger's comments. Getting out as late as we did, we didn't get any chance for post hike analysis so we're doing this here.

[/QUOTE] Pierre (Oncoman) is a trail breaking and finding machine. [/QUOTE]

Amen to that. Pierre is remarkable!

[/QUOTE] The front of canadian high pressure came through just about sunset, which cleared out the skies and dropped the temperature very quickly. [/QUOTE]

My car thermometer indicated -12F when I left Jefferson. And I've got the numb finger tips as reminder as well.

[/QUOTE] This was a strong group and we made it despite the conditions.Thanks to all for the opportunity! [/QUOTE]

I've been going after objectives to develop my skills in off-trail navigation and I sure learned alot on this one. Thanks to all. You guys rock! :cool:
 
Long day it was, but truly enjoyed the company. A special thanks to my two engineer friends for an excellent field repair job on my broken Denali thus enabling me to complete the traverse. No harsh words & no crying on this one; though there were on that never ending downhill stretch off N. Week in darkness long moments of silence...

Made it home safely but had to stop in rest area to eat (stomach grumbling fiercely) and sleep a few hours. Was home by 11h00, a little tired out I must confess. Made many mistakes during my Sunday P.M. 2 hrs latino dancing session...Hélas my youth's memory & concentration is fading away...
 
Made it home safely but had to stop in rest area to eat (stomach grumbling fiercely) and sleep a few hours.

Congrats Pierre and the rest of the team. Now I know why you don't
eat during those long hike after the hike with your master saturday (Pin Pin).
13 hours of hiking for Allen mtn and he just don't eat anything at all.....
 
I thank Jazzman for posting the fine report and photos, and Onestep, Peakbagger, and Oncoman for their replies, and all four of them for making this one my most exciting winter trips in a long time.

John Swanson admonished me for not joining him on winter NHHH adventures over a decade ago, but I was content at the time with just puttering away at my winter NEHH list. Of course, John was right, as over the past decade I have logged many solo winter failures on NHHH peaks, a list that I never tackled in all-season. These failures included four winter attempts to get Middle Weeks (made it twice each to North and South Weeks), primarily for lack of partners to share the trail breaking.

When Onestep and I organized this trip a couple of weeks ago, we were thinking that it might end up being just the two of us. So, we were delighted when Jazzman signed on, followed by Peakbagger, and then Oncoman. Although we were especially happy to have Oncoman with his legendary bushwhacking experience joining the effort, I was a little nervous because his addition was the result of his Maine trip getting cancelled because of the recent snowstorms, and I have always believed the Kilkenny to be one of the snowiest pockets in the Northeast.

Nevertheless, within the first half mile or so of the Starr King Trail, the five of us quickly caught up with a pair including a blind man (I was really impressed with this guy) and three guys including a young boy who told me that it was now my turn to break trail. After thanking the three for their efforts, I chuckled to myself, as at that point we were breaking only 6-8 inches of recent powder from the past two days of snow flurries and I knew that the well-broken trail under the recent fluff would end at Waumbek. Surprisingly, I discovered the broken trail ended about 20 meters short of the summit sign, where the serious trail breaking would commence. Upon their arrival, Oncoman’s broken MSR was not a good omen, but as the two with engineering degrees worked on the shoe, Onestep and I set off to break out the ridge east of Waumbek, as I did not think that my geology degrees would be much use on Waumbek. I suggested to Onestep that if the others did not catch us within an hour, we should probably call it a day, to which he agreed. Oncoman, Jazzman, and Peakbagger caught us in about 40 minutes, which given their 30-minute repair time meant that they caught up with us in about 10 minutes, testimony to the difference a broken trail makes to forward progress.

Despite much deeper snow and a more difficult time with route finding this trip, we reached South Weeks, the half way point in distance, in about 10 minutes faster time than I did with a much larger group on New Year’s Day a few years ago, when the leaders decided that we would turn around. Although there was a brief discussion about bailing this time, no one felt pressured into continuing, so on we went. I believe that Oncoman was joking when he said that even if we did not finish until midnight, the full traverse would be worth the effort. I was chuckling to myself again thinking that we had better do better than midnight. About an hour later I was slightly in the lead upon our arrival at Middle Weeks, where I scurried a moose off the summit (perhaps Dad moose, with Mom and kid remaining below at the Fish Hatchery?). Given the extensive fresh moose tracks on all three summits, I surmise that moose not only highly value the forage at these higher elevations in the winter, but also have their own peakbagging list a la Midnight Mike Bromberg’s.

During our photoshoot on Middle Weeks, Onestep projected that we would be on the summit of North Weeks in another hour, which I thought was only slightly optimistic. But, in retrospect, it was the vertical elevation gain on the south side of North Weeks (about 700 ft, vs. about 300 and 200 ft, respectively, for the south sides of South and Middle) that mattered more than the distance, as that 700 ft really knocked the stuffing out of all five of us, I think. But, as Oncoman commented above, “there is no crying in [baseball, er,] bushwhacking,” so we reset our finish time estimate to 8-9 pm. Our line off the north side of Weeks might not have been the best, but it did get us to the valley floor where the blazes along the York Pond Trail were for the most part useful. My guess is that we were only able to follow blazes for about 25% of the 6+ miles between Waumbek and York Pond Trail. My calculations suggest that we were only able to cover 0.7 miles/hour from Waumbek to the Fish Hatchery (8.6 miles in about 12 h, 35 min).

This was my first peakbagging experience that benefitted by use of a GPS (I have used extensively in my geology work and SAR training), and appreciated that Oncoman had brought one with some key way points marked in advance, which was reassuring, even if somewhat disheartening at times. On the other hand, I never checked the thermometer on my pack the entire trip because I really did not wish to know how cold it was. Fortunately, we were in the woods the whole way, so the wind was negligible, as was the crescent moonlight.

I have nothing but admiration and gratitude for my four partners on this hike, my first with Oncoman, Jazzman, and Peakbagger, and second with Onestep. All in all, a decent effort for five guys with an average age well over 50.
 
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Thom ~ A wonderful addendum to Ray's report. Don't usually see posts this long by you and it was a pleasure to read. Congrats to you and the team for a great and memorable adventure.
 
3 hours to climb 700 feet. I wish I had been there. Well, on second thought....

Re: snowshoes. One of my partners buys a new pair of MSR Evo's every year and writes the year on the tail. This saves him some worry about failure of key gear. A large team, traversing rugged conditions can easily carry a spare Northern Lite snowshoe (one pound). I have done this and while descending Cliff towards Livingston Pond one group member's MSR shoe literally disintegrated beneath his foot. I just gave him the extra shoe and on we went.

Re: cold hands. I knit myself thick oversized wool mitts and washed them in hot water for 25 minutes before machine drying them. My hands shall forget the sensation of cold forevermore.
 
Congrats to you guys. Glad you made it out with so few complications. I don't like close calls anymore but they do make for the best stories.;)
 
cool trip report ... figured your team would be in for some creative route-finding ... blazes along Kilkenny Ridge seem invisible in Winter

with Pliny in the trip report title, i reached a point in your trip report where you said you reached North Weeks at 5:00 ... i half-expected to read on about you backtracking to bushwhack over Mount Pliny in the dark :eek: the other half-expectation running through my mind was that you guys are crazy, until i read that you hiked down to the fish hatchery

thought about joining you but opted for a shorter day playing in Ice Gulch ... we turned back after making very slow progress negotiating "bottomless crevasses" between boulders in the Gulch ... had a weird feeling that if we slipped into one of those holes, we'd still be there ... felt alot like Mahoosuc Notch
 
Way to go pulling together as a team to battle through a tough situation. Great example for all.

On Saturday I went up to South Weeks from the fish hatchery with Steve-o and donna (who predicted a 5-6 hour hike on packed trails :rolleyes:). When we got to Willard Notch the trail was no longer broken. Then the fun began. Breaking trail through the deep snow was an issue, but that paled in comparison to the effort necessary to find the trail. The trees were covered with snow which obscured most of the blazes. We frequently had to scout ahead to find the next blaze before we could continue. It took us six hours to travel 2.5 miles from Willard Notch to the summit of South Weeks. And we didn't have to deal with cold or darkness.
 
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