waterfallfred
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- Jan 3, 2005
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"I am the Partner (Trap Dike Accident)" waterfallfred
Alan and I left South Meadow at 6:15 am and attempted to ski the Truck Road to Marcy Dam. Conditions for skiing were not good so we abandoned the skis after 1/2 hour. We hiked to the base of the Dike arriving approx 10 am. We were expecting alot of ice (not much snow) and were not disappointed. We had 75' of rope and 6 ice screws. We passed the lower steep section very quickly bypassing most on the right. It was approx 60' high. There was a 25' ice pitch between this lower secton and the main waterfall that I do not remember seeing before (this is my 5th winter accent). Then we reached the main waterfall. 75' was just enough to top out. above this there was one more 30' ice pitch which we bypassed on the left to save time. We left the dike at 2pm and started up the angled (steeper) slab (that goes right toward the row of trees to the main slab). We arrived at the "cave" rock at approx 3pm. The slab surface was hard ice with 2" of crunchy snow. We continued up until I was approx 100' before the final slightly steeper final 200'. Alan was 75' below me when he slipped. I did not see him slide but I heard him twice the second much more distant from the first. (Maybe 3 seconds elapsed between the screams). I removed my packpack and removed two headlamps, a face mask and a neck gaitor. and began downclimbing. (See lost and found for Blue backpack).
I reached Alan approx. 10 minutes later at (4:20pm). I found one of his axes (we each carried 2 technical axes) approx. 50' above him with a glove in it, and one of his boots (with crampon on it) about 30' above him each stuck in some brush. Alan was also up against a small tree (bush). After attending to him briefly and putting his boot back on. I called 911 (didn't have the rangers number).
I explained to the dispacher (who may have never taken a call from the mountains) what I needed the rangers to know. TRAP DIKE on MT C O L D E N. tell them we are on the UPPER SLAB. tell them will be attempting to summit and go to Lake A R N O L D. I told him that were were mobile (One of the several miracles (remember the boot, axe, full moon, and not too cold). Also I told him that I didn't expect anyone to come out tonight in the snow (it was now snowing). That if I didn't call back before morning they sould head out. Alan had fell/slid/flew (he says) almost 400'. We opted for a swim though the trees/brush toward the summit. We reached the trail approx 200' North of the summit approx 3.5 hours later. We hiked slowly over to the smaller Colden summit and down to Lake Arnold. Arriving at approx 8:30. Even though I have been to Lake arnold approx 10 times I couldn't figure out where to go once I reached the sign pointing back up Mt. Colden. The actual juction of the trails is aprox 100' away but I hiked in circles for approx. 30 minutes in the camping area looking for the trail that didn't look like it was heading towards Feldspar. Approx 10 minutes after realizing my mistake we met up with Rangers Joe and Charlie. (the faster I guess) of 8 that were following the path I had described to 911.
(They had also sent 1 ranger from the interior outpost at Lake Colden to look for a headlamp in the dike.) They did a check of Alan and gave him a fresh pair of mittens and Alan continued to walk out on his own. Approx 1.5 hours later we were all at the Outpost at Marcy Dam. Somehow 911 reported that there was a party of 8. Alan was very happy to see them and they did give us a snowmobile ride back to South Meadow. I thank them very much and they were all very nice people. I give Alan credit for continuing on in alot of pain. He had an MRI on his knee earlier today, but he is already walking better. (When he woke up the next day he could not walk) He had stabbed his foot (without the boot) with his other foot and he had bump and scratch on his chin. He was wearing his HELMET. I really didn't know or think anyone would be coming for us until morning and I needed Alan to know he had to help himself. I appologize for pushing so hard. (I actually said "Excuse me if I am being curt..." - it's from Pulp Fiction) and he laughed. Alan is a good kid and we rented Touching the Void tonight. Thanks again to the rangers. I appologized repeatedly for them having to come out since we did get ourselves off the mountain, they were just happy Alan was OK. Last thing, if you need them call 518-891-0235 not 911. Fred(waterfallfred)
Sorry a bit more: 1) Alan did not go to the hospital as reported but went to his orthopedist in Englewood the next day. (His other knee was banged up earlier in the year in a Football game).
2) He walked to Marcy Dam. (The rangers were going to South Meadow where thier trucks were so we rode the snowmobiles with them).
3) We were a party of two.
Also: (my other post)
Lost on upper Colden Slide (approx 300' from summit) on normal route from the Trap Dike. Blue backpack with snowshoes, misc items incuding ice screws, belay jacket, GLASSES, fleese jacket and chocolate truffles, more. REWARD Had to abandon to rescue partner who slid 400' down slide. Was unable to retrive Dec 26. Will not stay on slide for long. Partner was able to walk out, but Rangers were called and met up with us at Lake Arnold.
Thanks all. Fred
Complete contents of (cheap) Blue backpack.
Snowshoes (wooden), green down belay jacket, Tarp 5'x7', Blue fleese jacket
4 Omega Ice screws (13cm), 2 Titanim Ibis Ice screws 18cm, 4 new spagetti runners (2 regular length, 2 double), 3 or 4 quick draws, 75' of 10.5 mm rope, a bag of battery's (aa), compass, my GLASSES in purple case AND a bag of Chocolate Truffles.
Alan and I left South Meadow at 6:15 am and attempted to ski the Truck Road to Marcy Dam. Conditions for skiing were not good so we abandoned the skis after 1/2 hour. We hiked to the base of the Dike arriving approx 10 am. We were expecting alot of ice (not much snow) and were not disappointed. We had 75' of rope and 6 ice screws. We passed the lower steep section very quickly bypassing most on the right. It was approx 60' high. There was a 25' ice pitch between this lower secton and the main waterfall that I do not remember seeing before (this is my 5th winter accent). Then we reached the main waterfall. 75' was just enough to top out. above this there was one more 30' ice pitch which we bypassed on the left to save time. We left the dike at 2pm and started up the angled (steeper) slab (that goes right toward the row of trees to the main slab). We arrived at the "cave" rock at approx 3pm. The slab surface was hard ice with 2" of crunchy snow. We continued up until I was approx 100' before the final slightly steeper final 200'. Alan was 75' below me when he slipped. I did not see him slide but I heard him twice the second much more distant from the first. (Maybe 3 seconds elapsed between the screams). I removed my packpack and removed two headlamps, a face mask and a neck gaitor. and began downclimbing. (See lost and found for Blue backpack).
I reached Alan approx. 10 minutes later at (4:20pm). I found one of his axes (we each carried 2 technical axes) approx. 50' above him with a glove in it, and one of his boots (with crampon on it) about 30' above him each stuck in some brush. Alan was also up against a small tree (bush). After attending to him briefly and putting his boot back on. I called 911 (didn't have the rangers number).
I explained to the dispacher (who may have never taken a call from the mountains) what I needed the rangers to know. TRAP DIKE on MT C O L D E N. tell them we are on the UPPER SLAB. tell them will be attempting to summit and go to Lake A R N O L D. I told him that were were mobile (One of the several miracles (remember the boot, axe, full moon, and not too cold). Also I told him that I didn't expect anyone to come out tonight in the snow (it was now snowing). That if I didn't call back before morning they sould head out. Alan had fell/slid/flew (he says) almost 400'. We opted for a swim though the trees/brush toward the summit. We reached the trail approx 200' North of the summit approx 3.5 hours later. We hiked slowly over to the smaller Colden summit and down to Lake Arnold. Arriving at approx 8:30. Even though I have been to Lake arnold approx 10 times I couldn't figure out where to go once I reached the sign pointing back up Mt. Colden. The actual juction of the trails is aprox 100' away but I hiked in circles for approx. 30 minutes in the camping area looking for the trail that didn't look like it was heading towards Feldspar. Approx 10 minutes after realizing my mistake we met up with Rangers Joe and Charlie. (the faster I guess) of 8 that were following the path I had described to 911.
(They had also sent 1 ranger from the interior outpost at Lake Colden to look for a headlamp in the dike.) They did a check of Alan and gave him a fresh pair of mittens and Alan continued to walk out on his own. Approx 1.5 hours later we were all at the Outpost at Marcy Dam. Somehow 911 reported that there was a party of 8. Alan was very happy to see them and they did give us a snowmobile ride back to South Meadow. I thank them very much and they were all very nice people. I give Alan credit for continuing on in alot of pain. He had an MRI on his knee earlier today, but he is already walking better. (When he woke up the next day he could not walk) He had stabbed his foot (without the boot) with his other foot and he had bump and scratch on his chin. He was wearing his HELMET. I really didn't know or think anyone would be coming for us until morning and I needed Alan to know he had to help himself. I appologize for pushing so hard. (I actually said "Excuse me if I am being curt..." - it's from Pulp Fiction) and he laughed. Alan is a good kid and we rented Touching the Void tonight. Thanks again to the rangers. I appologized repeatedly for them having to come out since we did get ourselves off the mountain, they were just happy Alan was OK. Last thing, if you need them call 518-891-0235 not 911. Fred(waterfallfred)
Sorry a bit more: 1) Alan did not go to the hospital as reported but went to his orthopedist in Englewood the next day. (His other knee was banged up earlier in the year in a Football game).
2) He walked to Marcy Dam. (The rangers were going to South Meadow where thier trucks were so we rode the snowmobiles with them).
3) We were a party of two.
Also: (my other post)
Lost on upper Colden Slide (approx 300' from summit) on normal route from the Trap Dike. Blue backpack with snowshoes, misc items incuding ice screws, belay jacket, GLASSES, fleese jacket and chocolate truffles, more. REWARD Had to abandon to rescue partner who slid 400' down slide. Was unable to retrive Dec 26. Will not stay on slide for long. Partner was able to walk out, but Rangers were called and met up with us at Lake Arnold.
Thanks all. Fred
Complete contents of (cheap) Blue backpack.
Snowshoes (wooden), green down belay jacket, Tarp 5'x7', Blue fleese jacket
4 Omega Ice screws (13cm), 2 Titanim Ibis Ice screws 18cm, 4 new spagetti runners (2 regular length, 2 double), 3 or 4 quick draws, 75' of 10.5 mm rope, a bag of battery's (aa), compass, my GLASSES in purple case AND a bag of Chocolate Truffles.
