Trekking to Hutchins Mountain with an Assist from Moose and Loggers (31-Aug-2010)

[1HappyHiker]

In fairly rapid succession, this was yet another day when I was able to join Steve on one of his adventures. This exploit involved a trek that was a pure bushwhack from start to finish. It's difficult to pin down the exact mileage, but I guesstimate the round-trip was a minimum of 5 miles. The destination was Hutchins Mountain (sometimes referred to a Mt. Pilot). This peak tops out at 3,730 ft, and it's included on the NH 100 Highest list. It's also included on the list of 124 peaks in all of New England to have an altitude of greater than 3700 ft. (with at least 160 ft of clean prominence)

Below is a view looking northward along the Pilot Range toward Hutchins Mountain (snapshot taken in mid-November from The Horn).

A thumbnail sketch of our route is as follows. We started from the end of Mill Brook Road and began heading westerly toward the east end of the ridge that curves up to meet the main ridge of the Pilot Range at a point about 0.3 mile southeast of the summit of Hutchins. Upon reaching the main ridge, we headed northwesterly toward the summit of Hutchins. Just for variety, we descended via a route that varied a bit from our ascent route. However, we did follow the same ridge, and we used a roughly similar course from the end of the ridge back to the road.

Overall, we encountered mainly open woods for the entire trek. Speaking purely for myself, I found this to be totally amazing! Admittedly, during our ascent, we did hit one short-lived patch of thick stuff near the point where we joined the main ridge. However, by tweaking our course to trek slightly more east of the main ridge, we found the woods to be much more open.

The title of this report indicates that our trek involved some assistance from moose and loggers. This was not just an attempt to grab attention, but actually has a factual basis. Purely by luck during our ascent, we came upon what appeared to be an old tote road used by loggers many decades ago. We were able to follow this corridor for several tenths of a mile which made for some fast and easy trekking. There was plenty of evidence to indicate that the moose made frequent use of this corridor as well. And speaking of moose, during our descent (at about 2,950 ft) we stumbled upon a well-defined & well-used moose path that ran right down the spine of the ridge. As with the logging tote road mentioned earlier, this corridor continued for quite a long distance, and made for effortless trekking down some of the steeper parts of the ridge.

It was very interesting to read some historic reference material supplied to me by Steve. Particularly fascinating was the fact that the area around the summit of Hutchins was cleared of all trees in the late 19th century in order to make way for a signal station. In the Sweester's 1876 guidebook there's a comment which states: "The summit is nearly bare". He goes on to provide a detailed description of all the views from the bare summit. And, in an old edition of Appalachia (Volume IV), it was interesting to read a report that provides details of an early exploration of the Pilot Range around 1886. It's mind-boggling to think that explorations such as this were ongoing during the same general time-frame as Custer's Last Stand at the Little Bighorn!

Well, as with many hikes, it's as much about the journey as it is the actual destination. Here are a few snapshots of some nice scenery we saw along the way.

Beautiful Birch Glade

A Meadow About to Turn Golden; and a Vignette of Fern and Hobble Bush with Leaves Already Turned Red

From the summit of Hutchins, we whacked through really thick stuff (but for just a very short distance) to reach some small ledges that face generally southward. The fog/haze was too thick for the distant views of peaks in the Presidential Range, and many other major peaks to the south in the Twin and Franconia Range. However, there was a terrific view of the many lumps & bumps in the Pilot Range, including the major peaks of this Range (The Horn, The Bulge, Mt. Cabot).

Peaks in Pilot Range as Seen from Hutchins Mountain

Perhaps it's simply due to the limitations of my "point & shoot" camera, but regardless, the snapshot below is the best I was able to capture of what I feel is a rather unique view from Hutchins.
The zoomed shot below shows the profile of Rogers Ledge, Square Mountain, and Greens Ledge.

Profile of Rogers Ledge, Square Mountain, and Greens Ledge

The Kilkenny is certainly a beautifully wild and remote region that provides some excellent trekking regardless of whether you're doing an on-trail hike, or bushwhacking.

1HappyHiker

 

[NeoAkela]

Great report, John! I wasn't sure if there was any view from that peak - glad to know that there is. I've traveled up Lost Nation road a few times during Foliage season and wondered if there were any public inlets from that side - I hadn't considered going in from Mill Brook.

My map shows a small section of private land right on the col between two of the minor peaks in the Pilot Range, completely surrounded by the WMNF. Any ideas of what that is? I had thought about following the ridge from the Bulge back a few years ago, but was unsure about traversing that spot.

 

[1HappyHiker]

My map shows a small section of private land right on the col between two of the minor peaks in the Pilot Range, completely surrounded by the WMNF. Any ideas of what that is?

Chris . . . thanks for your reply.

Regarding the section of private land that you mentioned, someone such as Steve Smith would be able to answer your question much better and more fully than I can.

From my limited knowledge, I think the plot of private land encompasses the 3,570 peak that I think was once known simply as East Pilot (or something like that). However, it's now referred to as Mount Mary. I think it was renamed in honor of Mary Edgerton who was the mother-in-law of Bruce Sloat (who used to work for AMC, and who is/was the landowner). I'm uncertain, but I think the land has changed ownership. When owned by Mr. Sloat, he reportedly was agreeable to have hikers access his property.

 

[peakbagger]

The area west of the ridgeline (and a large block of northern NH and eastern VT was owned by Diamond Occidental Forest Incorporated (AKA DOFI) and Brown Company owned some. About 25 years ago DOFI was bought out by a corporate raider that split up the company and sold off the timberlands. A large number of the tracts including the Lost Nation road properties were sold sight unseen at an auction to people who thought they would make a killing on owning prime NH timberland. Subsequently these parcels changed hands as people learned that the return on NH timberland was pretty low, although some folks got their money back by doing some very intensive cutting and some subdivision. The properties used to change hands every few years along Lost Nation road but I havent seen any large parcels up except for Dillon's cut over mess that sold several years ago. (this was the one that he got prosecuted over blatent disregard for basic cutting practices). The DOFI auction was one of the major drivers for what eventually became the Northern Forest Initiative and unfortunately was the start of the unbundling of large blocks of private owned timberland into fractionated lots (which continues today)

I dont know if Bruce Sloat picked up the parcel discussed during the auction but it did come complete with a very well built logging road that went at least 2/3rds of the elevation up to "Mt Mary". Bruce also built a small hydro dam that was used to power a cider mill at one time.

When a hiking partner and I decided to hike the ridge many years ago, we stopped by and Bruce gave us directions to the logging road that left the upper pasture. He was proud of the bench he had made up top of the mountain. We followed Bruces trail to Mt Mary slightly south than hiked N bushwhacked the ridgeline north to North of Hutchins mountain, finding several bottles on minor summits on the ridge. We did get a couple of obscure views along the way but mostly we got beat up by the spruce fir along the way. There were occasional somewhat more mature softwood stands but mostly it was thick. This was pre GPS and map and compass wasnt worth much due to the lack of views and a relatively flat ridgeline, we almost did pick the wrong drainage to descend but recovered and made our way down the next drainage up from Bruce's place via a far less well established logging road system.

 

[RoySwkr]

However, it's now referred to as Mount Mary. I think it was renamed in honor of Mary Edgerton who was the mother-in-law of Bruce Sloat (who used to work for AMC, and who is/was the landowner). I'm uncertain, but I think the land has changed ownership. When owned by Mr. Sloat, he reportedly was agreeable to have hikers access his property.

I believe that Mary was Bruce Sloat's wife.

I have only hiked Pilots in winter but both times he was happy to see hikers, as he didn't want to break trail up there himself. He built a cabin on the tract which he offered to let us eat lunch in although being sunny we ate outside. He has sold the property at the end of the road and reportedly the new owner bought it for privacy and is less friendly, I don't know if he still owns the summit and cabin.

 

[RoySwkr]

Pilot may be a rare peak that used to be climbed more often than it is now. I remember an Appalachia article ~1907 that 30+ people had climbed it on a trip of the Snow Shoe Section - wonder if that many climb it in a whole winter now.

It's also included on the list of 124 peaks in all of New England to have an altitude of greater than 3700 ft. (with at least 160 ft of clean prominence)

Surely one of the wackiest combinations in existence, I can't imagine why it was chosen

But I suppose I shouldn't complain, it's yet another list I completed before seeing it

 

[albee]

I believe that Mary was Bruce Sloat's wife.

I have only hiked Pilots in winter but both times he was happy to see hikers, as he didn't want to break trail up there himself. He built a cabin on the tract which he offered to let us eat lunch in although being sunny we ate outside. He has sold the property at the end of the road and reportedly the new owner bought it for privacy and is less friendly, I don't know if he still owns the summit and cabin.

Roy is correct on the first part. Bruce still owns the cabin and a parcel of land high up on the ridge, but his health had been failing as of 2 or 3 years ago and I'm not sure if he's still with us. The owner of the property on Lost Nation Rd is actually pretty friendly and freely allowed me to hike across his property. The cabin was a really beautiful place and Bruce had affixed a box to the nearby summit tree for bushwhackers to use as a register. When I finished my hike (including Mt. Mary, Middle Pilot, and Mt. Hutchins) the owner invited me in to dinner with his family. They were very kind and we discussed ways for future hikers to let them know that they would like access to the property. As I left, they said to just knock at the house and they'll more than likely let you walk up their logging road to the ridge. Enjoy!

 

[1HappyHiker]

Peakbagger; Roy; Alan: Thanks guys for sharing your knowledge about the peak in the Pilot Range now known as Mt. Mary.
-----------------------------------------------------------

It's also included on the list of 124 peaks in all of New England to have an altitude of greater than 3700 ft. (with at least 160 ft of clean prominence).

Surely one of the wackiest combinations in existence, I can't imagine why it was chosen.
But I suppose I shouldn't complain, it's yet another list I completed before seeing it.

Roy, there was no particular reason for choosing to include that particular list in my report. My sincerest congratulations to you for having completed that list, as well as all the other lists you've completed! You've covered a lot of ground and seen a lot!

When I finished my hike (including Mt. Mary, Middle Pilot, and Mt. Hutchins) the owner invited me in to dinner with his family.

Wow Alan! That was quite an accomplishment to hike all 3 peaks and then still have time left over for a dinner invitation. You da' man!

 

[RoySwkr]

there was no particular reason for choosing to include that particular list in my report.

I was surprised that Peakbagger posted such a peculiar list

There was an historical list of 3700-footers for those who weren't quite ready to jump from 100 peaks to 451, but it used the traditional 200-foot average col - more like 180' clean since the maps then had 20' contours

 

[Mattl]

Second to last picture is really beautiful, nice job.

 

[audrey]

Pat and I also met Mr. Sloat when we set out to climb Hutchins in July 1994. I thought it amusing that he proceeded to give Pat the directions on Hutchins and Mt. Mary in spite of the fact that I was the one with the compass, map, and altimeter. A very pleasant gentleman, he invited us to hike his land any time. Thanks for the information, everyone. I didn't know his name.

 

[1HappyHiker]

. . .there was no particular reason for choosing to include that particular list in my report.

I was surprised that Peakbagger posted such a peculiar list. There was an historical list of 3700-footers for those who weren't quite ready to jump from 100 peaks to 451, but it used the traditional 200-foot average col - more like 180' clean since the maps then had 20' contours

Roy, thanks for the clarification and additional info.

Second to last picture is really beautiful, nice job.

Thanks Matt!!

Pat and I also met Mr. Sloat when we set out to climb Hutchins in July 1994. I thought it amusing that he proceeded to give Pat the directions on Hutchins and Mt. Mary in spite of the fact that I was the one with the compass, map, and altimeter. A very pleasant gentleman, he invited us to hike his land any time.

Audrey, that is indeed an amusing story! Thanks for sharing.