Jim lombard
New member
I'm back in NH after working for three weeks in and around Kangundo and Tala in Kenya. The three of us had a fantastic time on Kilimanjaro even if all didn't go as planned.
Moshi, Tanzania to Machame Gate 8-16
We left the hotel around 9:30am, it was a noisy, confusing time but we managed to get all our bags loaded and the bus took off for downtown Moshi. In Moshi Mama Zara and the guides hired porters and cooks, loaded bags of rice and vegetables. People pressed in on all sides trying to sell us hats, t-shirts and other souvenirs. Finally we turned north for the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro National Park.
We drove past small villages where most of the houses that lined the road were marked with a large red X. Fitz, our Kenyan friend explained that these people had built their homes too close to the road and they would be demolished. These tiny villages were built right into the side of the mountain and on every square inch of their property was some sort of crop. Because of the rich volcanic soil these Shambas (farms) grew coffee, banana, shuma, spinach and papaya in abundance.
Somehow the bus made it up the narrow rutted dirt road past Machame village and up to the gate without getting stuck. This is the dry season here in east Africa but in the rainforest it’s still a bit muddy. It was a zoo getting all the gear sorted, signing in at the gate, showing your passport, etc….we started hiking at noon, elevation was 6,000 feet.
The path has been relocated because of erosion and the park workers have transported tons of crushed volcanic rock and this is your footing for the first few kilometers (crunch-crunch-crunch.) Our guide Mohamed caught up with us as the forest grew more and more exotic. Thick vines hung down from huge trees, it looked very much like how I pictured an African jungle from reading Tarzan as a kid.
We were passed by dozens of porters as they went on ahead to set up camp for all the parties climbing to Machame camp on this day. They each carried 20KG (44lbs) on their head and moved very fast despite the burden.
We hoped to see monkeys during the first day and at about 7,500 feet we came across a troop of Colubus monkeys with several adults and two babies. They looked like big tree skunks to this New Englander, color was very much the same. High up in the canopy they jumped across wide spaces from branch to branch, we also got to see them fairly close up as they passed over the trail. Anne attempted to take a picture with the telephoto lens but on her first picture the camera made a funny noise and then stopped working. It remained broken for the entire trip.
At 8,000 feet we took our lunch, the hike so far had been pretty easy, similar to hiking Edmunds path or Garfield trail. We carried our boxed lunch with typical Tanzania food, piece of chicken, small roll, banana, orange, boiled egg and very sugary passion fruit juice.
The path beyond our lunch-stop was a little more slippery and steeper. We passed a small hollow with a waterfall and a strange little shrub called Lobelia which was conical and sort of looked like a big green pineapple. Near here we got our first view of Kilimanjaro through the trees. Fortunately Anne had a back-up camera and we brought some disposable ones also so we stopped and took a few pictures.
We reached a large hollow and saw tents set up all over the place, some in grass, and others on dusty ground. Before going to find our camp we had to sign in at the ranger hut. They put a bucket of iced coke and beer on the table as you filled in all the information. Tempting, but I’d stick with water for now. Mohamed led us to our camp on the other side.
Our tents were set up in the dust and pretty near a Cho (toilet) on a little rise beyond. It was about 6 by the time we stowed our packs, set up sleeping bags and changed into more comfortable footwear. The sun set right at 6:30, went down very quickly and then it got colder, we were just over 10,000 feet. The hike had covered 18 kilometers (11 miles) and over 4,000 feet in elevation gain.
One of our porters (Sabi) came and got us for supper. Anne, Fitz and I sat in our mess tent with a table, chairs and even a candle for illumination. We were given a thermos with hot water, glass mugs and a choice of Chai tea, Milo (hot cocoa) or instant coffee. Nido (powder cream) and a bowl of unrefined cane sugar were set out also. He brought a pot of cucumber soup with bread followed by a meal of beef and potatoes. Dessert was fresh pineapple, bananas and papaya. Not bad!
We cleared out early because the mess tent also serves as sleeping quarters for our porters. Temperature was around 40 degrees and getting colder, we piled into our tents and fell asleep quickly. I woke at midnight to visit the cho and looked up to see an amazing array of stars. It was a new phase of the moon so it was very dark and you could see details up there that you just can’t see back home.
Machame Camp to Shira Camp 8-17
Awoke at 6:30 to a bustling camp, there were many groups here, some small and some large. After some tinkering Anne’s camera was still not working so Fitz offered her his camera body and they just switched lenses. She loves to take pictures and had been disappointed that she wouldn’t be able to use her long lens, thank you Fitz!
Mohamed at last nights briefing told us that the hike today would be steeper as we pass over an area called Shira Cathedrals on the way to Shira plateau. Breakfast was porridge, toast, eggs and hot dogs along with the usual Milo and Chai. Our 1.5 liter water bottles were refilled with boiled water, we had two each.
We climbed steeply at first with no switchbacks over a dusty trail, each step brought up a plume of fine brown powder. It reminded me of climbing peaks on a ridge; you’d reach the top of one and see the next one a bit higher ahead. The trail was lined with paper dry white flowers and stands of Erica shrubs. We were above the jungle and in what they call the Moorlands. We ate lunch in a hollow between the highest of the cathedrals (11,500) and the base of the final slope before Shira plateau. It was amusing to find a table and chairs set up just off the trail with a plate of popcorn and biscuits. The usual Milo and Chai were followed by a hot lunch. The landscape here was amazing, alien looking plants (Stoebe Kilimandsharica) and shrubs (Erica Arborea) and huge rocks. Ever present ravens with their white chest patch circled around looking for something to steal.
We were treated all day to fine weather and ever present and changing views of Kibo. It was nice to see our objective, it seemed close but we knew it was far away. Mohamed kept us moving pole’ pole’, the sun was brutal in the early afternoon and I was glad to have a wide brim hat.
By 2:30 we arrived atop Shira Plateau, my altimeter said 12,440 but it was reading a bit low, we were at 12,598. I knew day two was considered the easiest and we took full advantage of the warm afternoon sun. We picked up some volcanic glass from around the area and washed some of the dust out of our eyes and noses. Once again our tents were on the dust but we had a quieter location away from the main group. I walked with Mohamed over to the ranger hut a mile or so away which was on the Lemosho route.
The sunset over Shira peak was stunning. As it set, Mt Meru appeared magically as the haze around it cleared. The stately 15,000 foot high peak seemed huge and very far away. Once again when the sun vanished it grew much colder and we retreated to the mess tent for some hot Milo and popcorn followed by dinner. Mohamed stopped by to brief us on the next day when we’d head to Barranco camp on Shira route. We were prepared for a long day.
Shira to Barranco 8-18
We got a little earlier start, all of us slept well except for the usual midnight run to the Cho. Once again I'd paused to look up and see the stars and saw a couple of meteorites flash by. The trail was much flatter this morning; it almost seemed like one of the flat ridges in NH, we were completely above the trees. We were entering the desert zone, we still saw the dry white flowers and a few small Erica shrubs.
All morning it was a steady mild uphill walk, no ups and downs like yesterday. We could now see the great Western Breach above Arrow Glacier but Lava tower was still hidden by a ridge. The area looked like canyon country to me, similar to that of Texas or Arizona. Huge formations of lava rock spilled out the sides of the huge mountain. The scope of the mountain is hard to describe but you felt like ants, it’s much bigger than any mountain I’ve ever seen. They say McKinley is huge too but I’ve never been there.
By 11:00am we arrived at lunch stop, a big black table rock. We were there before any of the other groups and enjoyed lunch in relative quiet. Our group of five with Mohamed leading was hiking at a great pace, we left just as others were arriving. As we cleared the last ridge, Lava tower came into view. We descended and then rose to our high point of the day, 4,600 meters (15,000 feet.) We relaxed for a good hour, Anne climbed part of the way up the dome of rock just playing and feeling great.
Moshi, Tanzania to Machame Gate 8-16
We left the hotel around 9:30am, it was a noisy, confusing time but we managed to get all our bags loaded and the bus took off for downtown Moshi. In Moshi Mama Zara and the guides hired porters and cooks, loaded bags of rice and vegetables. People pressed in on all sides trying to sell us hats, t-shirts and other souvenirs. Finally we turned north for the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro National Park.
We drove past small villages where most of the houses that lined the road were marked with a large red X. Fitz, our Kenyan friend explained that these people had built their homes too close to the road and they would be demolished. These tiny villages were built right into the side of the mountain and on every square inch of their property was some sort of crop. Because of the rich volcanic soil these Shambas (farms) grew coffee, banana, shuma, spinach and papaya in abundance.
Somehow the bus made it up the narrow rutted dirt road past Machame village and up to the gate without getting stuck. This is the dry season here in east Africa but in the rainforest it’s still a bit muddy. It was a zoo getting all the gear sorted, signing in at the gate, showing your passport, etc….we started hiking at noon, elevation was 6,000 feet.
The path has been relocated because of erosion and the park workers have transported tons of crushed volcanic rock and this is your footing for the first few kilometers (crunch-crunch-crunch.) Our guide Mohamed caught up with us as the forest grew more and more exotic. Thick vines hung down from huge trees, it looked very much like how I pictured an African jungle from reading Tarzan as a kid.
We were passed by dozens of porters as they went on ahead to set up camp for all the parties climbing to Machame camp on this day. They each carried 20KG (44lbs) on their head and moved very fast despite the burden.
We hoped to see monkeys during the first day and at about 7,500 feet we came across a troop of Colubus monkeys with several adults and two babies. They looked like big tree skunks to this New Englander, color was very much the same. High up in the canopy they jumped across wide spaces from branch to branch, we also got to see them fairly close up as they passed over the trail. Anne attempted to take a picture with the telephoto lens but on her first picture the camera made a funny noise and then stopped working. It remained broken for the entire trip.
At 8,000 feet we took our lunch, the hike so far had been pretty easy, similar to hiking Edmunds path or Garfield trail. We carried our boxed lunch with typical Tanzania food, piece of chicken, small roll, banana, orange, boiled egg and very sugary passion fruit juice.
The path beyond our lunch-stop was a little more slippery and steeper. We passed a small hollow with a waterfall and a strange little shrub called Lobelia which was conical and sort of looked like a big green pineapple. Near here we got our first view of Kilimanjaro through the trees. Fortunately Anne had a back-up camera and we brought some disposable ones also so we stopped and took a few pictures.
We reached a large hollow and saw tents set up all over the place, some in grass, and others on dusty ground. Before going to find our camp we had to sign in at the ranger hut. They put a bucket of iced coke and beer on the table as you filled in all the information. Tempting, but I’d stick with water for now. Mohamed led us to our camp on the other side.
Our tents were set up in the dust and pretty near a Cho (toilet) on a little rise beyond. It was about 6 by the time we stowed our packs, set up sleeping bags and changed into more comfortable footwear. The sun set right at 6:30, went down very quickly and then it got colder, we were just over 10,000 feet. The hike had covered 18 kilometers (11 miles) and over 4,000 feet in elevation gain.
One of our porters (Sabi) came and got us for supper. Anne, Fitz and I sat in our mess tent with a table, chairs and even a candle for illumination. We were given a thermos with hot water, glass mugs and a choice of Chai tea, Milo (hot cocoa) or instant coffee. Nido (powder cream) and a bowl of unrefined cane sugar were set out also. He brought a pot of cucumber soup with bread followed by a meal of beef and potatoes. Dessert was fresh pineapple, bananas and papaya. Not bad!
We cleared out early because the mess tent also serves as sleeping quarters for our porters. Temperature was around 40 degrees and getting colder, we piled into our tents and fell asleep quickly. I woke at midnight to visit the cho and looked up to see an amazing array of stars. It was a new phase of the moon so it was very dark and you could see details up there that you just can’t see back home.
Machame Camp to Shira Camp 8-17
Awoke at 6:30 to a bustling camp, there were many groups here, some small and some large. After some tinkering Anne’s camera was still not working so Fitz offered her his camera body and they just switched lenses. She loves to take pictures and had been disappointed that she wouldn’t be able to use her long lens, thank you Fitz!
Mohamed at last nights briefing told us that the hike today would be steeper as we pass over an area called Shira Cathedrals on the way to Shira plateau. Breakfast was porridge, toast, eggs and hot dogs along with the usual Milo and Chai. Our 1.5 liter water bottles were refilled with boiled water, we had two each.
We climbed steeply at first with no switchbacks over a dusty trail, each step brought up a plume of fine brown powder. It reminded me of climbing peaks on a ridge; you’d reach the top of one and see the next one a bit higher ahead. The trail was lined with paper dry white flowers and stands of Erica shrubs. We were above the jungle and in what they call the Moorlands. We ate lunch in a hollow between the highest of the cathedrals (11,500) and the base of the final slope before Shira plateau. It was amusing to find a table and chairs set up just off the trail with a plate of popcorn and biscuits. The usual Milo and Chai were followed by a hot lunch. The landscape here was amazing, alien looking plants (Stoebe Kilimandsharica) and shrubs (Erica Arborea) and huge rocks. Ever present ravens with their white chest patch circled around looking for something to steal.
We were treated all day to fine weather and ever present and changing views of Kibo. It was nice to see our objective, it seemed close but we knew it was far away. Mohamed kept us moving pole’ pole’, the sun was brutal in the early afternoon and I was glad to have a wide brim hat.
By 2:30 we arrived atop Shira Plateau, my altimeter said 12,440 but it was reading a bit low, we were at 12,598. I knew day two was considered the easiest and we took full advantage of the warm afternoon sun. We picked up some volcanic glass from around the area and washed some of the dust out of our eyes and noses. Once again our tents were on the dust but we had a quieter location away from the main group. I walked with Mohamed over to the ranger hut a mile or so away which was on the Lemosho route.
The sunset over Shira peak was stunning. As it set, Mt Meru appeared magically as the haze around it cleared. The stately 15,000 foot high peak seemed huge and very far away. Once again when the sun vanished it grew much colder and we retreated to the mess tent for some hot Milo and popcorn followed by dinner. Mohamed stopped by to brief us on the next day when we’d head to Barranco camp on Shira route. We were prepared for a long day.
Shira to Barranco 8-18
We got a little earlier start, all of us slept well except for the usual midnight run to the Cho. Once again I'd paused to look up and see the stars and saw a couple of meteorites flash by. The trail was much flatter this morning; it almost seemed like one of the flat ridges in NH, we were completely above the trees. We were entering the desert zone, we still saw the dry white flowers and a few small Erica shrubs.
All morning it was a steady mild uphill walk, no ups and downs like yesterday. We could now see the great Western Breach above Arrow Glacier but Lava tower was still hidden by a ridge. The area looked like canyon country to me, similar to that of Texas or Arizona. Huge formations of lava rock spilled out the sides of the huge mountain. The scope of the mountain is hard to describe but you felt like ants, it’s much bigger than any mountain I’ve ever seen. They say McKinley is huge too but I’ve never been there.
By 11:00am we arrived at lunch stop, a big black table rock. We were there before any of the other groups and enjoyed lunch in relative quiet. Our group of five with Mohamed leading was hiking at a great pace, we left just as others were arriving. As we cleared the last ridge, Lava tower came into view. We descended and then rose to our high point of the day, 4,600 meters (15,000 feet.) We relaxed for a good hour, Anne climbed part of the way up the dome of rock just playing and feeling great.
