Trip report to Hydro-Photon, the makers of the Steripen

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Lawn Sale

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I would like to start by adding I have no affiliation whatsoever with Hydro-Photon, the makers of the Steripen. I receive no money from them nor get any favors, I am writing this solely to help those of us in the hiking community that have questions relating to the Steripen and water treatment in general on the trail.

OK, now that the disclaimer is out of the way, I’ll try and answer some questions and give some general info. I posted a little information about a year ago regarding water treatment while on the trail, and he was asking for any recent information.

I decided another visit was in order, so I jumped in the car and drove the 2 hours to the headquarters of Hydro-Photon, in Blue Hill, Maine. Once there I met with Miles, one of the lead engineers that oversees the production and testing of the Steripen. Here is what I found:

The Steripen now comes in two flavors, the standard model and the Adventurer/Traveler model, which is a lot lighter. The latter uses two CR123 batteries, which allow the total weight to be reduced to only 3.6 ounces (as measured on my scale). The same circuitry and bulb are used for both, the case is streamlined and the smaller batteries account for the weight reduction.

The resistance to shock is still the same, and they test them in a “real world” scenario. This is measured by them taking them out front of the shop and dropping and throwing them around. On the hardpack gravel driveway they can sustain a drop from about head height, but on the lawn you can “actually get some height to them”, by tossing them into the air. Needless to say, they’re pretty rugged, but if hit the right way on rock, like on the end of the bulb, it can be catastrophic even at 4 feet. UV light does not penetrate glass or plastic, so the bulb jacket is actually made out of polished quartz, which is very brittle. The rest of the unit is very sturdy and built well though.

The life of the CR123 batteries is reduced when compared to the four AA batteries of the larger unit, as would be anticipated. Tested life expectancies are from 35 to 50 liters out of a set versus over three times that for the AA’s.

To date it is not compatible with the 4 micron filter element for the regular pen that screws to the top of a Nalgene. However, they have designed one for the Adventure/Traveler model, but it’s still in the testing phase. It should be out in about 6 weeks.

There is a report out from the Army that basically doesn’t like the Steripen. I have read the document online and also seen firsthand the data they sent, on request, regarding the testing. Let’s just say it’s filled with anomalies that caused me to question their testing methods. As a result of this, Hydro-Photon had their own tests done, using an independent lab and the same criteria the USEPA Protocols require (I have the report in front of me, it hasn’t even been posted to the web, but will be soon as they just got the results this week). The testing lab is NELAC and NELAP certified, among multi-state certifications, and they have a great reputation. Basically in addition to the clean water that is recommended, they ran Challenge water through it, which was pretty nasty. It has a turbidity of 33 NTU, 12 mg/L of TOC, is at 4°C (very cold, harder to treat), and a TDS of 1430 mg/L. OK, since this means little to most of you, think weak coffee. I’ll run some softdrinks and juices through my lab and come up with a comparable equivalent to put it into perspective. Basically this is pretty nasty water, nothing you’d want to drink without filtering first. Needless to say, the efficacy of the Steripen was more than enough to satisfy the requirements of the EPA’s standards for disinfection. Rest assured, the thing works.

Mention has been made as to the Aqua-Star UV pen, and I have seen one at a local outfitter store. There are a few problems with this UV device, and I would like to add it is not made by Hydro-Photon. The first is they are being sued for patent infringement, and this is currently in the court system. The second is they do not publish any of their data for any tests done, and it cannot be acquired by request. The last and most important is their UV bulb is not jacketed, so the water is in contact with the bulb. The main problem with this is that the water can cool the bulb to the point the UV transmittance is diminished, thus reducing the effectiveness. With a jacketed bulb, the bulb always maintains a constant temperature, which is needed to produce the optimal wavelength of UV light. Personally, and this is my own opinion, I’d stay as far away from the Aqua-Star as possible.

The people at Hydro-Photon are also Mainers. What I mean by this is they take great pride in what they build, and stand behind it. They aren’t some fly-by-night company looking to maximize profits. While I was there they were testing some new batteries to include in the units as they’re looking for the best ones they can get, but they have to perform flawlessly or they won’t purchase them. The Steripen has a lifetime warranty, unless you ruin it through negligence. The bulbs can be replaced at a cost of $40, but have a 5,000 cycle lifespan, so it’s unlikely they’ll have to be replaced at any great interval. If the bulb is replaced the unit is analyzed and brought back to original specs (cleaned & tested), so it’s like getting a new unit again.

The Adventurer/Traveler (the only difference is the color, black/yellow for the Adventurer and silver/black for the Traveler) also has an optional charger/carrying case you can purchase. You can recharge the two CR123 lithium batteries (supplied with the case) by either the wall mount or by the solar charger that’s made into the outside of the hard case. Inside it’s padded and holds the pen as well. While it has a neoprene sleeve with a daisy chain that it comes with for backpacking, there have been reports of it slipping out of the neoprene sleeve. We discussed making a more backpacker friendly version, and he showed me one due out in a couple of weeks that has a belt clip and locking mechanism on it. The case is also not waterproof, which we discussed, but if the case has a seal, any water vapor on the pen when it’s stored can’t evaporate and will ruin the internal components. These guys were thinking of us when they built this thing and are receptive to suggestions on making it better. The weight of the case and batteries is 6.5 ounces, for a total weight of 10.1 ounces (as measured on my scale once again) with pen and spare batteries (two also come with the pen for a total of four if you buy both), not too shabby.

I was so impressed with the unit I bought one before I even left. I also bought the hard case/charger and will fit my own hasp/lock to it (it snaps shut currently, but is without a hasp). They are out of the Adventurer model right now and they’re backordered until May, but they’re making as many as they can without compromising quality. As such I bought a Traveler model since they had a couple left.

If anyone has any questions, I’d be more than happy to answer them, both on the Steripens and for water treatment questions in general.

I have been asked in the past, so I’ll list my credentials here. I currently work at a municipal water treatment plant (lab rat and all encompassing water dog), and used to work for an engineering company, specializing in water treatment and remediation all over the northeast. I hold the current licenses, all of which are the top licenses attainable:

Maine Class IV Water Treatment
Maine Class IV Water Distribution
Maine Grade 5 Biological Wastewater Treatment
Maine Grade 1 Physical-Chemical Wastewater Treatment
New England Grade 2 Laboratory Analyst
New England Grade 4 Collection Systems
OSHA Hazardous Waste Operations and Emergency Response 40 Hour Course
OSHA 24 Hour First Responder Course.
 
Lawn Sale,

Thanks--a nice informative review and write-up.

Lawn Sale said:
The Adventurer/Traveler also has an optional charger/carrying case you can purchase. You can recharge the two CR123 lithium batteries (supplied with the case) by either the wall mount or by the solar charger that’s made into the outside of the hard case.
I'd just like to add a few comments on CR123 batteries since many are likely to be unfamiliar with them. CR123 is a size and voltage specification* (similar diameter to AA, about 3/4 the length, 3V), just like AAA, AA, C, or D. The commonly available battery technologies seem to be lithium (primary cell, non-rechargable, disposable) and lithium-ion (secondary cell, rechargable, Lion). (Don't confuse the two--attempting to recharge a primary cell can cause it to explode...)

Lithium cells are usable to lower temps than are lithium-ion cells, but clearly the entire unit can be warmed in one's pocket so this shouldn't be a serious issue.

CR123 cells are often used in cameras, so they are likely to be available in the same places as lithium AA cells. And a search on CR123 will bring up a few zillion suppliers: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=CR123+battery&btnG=Google+Search

Doug

* one (non-official looking) source gives the spec as:
- 16mm D x 32mm L
- 3.0 V, lithium capacity ~1300 mAh, ~3.6Wh

For comparison AA is
-14mm D x 50mm L (my measurement)
- 1.5 V, lithium capacity is ~2500 mAh, ~3.8Wh
 
NiM Hydride might be better choice

Here's link to a long Wikipedia article on Li Ion batteries. Apparently LiIon are same type used in laptop computers. These are the laptop battery type Sony recently recalled. Not good to heat them. Article mentions not good idea to leave inside cars where temp might get high enouogh for them to explode. We're often leaving behind certain items in cars when going out on trail.

Spare batteries don't retain charge very well so if you're keeping spares in pack the spares lose some % of their charge every year. Charging also sounds risky. Chargers I saw for sale all caution against not watching while charging going on.

Maybe should stick with NiM hydride for rechargeability and stability.

Li Ion Wikipedia
 
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Jazzbo said:
Here's link to a long Wikipedia article on Li Ion batteries. Apparently LiIon are same type used in laptop computers. These are the laptop battery type Sony recently recalled. Not good to heat them. Article mentions not good idea to leave inside cars where temp might get high enouogh for them to explode. We're often leaving behind certain items in cars when going out on trail.
Sounds to me like you have been listening to a lot of battery doomsayers... :)

Most batteries are at risk of catastrophic failure or explosion if heated too hot. (Any sealed container which contains moisture or anything which can evaporate has such a risk.) Most sealed batteries have an intentional pressure release valve to vent excess pressure before the battery explodes. But these issues have existed ever since sealed batteries were invented.

Yes Lion batteries are used in many other places. Including laptops and cellphones. Think of how people abuse cellphones, think of how many cellphones there are (hundreds of millions to billions), and think of how many dangerous battery failures there are (a handful).

More energy per weight (and/or size) is considered desireable in a battery. (Look at the race for MaH numbers in NiMH cells. And how much hikers value the light weight of AA lithium photo cells.) The "better" the battery, the more it will be like a small stick of dynamite with terminals...

Spare batteries don't retain charge very well so if you're keeping spares in pack the spares lose some % of their charge every year.
Yes all batteries self discharge. But depending on the basic technology, details of construction, and the temperature, the discharge can be very slow. Lithium primary cells are generally rated for 10 yrs or so. Rechargables can be engineered to optimize capacity or storage time. (Optimizing for one frequently reduces the other.) There now seems to be some new lines of NiMH cells which are optimized for a long shelf life at the cost of a lower capacity.

Charging also sounds risky. Chargers I saw for sale all caution against not watching while charging going on.
What technology? How good a charger? For any given battery, one can design a charger which will cause the battery to fail catestrophically or explode by dumping too much energy into the battery in too short a time--for an extreme example, charge the battery from a lightning rod. The battery will most likely explode when lightning strikes. Use a proper charger.

I have never seen this warning for NiMH. (Nor my Lion chargers.) The better chargers monitor the battery to avoid damaging. Many of them include battery temp sensors as well as monitoring electrical parameters.

One has to be careful with Lion cells--overcharging or complete discharge will destroy them. But the proper charging systems have overcharging protection and the proper applications shut off before complete discharge. Thermal runaway is possible for the most common consumer Lion technology (cobalt cathode) if the temp rises above 150C (302F) so the cells should not be used above 130C (265F). But again, these temps are unlikely in normal use and storage. (Ref: http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-5B.htm)

IIRC, the cause of the laptop Lion battery fires was manufacturing defects--metal particles inside a cell that could short it out and cause a fire.

Maybe should stick with NiM hydride for rechargeability and stability.
Most NiMH cells self-discharge significantly faster than Lion cells. They are much heavier, and have pressure releaf valves. Excessive heat can damage (particularly during charging) them
And I'm sure you can make them explode if you try to charge them too fast. Just use the appropriate battery technology in the appropriate place.

BTW, the high currents produced if NiMH or NiCad cells are shorted have burned people and have started fires. (Also don't short the lead-lead peroxide rechargable battery in your car--it can explode, start fires, and/or vaporize metal. Furthermore, your car battery can produce hydrogen gas which can also explode...)

Wikipedia is hardly a reliable source--the first part of this article looks reasonable, but the latter part gets rather alarmist, IMO. In fact, the latter part looks like it might be a selective edit-down from the above batteryuniversity reference.

For a more professional source of info on batteries, try http://www.batteryuniversity.com/index.htm

FWIW, I often use NiMH cells in my headlamp, digital P&S camera, and GPS with lithium primary cell backups. (All of these devices take AAA or AA cells.) Sometimes I will use lithium primary cells to save weight.

My cellphone (the one that I used to call in my rescue) and DSLR both use Lion. (No choice on battery technologies for these devices.)

I simply try to respect the limitations of each technology and use each where appropriate.

Doug
 
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Lawn Sale, Thanks for all the info. I'm thinking of adding the steripen to my equipment. The ease of use and light weight is appealing.

How does the unit "know" to shut off once disinfecting is complete? I'm assuming you can use it in different size drinking containers.

Does the unit work just on the water in the drinking container? What about the water on the threads and top of the container you are treating?

Thanks for your help, Mike
 
I stand corrected by Doug

Thanks for the comments Doug.... I checked out Battery University site.... I confess to falling prey to alarmist tendencies presented in Wikipedia. I'll probably purchase an inexpensive charger and stick to namebrand LiIon battery and live to write TR's about it.
 
Jazzbo said:
Thanks for the comments Doug.... I checked out Battery University site.... I confess to falling prey to alarmist tendencies presented in Wikipedia. I'll probably purchase an inexpensive charger and stick to namebrand LiIon battery and live to write TR's about it.
Yeah, pretty much any small package containing a large amount of available energy has the potential for spectacular events...

A couple of such events and recalls have probably given Lion a bit of cause celeb status. And since anybody can contribut to Wikipedia...

Actually, a good charger might be a better buy (particularly if it includes battery temp sensors)--it may treat the batteries better and be better at protecting against damaging (and spectacular) events. And a bit of prudence might not be a bad idea--for instance put the charger on a surface (and in a place) that is tolerant of a small fire. Very unlikely to be needed, but it would be a cheap bit of piece of mind.

The best batteries have enough wires brought out so that each cell can be monitored individually (eg my laptop battery) and built-in temp sensors so the charger and applications can make sure the battery is kept within appropriate limits.

I think that modern Lion batteries are safe enough that with good quality gear and a little care, your chance of serious problems is small enough that you needn't lose sleep over the issue.

Doug
 
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MikeM said:
Lawn Sale, Thanks for all the info. I'm thinking of adding the steripen to my equipment. The ease of use and light weight is appealing.

How does the unit "know" to shut off once disinfecting is complete? I'm assuming you can use it in different size drinking containers.

Does the unit work just on the water in the drinking container? What about the water on the threads and top of the container you are treating?

Thanks for your help, Mike

The unit runs for a certain amount of time, based on the number of times the button is pressed and the water temperature measured through the unit. It delivers a pre-designated dose, which is more than what's needed, but it can't "overkill" a dose as there is no residual.

It is designed for use on 16 oz and 32 oz containers.

Yes, it just works on the water in the containers, which is why their pre-filter is so nice. Despite them not having one out for the Adventurer/Traveler yet, the standard Steripen one protects the thread area on a Nalgene so no corss-contamination can occur. It also filters down to 4 microns, which basically just takes out the heavy floatables and settleables.

If some water does get on the threads, it could be a source of contamination.
 
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