Wapack Trail End-to-End (N-S), 10/20/2007

[BIGEarl]

October 20, 2007: Wapack Trail End-to-End (N-S)

Trail: Wapack Trail

Distance – Elevation: ~22 miles, 5,175 feet (altimeter log)


The day started with a meeting at the south end of the Wapack Trail on route 119 in Ashburnham, MA to spot a vehicle. I arrived a little early at approximately 5:40am and enjoyed viewing the clearing sky conditions with stars everywhere. Soon, Trail Trotter pulled in. We loaded my things into her car and were off for the north end of the trail and a meeting with Amicus, the final member of our group for the day. A few minutes before 7:00am he pulled up and went through his final prep for the day.

Old Mountain Rd. to Route 101
At approximately 7:10am we were on the trail heading for our first summit, North Pack Monadnock. The conditions straight up were generally blue sky but at ground level we experienced a significant amount of fog. We were hoping the sun would eventually burn it off to allow us the enjoyment of the views and fall colors. The climb to the summit of N. Pack Monadnock was a steady, moderate grade that provided a good warn-up to the day. Roughly 45 minutes after starting out we were on the fog-bound summit. We stayed long enough to get a couple summit pictures and headed off for Pack Monadnock Mountain. This 2.4 mile stretch starts by descending from the summit and then passing across the col that includes a couple wet areas before climbing to the summit area of Pack Monadnock. Along the way we passed across the Joanne Bass Bross Preserve. A short time later we entered the Miller State Park and then came to the fogged-in summit. Again, more summit pictures but no views. We still had a long way to go and headed off for the Route 101 crossing. On the way between the Pack Monadnock summit and Route 101 the conditions started to clear. When we reached Route 101 we had generally clear and sunny conditions that would stay with us for most of the remainder of the hike.

Route 101 to Nashua Road
After crossing Route 101 we headed for the summit of Temple Mountain. While climbing to the ridge, Holt Peak, and Burton Peak we were treated to a number of great views and plenty of fall colors. The area was hit with a relatively strong storm on Friday night. The wind and rain brought down a great deal of leaves stripping some trees. The trail was littered with wet, slippery leaves and pine needles which made the hiking a little slower to attempt avoiding a fall, which didn’t always work out. Fortunately, there were many leaves left on the trees. On our way to Holt Peak we were treated to nice views back to Pack Monadnock, to the east, and west. After leaving the area at the top of the closed Temple Mountain Ski Area the trail enters a stand of pines that Amicus labeled the Black Forest – an interesting place. I managed to get an interesting picture of the final traces of fog leaving the area. Continuing south we came across a lesser peak where a large amount of stone work has been done, perhaps by some Boy Scouts. There are a number of stone chairs, cairns, and one lean-to. We stopped there briefly for some pictures and a snack. While there a Boy Scout group came in with several chaperones to explore the site. We headed off for Holt Peak and started to experience a series of viewpoints, some created by logging activities next to the trail. The views in this area are generally to the west including Mount Monadnock. The next key location was Burton Peak where we found another Boy Scout group. They were spread out on the ledges taking a break from their hike. After a few pictures we were back to our hike south. Soon after leaving Burton Peak we came to another ledge viewpoint were we enjoyed views of Spofford Gap, Connant Hill, and Wildcat Hill. From here it is a gradual hike down to Nashua Road which includes a short road walk on Temple Road.

Nashua Road to Route 123/124
The trail leaves Nashua Road following an old logging road. At times the marked trail moves off the road but generally follows the same course. This area is a long and gradual climb to the east side of Conant Hill. Along the way we stopped for a brief break and snack. Just as we were preparing to leave we noticed the group of Boy Scouts we first saw on Burton Peak was gaining ground on us. The hike through this area was generally dry with a relatively mild grade, nothing steep up or down. As we were getting close to Route 123/124 we passed a small ski area with a rope tow. This reminded me of the place where I learned to ski when I was young. Very soon after passing the rope tow we came to the trailhead on Route 123/124. Across the road is the Wapack Lodge site and the continuation of the trail. The Wapack Lodge was lost to a fire in 1993 and all that remains is the foundation.

Route 123/124 to Route 119
It’s mid afternoon by now and we still have over 8 miles to go. We crossed the road, passed by the Wapack Lodge site, and headed back into the woods to finish the final piece of our hike. The initial portion includes a large number of ski trails. Everything is very well marked and the Wapack is easy to follow. The ski trails seemed to continue all the way to the summit of Barrett Mountain. Here we were again treated with terrific views. From Barrett Mountain we could see south to New Ipswich Mountain, our next target. The late afternoon hiking conditions were great as we made our way over New Ipswich Mountain, across Stony Top with more great views, and on to Pratt Mountain. A short distance after clearing Pratt Mountain we came upon a nice viewpoint over Binney Pond that offered a nice view of the area around the pond plus Emerson Hill and Mount Watatic (our final target). After hiking past the Binney Pond area we reached Binney Hill Road which was the start of a road walk on it and a series of old wood roads. These roads generally led all the way to the trail split of the Midstate Trail and Wapack Trail. While hiking through this road walk some dark clouds came in and a light rain started. It didn’t become significant or last long. At the trail split we were essentially out of daylight. A decision was needed to head out or continue to the summit of Mount Watatic. Our plan was for an end-to-end hike of the Wapack which includes a trip over Watatic, and that’s the decision we took. Out came the headlights and off we went to Watatic. Trail Trotter took the lead and led us to the summit as if she had done the hike many times before. At approximately 7:00pm we were standing at the summit of Mount Watatic enjoying some long-range views of city lights. The wind had come up, the temperature started to drop and we decided to keep moving. Again, Trail Trotter at the front leading us back to the trailhead and our waiting vehicle. The hike down from the summit of Mount Watatic is generally quite steep, rough, and littered with wet leaves making for slow going. Slowly we worked our way through the upper parts of the trail and found easier hiking at lower elevations. Finally we reached the trailhead, packed our things into the truck and headed off for Greenfield, NH and the north trailhead.

We had a long day on the Wapack. I think we all really enjoyed the hike, I know I did. Thanks to Trail Trotter and Amicus for a great day in the woods.

I've posted some pictures from the day.

BIGEarl's Pictures.


Straight to the slideshow.

 

[Squashman]

I'm impressed

Doing just an out-and back from 119 to Pratt yesterday, I am inspired by your trip. Your report and pix are terrific - thanks

 

[Amicus]

This was a great hike - I'm grateful to Earl for doing all the planning in his thorough way, including laminated topos of our entire 22-mile route. TrailTrotter and BIGEarl are amiable companions for a long trek, which makes all the difference.

I'd hiked the two Pack Monadnocks from 101 before, but that didn't compare with tracing the entire, wonderfully varied ridge on such a pleasant Fall day. Such variety! From the misty Black Forest, to the most elaborate stonework I've seen on any Trail (including a living room for trolls on one knob), to two ski areas (Temple - sadly defunct - and Windblown XC, not counting that farmer's sweet rope-tow slope), to the sun-baked south-facing ledges of Spofford Gap, which felt like July in technicolor.

For hours, Mt. Watatic didn't seem to be getting any closer, but the final approach by headlamp was fortunately straightforward, and as Earl notes, TrailTrotter proved a whiz at spotting blazes in the dark. The open summit panorama, with the lights of a dozen cities and town marking the horizon in the faint light of the half-moon, left an impression that will linger.

BIGEarl did a fine job recording the hike in his pictures, so my smaller number of casual snaps are mostly superfluous, but I did a manage a good shot of the Black Forest ("Let there be light") .

 

[grouseking]

Great pics everyone....I'm jealous! Looks like an awesome trek. Though I don't think I could do 20 miles at this point. My limit seems to be about 15 or so...

grouseking

 

[Early Bird]

Fabulous! I'm glad you were able to enjoy such a great weather day. What gorgeous colors. Aren't we lucky to be out in the east? Your pictures are terrific too. Thanks for always sharing.

 

[alspal]

Great report. Sounds like a blast. Just goes to prove you don't need to go above 4,000' or above tree-line to get some great views and an awesome hike.

 

[Jazzbo]

Prime example of forest management to maintain views

I'm member of Freinds of Wapack and although I don't do much in way of trail maintenance with them, but I do get the newsletters. My most recent newsletter indicates views in Burton Peak section of the trail were recently opened up as part of timber harvest conducted by the New England Forestry Foundation on their Lincoln Davis Memorial Forest Property on Temple Mountain in Sharon. To quote the newsletter .... "The sustainable green certified timber harvest selectively cut 83 acres on the western side of Burton Peak in Sharon, re-cleared 22 acres of the former Berry Pasture commercial blueberry fields, and created views for hikers to enjoy form the top of Burton Peak. The goals of the tmber harvest were to improve the quality and productivity of the timber, create diverse wildlife habitat, and enhance views along the wapack and Berry Pasture Trails." The writer compliments the loggers for the great job they did at cleaning up slash and skidding wood uphill to avoid crossing the trail in more than one place, etc.

This is not exactly precedent setting, as the summits of the Wapack have historically served as summer pastures for grazing and some summits have historically been maintained as berry pastures. The Wapack Trail Guide describes cattle drives happening in surrounding area with farmers driving livestock from miles around to graze on the summit pastures. The summits have a heavenly quality what with the mix of grass and scrubby oak and evergreens and long range views. Must be what Mount Olympus in Greece is like.

I'm definitely planning to do some snow shoeing along the Wapack this winter (God willing we get some snow).

 

[BIGEarl]

I'm member of Freinds of Wapack and although I don't do much in way of trail maintenance with them, but I do get the newsletters. My most recent newsletter indicates views in Burton Peak section of the trail were recently opened up as part of timber harvest conducted by the New England Forestry Foundation on their Lincoln Davis Memorial Forest Property on Temple Mountain in Sharon. To quote the newsletter .... "The sustainable green certified timber harvest selectively cut 83 acres on the western side of Burton Peak in Sharon, re-cleared 22 acres of the former Berry Pasture commercial blueberry fields, and created views for hikers to enjoy form the top of Burton Peak. The goals of the tmber harvest were to improve the quality and productivity of the timber, create diverse wildlife habitat, and enhance views along the wapack and Berry Pasture Trails." The writer compliments the loggers for the great job they did at cleaning up slash and skidding wood uphill to avoid crossing the trail in more than one place, etc.

This is not exactly precedent setting, as the summits of the Wapack have historically served as summer pastures for grazing and some summits have historically been maintained as berry pastures. The Wapack Trail Guide describes cattle drives happening in surrounding area with farmers driving livestock from miles around to graze on the summit pastures. The summits have a heavenly quality what with the mix of grass and scrubby oak and evergreens and long range views. Must be what Mount Olympus in Greece is like.

I'm definitely planning to do some snow shoeing along the Wapack this winter (God willing we get some snow).

Thanks Jazzbo, we were wondering about the cutting that was done.

I’m no forestry expert and consequently I’m not sure of the difference between selective cutting and clear cutting, I have an idea. My memory could be wrong but I believe what I saw was clear-cutting. There could have been areas of selective cutting that didn’t get my attention. Perhaps the selective cutting areas were away from the trail and not visible. I assume some of the work referenced in the quoted report is what I would view as clear cutting. How clear-cutting an area helps “improve the quality and productivity of the timber” is a bit of a mystery. But, I’m no forestry expert. The work definitely opened up the views to the west with the main landmark being Mount Monadnock, and certainly the Connecticut River Valley and Vermont with clear conditions. Just after leaving the Burton Peak area I recall the three of us having a brief conversation about the clear cutting and possible reasons for it.

I’d be interested in learning about the wildlife they were hoping to attract.

 

[jjo]

Nice Tr and Pics!! I've been on that trail many times when I lived in Shrewsbury, Mass. You're right...Doesn't have to be +4000ft!! Thanks

 

[Feldmarschal]

Excellent trail report and pics.

After driving my family to the top of Pack last year, the Wapack traverse is on my to-do list. I will have to get my range up, though. My longest hike in quite a while is 11.5 miles.

 

[brianW]

Nice pics, I enjoyed seeing one of my favorite hiking areas from back home.