Washington on 1/16/08, More Adventure Than We Wanted

[Double Bow]

On Wednesday I met up w/Larry and Bill at Mansfield Station to attempt Washington & Monroe via the Ammo. Having done these peaks this way three times before (once in winter), I was expecting things to be pretty straight-forward and for the only that we'd have to worry about would be the wind strength up high. The forecast looked good and we were all in good spirits so it seemed as though we were well positioned for a good day up there.

Though the clip on my crampons (BD Contact Straps) had broken for the second time coming off of Cannon last week, I "fixed" them using the piece of hanger wire Rols had given me when the clip broke the first time (3/06). I put them on my pack, donned my snowshoes and we were off. We made it to Gem Pool in pretty good time. Higher up, once everything turned to boiler plate ice, we switched to crampons. Everything went smoothly up to the hut. The first bit of foreboding came when they told me they thought we should hit Washington first "just in case". I had no problem with this as I was sure we'd be able to do both peaks and that I would even if one of them had a change of heart post-Washington.

We took a short break at the hut to adjust layers and have some water. We started out again but shortly after passing the Camel Trail, the wire repair on my crampons broke. I continued along a little more slowly trying to walk on that heel as the toe portion flopped around. Larry was going slower as his heart was racing and his stomach was churning.

We made it up to the summit and were very happy. We took summit pics and then ducked inside the sheltered entranceway. I took of my crampons and repaired them again with a cable tie. We had lunch and chatted w/an EMS group that had come up Lion Head and reported that the ravines are still "in".

After lunch, we started off again and about halfway back to the hut, the cabl tie broke. Pissed off, I switched to STABILicers. They proved to be of little use on the hard ice coated with a dusting of snow. The rest of the way back to the hut was slow and trecherous. At the hut, we made the decision to call it a day and not hit Monroe. I was disappointed, but with LArry not feeling his finest and my equipment issues, I was content to be happy with having gotten Washington. I switched back to my crampons and tried to tie the broken one tight enough that the heel part would stay under my heel. That lasted all of about 100'. The damn thing kept coming up and just being wrapped around my ankle. I took it off and put on a snowshoe. Now I looked like the biggest idiot in the world with one snowshoe and one crampon on.

I tried to avoid the ice as much as I could staying close to the trees and at times in the brush. This worked fairly well until we got to a large ice flow that we had to cross. Bill was leading the way and dispite having crapons on, he took a bad spill, slid, and rolled for a ways before finally coming to a stop. When Larry asked is he was OK, Bill responded "No." Larry carefully made his way down toward Bill as I attemped to cross this thing, pounding my snowshoes (which have rounded crampons) and my one good crampon as I went. Halfway across, I took a spill and slid until I had a patch of brush in the middle. Uninjured, I got back up and contined until I got to a point when I was almost across wher I couldn't get me snowshoed foot to grip. Larry came back up and helped me out and then lent me his snowshoes which had better crampons.

From that point on, we made our way carefully over the rest of the ice and then out. We were fairly sure that Bill dislocated his shoulder and once back at the cars he drove to Littleton Hospital. It was a rough and exciting day but it was far more adventure than we had wanted!

Here are pics!

 

[Pamola]

What? No one snowshoe/one crampon pics? Your link's broken, btw.

Eventful day. Glad everyone made it out semi-unscathed.

 

[spencer]

did you find my helmet by any chance?

Glad you guys made it out okay!

Here is what it looked like on Sunday

Spencer

 

[Double Bow]

Sorry Spencer. Didn't see it. If it was up ther, the EMS guys prolly took it!

BTW, thanks Pamola. I fixed the link. Double click the photo and enjoy!

 

[RoySwkr]

the wire repair on my crampons broke. I continued along a little more slowly trying to walk on that heel as the toe portion flopped around.

Fortunately (as when I broke a crampon on Washington) you were on easy terrain and the weather was good enough for you to fool with it. I think some of the single-point-of-failure crampons being worn these days are inherently risky even on trails and I can't imagine ice climbing in them.

We were fairly sure that Bill dislocated his shoulder and once back at the cars he drove to Littleton Hospital.

So how did that come out?

 

[DougPaul]

Fortunately (as when I broke a crampon on Washington) you were on easy terrain and the weather was good enough for you to fool with it. I think some of the single-point-of-failure crampons being worn these days are inherently risky even on trails and I can't imagine ice climbing in them.

Some people carry spare parts... The length-adjustment bars are a weak point with many models of adjustable crampons. When I used to ice climb, I carried spare screws and rings for my rigids. (And the allen wrench required to install the screws.)

Doug

 

[Double Bow]

So how did that come out?

He had a simple dislocation. He reported that once they popped in back into place, the pain went away. Now he has to wear a sling for the next two weeks while the ligaments heal.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

Be sure he does. I dislocated mine once at a bike race, popped it back in myself, finished the race, never got a sling, BUT it has never been 100% since

Tim

 

[TomD]

Be sure he does. I dislocated mine once at a bike race, popped it back in myself, finished the race, never got a sling, BUT it has never been 100% since

Tim

I dislocated mine years ago-fell in a parking lot. A doctor a friend of mine knew set it for me (long story I will skip), but my advice is keep it in the sling and don't do any other foolish things to aggravate it. I know this from personal experience.

Once it heals up, moderate exercise to build up the muscle is important. Mine hurt on and off for years, but working out really helped. Good as new? Not exactly, but reasonably close.

 

[RoySwkr]

When I used to ice climb, I carried spare screws and rings for my rigids.

Good idea, maybe also spare straps and wire/cable ties. But this still assumes that the break will occur at a convenient place in good weather. What scares me is the models with a single bar connecting front & back, if that breaks you may walk right out of it in a tricky spot and while hopefully you can jury-rig a way to get home even a welding shop may be unable to do a safe repair.

I'm glad to hear Bill will be OK, but I understand that repeat dislocations are common.

 

[carole]

But this still assumes that the break will occur at a convenient place in good weather. What scares me is the models with a single bar connecting front & back, if that breaks you may walk right out of it in a tricky spot and while hopefully you can jury-rig a way to get home even a welding shop may be unable to do a safe repair.

Yep, single bar on my husband’s Grivel (not in flex position) broke as we were on the ‘ledges’ of Whiteface. Fortunately, he fixed it with a ring from his key ring, which shortened it but was still usable on my smaller foot, so we switched crampons and continued on. (An example of why I named him ‘Fiddlehead’.) I used it that way for several more trips until I got replacement bars (EMS gave them to me free).

 

[DougPaul]

Good idea, maybe also spare straps and wire/cable ties.

It is also worth having a few spare sheet metal triglide buckles to go with the straps. Similar to http://www.rei.com/product/612229, except 1/2 inch (or whatever fits your straps) and flat sheet metal.

What scares me is the models with a single bar connecting front & back, if that breaks you may walk right out of it in a tricky spot and while hopefully you can jury-rig a way to get home even a welding shop may be unable to do a safe repair.

You cover what you can--you can only cover everything by bringing spare sets of crampons. Or carry a set of insteps/stabilicers/micro-spikes--partial redundancy with usefulness on their own.

Doug

 

[RoySwkr]

You cover what you can--you can only cover everything by bringing spare sets of crampons.

Or try to bring crampons with fewer single failure points. Just as all cars sold in this country now have dual braking systems, someday you won't be able to buy crampons with only a single bar between front & back - if users don't insist, the lawyers will.

 

[cbcbd]

someday you won't be able to buy crampons with only a single bar between front & back - if users don't insist, the lawyers will.

I've seen many ice climbers using single bar (semi-rigid) crampons. Bails and straps... those are things that I have seen fail from regular use. The single bar not so much - using a flexible soled boot with semi-rigid crampons is also not a good idea and could overly stress the bars. Some crampons have more flex and are made to last longer with flexible boots.

If you think the bar might break you can always take an extra one (bar) or try to hike in these:

 

[DougPaul]

If you think the bar might break you can always take an extra one (bar) or try to hike in these:

I've done lots of hiking in rigid crampons. But then I have rigid boots to go along with them...

(The other) Doug

(PS--don't try to use rigid crampons on flexible boots. You are likely to fatigue the metal and break the crampons.)