hikersinger
Member
Day 1 - December 26, 2015
- Abol Bridge winter parking lot to Roaring Brook (~13 miles, via trail, Tote Road, and Roaring Brook Road)
Day 2
- Chimney Pond Trail to Chimney Pond (3.3 miles)
- Saddle Trail to Baxter Peak, 5270' (2.2 miles)
- Saddle Trail in reverse, to NW Basin Trail and bushwhack short-cut to Hamlin summit, 4756' (~2 miles)
- Hamlin Ridge Trail to Chimney Pond Trail, back to bunkhouse (~1.9 miles)
Day 3
- rest day at Chimney Pond bunkhouse during snow storm
Day 4
- Chimney Pond Trail to Roaring Brook Road, back to Abol Bridge lot (16.2 miles)
---
Photo Album: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152805089449567&type=1&l=b7707c0c59
---
For a few years, I'd been offered the opportunity to join an annual Winter trek into Baxter State Park (BSP) in Maine, and be part of one of the first groups to enter the park in calendar Winter. Michael Blair, a friend and certified hike leader with the AMC and co-leader of the popular Random Group of Hikers, had been leading annual early Winter expeditions into the park to hike the several higher-elevation peaks there, including the famed Baxter Peak, the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. This year I felt a real, serious urge to seize the opportunity.
I had hiked in BSP just once, several years back in late September, and absolutely loved it. We stayed in nearby Millinocket at the AT Lodge and drove far into the park for a relatively simple day hike: up the Helon Taylor trail over Pamola and the Knife Edge to the Baxter Peak summit, then down the Cathedral Trail. But from what I heard, most any hiking trip into the park in Winter would be much more involved, requiring permits and multi-day plans due to seasonal park road closures, the technical aspects of the mountain, and the unpredictable winter conditions. Sounds good, right? So, with the love and support of my family, I signed up.
The plan was to hike about 13 miles to the bunkhouse at the Roaring Brook campground, stay overnight, then hike 3.3 miles up to the base of Katahdin -- the name for the group of peaks encompassing Baxter, Hamlin, and Pamola peaks, and the Knife Edge -- to make the bunkhouse at Chimney Pond our base camp for the next three days. We'd then hike back to Roaring Brook on the third day, and hike out of the park the final day.
The sheer distance needed to hike in, combined with the unknown conditions on the ground and the weather, required that the trip be planned for at least five days if we were to have a reasonable set of options to achieve success. Even with this sort of planning, in years past the expedition had only mixed success due to these various factors (extreme snow accumulation mostly). This year, the primary goal was to summit Baxter and Hamlin peaks, the two Katahdin peaks on the New England 100 Highest list, with secondary hopes to hike the Knife Edge. Since we weren't sure of conditions (we'd likely enter the park before the rangers would) we planned time for various options, such as to break a trail most of the way one day, so we could summit the next day in reasonable time. A single-day hike to bag all three peaks and the Knife Edge would likely be prohibitive for a group our size, given normal winter conditions.
---
We met in Millinocket, the closest town to BSP, the day after Christmas. We stayed at the Pamola Motor Lodge, which offered very basic accommodations in relatively clean, if dated, rooms. Uncharacteristic of the season, there was no snow on the ground when I arrived late that afternoon. It had been a very warm late Fall and Winter so far, but we were still hopeful we'd be able to use our sleds to ferry our heavy, multi-day packs the 13 miles to the first cabin. Some snow was forecast, but the park roads weren't holding on to much snow from a recent snowfall. (The couple days before Christmas saw temps in the 50s and near 60!)
The six of us -- Michael and his wife Monica, Colin, Kyle, Liz, and myself -- reviewed plans and gear and settled in for the night. The next morning, we woke to a few inches of snow on the ground. This was very exciting as it hardly seemed like Winter to this point, and we'd almost certainly be able to use our sleds!
We had intended to have breakfast at the AT Cafe, but found it was closed for the season. (I knew the AT Lodge was as well, but wasn't sure about the Cafe - both are owned by the same couple.) We found another place in town, Ruthie's, which was quite good and made a great start to the day. Satiated with the last "good meal" we'd have for the next few days, we drove 20 miles into the park to the Abol Bridge parking lot, the main winter trailhead.
Knowing we'd have a long road walk ahead of us that would cover 1,400' of vertical elevation, most of us came equipped with expedition-style sleds to carry all or some of our pack weight. I put one together in the pulk sled style, suggested by Michael, using a $35 expedition sled purchased at a local hardware store, some rope, two 6-foot pipes to increase control and prevent bumping up against my boots, and carabiners and a belt to anchor to my waist. It turned out really well, and worked just as I had hoped.
Not long in, we encountered a flooded section of the trail; not surprising given the recent warm weather, and several inches of snow before that. We had to carefully step through several inches of water, but thankfully the sleds successfully floated our gear on the water. My boots managed to keep the water at bay, thankfully -- score one for the North Face! Tip for those in this predicament: find or place a branch or fallen tree to step on if you can; every little bit helps. I was also able to hug the side of the trail along small tree trunks while "monkeying" from tree to tree, to avoid having to step right in the middle (deepest part) of the trail.
The winter route into the park brought us along a relatively flat trail by Abol Beach, a nice picnic area with two pavilions and an outhouse, and soon to the Park Tote Road. Closed to car traffic in Winter, this road runs around much of the perimeter of the park and is a popular route for snowmobilers and cross-country skiers. In a few more miles we reached the Togue Pond Gate entrance, and turned sharp left onto Roaring Brook Road, the main road used in the warmer months to access the southern side of the mountain (this is the same road I traveled several years earlier, in September).
We knew a road walk of this length would be trying and it was, on a few levels. While it didn't climb any particularly steep pitches, save one or two short ones, the near constant slight incline got to be very tiring, physically and psychologically. The belt and sled gave my back a rest, but my waist and especially my hip flexors were feeling real stress near the end (they still do a little, even a week later). It took some real effort to avoid the jarring motion against my waist as I would take steps, and I often found it helpful to take the ropes by my hands and employ an isometric hold on them to give my waist a break. And, while the environment was peaceful and pretty, rounding bend after bend and not really knowing how much longer we'd get there got to be draining on the soul.
Dusk and dark slowly crept in, and contributed to a growing sense of exhaustion; the few of us at the lead forewent our headlamps until the very end, hoping that would somehow hasten our arrival. Hiking in near-dark conditions on snow, with such stress on the body from miles and miles of road hiking, made the mind start to go a little mad! I did feel a couple faint pains in my chest after particularly tiring stretches near the end, which didn't help; I rested for a few minutes each time and they subsided. It's interesting how the body and mind can work against each other during an effort like this. I did bring along tunes, which helped calm and occupy the mind at the same time.
Finally reaching the Roaring Brook Campground parking lot in near-complete dark, we donned our headlamps to get a better sense for direction toward the bunkhouse. There was not a soul to be seen, and no lights, as we were the first to reach this point since the start of Winter proper. We soon found the bunkhouse and dropped our gear there. It was ultra cool to walk into a place so utterly desolate and quiet, when it usually sees so many people during the warmer months.
I retrieved a day's worth of wood using my sled from a nearby wood shed, and we got the wood stove started. We soon had ourselves a cozy, warm environment, had warm meals and settled in for the night in comfortable, dry clothes. The Roaring Brook bunkhouse was the smaller of the two we'd be staying in, but was roomy enough to hang our wet gear, cook/eat, and stretch out. It has two bunk rooms, each with two sets of three bunks that span floor to ceiling.
It can be a little challenging to maintain a consistently warm environment with the woodstove, but we managed well. We expected the overnight would grow cooler as the night went on, but the stove kept the place surprisingly warm enough. I started the night in the top bunk in one of the rooms, but it proved to be way too warm (heat rises!) and I soon moved to the bottom, where I was much more comfortable.
- Abol Bridge winter parking lot to Roaring Brook (~13 miles, via trail, Tote Road, and Roaring Brook Road)
Day 2
- Chimney Pond Trail to Chimney Pond (3.3 miles)
- Saddle Trail to Baxter Peak, 5270' (2.2 miles)
- Saddle Trail in reverse, to NW Basin Trail and bushwhack short-cut to Hamlin summit, 4756' (~2 miles)
- Hamlin Ridge Trail to Chimney Pond Trail, back to bunkhouse (~1.9 miles)
Day 3
- rest day at Chimney Pond bunkhouse during snow storm
Day 4
- Chimney Pond Trail to Roaring Brook Road, back to Abol Bridge lot (16.2 miles)
---
Photo Album: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152805089449567&type=1&l=b7707c0c59
---
For a few years, I'd been offered the opportunity to join an annual Winter trek into Baxter State Park (BSP) in Maine, and be part of one of the first groups to enter the park in calendar Winter. Michael Blair, a friend and certified hike leader with the AMC and co-leader of the popular Random Group of Hikers, had been leading annual early Winter expeditions into the park to hike the several higher-elevation peaks there, including the famed Baxter Peak, the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. This year I felt a real, serious urge to seize the opportunity.
I had hiked in BSP just once, several years back in late September, and absolutely loved it. We stayed in nearby Millinocket at the AT Lodge and drove far into the park for a relatively simple day hike: up the Helon Taylor trail over Pamola and the Knife Edge to the Baxter Peak summit, then down the Cathedral Trail. But from what I heard, most any hiking trip into the park in Winter would be much more involved, requiring permits and multi-day plans due to seasonal park road closures, the technical aspects of the mountain, and the unpredictable winter conditions. Sounds good, right? So, with the love and support of my family, I signed up.
The plan was to hike about 13 miles to the bunkhouse at the Roaring Brook campground, stay overnight, then hike 3.3 miles up to the base of Katahdin -- the name for the group of peaks encompassing Baxter, Hamlin, and Pamola peaks, and the Knife Edge -- to make the bunkhouse at Chimney Pond our base camp for the next three days. We'd then hike back to Roaring Brook on the third day, and hike out of the park the final day.
The sheer distance needed to hike in, combined with the unknown conditions on the ground and the weather, required that the trip be planned for at least five days if we were to have a reasonable set of options to achieve success. Even with this sort of planning, in years past the expedition had only mixed success due to these various factors (extreme snow accumulation mostly). This year, the primary goal was to summit Baxter and Hamlin peaks, the two Katahdin peaks on the New England 100 Highest list, with secondary hopes to hike the Knife Edge. Since we weren't sure of conditions (we'd likely enter the park before the rangers would) we planned time for various options, such as to break a trail most of the way one day, so we could summit the next day in reasonable time. A single-day hike to bag all three peaks and the Knife Edge would likely be prohibitive for a group our size, given normal winter conditions.
---
We met in Millinocket, the closest town to BSP, the day after Christmas. We stayed at the Pamola Motor Lodge, which offered very basic accommodations in relatively clean, if dated, rooms. Uncharacteristic of the season, there was no snow on the ground when I arrived late that afternoon. It had been a very warm late Fall and Winter so far, but we were still hopeful we'd be able to use our sleds to ferry our heavy, multi-day packs the 13 miles to the first cabin. Some snow was forecast, but the park roads weren't holding on to much snow from a recent snowfall. (The couple days before Christmas saw temps in the 50s and near 60!)
The six of us -- Michael and his wife Monica, Colin, Kyle, Liz, and myself -- reviewed plans and gear and settled in for the night. The next morning, we woke to a few inches of snow on the ground. This was very exciting as it hardly seemed like Winter to this point, and we'd almost certainly be able to use our sleds!
We had intended to have breakfast at the AT Cafe, but found it was closed for the season. (I knew the AT Lodge was as well, but wasn't sure about the Cafe - both are owned by the same couple.) We found another place in town, Ruthie's, which was quite good and made a great start to the day. Satiated with the last "good meal" we'd have for the next few days, we drove 20 miles into the park to the Abol Bridge parking lot, the main winter trailhead.
Knowing we'd have a long road walk ahead of us that would cover 1,400' of vertical elevation, most of us came equipped with expedition-style sleds to carry all or some of our pack weight. I put one together in the pulk sled style, suggested by Michael, using a $35 expedition sled purchased at a local hardware store, some rope, two 6-foot pipes to increase control and prevent bumping up against my boots, and carabiners and a belt to anchor to my waist. It turned out really well, and worked just as I had hoped.
Not long in, we encountered a flooded section of the trail; not surprising given the recent warm weather, and several inches of snow before that. We had to carefully step through several inches of water, but thankfully the sleds successfully floated our gear on the water. My boots managed to keep the water at bay, thankfully -- score one for the North Face! Tip for those in this predicament: find or place a branch or fallen tree to step on if you can; every little bit helps. I was also able to hug the side of the trail along small tree trunks while "monkeying" from tree to tree, to avoid having to step right in the middle (deepest part) of the trail.
The winter route into the park brought us along a relatively flat trail by Abol Beach, a nice picnic area with two pavilions and an outhouse, and soon to the Park Tote Road. Closed to car traffic in Winter, this road runs around much of the perimeter of the park and is a popular route for snowmobilers and cross-country skiers. In a few more miles we reached the Togue Pond Gate entrance, and turned sharp left onto Roaring Brook Road, the main road used in the warmer months to access the southern side of the mountain (this is the same road I traveled several years earlier, in September).
We knew a road walk of this length would be trying and it was, on a few levels. While it didn't climb any particularly steep pitches, save one or two short ones, the near constant slight incline got to be very tiring, physically and psychologically. The belt and sled gave my back a rest, but my waist and especially my hip flexors were feeling real stress near the end (they still do a little, even a week later). It took some real effort to avoid the jarring motion against my waist as I would take steps, and I often found it helpful to take the ropes by my hands and employ an isometric hold on them to give my waist a break. And, while the environment was peaceful and pretty, rounding bend after bend and not really knowing how much longer we'd get there got to be draining on the soul.
Dusk and dark slowly crept in, and contributed to a growing sense of exhaustion; the few of us at the lead forewent our headlamps until the very end, hoping that would somehow hasten our arrival. Hiking in near-dark conditions on snow, with such stress on the body from miles and miles of road hiking, made the mind start to go a little mad! I did feel a couple faint pains in my chest after particularly tiring stretches near the end, which didn't help; I rested for a few minutes each time and they subsided. It's interesting how the body and mind can work against each other during an effort like this. I did bring along tunes, which helped calm and occupy the mind at the same time.
Finally reaching the Roaring Brook Campground parking lot in near-complete dark, we donned our headlamps to get a better sense for direction toward the bunkhouse. There was not a soul to be seen, and no lights, as we were the first to reach this point since the start of Winter proper. We soon found the bunkhouse and dropped our gear there. It was ultra cool to walk into a place so utterly desolate and quiet, when it usually sees so many people during the warmer months.
I retrieved a day's worth of wood using my sled from a nearby wood shed, and we got the wood stove started. We soon had ourselves a cozy, warm environment, had warm meals and settled in for the night in comfortable, dry clothes. The Roaring Brook bunkhouse was the smaller of the two we'd be staying in, but was roomy enough to hang our wet gear, cook/eat, and stretch out. It has two bunk rooms, each with two sets of three bunks that span floor to ceiling.
It can be a little challenging to maintain a consistently warm environment with the woodstove, but we managed well. We expected the overnight would grow cooler as the night went on, but the stove kept the place surprisingly warm enough. I started the night in the top bunk in one of the rooms, but it proved to be way too warm (heat rises!) and I soon moved to the bottom, where I was much more comfortable.
Last edited:
