We've just returned from our Wyoming adventure. The trip was really fantastic, even though there were times in both national parks (and short stretches in the Winds) where I flat out wanted to stop recycling, blow up the National Park Headquarters, and burn both parks to the ground. And I'm a pretty mild mannered guy, believe me.
The summaries
5 days in Yellowstone: We mostly stayed in the front country because my boys wanted to see the geothermal features. In general it was a zoo and I couldn't wait to get the heck out of there. The geysers and hot springs really are amazing natural features. But the difficulty of parking and generally inconsiderate and stressed out mobs of tourists (us included) took away a lot of the enjoyment. It was definitely amazing and beautiful, but it felt like Boston. The things we liked the most: 1) Hike to Observation Point (Washburn was closed for some reason - we wanted to hike it, but trailhead was closed. Observation point was similar elevation and effort and just down the street). People hiking were nice. I think the 11 mile round trip route at elevation weeds out a lot of others, and the scenery was gorgeous. 2) Soaking in boiling river near Mammoth. It was a total mob scene, but we arrived right as a huge storm was passing through (air temp literally dropped 20 degrees in 10 minutes; wind, lightning, etc.) and managed to find a parking spot. It was a unique experience. 3) River swimming near Madison campground. There's a river that passed right by the campground (Gibbon river) - we spent both of our afternoons at that campsite by the river watching elk graze nearby while floating down the river. It was magical and actually not mobbed at all. There was also a swimming area called Firehole Canyon. We went one early morning, before it got truly mobbed, and that was fun. But that spot is like Diana's Bath. 4) Lamar valley. Huge numbers of bison. Really cool. Other notes: Old Faithful area was cool but we had to cut it short because my son tripped on the boardwalk and drove about 100 splinters (not an exaggeration) into his hand, requiring a trip to urgent care. That whole area was absolutely mobbed. Think Foxboro on game day. Same with Norris Geyser basin, Mammoth, and Grand Prismatic. Cool features, but wow. It was stressful. Also, at both campgrounds we stayed at (Canyon and Madison) we experienced large RV generators starting up most mornings at 8:00 a.m. I'm talking about the 5000 watt gas powered ones you might use if you get snowed in for a few days. Unbelievably loud. Really ruined the morning cup of coffee. If we ever go back (unlikely), it'll be either dead of winter or May.
Wind River Range: Just the antidote to Yellowstone we needed. We did a 2-night backpack, base camping at Hobbs Lake and day-hiking into Seneca Lake for Day 2. I'd like to get out to Titcomb, but my kids need to get a little bit older. It is gorgeous. People were unbelievably nice. I actually wanted to see people on the trail, just to chat. We all seemed to be there for the same reason. We swam in Hobbs. Mosquitoes were awful. Next time I'd pay to have my clothes treated with Permethrin, or go a little later in the season, when cooler temps would likely freeze out the *******s (i.e. late August or September). We had one night of ~freezing temps, and the skeeters were much more manageable the next day. Pinedale was a lovely town. Nice people. We stayed at the Log Cabin Motel, which I HIGHLY recommend. Next time we'll also bring a fly fishing pole. I expect we'll be back to the Winds. It's stunning and gigantic. Opportunities seem endless.
Grand Teton National Park: Pretty much the only thing we did was our 5-day traverse of the Teton Crest Trail, so I can't comment much on the front country. WOW the Teton Crest Trail was amazing!!!! I got permits right when they went on sale 6 months earlier. Otherwise it is pretty hard to get the best back country sites. We went up the tram and stayed in Granite Canyon (kinda boring but amazing wildflowers; bad mosquitoes) then across Death Canyon Shelf to Alaska Basin (fabulous, swam in one of the lakes), then S Cascade Canyon (otherworldly views of the Tetons as you come over Hurricane pass), and then Holly Lake (we swam in Lake Solitude in passing - BEAUTIFUL lake with cold, clear water, but definitely not solitude; still loved it). We swam in Holly Lake too and liked that spot, but it was VERY windy. We hiked over Paintbrush Divide, which I'd rate as nontrivial with a heavy pack and a 7- and 9-year old. Also, the snow fields would have been quite challenging even two weeks earlier. On our way out, we stopped to take a dip in String Lake, and after walking along the lake for 20 minutes with packs at the end of a long day, once we finally found an open spot on the shore, we were told that the spot we were putting our packs down in was reserved for another group that had gone to their cars to get their inner tubes and other floaties. Good lord. Jackson was extremely expensive and mobbed. Fortunately we were only there on either end of the backpack, so 'civilization' felt ok. I think we'll be back in a few years, perhaps to start with Middle Teton.
I'm really proud of my boys (and wife) who managed repeated long days up to 10 miles with 2-3k' elevation gains at ~10k' elevation carrying their fair share of weight in packs. The logistics of backpacking with relatively young boys was no joke, but I'll never forget the experience with them, and I doubt they will either.
Please feel free to ping me if you want any more details.