Darl58
Active member
After spending 8 days in Chamonix and our attempt on Mont Blanc I still had 2 weeks left of my vacation in the Alps. I figured it would be hard to beat our climb up the Mer De Glace to Mont Blanc but it was just an amazing continuation of my adventure in the Alps.
Arm dropped me off at the Mont Blanc Train station and off I went to Zermatt. I had plans of attempting to climb the Matterhorn 4478m and was anxious to see it. From the moment you step off your Swiss-red train, and catch sight of the cobbled streets and horses with sleighs patiently waiting for their rides, you know you are in a special place. The air is fresh and alpine. But more than this, you immediately feel a part of the village. It draws you in. Zermatt is no auto through-route. The train stops here. All journeys on from here are on foot or ski. Everyone is here because they love mountains. Walking through the cobbled paths of town, between the ancient sunburnt barns and chalets, you catch your first glimpse of the Matterhorn and know you have come to the right place.
I had been talking to my Swiss guide that was to take me up the Matterhorn and it was still too icy/snowy so we were waiting and watching the weather.. No problem for the climb but descent would be too dangerous with the ice. I had been hiking all around a week( different TR) and couldn’t stand it anymore so decided to hike up to the Hornli hutte the next day and see this monster up close.
The trail leading up was still snow and ice covered and lots of people were turning back that were uncomfortable with the steepness on ice. It got better in a couple days and the hut crew went out and shoveled a couple places to make it a safer approach.
After arriving at the Hornli Hutte, I was mesmerized by the Matterhorn so close, I had to go up higher and climb on it a little ways…I was excited now, seeing it far away it’s scary and intimidating but up close I could see the sections that I had read about and felt better about my pending climb. After playing around for a while on the climb I started the long hike back down to Zermatt. After stopping at the Schwarzsee for a sandwich and beer decided on a longer route back to town.
Back at my Hotel and another call to my guide…..Anjan said that the Hut master thought it was worth a try and did I want to go the next day….I was so ready!! My guide had twisted his knee and would find me a substitute guide that he knew and would take care of me, his name was Johann..
The description of the Hornli Ridge is a scramble of enormous dimensions. The lower half lacks technical interest but is tilted at an exposed angle and follows an intricate line, making several short loops out on to the E face left of the ridge. Route finding can be a nightmare. Normal start time is 4:00AM, you climb the 1st third in darkness by headlamp.
There are a few bolts where you can wrap your rope around between the guide and client but very few places for placing any protection and the time to do it. A few fixed ropes help in steep areas.
The first ascent of the Matterhorn was on July 14, 1865 a team of seven that summitted but a fatal slip descending took four of them 1000 metre plunge down the north face to their deaths. There is a piece of the original rope and some shoes, water flask and gear that was recovered form this accident in the museum. It was Mountaineering’s first major public tragedy.
Packed my gear in my pack and prepared for the Matterhorn, back up the trail I go to the Hornli Hutte and my guide would meet me there later in the day. Johann arrived later in the day and we went over my gear and decided that we’d leave at 4:00AM for the summit. It was still iffy but worth trying at least since the weather was looking good. Dinner and off to the bunks, no sleep at all, I did close my eyes and try. The other 2 groups were leaving at 3:30 so we shouldn’t have a backup at the start. Breakfast of bread & jam with luke warm coffee and off we went. The start is pretty easy going and it’s just the route finding that makes it difficult but I had gone up earlier and checked it out..
We were moving at a steady pace short roped and I was feeling tired but excited too. Finally to be on the Matterhorn!!! We caught up to both groups ahead of us, so we were doing pretty well, then we had to wait for one of the groups was unguided and were way off course…they were dropping boulders and dirt down on us and we had to hug a wall until my guide could direct them down to a safer chute. Early season like now is tougher because there are no tracks and the dirt and rocks aren’t packed down yet from other climbers. So it’s a lot of loose rubble dropping constantly on you and around you. Every step was sending piles of rock and debris down the face.
We had to cross a couple snow/ ice fields on some pretty steep areas but the snow was soft enough so we could kick step our way across. I can honestly say that the whole climb that I did is definitely a “no fall” zone! Very few places where Johann could place the rope around rock, or in cracks between us for any kind of protection. A few bolts(3) were on real sketchy areas, they were just tall bolts so he could wrap the rope around between us.
As the sun rose we finally stopped for a water snack break….I was tired but still doing okay. Pierre’s group was staying near us and Johann was helping direct them on the route. At the lower Mosley slabs Johann stated that he didn’t think we’d make it up and down in time before the afternoon storm hit. The last few days at 3:30 a nasty thunder lightning storm brewed up and that’s not what you wanted while on the climb. (It’s similar to Mt Washington in the storms surround it).
So close...that's the summit up above me..
He felt bad but we knew going into this climb that it was sketchy still and more time consuming than later on in the season. I was disappointed but okay with my guides decision, I was paying him to get me down safely! We climbed up to around the Solvay Hut 4003m and headed down…
The down climb was scary crap! You had to face out and drop down on small loose footholds. Every time I looked at the choices, right left or straight down..Yohann would say down. I told him that I should just assume that I should take the worst looking way every time and that would be right…he chuckled! He also laughed a few times when my short legs wouldn’t make the steps down…a couple more stuck boot spots and he
was having way too much fun at my expense..
This picture shows you go up and over all those rocks..balance Johann kept saying to me...
Finally we were down and I was thankful for having the opportunity to attempt such a climb but still wishing I was up there going for it!! Next time earlier start and a little later season and I know I can make this climb! The guides have to get you down safely without taking chances…I understand that, but I think we could have made it. Of course that was the one day that no storm came in…damn!!! The other teams also turned around, so at least it wasn’t just me…
At the Hornli hutte, the hut master offered me a ride down to Zermatt in the supply helicopter as he was going down himself and there was room if I would like. Sweet! I got a free helicopter ride over Zermatt and the peaks! Not a bad way to finish my climb.
After arriving in Zermatt I decided to visit the Matterhorn Museum and graveyard to pay my respects to the ones who had not made it down safely…..
I will definitely return and hopefully with what I know now, will summit and get to enjoy the views form the top!!
Will post a short Tr with other hikes in Zermatt & area
Link to complete Matterhorn pics:
http://picasaweb.google.com/hikerdd13/ZermattSwitzerlandMatterhornClimb?feat=directlink
Arm dropped me off at the Mont Blanc Train station and off I went to Zermatt. I had plans of attempting to climb the Matterhorn 4478m and was anxious to see it. From the moment you step off your Swiss-red train, and catch sight of the cobbled streets and horses with sleighs patiently waiting for their rides, you know you are in a special place. The air is fresh and alpine. But more than this, you immediately feel a part of the village. It draws you in. Zermatt is no auto through-route. The train stops here. All journeys on from here are on foot or ski. Everyone is here because they love mountains. Walking through the cobbled paths of town, between the ancient sunburnt barns and chalets, you catch your first glimpse of the Matterhorn and know you have come to the right place.
I had been talking to my Swiss guide that was to take me up the Matterhorn and it was still too icy/snowy so we were waiting and watching the weather.. No problem for the climb but descent would be too dangerous with the ice. I had been hiking all around a week( different TR) and couldn’t stand it anymore so decided to hike up to the Hornli hutte the next day and see this monster up close.
The trail leading up was still snow and ice covered and lots of people were turning back that were uncomfortable with the steepness on ice. It got better in a couple days and the hut crew went out and shoveled a couple places to make it a safer approach.
After arriving at the Hornli Hutte, I was mesmerized by the Matterhorn so close, I had to go up higher and climb on it a little ways…I was excited now, seeing it far away it’s scary and intimidating but up close I could see the sections that I had read about and felt better about my pending climb. After playing around for a while on the climb I started the long hike back down to Zermatt. After stopping at the Schwarzsee for a sandwich and beer decided on a longer route back to town.
Back at my Hotel and another call to my guide…..Anjan said that the Hut master thought it was worth a try and did I want to go the next day….I was so ready!! My guide had twisted his knee and would find me a substitute guide that he knew and would take care of me, his name was Johann..
The description of the Hornli Ridge is a scramble of enormous dimensions. The lower half lacks technical interest but is tilted at an exposed angle and follows an intricate line, making several short loops out on to the E face left of the ridge. Route finding can be a nightmare. Normal start time is 4:00AM, you climb the 1st third in darkness by headlamp.
There are a few bolts where you can wrap your rope around between the guide and client but very few places for placing any protection and the time to do it. A few fixed ropes help in steep areas.
The first ascent of the Matterhorn was on July 14, 1865 a team of seven that summitted but a fatal slip descending took four of them 1000 metre plunge down the north face to their deaths. There is a piece of the original rope and some shoes, water flask and gear that was recovered form this accident in the museum. It was Mountaineering’s first major public tragedy.
Packed my gear in my pack and prepared for the Matterhorn, back up the trail I go to the Hornli Hutte and my guide would meet me there later in the day. Johann arrived later in the day and we went over my gear and decided that we’d leave at 4:00AM for the summit. It was still iffy but worth trying at least since the weather was looking good. Dinner and off to the bunks, no sleep at all, I did close my eyes and try. The other 2 groups were leaving at 3:30 so we shouldn’t have a backup at the start. Breakfast of bread & jam with luke warm coffee and off we went. The start is pretty easy going and it’s just the route finding that makes it difficult but I had gone up earlier and checked it out..
We were moving at a steady pace short roped and I was feeling tired but excited too. Finally to be on the Matterhorn!!! We caught up to both groups ahead of us, so we were doing pretty well, then we had to wait for one of the groups was unguided and were way off course…they were dropping boulders and dirt down on us and we had to hug a wall until my guide could direct them down to a safer chute. Early season like now is tougher because there are no tracks and the dirt and rocks aren’t packed down yet from other climbers. So it’s a lot of loose rubble dropping constantly on you and around you. Every step was sending piles of rock and debris down the face.
We had to cross a couple snow/ ice fields on some pretty steep areas but the snow was soft enough so we could kick step our way across. I can honestly say that the whole climb that I did is definitely a “no fall” zone! Very few places where Johann could place the rope around rock, or in cracks between us for any kind of protection. A few bolts(3) were on real sketchy areas, they were just tall bolts so he could wrap the rope around between us.
As the sun rose we finally stopped for a water snack break….I was tired but still doing okay. Pierre’s group was staying near us and Johann was helping direct them on the route. At the lower Mosley slabs Johann stated that he didn’t think we’d make it up and down in time before the afternoon storm hit. The last few days at 3:30 a nasty thunder lightning storm brewed up and that’s not what you wanted while on the climb. (It’s similar to Mt Washington in the storms surround it).
So close...that's the summit up above me..
He felt bad but we knew going into this climb that it was sketchy still and more time consuming than later on in the season. I was disappointed but okay with my guides decision, I was paying him to get me down safely! We climbed up to around the Solvay Hut 4003m and headed down…
The down climb was scary crap! You had to face out and drop down on small loose footholds. Every time I looked at the choices, right left or straight down..Yohann would say down. I told him that I should just assume that I should take the worst looking way every time and that would be right…he chuckled! He also laughed a few times when my short legs wouldn’t make the steps down…a couple more stuck boot spots and he
was having way too much fun at my expense..
This picture shows you go up and over all those rocks..balance Johann kept saying to me...
Finally we were down and I was thankful for having the opportunity to attempt such a climb but still wishing I was up there going for it!! Next time earlier start and a little later season and I know I can make this climb! The guides have to get you down safely without taking chances…I understand that, but I think we could have made it. Of course that was the one day that no storm came in…damn!!! The other teams also turned around, so at least it wasn’t just me…
At the Hornli hutte, the hut master offered me a ride down to Zermatt in the supply helicopter as he was going down himself and there was room if I would like. Sweet! I got a free helicopter ride over Zermatt and the peaks! Not a bad way to finish my climb.
After arriving in Zermatt I decided to visit the Matterhorn Museum and graveyard to pay my respects to the ones who had not made it down safely…..
I will definitely return and hopefully with what I know now, will summit and get to enjoy the views form the top!!
Will post a short Tr with other hikes in Zermatt & area
Link to complete Matterhorn pics:
http://picasaweb.google.com/hikerdd13/ZermattSwitzerlandMatterhornClimb?feat=directlink
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