100 Mile Wilderness Backpacking?

[jessbee]

My dad mentioned that he'd be interested in hiking this last section of the AT in the next year or two (and I'd be invited, duh). I've never planned such a long backpacking trip--10 days, I'd imagine--and I'm not finding a whole lot on the web, save for a few lousy trip reports.

Has anyone done this trip, and if so what are some trip planning tips you've got to share? What's the trail like? How's the weather in summer? We probably won't try it til next summer or the summer after, but I'm psyched to finally go on a long trip with my dad and I want to make sure this happens.

I guess my major concern is how to carry 10 days worth of food!?

 

[sapblatt]

Jess-

I believe there is a road that accesses a portion of the trail and a lot of folks cache food there so they do not have to carry 10 days - from the little backpacking experience I have I think 7 days tends to be near the max of what you cann comfortably carry...poisonivy is an excellent source of info for your questions...I believe the terrain is a lot of ups and downs - smaller mountains, but lots of them...

 

[dvbl]

Maybe send Papa Bear a PM, or google him to find his website. A few years ago I read his 100 Mile Wilderness report (with photos)...awesome quality, entertainment and detail.

 

[TDawg]

I think Jo-Mary Rd. cuts it roughly in half, when I was 16 we did the 2nd half from Jo-Mary to the Golden Road. This half was mostly by lakes (Jo-Mary, Rainbow, Nahmacantah (sp?)) and rivers unlike (from what I've heard) the 1st half which involves more climbing, like over White Cap.

The 2nd half was beautiful and had a few climbs, Nesnebunt Mtn.(sp?) was one I remembered was a little steep but had a nice view. I was 16 at the time so the logistics were handled by my dad. But I can tell you that you should plan to spend a night at Antlers Tentsite, gorgeous. Also I believe K1 Road goes in around Gulf Hagas so you could maybe store food here, not sure how far along this point is in the 100.

 

[poison ivy]

The 100-Mile Wilderness is great... though I wouldn't suggest hiking it in a hurricane. I didn't have much for views on my trip but it was still great hiking anyway.

You probably won't need 10 days for the hike... especially if you end on Abol Bridge before hiking up Katahdin. The southern half is a lot of ups and downs over small mountains but the northern half is fairly flat (winding past lots of lakes.) I'm a pretty slow hiker and it took me seven days... I think most people would likely hike it faster than that.

We cached food halfway (in bear canisters) on Jo-Mary Road, which is pretty close to the halfway point. I think I carried five days of food at most.

If you only have one car, I would also highly recommend taking a float plane ride from Millinocket to the start of the hike. We paid about $85 per person, which was not all that much more than paying for a car shuttle from the Shaws, to fly from a lake near Abol Bridge (which I can't spell off the top of my head) to Spectacle Pond in Monson to start the trip. It was a good decision for us because it really was the only view we had for most of the trip.

Not sure my trailjournal has the kind of info you're looking for... (just another lousy trip report probably) but here's a link to the first day.... http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=115153

Also here are some pictures: http://ivy.phanfare.com/album/172054#imageID=10073465

- Ivy

 

[Papa Bear]

Maybe send Papa Bear a PM, or google him to find his website. A few years ago I read his 100 Mile Wilderness report (with photos)...awesome quality, entertainment and detail.

Here I am.

Rambler and I did it together in 2004. We then stayed in Baxter for a few more days and met up with Funky Freddie and his friend Josef and did lots of Baxter peaks. All in all, a great time.

Here's the report: 2004 100MW + K + B report.

We stayed at Shaw's in Monson and had the pleasure of meeting old Keith, now gone.

It's true you don't need 10 days. We took about 8, including an overnight at White House Landing (an old hunting camp now serving back-packers). Not sure they are still there but it was a great decision and we sent a mail drop there as well. Also including getting stranded by a flooded stream and assorted backtracking that that involved. It's all in the report. Enjoy.

Email me if you want any details not in the report.

 

[peakbagger]

Take a look at whiteblaze.net and search for variants of 100 mile wilderness. or ALDHA.org There is a least one person who does mail drops at the trail crossing near gulf hagas which is roughly half way.

One thing to keep in mind is that its probably easier to hike north to south then south to north as the first few days south of Abol is fairly flat and fast hiking, its a good way to get in shape as once you hit WhiteCap, the last few days have lots of elevations changes. Of course going from south to north you get the classic views of approaching Katahdin despite getting the worse elevation changes right off quick.

There is a lot to be said for splitting it up into two sections but obviously the logistics get a bit more difficult.

 

[Peaks]

In addition to Whiteblaze.net, there are plenty of AT thru-hiker journals posted at trailjournals. com.

The Maine AT guide is a good reference book. It includes estimated hiking time (days) for each section.

Resupply options:

1. Carry everything (no resupply)
2. Cashe as a road crossing
3. Whitehouse Landing.

 

[poison ivy]

I just wanted to note that Whitehouse Landing doesn't take mail drops anymore. I think they have some supplies in their camp store but I've heard its fairly limited.

- Ivy

 

[Mad Townie]

Jessbee, a few years ago I did it with a friend and 3 kids, ages 11, 12 and 14. The part from Monson to Abol Bridge took us 11 days, including one zero, and we could easily have come out on Day 10. We did small days for the most part, especially in the first 40 miles of hills. The kids did a 14 mile day in the 60 mile flat portion with no trouble at all. Some friends met us on the Jo Mary Road with resupply food--and things like orange juice, milk and cookies!

So depending on how serious a hiker your dad is, I would think that 7 days or so should be quite doable for two adults. AT through hikers do it in much less, of course.

 

[onestep]

Depending on how much time you have before your hike to prepare, you could easily do 2 food drops along the 100 mile wildness.

Rt 15 to the Katahdin Iron Works Rd = 29.9 miles.
K.I road to the Jo-Mary Road = 28.8 miles
Jo-Mary Road to Abol Bridge = 40.9 "flat" miles.

Both the K.I. & Jo-Mary roads are accessible from Rt 11 between Milo & Millinocket.
I've used the Shaws for car shuttles in the past. Great folks!

 

[hikethe115]

my 2 cents

Everyone has given you great advice. I'll just add my 2 cents worth. You can definitely do it in less than 10 days. The first 14 miles or so are not bad, then the next few miles until you get to White Cap are more difficult. It's not just the ups and downs, but it is also the roots, rocks and mud. After White Cap it is definitely much easier. I wasn't rushing through when I did it and took one "nero" (short miles) into Whitehouse Landing. It is true that they do not take mail drops any more. They have some resupply items. I would say it is enough to get you to Abol Bridge. You can get a pizza and take what is leftover for lunch the next day. It is a very pretty setting and I recommend staying there. On the boat ride back we saw a moose. You can read my trail journal:

http://trailjournals.com/mm
http://trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=204613

It's not an extensive report, just some basic info and ramblings. The 2nd link is where the 100 mile wilderness section starts. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

 

[Snowflea]

What everyone else said.

Also... the side trip to Gulf Hagas is highly recommended, especially on a hot day!

Plan to camp at Jo-Mary Lake. It was one of my favorites on the entire AT.

Finally, it's not really "wilderness" in the western sense, what with all the logging roads and fellow hikers, but is a beautiful, rewarding, classic trip nonetheless.

 

[jessbee]

Thanks for all the advice, I have quite a bit of planning to do. I've read through some of the links posted here and I'll get to the rest when I get a chance...looking very interesting.

Do I need to get permits in advance for this sort of thing? How easy would it be to add Katahdin to the end of the trip?

I certainly won't expect a western-style wilderness trip, but I think it will have plenty of unique rewards. It will be nice to trek through New England again. I'm getting spoiled by all these snow-capped volcanoes anyways.

 

[poison ivy]

Do I need to get permits in advance for this sort of thing? How easy would it be to add Katahdin to the end of the trip?

No permits.... just pack up and go. Adding Katahdin will add another day or two to your trek. As someone who has hiked through the 100-Mile Wilderness, you can stay at the Birches lean-to, which is reserved for thru-hikers. If it's the height of AT thru-hiker season, you might want to consider planning things out to reserve a campsite at Katahdin Stream Campground... which is about five miles away from the summit of Katahdin.

It's a little more challenging dealing with car spots going in/out of Baxter State Park but it's not a huge deal.

- Ivy

 

[Stan]

I've not hiked the entire 100 Mile Wilderness but have scouted parts of it, including various access points, for the purpose of an eventual hike. There are so many logging roads that cross or come near the AT that it is possible to cache food to resupply no more than every two days. You would need high clearance and 4 wheel drive on some of these roads.

The AT Trail Guide to Maine and the Delorme Maine Atlas are two of the most useful references. In addition, askus3 has some good reports which you may find by searching this site.

My idea of this hike is to eat very well and linger at will at certain places. Thus, a frequent resupply makes gourmet meals, fresh fruit, wine etc. possible throughout the trip. There are some places where submerging a watertight container in a stream would give you access to refrigeration of sorts ... not a freezer of course but I wouldn't be surprised if some of those Dartmouth hiking mafia types could cache ice cream along the way, too ...

This was a trip I put on my list of things to do when I retire ... so now I'm beginning to take the planning of a luxurious 100 mile stroll more seriously.