100 mile wilderness questions

[mrsmileyns]

Hi there,

I am planning a trip for next year to hike the 100 mile wilderness in Maine from Monson to Abol Bridge then to the summit of Katahdin. I have scoped this trip out and have a pretty good idea of the logistics and what not. I was planning on taking off 2 weeks from work and I would have the weekends in the beginning, middle, and end so a total of 16 days which should be more than enough. I will be doing this solo - I don't really have any hiking partners.

So, my question(s) are - overall is this a good trip for September, next year. It looks great to me. But, I have read that there are other AT sections that are much nicer etc...i.e from Gorham NH to the southern section of the AT in Maine. I am just not certain if I can work out the logistics for that route.

I suppose everything I am talking about is subjective but I was wondering if anyone could give any insight on what I am talking about. Basically looking for a 1-2 week backpack in the NE area I can work out as a solo hiker safely. The 100 mile wilderness seems like a great time...but if there are other options I am open.

 

[peakbagger]

Its great area, there are some stretches with views and some stretches in the woods. The Barren Chairback range is decidedly rocky with few switchbacks but MATC has done extensive stone work. Most folks want to do it south to north but there is a lot to be said for north to south as the first couple of day south of Abol bridge are nice relatively flat days which are good to get back into shape. Once you hit Whitecap, you will have had a few easy days and from there it gets more rugged. You will also encounter more thru hikers along the way going south. There are a few folks who do resupplies in the area roughly half way in, you send them a box and agree on a day you want to pick it up. I havent used the services but many folks have with few issues. There are several people who do shuttles based out of Monson, they can help you out getting a car spotted. AMC also has a facility within a few miles of the trail (actually on an old route of the AT), you may be able to do a resupply there and spend a night with warm bed and shower.

It is not a "wilderness", the area is crisscrossed by logging roads with more than a bit of traffic. The area attracts a lot of of backpackers due to its name and location, its a lot busier than you would expect although by September the youth groups and summer camps will have cleared out for the season. Bring a tent, shelter space is not guaranteed and some thru hikers tend to be running minimal gear and "expect" shelter space. In general tenting at a shelter site is the way to go.

If you want more solitude the areas south of Monson to Bigelow has less traffic and just as interesting terrain (you do miss out on the Mt Katahdin views). Western Me also doesnt get a lot of traffic except thru hikers. Unfortunately there are no easy stretches to get started on in Western Maine until you get to Height of Land (Rt 17). West of RT 17 most days consists of steep ascents and descents up and down over mountains. The stretch from RT 17 to Rt 4 is relatively flat with a couple of nice ponds but it does get a lot of college orientation hikes. The stretch from RT 4 east over the Saddlebacks, Spaulding, Sugaloaf Crockers and the Biglelows is hard to beat for spectacular fall hiking. Its get some traffic but its worth it. Either direction would work but I would suggest starting at Caratunk and doing the Arnold Ponds for two days to get in shape for the the higher summits if you are going south. If you have the time the stretch from Monson to Caratunk has some nice territory to add on. The tough part if resupply and shuttles, some of the Monson folks head over there but you pay for it as they are doing a lot of driving.

It does typically start to get cold in late September and on occasion the summits might get dusted, so bring your fall backpacking gear knowing that some days, you may have too much gear.

 

[mrsmileyns]

thanks a lot for this info - yeah, all of the hikes sound nice, but as you said, the 100 mile wilderness is attractive due to the ability to work out some of the logistics - I already found someone in Monson where I can leave my car and he will meet me halfway through the hike with my second half of supplies, then meet me in Baxter after Katahdin to return me to my car - I know there are several folks in Monson that will do this for a very reasonable fee. So that is nice. I also liked the idea of doing it south to north so the trip would sort of end with a bang at Katahdin. Due to life circumstances I don't forsee being able to thru hike any time soon but to come into Baxter and up Katahdin like a nobo thruhiker sounds nice to me.

I just wanted to put this out there to see if there were other options that might be "better" Again, subjective.

Its great area, there are some stretches with views and some stretches in the woods. The Barren Chairback range is decidedly rocky with few switchbacks but MATC has done extensive stone work. Most folks want to do it south to north but there is a lot to be said for north to south as the first couple of day south of Abol bridge are nice relatively flat days which are good to get back into shape. Once you hit Whitecap, you will have had a few easy days and from there it gets more rugged. You will also encounter more thru hikers along the way going south. There are a few folks who do resupplies in the area roughly half way in, you send them a box and agree on a day you want to pick it up. I havent used the services but many folks have with few issues. There are several people who do shuttles based out of Monson, they can help you out getting a car spotted. AMC also has a facility within a few miles of the trail (actually on an old route of the AT), you may be able to do a resupply there and spend a night with warm bed and shower.

It is not a "wilderness", the area is crisscrossed by logging roads with more than a bit of traffic. The area attracts a lot of of backpackers due to its name and location, its a lot busier than you would expect although by September the youth groups and summer camps will have cleared out for the season. Bring a tent, shelter space is not guaranteed and some thru hikers tend to be running minimal gear and "expect" shelter space. In general tenting at a shelter site is the way to go.

If you want more solitude the areas south of Monson to Bigelow has less traffic and just as interesting terrain (you do miss out on the Mt Katahdin views). Western Me also doesnt get a lot of traffic except thru hikers. Unfortunately there are no easy stretches to get started on in Western Maine until you get to Height of Land (Rt 17). West of RT 17 most days consists of steep ascents and descents up and down over mountains. The stretch from RT 17 to Rt 4 is relatively flat with a couple of nice ponds but it does get a lot of college orientation hikes. The stretch from RT 4 east over the Saddlebacks, Spaulding, Sugaloaf Crockers and the Biglelows is hard to beat for spectacular fall hiking. Its get some traffic but its worth it. Either direction would work but I would suggest starting at Caratunk and doing the Arnold Ponds for two days to get in shape for the the higher summits if you are going south. If you have the time the stretch from Monson to Caratunk has some nice territory to add on. The tough part if resupply and shuttles, some of the Monson folks head over there but you pay for it as they are doing a lot of driving.

It does typically start to get cold in late September and on occasion the summits might get dusted, so bring your fall backpacking gear knowing that some days, you may have too much gear.

 

[TJ aka Teej]

Starting at Caratunk is a great suggestion.

You get a warm-up hike, then a night or zero and resupply in Monson. September is a fine time to be on the AT in Maine. And, once you get to Bacter you can stay at the Birches with the other long distance hikers. Don't focus on the 'solo' part of your hike too much, you'll be sharing the trail with plenty of finishing thrus and even some southbound flippers. Do you have much hiking or backing experience?

 

[mrsmileyns]

thanks - yeah i was not so focused on solo in the sense of doing it alone - just in the sense of solo in terms of logistics, staging cars and what not - i actually hope to meet some nice folks along the way. as far as my experience level goes i basically hiked here and there when on vacation in the mountains for about 11 years - so, i did some good hiking in really nice areas just not so often - in the past 2.5 years i have avidly taken up the activity - hiking and backpacking in the cats and other parts of ny, the whites, the daks this coming weekend - so i would consider myself intermediate at this point i suppose - i have done the devil's path and escarpment trail in the cats as 3 day trips and several overnighters in harriman in ny as well - an overnighter coming up in the daks next week - i'm always looking for new hikes, to see new places, and new challenges

 

[tomcat32]

Out of Monson you hit the Barren Chairback Range which is a solid climb to reach elevation. The ledges on Barren are nice and there are few other spots with views along the range. Not too long after Chairback you start into the White Cap Range. White Cap has awesome views and Katahdin seems to be right there some 25-30 miles away. Outside of those two ranges a lot of the trail travels low forests with lots of roots and not abundant views. There are numerous fords although by September they typically aren't too deep unless it is particularly wet year. Ending with Katahdin speaks for itself. Expect cool nights with temps in the 20s not out of the question. And most of all no bugs to speak of in September. It is a worthwhile hike, especially if you never have been to the area and a grand way to climb Katahdin if you never been.
You will be in the apex of thruhiker season so chances are good you will not have the designated campsites and shelters to yourself but there are many opportunies for good camping spots away from the Barren Chairback and WhiteCap ranges.
As far as hiking long distances It depends what you are looking for. For scenery there are more scenic area than the 100 mile. For two weeks of isolation I recommend the Cohos trail. It piggy backs WMNF trails in the beginning but the Northern part is untouched practically. It is 162 Miles, easily done in 2 weeks. Takes in 4 4000 footers several other 100 highest and 52 WAV peaks. Lots of wildlife particularly in the north.
In Maine a traverse of the Mahoosics is more rugged than 100 mile. You could hike from Gorham to the Bigelows in that 2 weeks period and take hit some amazing scenery not limited to Mahoosics, Baldpates, Saddleback, and Bigelows to name a few.
If you are set on AT, Gorham south hits some of the best terrain on all the AT.
In VT the Northern half or the Long Trail might be an option.
All good options, and many others in Northeast out there, it just depends what you are seeking on your 2 weeks.

 

[DSettahr]

thanks - yeah i was not so focused on solo in the sense of doing it alone - just in the sense of solo in terms of logistics, staging cars and what not - i actually hope to meet some nice folks along the way. as far as my experience level goes i basically hiked here and there when on vacation in the mountains for about 11 years - so, i did some good hiking in really nice areas just not so often - in the past 2.5 years i have avidly taken up the activity - hiking and backpacking in the cats and other parts of ny, the whites, the daks this coming weekend - so i would consider myself intermediate at this point i suppose - i have done the devil's path and escarpment trail in the cats as 3 day trips and several overnighters in harriman in ny as well - an overnighter coming up in the daks next week - i'm always looking for new hikes, to see new places, and new challenges

Like peakbagger stated, don't expect a true wilderness, at least not in the same sense as what you've experienced in designated wilderness areas in in the Adirondacks, Catskills, and White Mountains. The area surrounding the 100 mile wilderness is pretty actively managed for timber production, and you will see evidence of this. The AT runs along a corridor that has been set aside from harvesting to protect the natural character of the trail, though.

 

[mrsmileyns]

maybe i'll take off 3 months and do all of these suggestions

the cohos trail looks very, very interesting

don't you love it when there is no wrong decision - no matter what i do, it will be good

 

[Stan]

Some years ago I determined (by scouting) that it would be feasible to cache supplies two days hike apart on the 100 mile wilderness through the network of logging roads but some of those roads come and go as logging operations dictate and I do believe AMC either gated or closed some of the roads on land they acquired. Though it makes sense to do it southbound, I've been driven the other way as my desire to go to Baxter Park exceeds my desire to go to Monson ... purely a motivational factor of course.

 

[mrsmileyns]

that is kind of the way I feel - doing this hike knowing that you are hiking to Baxter and Katahdin just seems like more fun and motivational that starting at a highlight and hiking to a town - nothing against Monson of course

Some years ago I determined (by scouting) that it would be feasible to cache supplies two days hike apart on the 100 mile wilderness through the network of logging roads but some of those roads come and go as logging operations dictate and I do believe AMC either gated or closed some of the roads on land they acquired. Though it makes sense to do it southbound, I've been driven the other way as my desire to go to Baxter Park exceeds my desire to go to Monson ... purely a motivational factor of course.