6 Days: Grafton Loop & Mahoosucs

[MichaelJ]

6 Days: Grafton Loop & Mahoosucs
July 18-23, 2009
MichaelJ, Una_dogger, and Terra

Day 1: Grafton Notch to West Baldpate Shelter, 2 miles, 2 hours, 1095'
Saturday dawned with mixed weather in the forecast. It wasn't a particularly nice morning, but that was okay, as we expected to hit the trail around dinnertime. We took care of last-minute house issues and packing, then hopped on the road.

After a few hours of driving we met up with Mark (Silverfox) who followed us up to help with the car spot (Thank you!!!). We aimed for the Wright Trail, and after only one wrong turn found it. Turn right immediately after the two steel bridges. It looks like a driveway, but it's a road. We left my car, and he drove us past a very tempting pie stand to the AT crossing in Grafton Notch to begin our adventure.

The first leg of our hike would be short, just from the Notch up two miles on the AT to West Baldpate Shelter. With our heavy packs (46lbs for me, 44lbs for Sabrina), we didn't move very quickly, arriving at camp at 7pm. I used the opportunity to practice setting up my Siltarp, we had dinner, and fell asleep around dark.

Day 2: West Baldpate Shelter to Stewart Campsite, 14.2 miles, 12 hours, 3658'

We got a somewhat lazy start on Sunday morning, getting on the trail at 8:30. It was a very slow ascent for us up West Baldpate with our still-very-heavy packs. There was one other hiker on the trail, someone out for the first time in 12 years. The sky was blue, sunny and full of friendly, puffy clouds. The ledges of East Baldpate looked fantastic, rising up from the puncheons crossing the alpine meadow in the col.

Ascending the ledges, I thought back to the last time I was here in 2004, and it had rained and was fogged in. It was much nicer today, as well as a lot less scary having full traction on the rock. Every step higher exposed more distant and more beautiful views. Two hours from leaving camp we were on the summit, and after finding a sheltered spot out of the cold wind, we took a half hour to just soak in the view and have some snacks.

The east half of the Grafton Loop begins right on top of the summit, and immediately drops into lovely evergreen forest, the ground covered with a dense, richly green moss into which the trail has worn a soft, springy brown path. The descent off East Baldpate is steep, and the trail winds around as it makes its way down. As soon as we hit more moderate grades we found ourselves surrounded by by enormous ferns and plentiful piles of moose poop.

Around two miles further we came across East Baldpate Campsite and stopped to top off our water, since we only had what we'd started with the previous day. This was a very nice-looking campsite, with a beautiful little gorge for a water source, but be warned that the privy has no doors or walls or seat. Once we'd filtered ourselves a full supply of water we stepped back on the trail and made our first crossing of Wight Brook.

We soon rose back up in elevation to cross over the flower-covered top of Lightning Ledge Knob then out onto Lightning Ledge itself, whose rock faces gave us terrific views forward to Long and Puzzle Mountains, which looked so far away and yet were on the day's itinerary. We crossed Wight Brook several more times, passing the Lane and Knoll campsites. We did not visit any of them, as time was slipping by, and at times the trail got very dark and gloomy down in the brook ravine which really sapped our energy.

After passing Knoll Campsite the trail finally rose back up, taking a very short detour on an old road and crossing a log bridge before continuing to slowly ascend. At 4pm we passed Town Corner Campsite, still 5.5 miles from our destination and plenty sore and tired. Once we passed the town line, the trail deteriorated significantly. It was steep, had poor footing, and gave a general sense of being poorly designed, as well as Long Mountain being extremely uninteresting. Sabrina expressed an intense feeling of dissatisfaction as we passed the summit sign, which wasn't even on the top.

Coming down the far side of Puzzle Mountain the trail followed the edges of several clearcuts. Unfortunately, this was when I ran out of water, and we had to cross our fingers that the small rivulet I filtered from wasn't full of pesticides. This was again an uninteresting stretch of trail, but at least we were up on the hillside getting the late-day sunshine. As we dropped further the footing got terrible, alternating rocks with roots and mud. The trail took a short hop on a fairly nice woods rood, then dipped down to cross Chase Hill Brook. The crossing wasn't a problem, but there are only a few stepping stones, otherwise the brook is fairly deep and swift-moving. The other side had more lousy footing until it started to finally climb up the side of Puzzle Mountain.

At this point we were starting to feel very frustrated that we hadn't found the campsite yet. We found no humor in the existence of a set of three stone steps in the middle of nowhere on a moderate grade that didn't need any, nor in the rapidly-setting sun. We climbed higher and higher up the switchbacks, and began to wonder if we had gone past the campsite. Finally, just as we were debating the merits of breaking the rules and slapping a tent down at the next bit of flat ground, we arrived at the sign for Stewart Campsite. This was not a very nice place - the tent pads are not actually raised earth, one has a large, eroded rut running through it, and the other has such overgrown surroundings I couldn't even find it until the morning. The only place we could set up our tent was in the large cooking clearing, which is directly under a huge widowmaker and directly downhill from the privy, whose door had fallen off. Finally the sign for "water" was at a tiny rivulet of icky water, and it again wasn't until the next morning that I discovered a blue-blazed trail continued past that location and down to a rocky ravine flush with clear, tannin-free, delicious water. Overall, the campsite is in desperate need of maintenance: it feels like it was created and then abandoned. It needs a map posted as a sign showing where the water and campsites are (I never found two of the supposed four of them), and the water trail should not be blazed exactly the same blue as the main trail. We quickly made camp as the sun had already set, inhaled our dinners, and fell asleep.

 

[MichaelJ]

6 Days: Grafton Loop and Mahoosucs, part 2

Day 3: Stewart Campsite to Sargent Brook Campsite, 10.9 miles, 8-1/2 hours, 3324'

It was difficult to wake up and get going. After breakfast, filtering water, and breaking camp, we finally stepped on the trail around 10am. The woods on the flank of Puzzle Mountain were tall and open, a beautiful walk. The trail had once again taken on a feeling of being well-designed and laid out, the footing was excellent, and the sun shining onto extensive reaches of huge ferns put smiles on our faces. It took only a half-hour to pop out onto the ledges, and they were magnificent. All across the top are ledges facing different directions, and then the descent along the west side of the mountain goes from ledge to ledge, all beautiful. While we were unimpressed with the Loop trail between Baldpate and Puzzle, we felt that Puzzle as a day hike is certainly a worthy destination in its own right. We would see only four people that day, the first of which were two guys on top of Puzzle who were starting the loop there with their dog, going the opposite way from us.

The most interesting moment for us, however, was when we got buzzed by a pair of what we believe were F-15's, heading north over the mountains. The second plane dipped a wing after it passed. They let off quite a sound which perceptibly trailed behind them, and continued straight forward; we didn't see or hear them again.

After taking in our final views across to Sunday River, we followed the trail down off the final ledge into pleasant woods full of sunlit saplings. The trail followed a small brook from which we filtered excellent, tasty water. As the trail approached the bottom, it suddenly turned north and started going directly across the terrain. I thought I could see property bounds in the woods, and a glance at the map afterward confirmed my suspicions: the trail takes a detour to avoid private property. It was somewhat demoralizing, as each step north on the trail would be another step back south on the road walk. In an ideal world, the trail could be a mile shorter and come out by the start of the western branch. Oh, well.

Just before the parking lot we encountered the only other people of the day, two women starting the Loop, also in the opposite direction from us. We didn't see any of those four people again, nor would we in fact see anyone until Speck Pond Campsite over a day later. The 0.6 mile road walk between the east and west trailheads was hot and dusty, but at least there was a broad shoulder in which to get away from traffic. At the trailhead, we turned onto the edge of a farm field, then onto an old road. Following the signs, we went over a suspension bridge crossing the Bear River, which must be very unnerving on a snowmobile in the middle of winter, which is its primary purpose. We followed the road south to just about the point when we started to wonder if we'd missed a turn, and then finally there was the trail sign, bringing us west and back north following a lush, richly green ravine of a bubbling brook.

Unfortunately, at this point I was really lacking in energy and spirit, and struggled the entire way up Bald Mountain, which felt misnamed as no part of it was open! It was a broad peak, though, and once we had earned the elevation it was fairly mellow and a lot cooler than it had been in the valley. It never really felt like we summitted, but instead skirted the high point. We passed a beautiful moose wallow, unexpected up there, then came across to Stowe Mountain where a few brief open ledges gave great views to Sunday River and the Mahoosucs. Then it was back down into open woods for a long stretch of follow-the-countour through some of the richest collections of the largest ferns I've ever seen. We finally came to Sargent Brook Tentsite around 6:30, and it was a great place to stay. Real raised-earth beds built up with stone retaining walls, a wonderful cooking area with a huge, flattened half tree trunk as a table plus a bear box, and a fine privy. The water source wasn't far and provided well. We enjoyed having a few extra moments in the evening to relax before bed, despite the fact the blackflies and mosquitoes were so bad we needed full coverage; I even had to wear my bug net!

Day 4: Sargent Brook Campsite to Speck Pond Shelter, 8.7 miles, 7 hours, 2973'

The next day, whatever day of the week that was, by this point there wasn't really a concept of weekdays anymore, we got back on the trail and the first destination was Sunday River Whitecap. This was one of the best summits either of us has ever been on, and one of the finest alpine environments as well. The trail builders went to great lengths to protect the area, even building puncheons over the grasses and flora. The summit is open in all directions, and gives spectacular views of Sunday River, the Mahoosucs, Grafton Notch, and our previous days' hikes. There were high clouds and a forecast for scattered showers, and this was only our first peak of the morning, so we wasted no time in starting our descent.

Here the trail could use a bit more work - it's been victimized by all the rain this season and has some badly eroded sections already. As we entered the glowing green of the expansive vegetation of Miles Notch, we felt the first raindrops. On went the pack covers and hats as we continued up Slide Mountain, which despite looking terribly steep and tall from the Notch was actually a very civilized ascent. Once over Slide, we started weaving up through evergreen forest on the shoulder of Old Speck. We could tell this is serious moose country - the poop, the marks on the trees, the obvious bedding areas, and the overwhelming "zoo" smell were all strong hints.

The rain started to get serious as we made the steeper pitches up Old Speck. There are plenty of false summit feelings, but in the thicker alpine softwoods and the fog it was hard to tell where we really were until suddenly we popped out on top. It was cold, windy, and raining, so after a nod to the mist-enshrouded tower we started down toward the AT and Speck Pond. The descent was miserable - the trail covers a lot of open, smooth ledge and boulder which were all incredibly slippery with the rain. We made it down but only very, very slowly and with great caution and expense of energy.

We got to Speck Pond Campsite and took an available tent platform. Sabrina set up the tent while I grabbed water, then I set up my tarp over the rest of the platform. She snugged up in the tent to cook and have her dinner, while I chose to have mine down in the lean-to where I could stretch out and also hang a bit with some other folks. Thanks go out to Dave and his daughter Alicia (Grumble and Bee, or is it Be, or B?) for gifting me with a packet of Arizona Iced Tea mix, which would be my nectar on the last day of our hike. We also met an AMC group trip of younger kids (7th-9th grade?) who had been out a week on the AT and had a week more until they finished up at Pinkham. They were an incredibly-organized, very well-behaved group who appeared to be really enjoying an amazing experience together. Kudos to them and their leaders. I stayed out a little too late and Sabrina came to fetch me, oops, sorry about that. It would rain again throughout the night but we stayed warm and dry. Well, mostly dry, the tent fly wasn't cinched down far enough on one corner. Oh, well, no worries, only one more night to go.

 

[MichaelJ]

6 Days: Grafton Loop and Mahoosucs, part 3

Day 5: Speck Pond Shelter to Full Goose Shelter, 5.1 miles, 9 hours, 1706'

The next day began with fog, and plenty of it. But it was just fog, and it was being blown about by the wind enough to give that "it's going to break up and clear" feeling. We began with the short, steep climb to the ledges and meadows of Mahoosuc Arm. Everyone focuses on the steep section heading into the Notch, but the top of the Arm is quite beautiful. While we didn't have much for views, the fog lent a wonderful moor sense to the experience, and made for a very nice walk.

Then began our trip down the Arm into the Notch. This was steep and very difficult. The trail was at times a stream, and mostly sections of smooth rock that when wet was too slippery to navigate. We were forced to follow many detours as well as use roots and handholds on the edges of the trail, regrettably contributing to the trail's deterioration. The MATC really needs to get in there and add some steps or rungs in various locations because otherwise the conditions are just going to get worse: uglier and more eroded until the "trail" is a huge swath of bare rock down the mountain.

As we dropped from Notch 2 into the bottom of Mahoosuc Notch proper, we realized we were out of the fog and could see that the clouds had lifted somewhat over us, and cleared beyond the mountain range. This worked out well, actually, as it dried off the ground but didn't cook us with sunlight. We took a quick lunch break at a wide spot on the trail just prior to beginning the boulder scrambles to ensure we had all the strength we would need.

And so it began, our traverse of the mile of Mahoosuc Notch. Somehow, it had gotten a lot harder since I'd last done it (with a full pack, too) in 2003. I think the rocks had a lot more moss and were much more slippery this time due to the wet spring and summer. On the other hand, there were several boulder caves which now have developed paths over/around them as alternatives. The Notch could really use a reblazing, actually, as some of these paths don't actually go anywhere, and some of them are definitely better choices than following the big white arrow and crawling on your hands and feet. We did what we could, including helping Terra along. This was not her first time in the Notch, but was only a puppy the previous time and needed some assistance through a few tricky spots. While normally she has the advantage with her 4pd (four-paw drive), in the Notch what are easy steps for humans are unmanageable for a canine. We were following the AMC group and had almost caught up to them, but didn't realize it until our own shout out of "There's still more???" was answered by a voice from ahead: "Yes, there's more!" After a physically-challenging three hours and forty-five minutes we emerged at the junction with the Notch Trail, and started up Fulling Mill Mountain.

The climb out starts steep and rough, but the tradeoff is quickly attaining elevation. Partway up the trail conditions improve immensely, and it becomes still steep, but a good treadway with ladders in a few spots. Despite being out of water at this point and very sore and tired, we just kept moving as the trail wrapped around the main peak of Fulling Mill and then came out through the alpine meadow and onto the ledges of the south peak. We were just under the clouds, the higher summits of Goose Eye, the Arm and Old Speck all enshrouded, but the distant terrain away from the mountains was bathed in late-day sunshine. These would be our last views for this trip, but they were good ones, and were a good inspiration for the final push to Full Goose Shelter, where we set up on a nice platform and enjoyed a very mellow evening surrounded by other campers. It's a really nice spot.

Day 6: Full Goose Shelter to car, 7.5 miles, 7 hours, 1215' to Goose Eye plus ~300'

We woke late and took our time, since our only destination today was the car. The sky was grey, and we could see through the trees that the higher elevations were in fog. I was bummed because I'd been on Goose Eye twice in beautiful conditions and now Sabrina wouldn't be able to experience that. My rage against the skies went unheeded, however, and as we hiked we were once again passing through the grey mist with limited visibility. We wasted no time climbing North Goose Eye and then dropping down to the mud and puncheons. Again, some trail work is needed here as some puncheons are gone and bypasses are getting cut through the alpine vegetation. We walked through the mud where we could, but some patches were at least a foot deep and not traverseable.

We passed the north branch of the Wright Trail. I was surprised that its sign is still just a piece of paper in a clear plastic sleeve, despite the trail having been open for many years and having real wooden signs down at the bottom. On East Goose Eye we took a quick snack break in the fog. It was a "dry fog" by which I mean it didn't make the rocks or ground surface wet despite limiting our visibility. After descending and continuing on we passed the junction with the south branch of the Wright Trail, whose paper sign was missing, the plastic sleeve shredded by the elements. Fortunately, having been there before I knew that was our trail down. Just moments later the ascent started, and Sabrina dropped pack for the final push. I was too lazy and kept mine on. We climbed quickly, passed the AT onto the Goose Eye Trail, and there in grey it was: the summit of West Goose Eye. #99/100 for Sabrina, my third visit. After a quick set of photos, we turned back down, passing the AMC group for the last time as they made their slackpack peakbag, and headed for the Wright Trail.

This was a really, really nice trail. It dropped steeply, feeling much like the Grafton Loop off East Baldpate did: a springy footpath through moss and open woods. Then it came back out on ledges several times, all very beautiful alpine environments that we would love to see again in good weather. There were some steep spots, and one eroded section, but overall it was a very lovely descent (with tiny ascents to more ledges) all the way down to the junction with the other branch of the trail, which involves crossing Goose Eye Brook right at its fork with another brook and could easily be dangerous or impossible at high water; however, it's a terrific spot for a designated campsite.

Finally, we just set ourselves on autopilot for the very easy but long (2.3 miles) walk out from there. It was very muddy in spots, but a trail crew was actively out working on the situation. We thanked them for their efforts and kept going. The trail eventually opens up onto various old woods roads, but is extremely well-blazed and is pretty much always following the brook. When we came out at the trailhead we saw that the south branch was actually posted as being closed for trail work by the Maine Conservation Corps. I don't know how long it will be posted, but we didn't feel bad since it wasn't posted up top and where we saw them working was the unbranched portion of the trail.

We were at the car! 5 nights, 53.5 miles, a total ascent of around 14,271'. Just down Bull Run Road from the trailhead is a designated picnic area, with parking and easy access to swimming in the river. We took the opportunity to freeze in the water but at least feel rinsed off, then headed to BBQ Bob's in Bethel to fill ourselves with oh-so-delicious meat. Just as we ordered, the rain came pouring down hard. We were grateful for the timing and the food, and after the drive, showers, ibuprofen, and a real bed. It was great to get out, but great to be back home, too.

We definitely recommend the west Grafton Loop. The trail was terrific, the campsite really nice, and Sunday River Whitecap just a stellar peak. The Mahoosucs, well, they're the Mahoosucs and they're rough, tough, and awesome. As for Goose Eye, well, we're just going to have to go back in clear visibility someday. Despite moments in this trip which were physically or mentally challenging, we overall had a great vacation!!!

Photos are at http://www.saletnik.org/gallery2/v/hiking/me/grafton-2009/

 

[hikes-with-him]

WICKED nice trip!!!

Hey, how far is it from Lightening ledge knob to the actual lightening ledge? We made it as far as the knob...then turned around (we'd about had it for the day and had a long trip back to the car...and we knew that there were showers coming...of which we got stuck in a wicked one on the way between West and East baldpate)...so...how close did we come?

 

[MichaelJ]

Thanks!

According to the times on my photos, it took us just under 15 minutes with our full packs on to get from the knob to the ledge itself.

 

[hikes-with-him]

ARRRGHHH!!! So close!! We just had little day packs...sniff, sniff...

 

[pilgrim]

Instead of working, I've been doing a little research on the Grafton Loop today, after reading about it in a recent issue of Backpacker magazine. Thanks to your well-written trip report, my research is now done.

Back to work...

 

[mookie]

nice one guys (and canine)!

 

[TrishandAlex]

Nice trip! It's great you two (three) got out there for a few days.

Edit: unadogger's right, poor choice of words. I meant 6 days, not a few. As I wrote below, I'm jealous! Would love to get out there and do the same.

 

[una_dogger]

I still crack up when I see pictures of myself with that gynormous backpack!

What a GREAT trip, challenging conditions --hot and humid weather, wet and slippery trails, and a really boring ten mile stretch on our longest day...but...some of the MOST beautiful alpine zones ever...the rain has forced every little thing to grow, grow, grow...

It's great you two (three) got out there for a few days.

It was special, and more than a few days, thankfully!!! Great ~week out in the woods with my "family" and two favorite friends...an annual week long backpack, for me, is essential for well being, a few days would be a tease!

 

[DrJJFate]

Excellent trip report and photos. Sounds like a rewarding journey.

 

[Kevin Judy and Emma]

Dreamin'

I've been dreamin' of a trip like this for years! Glad you guys got to do it. Too bad about being fogged in on Goose Eye. Would love to go back with ya' on a nice clear day this fall!

KDT

 

[Silverfox]

Thanks for posting this great trip report and photos..some real interesting views and diverese terrain..Baldpates shots particularly nice..though it looks like Long Mt was Sabrina's favorite

Happy to play a small part in this great adventure..I sure did stop and get a blueberry pie coming down 26 and stopped for some excellent pulled pork at the orange trailer..I was so pleased that you could not see inside the trailer but the food is excellent . I am sure it was even better after the hike!

 

[Trainwreck]

Beautifu pictures!
I loved the smiles on Terras' face!

 

[TrishandAlex]

It was special, and more than a few days, thankfully!!! Great ~week out in the woods with my "family" and two favorite friends...an annual week long backpack, for me, is essential for well being, a few days would be a tease!

I'm jealous. We are not yet at the stage where I can easily leave both kids so my husband and I can get out there for 6 days. And the girls aren't BOTH big enough (and willing...at least our youngest one isn't...yet?) for us all to go together.

I would LOVE to do what you three did! Kudos.

 

[una_dogger]

More pics:

http://unadoggerspictures1.shutterfly.com/827


Best Comment:
MichaelJ "I wish this wasn't our last night out"

Worst Comment
MichaelJ "This will NOT bring us closer together" <<Laughing>>

Best Summit
Sunday River Whitecap

Most Underrated Summit
West Knob, Stowe Mntn

Wierdest thing
Finding a moose skull in your campsite

Even wierder
having passed a pile of moose bones minus skull two miles earlier

Best camp food
Backpackers Pantry Blueberry Cheesecake

Worst Moments
all minutes beyond first five spent in Mahoosuc Notch

Most unexpected moment
fighter jet flyover on Puzzle

Most exhilarating Moment
Seeing the long end of day light shining on the Mahoosucs from Fulling Mill Mnt, a very special moment that brought tears of joy and accomplishement to my eyes!

A great trip, with great friends.. a total of eight feet in our group on the trail...four biped, four canine....doesn't get much better than this..

 

[timmus]

Good job to both of you !!

5 days, 40-something pounds on the back, 53 miles... WOW !!

I have an upcoming TR that has same stats, weird coincidence...

Hey, what is #100 ? And when ?

 

[Darl58]

Great Tr and pictures!!

Looks like a really fun way to spend time on the trail with the family!!

 

[una_dogger]

Good job to both of you !!


Hey, what is #100 ? And when ?

Thanks, Julie!
Final peak is COP Snow, not sure when but most likely when things dry up a bit....

 

[audrey]

Wow, Terra, you are awesome! Oh yes, your human companions are pretty terrific too.