A week at Baxter State Park – September 13-19, 2008 - PART TWO

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sapblatt

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Day Four – Pogy Pond to Russell Pond – Caverly Lookout, Grand Falls, Turner Deadwater

Everyone who assured me that I would see tons of moose on this trip I have to say I managed to spend a week at Baxter and I did not see one. On this morning, I heard a bunch of crashing about in the woods, but never saw a moose. Of course, Larry, Eric and Paul saw the moose ( a cow) and her young calf on the trail and got some nice pics. I made my way back to Russell Pond quickly and harvested a half quart of blueberries on the way – I needed something to liven up the next morning’s oatmeal! I checked in with the ranger and settled in at our lean to - # 5 on the far, more remote side of the pond – a great spot! The guys arrived soon after and I had my lunch and decided I wanted to hike more, while Paul wanted to explore near the pond, Eric rented a canoe and Larry went through the area with his fly rod. I headed out around the pond for the Lookout Ledges and then did the entire 7-8 mile Grand Falls Loop. This was a great way to spend an afternoon. The Lookout was a great view to the northeast as well as south to the Turners. Bell Pond was very pretty and I managed to get a shot of a turtle and a lone Canada Jay. Grand Falls were spectacular – the pictures do them no justice at all – a large rocky gorge where the trail follows the gorge from high above – beautiful. After the falls and Inscription Rock the trail was very overgrown and wild, but in true BSP style it was still quite easy to follow.

That evening based on Larry’s report Eric, Paul and I checked out the Turner Deadwater, which was only about a 10 minute walk from our lean to. I really liked it there, in fact I liked it so much that I went back again after dinner just to take more pictures in the dusk light. That evening around the fire I read a copy of Marty’s eulogy for our friend Ray Loring who died on Peak Above the Nubble a couple of weeks ago. It was a nice way for four hikers to remember the good times we had with Ray. Marty did a great job on writing this – I am sure it was a difficult thing to do.

PICTURES - http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8CauGbVozaKKI4

Day Five – Russell Pond to Chimney Pond – Wassataquoik Stream Trail, Sandy Ledge

We knew the terrain would not be that tough, but that this would be a long slog out from Russell Pond. We got an early start and many people had told us that the Wassataquoik Stream Trail was a nicer route out than the Russell Pond Trail so we went that way. The crossing was not a problem – but it is one you want to take your boots off for – the water was about knee deep and my best guess is that it was about 32.1 degrees!! After crossing the trail it got pretty wild – lots of minor ups and downs – very nice, but not all that fast. We eventually got to the Russell Pond Trail and then headed down by scenic Whidden Pond with its great views into the Great and North Basins. Rols wanted to get to our resupply at Roaring Brook and Larry, Eric and I headed to Sandy Stream as a short detour on the way to resupply.

We spent about an hour at car shuffling gear and figuring out how little we could get away with for our trek to Chimney Pond that afternoon. I was able to go from my Go Lite Odyssey (5500 cu) to my Go Lite Jam II (just over 3000 cu) – but I knew I was going light and it was going to be cold. After we finished lunch we were on our way. Sherpa told us this trail was great – in fact it is better than great. Nice views, incredibly graded and an insane level of trail work. It makes Edmand’s Path look rough! Basin Pond is a very nice spot with great views – we stopped for a bit and continued up. Chimney Pond is another spot where words and pictures do little justice to the scenic beauty that is found there.

PICTURES - http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8CauGbVozaKKKw

Day Six – Kathadin via Saddle Trail, Hamlin Ridge Trail

A fairly cool night, with some rain and wind during the overnight. We woke up around 6 AM (or I should say, we finally realized we had been awake for hours and we should not get our lazy a**es out of our sleeping bags) and noticed it was quite cold and very windy. Just after 7 AM we checked the weather report and found that it was the first class II day of the week. We took that information and our lack of experience at Baxter into account and decided for the mellower approach to Kathadin via the Saddle Trail. Our original plan was to go up Dudley and across the Knife’s Edge – that will have to wait for the next time.

We got on the Saddle Trail a little after 8 AM – I was marveling at how little distance it is from Chimney Pond to the summit – it may be steep, but at least it is not a ten mile approach! We made our way up the trail under sunny skies and moderate wind – layers were adjusted almost constantly on this day. The views on this trail change and improve about every five feet up – it is really amazing. It is the easiest approach to Kathadin from Chimney Pond, but it is not that easy – it is pretty steep in spots an has a lot rock scrambling and a slide to contend with – we loved it! Before you know it you are at the Saddle on the Tableland and are looking at a very easy mile to the summit – nice grade and outstanding trail work. We soon found ourselves on a very windy summit – we guessed that the steady wind was over 30 mph and gusts were in the 40s and 50s – this wind was very capable of moving me! We took some pictures, tried to be friendly to three AT finishers (who were pretty nasty) and ducked into a sheltered spot for a break before heading back down. We layered up again and were on our way. Larry and I were having very cold finger issues – mine were so bad for awhile, even with gloves that I was thinking about descending via the Saddle ASAP. But they improved and we evaluated the skies and how we felt and decided to go for Hamlin and the descent via the Hamlin Ridge. I am very glad we did this – it was the toughest 2 miles of trail we contended with all week, but it was so worth it. For a couple of hours (at least at our pace) you have constant above tree line views into two cirques – the North Basin and the Great Basin – you just do not know where to look – it is incredible. The trail is very well marked, but it is really not a trail, but rather a route over rock. It beat all of us up a bit, and I would do it again tomorrow!

We got back to Chimney Pond around 4 PM and had dinner and layered up – we knew there was going to be a frost and it would be a cold night.

PICTURES http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8CauGbVozaKKMo

Day Seven – Hike out from Chimney Pond

Night time temperatures reached down to 22 degrees. I am pretty confident in saying that none of us wanted to leave, but knowing it was our final day and we had a long ride ahead of us we headed out early. We all skipped breakfast and were hiking by 6:45 AM and reached the car at Roaring Brook before 8:30 AM. We picked up our other vehicle and made it to a shower (once a week is good I think), lunch at the AT Café in Millinocket (great place) and the long ride home.

I had a great time with three of my friends in a truly special place. I already have the books and maps out and am starting to plan next year – those trails way to the north are calling me!

We all have a year to come up with some new jokes!

PICTURES - http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8CauGbVozaKKOg
 
OMG Mike! I just got through the mountain of amazing pix! What a time!! I am so glad you had good times up there. I really felt I was there with your narrative and the chronology of your pix. :cool:

I will have to do what I can to hook up with you four studs during part of next year's trip! I've got Coe, S. Brother and Fort on my 100 still. Will try to coordinate this with you! We have a long time to figure this out.

I also want to hear from Larry about the fishing :)

Best regards,
Marty
 
Very nice! I always love that place, can't get enough of it. We're going next month, I hope we'll see some foliage then.
 
Mike did an incredible job of planning this trip. Our route could not have been better. Every detail was thought out including where to get showers before heading home (my wife is very thankful to you for this). Thanks Mike for all of your planning. You did a great job!!!!

Baxter is an incredible place and we were blessed with great weather. Baxter and Hamilin are wonderful peaks. I was blessed to be sharing Baxter with three of the best companions that one could have on a trail (thanks for all of the laughs0. It was a trip to be remembered.
 
What a great trip- the planning of the route by Sapblatt was great and I recommend to those going that they think about hitting the remote areas as well as the peaks!

Mike has nailed the report and pix, as usual, but since I have the technology if interested my pix (too many) and videos here http://tuco.smugmug.com/Backpacking Trips

and a long trip report here- http://tucohiking.com/id18.html Part 1 and http://tucohiking.com/id19.html Part 2.

BSP is a great place- and that Hamlin Ridge trail- WOW.
 
I just spent 2 weeks in Maine including several days in Baxter. I saw moose tracks and moose poop but no actual moose. Before the trip, I told my boyfriend you will see lots of moose on this trip.....
 
Read part one and two and I gotta agree that this is an excellent report and pics! IMO there is no better way to see Baxter than devote a whole week to it. A few years ago I did a week long loop in the park also staying at Pogy Pond (one of my favorite!) and Little Wassataquoik. Although I did see a few moose at Russell Pond, including getting woken up by a mom and it's calf splashing near my leanto.
So... maybe next time? ;)
 
Awe-some.
:)

Baxter truly is "the place" and I love reading everyone's stories about the park's impact on them.
 
Thanks Mike! Your trip report and pics just made my day.
We head to Baxter in 9 days. I can't wait!!!!!
 
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