Aconcagua Trip Reports - Frodo, Arm and mountaingirl

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sli74

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I just got off the phone with Frodo and he sounded in high spirits and his usual self. As Darren reported from info he received from Frodo’s wife, they did indeed get a day ahead of schedule. The initial plan was to take the normal 3 days to hike the 22 miles to base camp but they really picked up the pace and made the trek to base camp in 2 days getting to Plaza Argentina on Friday instead of Saturday. They took their rest day on Saturday. Plaza Argentina is at 13,800’ and unfortunately moutaingirl is experiencing some altitude related acclimation issues. The quick ascent to Base Camp might have made acclimation more difficult for her. The base camp is luckily well populated with a doctor on site.

Frodo said the doctor is worried about her and she has been resting since they arrived. Frodo and Arm have made their first trek with gear to Camp 1, which is at 16,400’ and made it safely back to base camp yesterday, which was still a day ahead of schedule. They opted to take an extra rest day today to allow mountaingirl to acclimate better putting them back on their original schedule. They hope she will feel better tomorrow and be able to join them as they head back to Camp 1. If she does not, they plan to leave her to rest at Base Camp. He said it was a safe place for her to be as the doctor was on site there. Frodo and Arm will continue as per plan and expect the worst case scenario to be that she will join them at Camp 1 a day later. They will be leaving for Camp 1 tomorrow, hopefully with mountaingirl.

He said he was jealous that winter seems to have finally arrived in the Whites now that he is down in Argentina trekking for the time being at least over lots of dry and exposed rock surfaces. He will be trying to send updates every 3 days or so. I will keep you posted. The satellite phone cut out before I could get any further information so stay tuned for the next report.

sli74
 
Three days ago Frodo, Arm and mountaingirl all left base camp for the trek to Camp 1. Along the way, moutaingirl turned around and headed back down the mountain. The winds were howling and I didn’t catch all of what Frodo said to me but I gathered that she descended below basecamp, I am guessing back to Mendoza. I assume the altitude sickness caught up with her.

They waited for her at Camp 1 but she never made it up there. Arm and Frodo spent the next 2 days attempting to wait out the storm they were caught in at Camp 1. This was above 15,000’ and he said they spent 50 hours huddled in the tent with winds whipping above 80 mph and the wind chills below minus 40. None of the people at Camp 1 made any attempts for the summit. All decided to descend to base camp today.

I could barely hear him since the winds were still raging up there. They weren’t off the mountain yet but plan on hoofing it out tomorrow, back to Mendoza for a little R&R. He said they had a GREAT time and the country is GORGEOUS and even though the summit attempt was unsuccessful, they are having fun and will update everyone on the details when they return.

He said some other stuff I couldn’t hear very well but I expect he will call from Mendoza or update us when they return.

He did say that at Camp 1, when he and Arm were out of the tent, it almost blew away and was hanging on by ONE anchor as he chased it down and tackled it. Sounds like quite the ADVENTURE. Glad they are all safe and sound.


sli74
 
When that kind of hiker/climber turns around without "making it" to the summit, you KNOW the conditions are fierce! Happy to hear they are OK and having a great time. Thanks for the reports, Seema!
 
Now that they are finished, I will chime in. I have many friends in Argentina and Chile who know about that mountain. My brother was going to climb too, but opted out after talking with them. Seems to many folks down there it has a bad karma about it. I am glad they survived. :eek:
 
If I am not mistaken, can't you drive up a good part of that mountain? I have a friend that was living there and I believe he did just that???
 
Gotta be rough to turnaround after all that prep,anticipation and expense.
Good decisions save lives. We'll welcome them back with real snow and the type of winds they've become accustomed to. They'll feel right at home.
 
Thanks for the update.

I'm sorry to hear that they didn't get to summit, but glad they are ok and having a good time.
 
Most important, everyone is safe.

This is a trip I dropped out of in January for medical reasons. I was VERY disappointed and I felt that I let the team down for not being able to be there. The team went from 4 to 3 which does not leave much room for changes. Ultimately, you have to remember the mountain will always be there for another day and Frodo reiterated that when I made the choice to drop. Frodo, Arm and mountaingirl will always have another chance, just as I will. The team made the correct choice – they have my respect.
 
So sorry to hear that Arm,Frodo & Mountaingirl did not
get the chance to summit, but I'm sure that they will
have alot of wonderful stories to share with us.
I'm glad they are all ok. Can't wait to see some pics.
Thanks Seema!!!!!
 
I just got back into town and caught up on messages. I am reminded of one of my favorite quotes of all time.

"It is not the critic who counts, not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly...who knows the great enthusiasms, the great devotions, who spends himself in a worthy cause, who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who have never known neither victory nor defeat."

Teddy Roosevelt

To my friends "in the arena", I salute your great efforts and can only wish I had the courage for such a mighty endeavor. I'm glad you've made your way back to the relative safety below the heavens.
 
Hola everyone!

Thanks for all of the well wishes!

Just got back home yesterday afternoon after spending 31 hours traveling with Arm via taxi's, our own 2 legs, a 7 hour bus ride from Mendoza, Argentina to Santiago, Chile, and 2 flights, which was an adventure in it's self! :eek: My butt is still sore, and that had nothing to do with the intense customs search from going into Chile from Argentina which makes the US to Canada (and vise versa) customs search seem quite lax…

Anyway, we had a blast regardless of not being able to make the summit (which is just the icing on the cake ;) ). We ended up backpacking 56 miles over hot desert, thru incredible mountain valleys (Vacas and Relinchos), wading across cold river crossings with sharp rocks (ouch!), hiking over moraine (dead glacier), up and down steep scree fields (which were brutal!), and thru drifted snow and high winds at 16,400’. We pretty much got to cover all conditions, and though there were no bugs :) , we did encounter a few decaying puma killed llamas carcass’s :eek:

We also got to catch some of the Saturday night life in Mendoza (which goes on well into Sunday). Interesting place… BTW, you don’t want to wash car windows for a peso at a busy intersection unless you want to have a few policia show up with shot guns and haul you off in handcuffs… I wonder what they do if you litter???? :eek:

We will post some pictures within a day or two...

Overall it was quite the adventure, and 2 weeks that I will remember for the rest of my life…

Till the next one… :)
 
Welcome home you guys.
Can't wait to hear all about your trip in person instead of over a phone with 80mph howling winds in the background.
The summit is the icing and someday I just know you will get that as well.

sli74
 
Welcome back ya'll! Sounds like quite an adventure. Cant wait to see the pics :)
 
Welcome back! Sounds like the adventure was as much about getting out of Argentina as it was the climb! Glad you're all safe and sound, and I hope you get a chance to return and summit one day.
 
Welcome back! We missed you...What a great adventure, glad you had a fun time and are back safe & sound. ;)
 
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