Alaska in February

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ROCKYSUMMIT

New member
Joined
Feb 1, 2005
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337
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Location
NJ.& DLWR.CNTY. NY
Wow, what a cool trip! First, thanks to everyone here that had given me info a few weeks back. Took the family to Fairbanks for my son's (TundraTony) wedding, sightseeing and such. Checked out Chena Hot springs area, couple days around Denali NP and everywhere in between. Big beautiful state with lots of wildlife. Saw moose, caribou, wolves, with only sleeping grizzlies and cautious wolves avoiding our cameras. Definately need to get back in summer with a lot more than one week to spend! Here are some pics I took. http://good-times.webshots.com/album/557744979EmFIgJ
 
The Denali sunrise was really cool. It was our second trip from Fairbanks, and after the somewhat cloudy first day with no sign of the mountain, we were rewarded almost immediately with that view. Couldn't wait to get down there closer to the park. Gotta get back in summer and take the 90mile shuttle bus into Wonder Lake for some hiking and photo taking.
 
Tony, Nice pictures of the Denali sunrise, mountains, and the big antler crew. I have never even thought of travelling to Alaska in the winter. It's nice to see that it is possible to drive around as much as you were able. Were the snow depths in the valleys normal, or was this winter a bit below average on snowfall?
 
Hey thanks Mark. The hiking I did was in the Fairbanks area that is super cold, doesn't get any wind, and minimal snowfall. Depths were about knee high. Denali area is another story. Can be 30 degrees warmer or more, with open tundra, lots of wind with a bit more snow. The worst road conditions were in the city of Fairbanks. I don't think they plow, but drop gravel every night. During the day as heat from car travel, (traffic?) exhaust and hot engines, especially at stops and intersections, the roads become iced up again. They never melt but seem to accumulate more ice. I thought from driving in snow here in NY that I was a pro, but it definately takes a couple days to get used to the road conditions there. It is different... I was very surprised at the driving conditions on the roads north of Fairbanks and towards Denali. Most days the roads were mostly clear. Also, the few roads they have are in wide flat valleys without twisting winding hills. My daytrips past the park entrance were about 370 miles round trip with little trouble. They do sometimes get foggy ice over night that coats trees, roads, mountains, everything(you can see it in one of the photos). Very pretty, but made for about 75 miles of totally covered roadways toward Denali. Again though, very straight and flat driving at speeds of 50mph. I was also surprised that when I stopped to take pics, a car almost always passed by. I know this is the only road to Anchorage but didn't think anyone used it in winter. I saw only two accidents while I was there. One at an intersection in Fairbanks, the other a flipped tracktor trailer avoiding a moose. Maybe I was lucky, but I wouldn't hesitate to return and drive there in winter.
 
Wonder lake is a nice area to basecamp but it is a campsite nonetheless. If you really want to get off the beaten path, look into the backcountry pass system they have there. They break up the park into quadrants and you can dayhike anywhere, you can only camp in a quadrant you have a BC pass for. This reduces the impact and crowds in the park and you are really pretty much guaranteed a very very nice stay in the backcountry. There are no trails but the typical scrubby herdpaths apply. There are areas that are off limits due to bear activity but they are somewhat posted and the ranger station you get your passes from will have the updated maps. Bear canister rental is free too, they have the black garcia kinds the last time I was there.

It is a pretty good system although you can only reserve the passes I think 2 weeks in advance so you have to be flexible in your plans.... Usual backcountry skills apply, but really, you have the option to get as far or as close to the road that you are comfortable with and in general, the park road goes somewhat east-west through the park.

Jay
 
Thanks Jay for the info. I did speak to some park rangers and got a map and some guide books with tons of information. I didn't really get an answer on how to identify your location or quadrant for camping. I hope to get back and find out!
 
Nice TR and pictures. That is some beautiful looking country. I would like to get up there in the next couple of years.
 
Rocky, check the Denali park website, specifically the backcountry permits section which includes a backcountry unit map. (Don't skip the other info in the backcountry section, lots of practical stuff on permits, river crossings, bear safety, etc.)

You can't guarantee a particular BU in advance of your trip, you have to show up at the gate on the day your trip begins and see what's available.

The park understandably isn't too encouraging about winter camping, but it's possible.
 
ROCKYSUMMIT said:
Hey thanks Mark. The hiking I did was in the Fairbanks area that is super cold, doesn't get any wind, and minimal snowfall. Depths were about knee high. Denali area is another story. Can be 30 degrees warmer or more, with open tundra, lots of wind with a bit more snow. The worst road conditions were in the city of Fairbanks. I don't think they plow, but drop gravel every night. During the day as heat from car travel, (traffic?) exhaust and hot engines, especially at stops and intersections, the roads become iced up again. They never melt but seem to accumulate more ice. I thought from driving in snow here in NY that I was a pro, but it definately takes a couple days to get used to the road conditions there. It is different... I was very surprised at the driving conditions on the roads north of Fairbanks and towards Denali. Most days the roads were mostly clear. Also, the few roads they have are in wide flat valleys without twisting winding hills. My daytrips past the park entrance were about 370 miles round trip with little trouble. They do sometimes get foggy ice over night that coats trees, roads, mountains, everything(you can see it in one of the photos). Very pretty, but made for about 75 miles of totally covered roadways toward Denali. Again though, very straight and flat driving at speeds of 50mph. I was also surprised that when I stopped to take pics, a car almost always passed by. I know this is the only road to Anchorage but didn't think anyone used it in winter. I saw only two accidents while I was there. One at an intersection in Fairbanks, the other a flipped tracktor trailer avoiding a moose. Maybe I was lucky, but I wouldn't hesitate to return and drive there in winter.

they plow in Fairbanks ... but you're right about the gravel/sand that they throw on the roadways. our rock salt/sand mix won't work there because the salt doesn't work at the typical F'banks winter temps. F'banks is also in a "bowl" so the air doesn't mix much and you get all that ice fog (when the temps are really cold). Also another reason why the city is one of the highest in the country for air pollution ... all those exhaust fumes just hang in the city. It's pretty cool to drive up on top of Chena Dome and look out over the ice fog sea below you! The city buses used to be free in the winter to help cut back on the air pollution, but I'm not sure if they still are or not.

Looks like it was 'warm' while you were there! When I visited in January a few years ago, it was -25 when I stepped off the plane, and then -42 the next two days. My son and I went out on his trap line in -20 weather, and checked his beaver traps at -30 ... now that was an experience, trying to dig out the trap from under the ice, with the ice refreezing almost as quickly as you chopped it up!

Glad you had a good time!!
 
I hope you got to check out the museum at the University in Fairbanks, they have an incrediable display on the Northern Lights, as well as a wonderful and informative display on Native Culture and Clothing. Glad you had a good trip! Oh, were the ice sculptures out? They were truely amazing when I went ot Fairbanks a few February's ago...
 
Hey guys, gotta love that -52 weather! We were pretty lucky with temps the first few days reaching upper teens to -5 at nite. The last couple days were low single digits to about 15 below, nothing too crazy. I was dissappointed that we didn't get to the museum, I know you and others said not to miss it. We had only 8 days, 2 traveling, 1 wedding, 1 rehearsal, and other family get togethers that we managed to sqeeze in. Hard to keep so many people happy in such a short time. Next time I plan to spend about 3 weeks in summer, and not let anyone know I'm up there till after the first 2-1/2 weeks are through! Yeah, we did have a really great time.
 
Ahh, summer in Alaska... The first thing I had to do was put blackout lining on my bedroom drapes, because you never wanted to go to bed!!

The population triples in the summer too, as do the RV's on the road. :)

If I keep reading about Alaska I may just have to pack up and move back!! ;)

Forgot to mention, congrats on the nuptiuals!

Don't put off going back, too many people do, and never get there... :(
 
Fred Meyers! Not sure where else this store is but I always think of Alaska when I see it... Not sure if I've ever seen it anywhere else on the west coast in my travels.

Next time I plan to spend about 3 weeks in summer, and not let anyone know I'm up there till after the first 2-1/2 weeks are through!

Good idea! :)

Jay
 
Hey Jay, I haven't been out west in about 20 years, but I never saw Fred Myer's out there either...Chinooktrail, why did you ever leave?! I was thinking of possibly retiring up there, when the time comes. It is pretty expensive living though. I guess 1 moose and 1 giant halibut in the freezer, and you're all set!
 
The same reason most people have to leave, family issues back here made us move back...
We couldn't GIVE salmon away up there! And yes, our freezer was always full of Halibut and Salmon and Trout!
Hum, time for a visit, it has been far too long... :(
 
Well, I probably shouldn't facilitate the "North to Alaska" impetus among my fellow emigres, given the tensions it raises, but I will anyway.

Live streaming broadcasts from the NPR stations are available at KSKA in Anchorage, KUAC in Squarebanks, and KTOO in Juneau. KSKA recently absorbed Alaska Public Radio Network, which produces the morning and evening news broadcasts used across the state. Follow links from the KSKA site for archived broadcasts and program schedules. APRN also produces the excellent program "AK," for which podcasts are available at AK.

The AK DOT and the FAA maintain an amazing array of webcams around the state. A little googling will reward you with the gems. In the summer, the NPS has one aimed at Denali near Wonder Lake.

The Anchorage Daily News is available free online at ADN. The Fairbanks Daily News-Miner is at News-Miner.

If you haven't been, go. If you're there, stay. If you left, well, you know what you want to do . . .
 
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Wow, Sardog lots of info. Thanks for sharing. Yeah, the family thing. I know what you mean. I have a large family here, it would be tough. We're curious where my son and daughter in-law are going to end up with her family up there. I think I already know the answer to that one.
 
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